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(Mod) 2015 Highlander Navi/Phone lockout Bypass

125K views 151 replies 43 participants last post by  JimLev  
#1 · (Edited)
Ok, so like other Toyota's that I've owned (Tacoma and Tundra) I have found that using the Navigation and Phone controls while moving has been limited.

Let me say that this is something I wanted to do for my vehicles since I often times have a passenger (like on a long road trip) that we inevitably decide to detour to another stop besides our ultimate destination. Or while driving we want to use some of the phone options that are unavailable while the vehicle is moving. THIS IS NOT INTENDED TO BE USED TO DISTRACT THE DRIVER, AGAIN, IT IS FOR A PASSENGER TO INTERACT WHILE THE DRIVER CONCENTRATES ON THE ROAD. If you decide to do this, you do it at your own risk, I am not telling you to do it, nor am I warranting any part of this.

For the trolls that will inevitably post in this thread, if you dont like this mod dont do it. I dont care if you feel some kind of way about it or favor the Crux (or any other brand) bypass. This thread is solely for a How To Bypass the 2015 Highlander LTD w/JBL (And likely 2014, but I dont own that vehicle). This thread is NOT to hear your thoughts on bypassing lockouts, what features this How To doesnt have, or any negativity. If you desire to discuss any of these other things, please do so elsewhere.. create your own thread and have at it.

NOW, for the fun yet easy stuff (VERIFY ALL WIRING CONNECTIONS WITH A MULTIMETER, DONT JUST BLINDLY FOLLOW THIS HOW TO):

Heres a picture identifying the speed sense wire (white 28 pin plug, pin #17 , beige thin wire):
Image

this is the harness view if you where to unplug the harness from the head unit. so once you turn the harness around it will be the the third wire on the bottom from the right side.

1. Get some towels to protect dash pieces while working.

2. Remove A/C trim piece from around and below the head unit. Unplug and set aside.

3. Remove thin trim piece from above head unit (by the clock) and it extends to the right of the head unit.

4. Remove both left and right air vents by the head unit.

5. Remove 4 10mm bolts that hold the head unit in place. Place towels or other material on small shelf below head unit to protect interior.

6. Pull head unit out and set on towels, peal back loom and tape to expose the white 28 pin harness that is plugged into the top of the head unit just about center on the back. You can unplug this 28 pin harness if you would like.

7. Locate the speed sense wire (from above) and cut it in the middle so you have enough wire going into the harness as well as wire going back into the dash.

8. Attache a length of wire to each end that you have cut. I used solder and shrink tube, I didnt take pictures as I literally accomplished this in all of 12 minutes.

9. Route BOTH wires to a free uninhabited switch knock out plug, I used one of the spare ones on the left side of the steering wheel, lower row.

10. Reattach loom and tape to wire harness. and push head unit back into the dash.

11. Put the 4 10mm bolts back in and tighten.

12. replace air vents and surrounding trim as well as the A/C trim. Dont forget to plug anything you unplugged in earlier steps.

13. Over at the left of the steering wheel, or wherever you routed your TWO wires to. attach the wires to a standard SPST switch. You could use a lighted switch if you so desired.

14. Test out your handy work.

Image


Some things to note are that while this allows you to interact with the navigation and phone systems as if you were parked, the GPS will not update your position on the map when you have the speed sense wire disconnected. This is because you are tricking the Navigation system into thinking you are not moving. Rest assured though that once you do connect the speed sense back in (flip the switch back) the GPS will update your position. My experience was in about 10-20 seconds at most my location was updated. <----- not necessarily true, I noticed recently that my position still updated while driving and the speed sense was disconnected. your mileage may vary.

Sorry if I seemed a little like I was ranting in the beginning, I am just so use to people being negative and not willing to help. I couldnt find anything on the pin out on the back of the head unit or anyone willing to help locate info here at toyotanation. So I had to get a Master Tech to give the info. But as promised, I said I would bypass the lockout and post how it can be done for a fraction of the cost that a full featured (with video) bypass would cost. I dont care to have video in my vehicles anyways as everyone has tablets now.

Edit: I used these mini switches:
Image

http://www.ebay.com/itm/141091655471?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
 
#5 ·
Great mod thanks for posting! Whats funny to me is that I have found that the in-motion lockout does the exact opposite of its intended purpose.... I have found that when I try to set a destination without being able to use the normal inputs I get sooo frustrated, end up having to resort to using my phone etc etc. In other words, I get waayyy more distracted than if I could have simply used all the nav features. Love my Acura that it lets me do anything anytime, saves so much frustration. Ugh, Toyota lol
 
#6 ·
Question on taking out vents

Great post!
I would like to try this one along with the other back-up camera mod since I will be making the mods on the same connector! I can do the soldering, get switch, shrink wrap, cut wire etc. Easy! I would like to know what it takes to take out the vents etc which surround the head unit. Can anyone provide details? Video perhaps? Do I need a plastic pry tool for removal? Where are release points?
Thanks!
 
#7 ·
#8 ·
Thanks again for posting this information. I am seriously thinking about doing this to our HLP. I cant even count the number of times we have been frustrated to heck because we cant input anything or even switch which one of our iPhones is connected. Then I attempt to use the voice recognition to input the address and get even more frustrated after that. Usually my wife or kid start talking during the process and screw it all up lol. What a PITA Toyota and other manufacturers designed things to actually be more distracting than the actual distraction they are trying to eliminate lol. How is it some manufacturers will not let you do anything while driving, while others have no lock outs whatsoever? My Acura TL-S has full functionality of everything at all times. I like my wife's new HLP, but im still warming myself up to this whole Toyota thing. My favorite is the huge warnings all over the all-weather mats regarding the pedals LOL....no thanks, I'll stick with my Weathertechs :)
 
#9 ·
Tillithz - awesome. Any chance you could post up a short video showing the modification in action? I see YouTube has some for past models...would be great confidence booster to see it actually work with the flip of your switches.

