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3rd Generation (2014+) Forum dedicated to the discussion of 3rd generation Toyota Highlanders.

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post #76 of 1793 Old 03-13-2014, 09:53 PM
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Hey guys! I thought I should put in my 5cent for what is worth. I think the negociation can be successuful both ways just depends if you are made for one for the other. If you can hold your ground and know your price before walk in I think you can go to the dealer and spend some time face to face, going back in forth until you get what you want. If you just hate going through all the hustling match I think you can do very well from your computer desktop. My experience when buying my HL ended with over 4g off the MSRP without having to make one single phone call. I started with making my choice of trim, colors and optionals then I just went to the main toyota web and sent about 10 requests for quotes to different dealers. You will get very different numbers but remember, the game just started. Choose your best offer and send it back to the other ones asking them if they can beat it. Eventually you will end up with 2-3 dealers going back in forth. Never talk on the phone, just ask to be contacted by email only. Always copy paste the best offer in your counter offers. One other think that I think you should keep for youtself until you got the price you want is the trade in and the financing details. If you have a trade in wait until you get the best price for the new one before strating to negociate your old car value. If needed you can do the same thing you did for the new one. If you are going to pay cash, the dealer should not know that before hand because they make money off the financing also and if they find out that you pay cash they will hold on to a higher price. It worked well for me, I actually counter offer them even at the dealer as the other seller emailed me with an extra package just to make me go there. Hope this will work for others too. Good luck! P.s . I love my new HL!
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post #77 of 1793 Old 03-15-2014, 04:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coachcat View Post
Hey guys! I thought I should put in my 5cent for what is worth. I think the negociation can be successuful both ways just depends if you are made for one for the other. If you can hold your ground and know your price before walk in I think you can go to the dealer and spend some time face to face, going back in forth until you get what you want. If you just hate going through all the hustling match I think you can do very well from your computer desktop. My experience when buying my HL ended with over 4g off the MSRP without having to make one single phone call. I started with making my choice of trim, colors and optionals then I just went to the main toyota web and sent about 10 requests for quotes to different dealers. You will get very different numbers but remember, the game just started. Choose your best offer and send it back to the other ones asking them if they can beat it. Eventually you will end up with 2-3 dealers going back in forth. Never talk on the phone, just ask to be contacted by email only. Always copy paste the best offer in your counter offers. One other think that I think you should keep for youtself until you got the price you want is the trade in and the financing details. If you have a trade in wait until you get the best price for the new one before strating to negociate your old car value. If needed you can do the same thing you did for the new one. If you are going to pay cash, the dealer should not know that before hand because they make money off the financing also and if they find out that you pay cash they will hold on to a higher price. It worked well for me, I actually counter offer them even at the dealer as the other seller emailed me with an extra package just to make me go there. Hope this will work for others too. Good luck! P.s . I love my new HL!

well said. now let's see some pictures of your new HL.
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post #78 of 1793 Old 03-15-2014, 08:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coachcat View Post
Hey guys! I thought I should put in my 5cent for what is worth. I think the negociation can be successuful both ways just depends if you are made for one for the other. If you can hold your ground and know your price before walk in I think you can go to the dealer and spend some time face to face, going back in forth until you get what you want. If you just hate going through all the hustling match I think you can do very well from your computer desktop. My experience when buying my HL ended with over 4g off the MSRP without having to make one single phone call. I started with making my choice of trim, colors and optionals then I just went to the main toyota web and sent about 10 requests for quotes to different dealers. You will get very different numbers but remember, the game just started. Choose your best offer and send it back to the other ones asking them if they can beat it. Eventually you will end up with 2-3 dealers going back in forth. Never talk on the phone, just ask to be contacted by email only. Always copy paste the best offer in your counter offers. One other think that I think you should keep for youtself until you got the price you want is the trade in and the financing details. If you have a trade in wait until you get the best price for the new one before strating to negociate your old car value. If needed you can do the same thing you did for the new one. If you are going to pay cash, the dealer should not know that before hand because they make money off the financing also and if they find out that you pay cash they will hold on to a higher price. It worked well for me, I actually counter offer them even at the dealer as the other seller emailed me with an extra package just to make me go there. Hope this will work for others too. Good luck! P.s . I love my new HL!
Great advice...that will be my strategy too...thanks for posting your experince and outcome.
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post #79 of 1793 Old 03-15-2014, 09:16 AM
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I will have some pictures soon. I have to give it a wash first, here in Chicago area is been a very nasty weather all this winter! I am waiting also to have my side moldings and running boards instaled first.
That's the extra I negociated when they give me the best price. I ask them what they will trow in to make me go with one or the other.
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post #80 of 1793 Old 03-20-2014, 02:33 PM
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Congratulations . Is this consists of Rear Entertainment system as well?

