so i have this 2000 solara - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

rboatright · 01-01-2009, 05:43 PM

and when i changed the battery the engine light came on... no obvious problems with the car and my trucks light has been on for years so i just kinda ignored it dumb right... so anyways 5 months later now its gotten really cold in minnesota and the solara started running a bit sluggish like its missing or is out of time maybe? but my truck is doing as well... now my trucks sluggishness goes away after it warms up or the weather gets above 10 degreesish but my solara has been running sluggish ever since. now i went and added some higher octane gas and it helped but its still slightly sluggish and so i thought maybe i needed a gas treatment. none of this has worked yet and the engine light started flashing briefly but then the blink went away... can someone help me figure this out?

nemoxfishy · 01-02-2009, 06:53 PM

Your best solution is to pull a code from the check engine light, then you'll know whats wrong with your car.

rboatright · 01-03-2009, 08:46 AM

i did pull the codes i got p300 p301 p304 p135... i also changed the plugs and wires... it seems to be running a little better but not great... th check engine light flashes at times but then goes back to being on all the time? weird? i just want it to run smooth... the studder i was told may be freeze moisture in the fuel line or a dirty fuel filter... would this cause the car to studder?

***new echo owner*** · 01-03-2009, 08:56 AM

Do you have a I4? Or V6?

N.E.O.

rboatright · 01-03-2009, 10:44 PM

v6... and heres the thing i changed the plugs and the check engine light went off... but the car studders from a stopped position or when at 60 mph and i try to accelerate faster... ???

***new echo owner*** · 01-04-2009, 01:16 AM

The code P0300, P0301, P0304 are engine misfire codes, and P0135 is the heater circuit for the A/F or O2 sensor for bank 1 sensor 1.

You may have an ignition coil going out on #4 cylinder, since it fires both #1 and #4 cylinders. You can swap it with either one of the other two coils to see if the misfire move to the other set of cylinders.

As far as the P0135, you can check the heater circuit of the sensor; depending on whether you have a Cal spec vehicle or a Federal spec vehicle, you can either have an A/F sensor for Cal spec, or an O2 for the Fed.

The 'studders' you are experiencing is probably the engine misfiring.

N.E.O.

rboatright · 01-04-2009, 11:10 PM

so how do i know which one it is? from the drivers side front to drivers side rear in a clock wise order?

rear
456
321
front
???

and do i just swap the coil pack with another and drive it seeing if the studder happens at a different speed? or should i just take it back to autozone and have the odb II put back on to see what codes i get?

rboatright · 01-04-2009, 11:11 PM

could a dirty fuel filter be causing this ?

***new echo owner*** · 01-04-2009, 11:19 PM

The rear cylinders are, from right side of the car: 1, 3, 5. The front cylinders are, from right side of the car, 2, 4, 6.

Swap the coils, drive it until the CEL comes on, then go and have the codes pull, otherwise, there might not be anything store in there. However, before doing that, you will have to clear the current memory, so you won't get the current codes confuse with the old ones. You can do that by disconnecting the battery for a few minutes while you are swapping the coil.

If it is fuel filter related, it would have affect more cylinders than just the two that are paired together on the same coil.

N.E.O.

Jakecallun20 · 01-16-2009, 11:22 AM

Alright, I had the P0135 Code on my car, I'm not cali spec but I do know that bank 1 sensor 1 is the sensor on the rear exhaust manifold. The best way to check if your car is cali spec, is to read the label under the hood, or inside the door jam. Since your in MN I doubt its cali, but you need to check. An A/F sensor is alot more than an O2 sensor. As far as the misfire, what was said earlier, is the best bet. The 1MZ has 3 coils, and 3 wires running to the back cylinder, Now reset the computer with the battery and then pull the pack and swap them, I think you'll have to drive the car like 30 or so miles before the computer realizes theres something wrong and gives you a CEL. Then have the codes read at autozone, and compare. If it is the SAME code, then it sounds like there could be a problem with the wiring going to the coils, but if the codes are for different cylinder misfires, then you have a bad coil. You can go to Toyota and buy a coil, but check Ebay first, theres almost always a few coils up there. Also check your local scrap yards first, I've seen several V6 Camrys scrapped there. Hope you have a better understanding now.