Brake Question/Problem

[hang3xc]

Hi
I have a 99 Solara SLE.

I just replaced my rear struts and strut mounts, plus sway bar links and bushings because I had the loud banging at right rear that seems somewhat common. While doing this job I noticed the rotors didn't look good at all, though there was lots of meat left on the pads, so I figured I might as well get some new rotors and pads while I was at it.

Anyway, I installed the new rear rotors and ceramic pads. I've done this a few dozen times in the last twenty years, for myself and others, and have never had a problem. This time, however, the pedal is very low & feels somewhat spongy, as if there is air in the line. The thing is, I never opened the bleeder screws. I simply gently squeezed the caliper piston back into it's bore using an old pad and a "C" clamp like I've always done. They went back in very easy.

Why would the pedal be so low and spongy? They won't even pump up to nice, high, and firm. With the crappy messed up rotors there was maybe 1 inch between no brake and total brake.The pedal WAS nice, high, & firm. I could've put an unbuckled passenger through the windshield if I slammed on the brakes. I haven't driven the car yet except for maybe 100' back and forth in front of my house 2-3 times very slowly to see if pedal would stiffen up. They work, the pedal just doesn't feel right at all.

In the past, on all other cars I've owned, I would pump up the brakes in the driveway after 7-8 pedal depressions and then they'd be solid. Good to go.

I could bleed them just to see if it helps, but when replacing the sway bar bushings, both bolts on both sides twisted the heads off and I had to drill out the bolt and re-tap the hole, even though I used PB Buster, waited overnight, then heated them up with a small torch before attmepting to remove them. SO, I really don't want to mess with 9+ year old bleeder screws if I don't have to.

Thanks,
Ron

Raybestos ceramic, what I used, claim to need NO bed in procedure

[Akfahad]

Yeah...you do the same thing I do when changing out the rotors/pads. Are you loosing fluid? Maybe a leak? Only other thing I can think of is that when you depressed the ring back into the caliper housing, maybe it got seized up....rust or something. I hear ya on not wanting to try to blead the lines with possible seized bolts, especially living in MA, I'm sure that they're nice and tight!

[Gadgetjq]

H3,

Unfortunately I can't give you a direct answer to your question but suspect the problem could be related to doing things just like you've "always done." With anti-lock brakes doing things the old way might have a downside we aren't aware of.

That said, I had no issues replacing pads and rotors on my '04 Solara using exactly the same 'push the piston back' method you did.

Another possibility, unless you've changed it you have ten-year-old brake fluid in the entire system. The usual replacement schedule is every two years max. Considering your situation I'd let a reputable brake shop bleed the system. If a bleeder breaks off, it's their problem and they have the tools to deal with it.

Cheers

[littlebookworm]

I pretty much agree with the advice Gatgetjq gave you. If those bleeder screws haven't been moved since 1999, you're best off having a brake shop do it. I would suggest that, in the future, when you put on new pads and need to depress the pistons, especially on cars with ABS, you open the bleed screws and push the fluid out. The master technician who taught me, many years ago, explained that just pushing the pistons back without opening the bleeding screws can blow the seals on the pistons. In all honesty, I've never seen a piston blow a seal from just pushing it back, but why take a chance. Granted, opening the screws could have been a real problem with these calipers, but those screws aren't supposed to be allowed to rust in. Unfortunately, you can't use any kind off rust buster on them. Worst case scenario would be broken screws necessitating rebuilt calipers. Good luck and let up know how things work out. Hy