everythigns going to be custom so ya better off looking for a local workshop and working with them to get what you want.
if youre an engine builder then you would have your sources already.
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125 front wheel horsepower with major retard issues between 4500-5200RPM -
OD switched off, even when not in 3rd results in major power loss/rpm drop.
hmmmm, that's scary. I see why you've asked in many different threads on different boards about engine kits. If you are used to Ford's 5.0, you are coming from a different world. There are many engine building kits and readily available parts for that engine. There is nothing available for the 1MZ-FE. As I posted on SolaraGuy, everything will be custom and/or from other applications and VERY expensive. I don't know anyone that considers AutoZone an engine builder. -JoeB
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not to build engines just for parts meaning autozone. just wondering if i was to buy a rebuilt engine would that be smarter than buiding one i have like $2000 to play with do ya think i might be able to do a mild build with that much not going crazy like your car but able to handle 6lbs safely i have bigger injectors ,fuel mod s/c,exaust, and i run 93 with octane booster added. thats the best i can do with running high octane
It's hard to do anything in the engine for $2k. Parts alone will run at least that much. Machine work is pretty expensive too. Unless you will be doing all the labor, I just don't see how it would be possible. A rebuilt engine isn't going to help you any unless they used forged pistons on the rebuild. Sorry, I know this isn't much help but my advice would be save that $2k. If you don't have an A/F piggy-back and a good tune, the way you are pushing it, you will soon need that money and more. -JoeB
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i just ordered the apexi safc2 so that should help out ? how do i tune it in do i drive the car or does it have to go on the dyno ill have it in 3 days so i could use all the info on how to use it and also yes the rebuid comes with forged pistons
If you can buy a rebuilt engine with stock compression and forged pistons for a good price, that's probably your best bet if you plan to stick with 6psi. With that setup, I would feel comfortable going to 7psi. Even 8psi with a better management system that could pull some timing.
As far as installing the SAFC2, there are some install/setup guides around. You should be able to find them with a little searching. I forget where they are posted. If you have any questions on the settings, post them and there are many of us with them installed that can tell you.
As for tuning it, you'll need an OBD2 scanner to tune the closed loop and a WBO2 sensor/gauge to tune the open loop or take it to a dyno for tuning the open loop. Don't assume they will tune the closed loop for you though, I've never seen a dyno shop do that. -JoeB
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you probably want forged rods/pins as well... 1mzfe rods are piss poor,theyll probably break b4 you start to melt the stock pistons.
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125 front wheel horsepower with major retard issues between 4500-5200RPM -
OD switched off, even when not in 3rd results in major power loss/rpm drop.
you probably want forged rods/pins as well... 1mzfe rods are piss poor,theyll probably break b4 you start to melt the stock pistons.
Actually, the rods aren't really all that bad. I'd personally never push them past about 350-400 to the wheels but they can certainly safely take 7-8psi. I would consider replacing the rod bolts though with some good quality ones from ARP. The rods definitely will take much more than the pistons. -JoeB
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