I walked into Wally world to get oil for my annual change, because the 5-qt is usually cheaper there.
There on the top shelf was 0W20 Ultra. "Ultra performance; One Year protection; blah, blah." Just a mere $49.47!! Say what?
The synthetic we use is good for a year. What's the game they are playing? So if I drove 40,000 miles in a year on one oil change it wouldn't affect any manufacturers warranty? I would NOT want to test that.
At the same time, Pennzoil, Castrol, etc. are all down to a little over $22. None say Japanese cars though they are playing the high mileage, etc. bottles. Is anyone using these oils?
Didn't even get that far. I don't drive that much anyway. I just can't figure what poor slob will get sucked in. It did have ** after the One Year hoopla.
I just bought my Mobil 1. I really trust Castrol and may switch next time for $4 less.
I use the $17/jug SuperTech 5W-30 or 10W-30 in almost all my cars. $50 for a jug I can't even
I do stock up on Mobil1 or Pennzoil when they have those rebates that bring it down to like, $9/jug. Any full synthetic keeps my happy lol.
My first daily driver? '99 Cavalier, previous granny owner kept impeccable records from the dealer that implied that the oil hadn't been changed in 40k miles (or they didn't note the oil changes, but there was no service contract, she hoofed it there every time there was a problem). I changed it twice over the time I owned the car, every 10k miles...it's true what they say, most GM vehicles will run like crap longer than anything else will run at all...
EDIT: BTW, that crappy 2200 SFI engine didn't have one bit of sludge when I took the VC off to reseal it.
I heard Mobil did this in the 90s and people were buying it. Then the manufactures were seeing problems with motors. Mobil wouldn't take the blame so they dropped the oil line.
I was shopping for oil today too. I saw these bottles too. I didn't buy anything from Walmart since I personally rather fork extra 10 bucks and get much better oil at a part store which I ended up doing. I didn't go to the Walmart in town that sells K&N and Royal Purple. I can pick up the K&N OF for less than 6 bucks there.
i had a Mobil service station. Mobil did not drop the synthetic, they simply reworded the oil change intervals. it WAS 1 year or 25,000 miles.
Mobil reworded it to, "one year or 15,000 miles, which ever comes first"
we had gotten Mobil oil reps and memo's for us to tell Mobil 1 customers of the change. we lost no customers nor Mobil 1 oil changes. but then too, Mobil 1 WAS more expensive than dino, and it was really recommended for new cars, and at the time it was also recommended that it did not get put into cars with oil leaks. and it was recommended that customers do not switch back and forth from Mobil 1 to dino, back to Mobil 1.
i used Mobil 1, exclusively in my brand new pick up truck back then, and i did go nearly up to the 25,000 mile change. truck had about 100,000 miles when i traded it in, with no leaks or other problems.
the car makers were ticked off they were losing oil change customers, they found NO problems with this new fangled synthetic.
hell now, most dealerships HAVE Mobil 1 on the shelfs.....
Proven protection for 1 full year* *Or 20,000 miles, whichever comes first.
Introducing the once-a-year oil change. New Mobil 1 Annual Protection ultimate full synthetic motor oils feature breakthrough lubricant technology that provides protection for one year between oil changes or 20,000 miles, whichever comes first – guaranteed.†
I wasn't trying to start oil war.... Its just not everyone knows what REALLY goes into the car unless they actually watch them put in quart bottles. They can "claim" one product but behind the scenes someone cheaper is dumped in.
I have worked at 2 Toyota shops. One did use Toyota oil which we know is Mobil. Even in bulk tanks (rumor has it whatever the oil company tank had in the truck was what we were using that week. Could be Quaker State, Pennzoil, Peak, or even Service Pro crap.) Second shop used Peak on non-Toyota Care vehicles. Which is the same Peak 0w-20 that you can pick up for 3.00 bucks per quart. Sad thing; most customers weren't even aware that they were charged 6.00 per quart!
Now I work for Mopar shop. They use Mopar for 5w-30 or 5w-20 and Pennzoil for Ow-20, 0w-40, 0w-30. I'm not sure who makes Mopar oil?
Again; I've driven 147,000 already. So far I have used these oils nothing else. Mobil, Royal Purple, Amsoil, Enos. Amazingly RP gives the highest MPG, Mobil 2nd. Amsoil oil was burned through the worst even when I used 5k. Enos is currently in the car and I'm only lucky to have just under 29 MPG.
No tot go too much OT but what do you think of other Eneos fluids? Specifically, I was thinking of using their CVT fluid in my new Insight instead of the Honda stuff
60.00 bucks per 5000 miles for 115,000 miles total for just under $2000...
Or Just $10,000 for new engine block which doesn't include install or Techstream reprogramming....
Over lube motor is cheap insurance. I personally seen these 2ARs love burning oil so doing 10k LOFs is playing with fire IMO. The whole 2AZ oil consumption recall was mess which really made me feel this way.....
I don't think any modern cars can do this...since almost everything nowadays seems to burn ever so slight.
How they expect a yearly oil change? This will make people forget what is under their hood and run their engine dry since most engines do either leak or burn ever so little oil.
I saw this at walmart. It's insane. No thanks. I'll stick with M1 HM for about $30 bucks with OCI 3-5K.