Couple questions: I see some people referencing a 'backup camera mod'..... I must have missed that. What is it and what is it's purpose? I hadn't noticed any issues with my backup camera that I can think of.

Also - and don't take this as being a 'negative troll'.... but given the cost of the head unit, I do worry about what would happen if it needed some warranty work and the dealership saw that wires had been cut/spliced/etc? I'd hate to think I was out a $4k piece of electronics. I am sure all will be fine - you seem to know your stuff. I know it was super quick for you but damn, would have been great to see a video step-by-step. Like a lot of guys... I can't follow directions well, because I am 99% visual. :)

Thanks man!
 
#10 ·
right on, i can do a video but then we get into the distracted driving part of things as i dont really have a passenger with me except on trips. for the wiring and warranty, I suggest doing a clean job, using similar stuff like tape and loom and going as far back on the harness as possible so that if a radio needs warranty the dealer doesnt even see it close to the harness plugs. But either way, the dealer cant deny a warranty merely by the sight of wiring being modified. Of course its a conversation you probably dont want to have but they have to prove the modification is what caused the problem.

the backup cam mod is simply to turn the camera on when you arent backing up... like if you are towing or have a bike rack and are worried that something is loose or just want to keep an eye on things periodically you dont have to put in reverse.

the hardest part of this mod is taking the dash apart, and its not that hard either. you probably just want to be careful cuz this is your baby and dont want to break anything like me. it honestly isnt hard, theres only a couple wires you need. ill see about a video in a bit when I can do it safely. ty
 
#13 ·
yes it allows for everything locked out to function as if you are sitting still, keep in mind however it will not update your position on the map until you switch back, so if you leave it switched for 10 minutes or more you will find yourself on the map where you first flipped the switch... if that makes sense? heh

This looks awesome, but I have a few questions.
1) How did you cut the switch in to the blank?
2) I see two switches - Is the second for the backup camera or something?
3) I note on the following site http://www.top4runners.com/ja/2007/navoverride.html that they talk about using a switch on the speed sense wire but state that only works for 15 seconds, and then the unit senses you are moving via the GPS and blocks you out anyways "At first thought, it seems as though a simple inline switch on the vehicle speed sensor wire going to the navigation system would unlock the system and allow your passenger to utilize the nav system while the vehicle is moving. Initially this works, but when the GPS sensor senses movement while there is no speed signal present, the system will again lockout all features after 15 seconds. " Have you experienced that?

that is not accurate for the 15. I dont know if it is accurate for other years or model head units but for the 15 and jbl sound system it works indefinitely when switched. I did this on my 14 tundra sr5 too and works fine.
 
#12 ·
This looks awesome, but I have a few questions.
1) How did you cut the switch in to the blank?
2) I see two switches - Is the second for the backup camera or something?
3) I note on the following site http://www.top4runners.com/ja/2007/navoverride.html that they talk about using a switch on the speed sense wire but state that only works for 15 seconds, and then the unit senses you are moving via the GPS and blocks you out anyways "At first thought, it seems as though a simple inline switch on the vehicle speed sensor wire going to the navigation system would unlock the system and allow your passenger to utilize the nav system while the vehicle is moving. Initially this works, but when the GPS sensor senses movement while there is no speed signal present, the system will again lockout all features after 15 seconds. " Have you experienced that?
 
#20 ·
yes jung5854.

the trim can be intimidating but just take your time and have patience. the fit and finish is pretty exact so things fit perfectly. I used a pry tool made of plastic and my fingers. I rarely use anything metal, even wrapped in tape or cloth just cuz im anal. I installed a dashcam as well but havent gotten up the energy to do a write up. so some might want to consider power connections for other things like dash cams when you have the head unit out since the wiring indicated as ignition isnt really the ignition you would use for a low powered accessory because its monitored by the computer and will likely cause issues with the push to start... but no need to get into that too much here.
 
#21 ·
Is there any short harness extender out there? Would love to be able to keep factor harness intact and splice the separate adapter. That way I could easily reverse the procedure. My concern is that if something ever happens to my head unit I might have to explain what is going on and then prove it didn't break the unit. I personally purchased the 8 year extended warranty and try not to do things to allow Toyota the ability to deny claims. I realize it is all remote possibilities.

For that reason I personally was thinking of still buying prestigious society. But if there was some kind of harness extender that would be a cheap alternative for me.




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#22 ·
sure, youd have to go to toyota find the part number for the factory wire harness, then research the other end and make the harness. or you could check with metra, scosche, and other manufactures of aftermarket wire harnesses. its up to you but is a great deal of work and money for two wires.
 
#24 ·
not having a good relationship with your dealer is a bigger issue I think. I've shown the dealer service advisor, service manager, and the master tech that is the only one to work on my vehicles. Of course if anything I do causes a problem then its my responsibility to fix.

Do the other bypasses if you want, get a harness if you want, but that wont change morally whos responsibility it is if something breaks. This thread was intended to show theres another way thats reliable to get the functions back. warranty issues are only an issue if what you do AND what can be proved you did caused the problem. which you would have with a different bypass too. this way is very simple and is proven to work with less electronics and integration then a full blow bypass that could fail very differently then the way this mod could fail. not to mention the cost is a fraction of what the other bypasses cost.
 
#25 ·
I agree with everything you are saying and fully appreciate that you took the time to figure this out and more importantly post your results. That is what makes this forum great.

I was just inquiring about a harness alternative to make me feel a little better. That is a personal issue :)

Please do not take anything I have said as anything beyond me inquiring about alternative approaches. I do appreciate everything you do for the forum.




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