Quote:
Originally Posted by JP_2014 View Post
Hello. Long time lurker here (well since we started researching cars)

1. XLE (Black on Black), 2nd row bench
2. AWD
3. MSRP: $38,789
[$37,500 base + $429 options (carpet floor mats, cargo liner, cargo net, rear
bumper applique, wheel locks) + $860 destination]
INVOICE: $35,874
PAID: $35,016 (not including taxes, registration fee)
4: MA

Was very hard to find an XLE in a dark color that had 2nd row bench seats. There were only a couple at the 3 dealerships we went to that had the XLE with 2nd row bench but they were in Blizzard Pearl. We really liked the Predawn Mica Gray, but none with the configuration we wanted were incoming. So we got the black, which still looks really, really sharp. From this forum and from truecar.com and kbb.com, I think we did alright on the deal. This one dealership beat all the other ones we went to, and even though it was about 40 miles away, was worth it to save the money.
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post #81 of 1793 Old 03-20-2014, 03:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Machoman321 View Post
1. Model - XLE with Rear Entertainment
2. 4WD
3. Propose Price :- 40700$ --> ( Detailed Info :- 37500(BasePrice)+860(Delivary)+1810(RES) + 210(BodySideMoulding)+ 225(Carpets) + 95(RearBumperProtector)
Paid Price :- 38000$
4: MO
5: any tips or tricks when making the purchase - They offered If I sign the deal on spot


I really doubt if I got a good deal or not after seeing all your prices.. Can someone please share your views if the price I spent is good or could have reduce ?? :-)
I go into a purchase with all the info I can get! here is from truecar.com

Unusually Low Price
Less than $37,900
Great Price
Less than $39,360
Good Price
Less than $40,401
Above Market
$40,401 or more

They list invoice with your specs at 37825 + junk fees ( for any price above) so for 38,000 plus tax i assume you got a good deal imho could you have done better maybe the real question is are you happy with the price you paid.
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post #82 of 1793 Old 03-20-2014, 03:22 PM
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Negotiating tips

Remember it is you as an individual against the sales team

1 don't do it at the dealer, find the car you want go in for a test drive and leave DO NOT negotiate on the spot.

2 call the sales person and ask about other options they do not have on the lot seem very interested in them.

3 remind the dealer that they are not the only game around and that you would be happy to travel out of region to get the car you want if they cannot do a dealer trade.

4 KNOW YOUR CAR! we have so much info at our fingertips Edmonds KBB and TrueCar all have pricing services find out what the services think a great price is and start your bidding well below that.
Carmax ( imo the only truthful no haggle price dealer) sells new cars in certain markets compare look up the vehicle you want there and see what there bottom line price there is.

5 Make the dealer feel you are settling for the car on their lot. Its still missing something you desperately want on it but you don't want to wait 8-12 weeks for a factory order.

6 Know what the most you are willing to pay is based on research. do not go above that number

7 know how long the car has been sitting on the dealer lot. Dealers are there to move cars. The longer a car is sitting on the lot the cheaper you can get it for. they always have new inventory coming in having a car on the lot for more than 30 days says 2 things. first the dealer is not willing to negotiate or second there is a problem with the car.
you will tend to get a better deal on a car that is on the lot for 3 weeks then one that just rolled off the truck.

Also negotiate with all the dealers in region if the dealer knows you are shopping for the best deal they will be more aggressive in the discounts.

the dealer feeds on a few main things (this goes for all sales people really)

You the buyer are emotional and will make a split second uninformed decision if they get you to negotiate on the spot.
you the buyer are alone They are a team with experience doing this They have hundreds of combined years of sales tactics you don't.

when you are trapped at the dealer they have the opportunity to wear you down. Don't let this happen walk away and talk on the phone.