I wonder have been studies done comparing this oil with other oils.
It's 1 year or 20k miles, whichever comes first. Innocent until proven guilty? I guess someone will have to run it for a year or 20k and see how the oil holds up. Still, that would be a lot of metal particles in the oil. Not sure I'd be ok with that.
….On smart phones, “Q&A” CAN NOW BE ACCESSED BY CLICKING ON THE 3 HORIZONTAL BARS IN THE UPPER LEFT HAND CORNER…..******..With so many different Blog readers coming here…
Why go through all the trouble if reinventing the wheel?...."Bob The Oil Guy" website has beaten this topic to death, probably hundreds of times. Have a look there.
I tried a lot of oils. I put up multiple pictures of what my engine looks like with out ever having been cleaned 17 years old first time valve cover has been off. Put up or shut up. LOL
I can find some seriously boring UOA for you to look at too I am sure of single digit wear numbers.
If you own a Toyota and maintain it M1 0W40 can be had for $20 to $25 at Walmart for a 5qt. jug. It performs almost as well as the most expensive Amsoil products like 5W30SS.
My 2003 Camry 2AZFE is 17 years old and every time I drive it I flirt with redline even on a 2 mile of shorter trip! Still no oil burning, no smoke at tail pipe, no consumption on dipstick over OCI, fantastic MPG, fantastic performance, no varnish, sludge,abnormal wear, no abnormal engine noise, perfect single digit wear numbers for the last 17 years on UOA, all gaskets original and not leaking until this last year when valve cover gasket started to weep a bit.
On the other hand the wifes 2007 Camry which belonged to my mom until about 1 year ago was ran on 5W30 Super Tech Synthetic it's entire life and has about the same mileage as my 2003 but has been driven gently. Mostly HWY miles. It is starting to get some oil consumption. I am not at all worried I will have it fixed up better than new here soon.
At the end of the day even a lack luster oil like Walmart Super Tech Synthetic 5W30 will keep a Toyota motoring along but will it keep it clean and prevent consumption? Not fix it but prevent it from happening. No off the shelf oil that can be bought by the consumer can undue build up in the rings and clean varnish or sludge out that takes either mechanical cleaning or smart chemistry.
Insanely expensive oils are not practical for regular use. Advanced chemistry(blending your own oil) is like wise not practical for the average person. We do not need ultimate wear protection in most applications today especialy in Toyota's not being used in racing, mining, heavy near limit towing, or war zone. Wear is not the biggest issue Toyota's face. Ring-Pack cleanliness is just as important today as wear protection as is oxidation resistance and low volatility.
The reason I do not recommend 0W30 is because it does not do anything that 0W40 does not do better.There is a reason why so many 400, 500, 600+ HP factory sports cars spec M10W40 as factory fill but none of them have specified a 0W30. In fact while it took GM 12 years to catch up to me I have been recommending M10W40 that long in LS all GM engines. Better late than never. The fuel economy part is "0W" part it will give you better fuel economy the first 15 minutes or so that are driving.
The M1 0W40 is not a true "40wt" it is on the thin side. In use it shears down to a 30wt then thickens back up over use. Keep in mind this was designed for European sports cares that had 15,000km oil change interval and over 500HP designed to be driven on Germany's Autobahn.
Last time I recommended a 0W30 was when Mobil-1 first brought their 0W30R racing oil to market in what 2003 to 2005 maybe. I liked Esso Xd-3 0W30 but you have to live in Canada or some place else to get it not available in USA. I liked Redlines 0W30 but it does not do anything their 5W30 does not do and cost what $3 more per quart thant he 5W30. Likewise Amsoils 5W30SS is a better product than their 0W30 so why bother.
Now if you went to something like a Diesel 5W40 then you would see a HUGE difference in fuel economy but a 0W40 like M1 will not behave like a Diesel 5W40 does different beasts do not let the "40" scare you like it does so many.
I dare you to run 0W30 for one oil change and then run 0W40 for one oil change. Do used oil analysis UOA and see for your self. Just make sure you do them over the same conditions so do not do one in the Summer and One in the Winter different conditions. Let facts speak for themselves not marketing and fear!
Given that broader-range oil grades have been associated with increased ring pack deposits, and that ring pack deposits have been an issue, how does using a wider-range oil weigh in against using the original 0W20 grade (or perhaps a 10W30 grade for us here in CA where the coldest temperature might be only as low as 30F)?
5W30 is already a higher load-temperature range oil than the specified 0W20, so where is the need to widen that range further on a stock Gen7 Camry?
Not sure why I need anything 0W at all since I drive only a few thousand miles per year with some of the trips being 110 miles.
And again, temperature here never below 30F.
Currently using 5W30 SuperTech (with change intervals under 5k since I don't drive often).
Peeps gonna run what they wanna run, hard to change minds. Ask CCN how many high mile 2.5's he has seen, i bet a few and they all running the 0W-20.
I know of one that has 200,000, on regular oil changes, running the 0W-20, no problemo.
Peeps gonna run what they wanna run, hard to change minds. Ask CCN how many high mile 2.5's he has seen, i bet a few and they all running the 0W-20.
I know of one that has 200,000, on regular oil changes, running the 0W-20, no problemo.