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Anyone installed Dynamat recently

13K views 35 replies 11 participants last post by  mapirc 
#1 ·
I'm considering installing Dynamat in my Camry. I googled around, and it seems that it makes some different for some people, but not for others (these are not necessarily Camry owners). Has anyone here installed Dynamat in their Camry in the last few years?

What sort of difference did you notice?

How much did it cost you?

What sort of shop do I go to if I want to have it done?

Thanks!
 
#3 ·
You want to hear from @molson.david .
Thanks. :)
Bingley, if you are not satisfied with the level of the road noise you better start from the front doors. The 12-14 and the 2015 (not sure which one do you own) are pretty quiet car. Toyota used "quiet steel" for the fire wall and enough insulation for the floor, but in both cases they saved on door and roof sound insulation and while the roof is getting audible only when it's raining, most of the road noise coming through the doors.
I haven't used Dynamat in a while and switched to B-Quiet Ultimate 5-6 years back and would choose it again over Dynamat cuz BQ is thinner, lighter, more efficient and cheaper.
Also if you are on the budget and want to get the best possible result from invested $$$ and time you may want to take a look here:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...601-soundproofing-camry-lexus-conversion.html
 
#6 ·
+1 No shop would even touch your car for less than $120-150.
If you own a screw driver, scissors and a heat gun you can remove door panels yourself and do both doors in 3 hrs even if you are not DIY person.
 
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#9 ·
Dynamat type products applied to the interior floorpan and trunk will make a big difference in body vibration. So all those little constant quivers you feel now will be smoothed out and the car will have more of a tank like character to it, hence less fatiguing to drive long distances. Road noise will be moderately lower, but to quell it more you need sound absorbing material placed inside the doors. I put this fiberglass insulation http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/productImages/400/c3/c383b873-542a-4689-bb88-29037484ccef_400.jpg in zip lock bags I get at the dollar tree store and then glue the bags to the insides of the door panels using this extremely sticky, odorless and waterproof foam as a glue. http://greatstuff.dow.com/image/window_door_RT.png
 
#11 ·
Dynamat type products applied to the interior floorpan and trunk will make a big difference in body vibration. So all those little constant quivers you feel now will be smoothed out and the car will have more of a tank like character to it, hence less fatiguing to drive long distances. Road noise will be moderately lower, but to quell it more you need sound absorbing material placed inside the doors. I put this fiberglass insulation http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/productImages/400/c3/c383b873-542a-4689-bb88-29037484ccef_400.jpg in zip lock bags I get at the dollar tree store and then glue the bags to the insides of the door panels using this extremely sticky, odorless and waterproof foam as a glue. http://greatstuff.dow.com/image/window_door_RT.png
Blow in insulation and expending construction foam as sound deadener? :surprise:
I don't even know what say...
 
#10 ·
David, In the pictures of the door with the card off, there are 3 big holes in the inner panel including the one for the speaker. Have you ever tried sealing those individually with tub liner or some other barrier? Sure would be tempting to do that before proceeding with overall felt and liner. Comments?
 
#12 ·
No. As far as I can tell the felt and PVC liner curtain is more than sufficient enough to block the noise coming through these holes and I didn't want to cover them just in case if I need to get inside of the door (it happened to me on my older Camry), but I've seen them get covered with thin aluminum and steel sheets, just put sound deadener on top of these covers.
 
#19 ·
This butyl dampener is the only one that's 5-star rated by users and so cheap ($49.99 for a roll + free shipping) that it's currently sold out:
I got the ultra thick 100 mil version for $89.99 and it's still less expensive yet substantially thicker and heavier than Dynamat.
 
#21 ·
How much B-Quiet Ultimate do I need to do four doors? I see I could get 50 sq. ft or just 12 sq. ft. I'm moving across the country in a few weeks, so I'd rather not have a big roll left over "for another car!"

Also, molson.david, how did you attach the B-Quiet if you didn't stick/glue it on?
 
#22 ·
If you planning to do just doors and not doing 100% coverage 12 sq.ft. is more than enough for the front doors.
BQ is very similar to Dynamat and sticks to any surfaces very well, just make sure the surface is clean and oils free.
 
#23 ·
Alright, B-Quiet Ultimate ordered! I ended up getting the 50 sq. ft. in case I want to do the rest of the car. Or maybe I can sell the remainder to someone with a similar project.

I didn't get the Dynamat roller -- think it's necessary? I thought you just cut the material into the sizes you want and stick them inside the car door.

Soon I'll have the P7+ tires. With the B-Quiet, I'll convert my Camry into a Lexus, too!
 
#25 ·
Alright! I installed the B-Quiet! I did the four doors and the rear deck. I didn't do the fleece and the rubber liner like @molson.david -- perhaps a project for next time! I drove around in town, and it IS quieter. For some the improvement may be dramatic, but for me it feels incremental. It's worth the time and money to me.

The B-Quiet insulation material is a pain to work with. So sticky!!! I washed my hands with Goo Gone, and I can still see faint black lines in my hands, outlining my fingerprints. My nails look dirty underneath. How do you get rid of this stuff? HELP! My hands are gross!!!
 
