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I would have checked the body grounds. There are two ground wires on the battery negative. The key to it all is that the fuel pump was still running which suggests that the ground for it was still ok. The problem with looking at car electrics with a multimeter is that the meters will read voltage present even though the
circuit has a very high resistance. It is probably better to use a "test lamp" like a tail light bulb to be sure
there is a low enough resistance for current to flow (and the bulb to light). I know of a case where the only ground path left on a manual shift car because of corrosion was from the engine block ground, through the transmission, through the CLUTCH CABLE, through the clutch pedal bearing and bracket to the body. As corrosion on the body ground got worse, the clutch cable carried so much current that it got hot enough to stick. (why did the clutch cable get stiff any very hard to push at NIGHT!) So many parts of modern cars are isolated by rubber mounts for noise and vibration that the entire engine, transmission and exhaust system may be grounded to the body ONLY through the
black ground wire bolted to the block and run right back to the battery . AS a test, I would have clamped one side of a jumper cable to the battery negative, the other to something like a strut mount bolt which I knew was in good contact with the body and watched for things to happen. (never, ever do that with the positive terminal which Toyota covers with a RED plastic shield.
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