Hi all I am a certified toyota tech, proud celica and camry owner
hi all im hopeing to help out and hopefully meet some other people into modded toyotas. Im from oklahoma so u can imagine there isn't a whole lot of import action around, but don't get me wrong there are some enthusiasts around and definetly some beautiful cars but theres a lot of country here. I own a 99 camry and an 87 celica, and I have been working for toyota for 3 years and I love it. I'm 23 and have a wife and two kids, all of whom I love very much. Thats about it and I'm glad to be a member.
My camry is slightly modded bob I've installed trd rear sway bar, trd strut tower brace, trd exhaust, injen short ram intake, ngk iridium plugs with ngk low resistance plug wires, and another little trick for toyota automatic transmissions if you tighten the throttle pressure cable(kickdown cable) about 1/8 inch your transmission shift points will change and ur acceleration will go up without any loss to the gas milage. My camry dinos at 143 h.p. at 4200 rpm and 129 ft-lbs torque at 3200 rpm. The celica however i just got about 4 months ago, i've only installed the air flow meter adapter and short ram but its using a little bit of oil(what can i say its 16 years old) So im gonna hold off and rip apart the block for new rings and bearings. Thats a beautiful solara by the way is it a 1mz, 5s, or 2az?
thanks for the welcome cam2 love the x runner i still haven't got to drive one of those but a friend of mine had the older s-runner with trd headers and full exhaust with k&n cold air and it was a scary little ride. i see ur from california do all the extra emissions cause problems for u modding ur cars or is it a what they don't know won't hurt them kinda thing. Im just asking cause here in oklahoma most of us couldn't pass an emissions test if we wanted to. and how long have u been a tech?
I'm actually in sales. Been selling Toyota's for 3 years now. I used to be a Service Advisor, and was a general service tech before that(right out of H.S.)
They're pretty strict about emmissions down here, but most people know somebody that will pass it
New member also. Quick question. We have an 87 ST which when cold cranks 7 or 8 seconds before starting. (has done that for 9 years). Heard once that it could have something to with a cold start injector. Any ideas? Thanks. Other than that the car runs great.
your cold start injector probably is the problem, you can see it as soon as u pop the hood right in the center of the intake manifold with a small fuel line running to it with a banjo bolt securing it. remove the injector and find a good battery and some injector cleaner. soak the injector in a cup full of the cleaner(u will need new o-rings for the injector and a new crush washer for the banjo bolt) after about 3 min. take the injector pointed away from ur face and fill the hole with fresh injector cleaner then use some jumper wires to actuate the injector while useing a air blower to help push the cleaner through the injector. you may have to repeat this procedure multiple times but when you actuate the injector you want to see a fine mist come from both sides of the injector. once you get a good mist reinstall and try you cold start. If that doesn't fix it have your nearest dealer do a top end cleaning which should knock all the carbon off the tops of your intake valves. Then you should be good to go. Also three to five revolutions on cold start is normal, because the computer doesn't use the camshaft position signal till after the first revolution of the engine. Happy fixing let me know how it goes. any questions just post back here.
Hi Kain. You have joined a great forum. I'm still trying to figure out how to post pics also. I had to forward them to another TN Member. Maybe someone will offer. Good luck and welcome!
hi Kain, glad you are here, I have a 90 celica Gt , 2.2L engine. my problem is when cold or first start engine the rpm raise to 2400rpm and will back normal to 800rpm after engine warm, whioch is normally is about 1200rpm when cold start , any idea what wrong with that? and also have oil leaks below the intake manifold on position cyl no4, I replaced valve cover gasket and distributor oring seal which is very common any ide where that oil come from? thanks
well manasse i would suggest cleaning all the oil off of your engine and putting some dye, which u can get at any toyota dealership parts department, in the oil. then drive about drive it till it starts to leak again then use a black light to find the leak. The dye will glow in the black light and you should be able to find ur leak fairly easily. I also just recieved an email stating that u can upload pics to the toyota nation picture gallery so u can post the images.
hi Kain, thanks for your advise I will do that this week end, also do you have any idea about the high rpm when first start too ? ( when engine cold) . I also trying to figure out how to upload pics,thanks again...
well manasse the high idle thing could be a little more complicated, so ill just name off a few things it could be...First your idle air control valve could be sticking which is probably it, but it also could be a problem with you engine coolant temp sensor, and ill have to do some research and find out but there also could be a cold start injector timer malfunctioning depending on if your car has that design or not. I would start with the iac valve which is easiest. Pull the air intake hose off and get some throttle body cleaner(not carb cleaner) and clean the throttle blade and the intake bore as best you can a wire brush is okay to use to help knock the carbon off if u need to. Then u should see a square hole in the throttle bore right in front of the throttle blade fill that hole with the throttle cleaner, then put your hose back on, and start the car. It will be very hard to start because of the cleaner richening the mixture, and it will probably smoke like crazy for a while after it starts but this is also normal and will clean up after 5 or so minutes of driving it. Okay once it starts turn the steering wheel all the way one way, the stress the pump puts on the motor will cause the iac valve to open more and it will suck that cleaner in the valve and probably try to die on you. Thats okay if it does. After you've done that pull the hose back off and fill the hole again repeat that procedure 3 or 4 times before you drive it. Once your satisfied with your cleaning job, get some regular dexcron 3 trans fluid and a sringe or small oiling can and take the intake hose back off and lubricate the ends of the rod the throttle blade is bolted to, also lube the rod on the outside of the thottle body as well and the throttle return spring, Then let the tranny fluid soak on those things for about an hour. Be carefull not to get any tranny fluid in that hole that you cleaned before because it could damage the valve when it actuates, just have a rag ready. After that put it all back together start it up and drive for a while, Then the next morning try your cold start and see what happens. let me know and we'll see where we need to go after that. Good Luck
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Let us know all about yourself and your car. Break the ice in here.
Maybe someone will offer. Good luck and welcome!
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