Official TN Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: So. Calif.
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Thanked 14 Times in 14 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
While I applaud the Youtube DIY video, I have a few comments:
- He says to gently remove the oil filter housing. Yes, be careful and try to avoid having the tool (whichever you choose to use) slip, but you might find the factory (or the last person who changed it) put it on tight. It might take a lot more force than "gentle" to break it loose.
- Likewise, when he puts the filter housing on, he uses a wrench and gives it (what looks like) a strong twist. I recommend very firm hand-tight, or just a very little more with a wrench. Tighter doesn't increase the chance it won't leak. You don't want it to come off by itself, but you might find it nearly impossible to get off next time if you really crank it down.
- When he unscrews the filter housing, he spins it all the way off, spilling oil and missing the collection pan. There are flat spots in the housing threads so if you spin it to certain positions, it will drain quickly and controllably. When it slows or stops, then spin it off the rest of the way.
- Personally, I wipe out the inside of the housing to make sure no debris or grime remains, before putting in the new filter.
- He glosses over changing the o-ring. Change the o-ring before you put the new filter into the housing. Remove the old o-ring and make sure the o-ring channel is clean. Put on the new o-ring and oil it well.
- He noted the new crush washer for the oil pan plug. My original one stuck on the pan (as it did on my 2000 RAV4) and I just reuse it. If you don't over-crush it, and it's not damaged, it won't leak. Or if you like, remove the old one (might require a screwdriver and hammer) and put on the new one. I don't plan to until I see a drip.
2010 Corolla LE