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Old 06-12-2007, 02:59 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by felonyr301
Actually whiterabbit it does matter but you would of noticed a problem from the start so you probably did it right lol.

So you got the same spring rate as me so tell me how does it do going over speed bumps and stuff?
go over speed bumps and rough roads slowly and with caution. small bumps make me go airborne sometimes, lol. kinda cool, but not fun if it happens alot

and i really dont think it matters which one is left or right, the lower mount does spin and they can only go in with one orientation
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Old 06-12-2007, 03:00 PM   #17 (permalink)
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i am also still on stock 14s, lol. if you have thinner sidewalls, the ride will def be more rough and bumpy, youll feel all the pebbles
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Old 06-12-2007, 03:13 PM   #18 (permalink)
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oh trust me i do more bump and pot-hole dodging than actual driving in my town, cause the city wont fix our roads - good thing i know exactly where to go and baby my ride lol

and yes after a closer instection, the whole damper is basically one big thread where all the components rotate on (lower mount, brakeline holder, etc.)
after reading the small book that comes wtih the kit, it says to tighten the lower spring seat to JUST SNUG the bottom of the spring tight, then lock the seat in place wtih the second orange locking ring with the provided spacers - a pretty easy job

then position the second part (the brake line mount) in the desired position and lock it in place wtih its own ogance lock rings - no problem

then finally adjust the top lock ring and the lower damper mount to the desired ride height and follow it by the black end cap and lock it in place.

then line up the other side and position all the components along the thread exactly like the first side you did (remembering to reverse the position of the brakeline mount 180 degrees) and tighten all the lock rings very well

clean em up so dirt isnt in the threads and tighten the camber hex bolts on the pillow ball top mount and install like any other strut/spring

then do the same for the rears, also making sure to adjust for the rear endlinks

havent done it yet but thats the plan....
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Old 06-12-2007, 10:45 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Ohh ok I'm on stock 14's too. Another thing to point out is that the lighter the wheel you put on the more ride comfort you gain so if I were you I would wait a bit and save more money to get light weight wheels if going 17's or up. Like Volks or SSR's or something like that.

I'm planning to get those 95 Mazda Millenia 15" alloy wheels which weigh like 11.5 pounds (pretty cheap for light wheels lol) for the time being till I buy the rims I really want. Basically use those for the winter time when I get the other rims!!
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Old 06-13-2007, 12:26 AM   #20 (permalink)
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i want coilovers

cant wait to see what it looks like when you put them on
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Old 06-13-2007, 04:19 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Congrats!...u finally got em...Looking forward to seeing them installed!
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Old 06-14-2007, 10:18 PM   #22 (permalink)
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ya so basically after 3 days and 300km of strut blowing street/highway/rain driving, i have nothing else to say other than GET YOURSELF A SET NOW!

thats probly the most benificial upgrade you can do performance/suspension-wise

and all for under a grand

PS: my kindeys, though quite shaken, are still hangin in there hehe
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Old 06-17-2007, 11:39 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Nice
I assume no spring compressor is required to swap coilovers.
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Old 06-18-2007, 12:00 AM   #24 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Nice
I assume no spring compressor is required to swap coilovers.

There is no need to disassemble the old set-up, so your answer is no.
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