Know that everything is negotiable unless the dealer is a no haggle place
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post #83 of 1793 Old 03-20-2014, 05:06 PM
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Has anyone recently used the Costco buying service on a 2014 Highlander ? Experiences ?

Thanks in advance
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post #84 of 1793 Old 03-20-2014, 05:19 PM
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Originally Posted by 29Merritt View Post
Has anyone recently used the Costco buying service on a 2014 Highlander ? Experiences ?

Thanks in advance
I bought using Costco service on Mar 8. Got a 7.3% discount on MSRP. Bought Limited Platinum from NYC.

Last edited by AarVee; 03-20-2014 at 05:23 PM.
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post #85 of 1793 Old 03-20-2014, 05:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AarVee View Post
I bought using Costco service on Mar 8. Got a 7.3% discount on MSRP. Bought Limited Platinum from NYC.
what kind of pricing did you get?
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post #86 of 1793 Old 03-20-2014, 05:48 PM
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You guys did very well. I am from Connecticut and got $1500 of the list price of $38960 for the XLE with options CC and CF. I thought I did OK until I read about your deals!!!
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post #87 of 1793 Old 03-20-2014, 05:54 PM
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Never buy a vehical over invoice. @ invoice the dealer still makes money, this is because invoice is not what the dealer pays its what the supplier wants the purchaser to think a car is worth. I spent many years in banking and finance and have a lot of family and friends in auto sales.
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post #88 of 1793 Old 03-20-2014, 08:24 PM
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I think Highlander prices in the MD area are higher than nationwide based on some of your responses. Even Carmax in Laurel, MD isn't approaching the invoice price on any of their new HL yet. they are a good 1500 above invoice.
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post #89 of 1793 Old 03-21-2014, 12:40 AM
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Thanks Biohazzard77. As you said, I could have reduce 500-1000$ to come under Best deal Category. Overall, I was able to reduce 2700$ from the listed price.

Thanks for the details from truecar

Quote:
Originally Posted by Biohazzard77 View Post
I go into a purchase with all the info I can get! here is from truecar.com

Unusually Low Price
Less than $37,900
Great Price
Less than $39,360
Good Price
Less than $40,401
Above Market
$40,401 or more

They list invoice with your specs at 37825 + junk fees ( for any price above) so for 38,000 plus tax i assume you got a good deal imho could you have done better maybe the real question is are you happy with the price you paid.
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post #90 of 1793 Old 03-21-2014, 12:50 AM
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Awesome Info.. Thanks for sharing ...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Biohazzard77 View Post
Negotiating tips

Remember it is you as an individual against the sales team

1 don't do it at the dealer, find the car you want go in for a test drive and leave DO NOT negotiate on the spot.

2 call the sales person and ask about other options they do not have on the lot seem very interested in them.

3 remind the dealer that they are not the only game around and that you would be happy to travel out of region to get the car you want if they cannot do a dealer trade.

4 KNOW YOUR CAR! we have so much info at our fingertips Edmonds KBB and TrueCar all have pricing services find out what the services think a great price is and start your bidding well below that.
Carmax ( imo the only truthful no haggle price dealer) sells new cars in certain markets compare look up the vehicle you want there and see what there bottom line price there is.

5 Make the dealer feel you are settling for the car on their lot. Its still missing something you desperately want on it but you don't want to wait 8-12 weeks for a factory order.

6 Know what the most you are willing to pay is based on research. do not go above that number

7 know how long the car has been sitting on the dealer lot. Dealers are there to move cars. The longer a car is sitting on the lot the cheaper you can get it for. they always have new inventory coming in having a car on the lot for more than 30 days says 2 things. first the dealer is not willing to negotiate or second there is a problem with the car.
you will tend to get a better deal on a car that is on the lot for 3 weeks then one that just rolled off the truck.

Also negotiate with all the dealers in region if the dealer knows you are shopping for the best deal they will be more aggressive in the discounts.

the dealer feeds on a few main things (this goes for all sales people really)

You the buyer are emotional and will make a split second uninformed decision if they get you to negotiate on the spot.
you the buyer are alone They are a team with experience doing this They have hundreds of combined years of sales tactics you don't.

when you are trapped at the dealer they have the opportunity to wear you down. Don't let this happen walk away and talk on the phone.

Know that everything is negotiable unless the dealer is a no haggle place
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