#29 ·
#26 · (Edited)
A few tips from my project of installing B-Quiet:

1. The door panel removal wasn't hard at all. Just remember, sometimes you have to pull pretty hard to get the clips off. I found this video to help me remove the door -- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YLGD2l7GicM

2. Some instructions tell you use "Toyota Camry Door Panel Removal Tool." That's garbage. You just need a very thin plastic pry-bar with a fork. The brand name removal tool costs almost $20. The generic one -- just a piece of plastic -- costs a lot less. But I think you'll definitely need a pry bar.

3. The clips are prone to fall off. Check before putting the panel back together.

4. It's easier to use your sense of touch to position pieces of B-Quiet rather than using your sight. I know molson.david used relatively small pieces, but for the non-driver doors, I found it easier to use big pieces for the outer shell. Again, use your Jedi sense to position it! First feel the space with your hand, then cut a piece for that space. Then remember that feel, and gently ease the piece into place. Don't get frustrated or angry, for anger leads to hate, and hate leads to evil, and you'll go over to the dark side and buy a Honda...

5. Do one of the rear doors first. They're easier. When you have plenty of experience, THEN do the driver door. I started with the driver door...
 
#33 · (Edited)
#27 ·
My third post -- what's that plastic sheet in the door for? And what's that sticky black stuff? It feels a lot like the insulation material.

When putting the plastic sheet back, I am guessing I don't need to worry about a perfect seal -- a decent seal would be OK? Let me know if I need to take the car to a pro to get that fixed. I don't know where to get that sticky black stuff, or even what to call it!

MY CAR IS QUIETER!!! Thanks, everyone!
 
#30 ·
I started reading elsewhere on the internet. It seems that stuff like Dynamat or B-Quiet is a dampener -- it prevents the door from vibrating and creating more noise or reflecting noise. That will lead to a reduction in noise, but you need a layer of closed-cell foam and a mass-loaded (i.e., heavy) sheet to block the sound. I think that's why molson.david uses fleece + liner in his car. I found two products:

http://store.secondskinaudio.com/overkill/

http://store.secondskinaudio.com/luxury-liner/

Expensive for what they are...
 
#32 ·
I started reading elsewhere on the internet. It seems that stuff like Dynamat or B-Quiet is a dampener -- it prevents the door from vibrating and creating more noise or reflecting noise. That will lead to a reduction in noise, but you need a layer of closed-cell foam and a mass-loaded (i.e., heavy) sheet to block the sound. I think that's why molson.david uses fleece + liner in his car. I found two products:

http://store.secondskinaudio.com/overkill/

http://store.secondskinaudio.com/luxury-liner/

Expensive for what they are...
+1 fleece and shower liner are much cheaper, but as effective as those "high tech" stuff.
 
#35 ·
I did 90% of my 2010 corolla (doors, roof, trunk, floor) with dynamat and insulator. To be honest, it's just waste of money. If any, there is just tiny improvement and psychological aspect.

Yes the doors feel more solid when close, but road noise and wind noise is still there. You will start hearing wind noise through your glass windshield and windows when driving on freeway. You can't insulate the glasses.

Camry is just a camry. For more expensive cars like Lexus, they use better steel and thicker glasses. Some also use acoustic windows. The soundproof layer between two layers of glass is also better. The insulation around the door edge is better as well. The doors are thicker as well. The curve of the door also play significant role. It's the design. You can't change it. That's why Mercedes S class is so quiet (and expensive). All that hours and resources spending on perfecting soundproofing from the ground up.
 
#36 · (Edited)
Hi Folks,

I agree that it's appropriate to quantify the improvement in noise reduction. It's also hard to do: the reduction will depend on frequency, and on making a precise duplication of ambient noise to benchmark the reduction. My original intention was to drive the car in multiple opposing passes on the same stretch of moderately bumpy road, and at the same speed (noise almost invariably increases with increasing speed,) to standardize the excitation. My opinion now is to use a speaker instead to reproduce pink noise, placed at some fixed relative position to the car (most likely about 6' away from the side of the driver's side of the car, on the car's transverse axis,) in a quiet environment where the car is likewise fixed with respect to the environment. The measurement would be before/after spectral response with 1/3-octave smoothing using an ANSI-standard spectrum analyzer, at the average location of my ears, in the driver's seat. I'll probably use either no weighting or C-weighting, so I can also report single numbers for before/after SPL.

Short of this, sad to say, most of the subjective opinions being posted here are not of high confidence. That's not to impugn anyone's opinion, but it is an acknowledgement of the fact that acoustical perception is notoriously unreliable.

I already have the very high loss-factor butyl rubber sheet that I intend to apply to the entire inner door skin as the noise barrier. Judging by the sheet's very high creep and extreme deadness, I believe, but am not sure, that it is IIR, my favorite for this application. The only thing delaying me here is admittedly laziness: I've had this sheet for a long time, but haven't felt motivated enough to actually follow-through on this plan. Hopefully some self-imposed posting here will help me got off my duff...

Thanks,
Mark
 
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