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power window

2K views 18 replies 9 participants last post by  fourputt 
#1 ·
I own a 2000 Solara v6 with 160,000 miles on it. I just finished the job of timing belt, water pump, tensioner and idler, cam and crank seals, valve cover gaskets (whew) spark plugs and spark plug boot seals in valve cover. The car runs great. I ever replaced the upstream oxygen sensors after a code was set. That fixed that problem. Now I am having problems with the driver side power window. About four years ago I could not get the window to work at all. I removed the door panel and was beginning to remove the window motor and for some reason it started working again. No problem since that day until yesterday. Now it tries to come up but the only way is I have to grab it with my hand and get it started. Same thing when lowering it. I can hear something slipping it seems. Any tips on what might be going on before I remove the panel to look. The window motor looked like a pain to replace but I can do that job if thats what I find is the problem. Thanks for any tips before I tear into it. fourputt
 
#3 ·
I can just hear the motor spinning and the window will not move. I can tak my hand and give it a pull and it will come on up. Do you know how much of a job it is to replace the regulator? I wonder what is slipping? to cause this. I will try and remove the panel next week and maybe can see more of whats happening. Thanks.
 
#4 ·
Its not too bad, I recently did my rear passenger side and it was doing the samething as yours, just spinning. And I'd seen guides but I just pretty much figured it out as I went a long, uh make sure you get painters tape to hold the window up, because it tends to fall after u take out the bolts that go through the window :p

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#6 ·
It was both, the car I got it from was a 97 or 98. The design was a little different ie one of the holes, on mine it was like a nipple but the one I got was a tube with a hole in the middle but everything lined up and it actually works just as well as the year old rear driverside that was replaced last year with a new OEM one from the dealership. I have pics and ill post them tomorrow

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#7 ·
Tip about replacing the regulator. Replace the whole assembly! you can try to do just the motor but it's very risky, because if the cable unwraps from the pulley while its off the motor, you'll never get it back on. Also, be careful where you order from. The dealership wanted $300+ for one regulator, so i bought a $40 one online. After a few months, it went bad again. So make sure you get a quality, full assembly. The job is really easy though.
 
#10 ·
I replaced the motor and regulator on my wife's 96 Camry drivers side. I ordered it from Amazon and it came as one unit. All I did was remove the door panel, unplug the motor, and unscrew the bolts holding the regulator to the door frame. Installation was just in reverse. It took me about 30 minutes. It's been working fine ever since. The whole assembly (motor & regulator) cost me $67.
 
#11 ·
one thing i noticed in the new motor/regulator is that i saw how the broken one actually broke. the cog shaped thing that went through the regulator broke, but the replacement one i got was attached to the motor differently
 
#12 ·
I am still not sure which one I need. I found this one on ebay
http://www.ebay.com/itm/TOYOTA-OEM-6980206020-Window-Regulator-/150965121214
The left motor is $78.99 at rockauto. I wonder why the right side is only $43.79 ??
Like I mentioned, the windows stopped working about 3 years ago. It would not do anything when I tried to raise or lower. I removed the door panel and after fooling around with it all of a sudden it started working and has worked perfect for 3 years now. It is not doing what it did 3 years ago. Now I can get it to come up by pulling with my hand. It sounds like something is slipping. I found a rebuilt motor at rockauto but again I am not sure which one I need. I wish I could find the complete unit. Thanks and any more tips appreciated. fourputt
 
#16 ·
i got the same problem too. all my windows works but my driver side doesn't roll back up. it only roll back up with hand force and when i give several minutes for it to recoup then it die after an inch (repeat til fully close). it rolls down only. i haven't troubleshoot the problem due to complex work schedule. i hope it just the master switch that is crapping out. waiting to see what these guys have to say at the OP.
 
#18 ·
There are three common failure modes on these. In order of most to less common (IMHO):

1) The regulator is bad. On the Gen 3's the cable often goes bad. Gen 4's don't have the cable. Sometimes the motor fails. Sometimes the gears strip.

2) The wiring between the door and the door jamb breaks. Those wires get flexed every time the door opens/closes, so they fatigue and break. This can affect windows on other doors, as they get their power thru the driver's door master switch. This is usually a 1 or a Zero. If a wire's broken, there's usually no "kinda working".

3) The switches are failing. This thread in the DIY sticky talks about some little nubs on the plastic button(s) that might be the problem... http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...01/213774-diy-power-window-master-switch.html

There are some other things, like the window binding up in the tracks. But those aren't nearly as common.
 
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