most autox isn't real taxing on your brakes. it's your tires in the corners. make sure you pump them up to at least 38 psi. get some chalk (like the little kids use on the sidewalk/driveway, ya know?) and make some marks on the edges of your tread. this will help you gauge tire pressure. make the marks & make a run. if they rub off, you need more air, if they dont rub off you have too much air.
a common approach at tire pressure...
the method described above is to mark ur sidewalls and drive around...
if after a lap u see that the chalk has rubbed off then u need to add more air into the tires to increase traction(BTW this is only applicable to auto-x).
u just keep adding till it's good. of course, there is a point where u have too much. usually the ppl go 40psi(civic drivers)
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if after a lap u see that the chalk has rubbed off then u need to add more air into the tires to increase traction(BTW this is only applicable to auto-x).
If your tire is over inflated, not all of the tread will be making contact with the ground and therefore not all polish on the tread will wear off.
If your tire is underinflated, the tire will rollover onto the sidewall and wear off the polish there. This is obviously bad, because sidewalls were not made to grip.
If your tire is inflated correctly, only the tread will contact the ground during your runs. The chalk or shoe polish will wear away on the tread, and not the sidewall.
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Last edited by Siver_Cartel; 12-17-2004 at 11:38 AM.
If your not on the gas, your on the brake. But your never coasting. Coasting is time you could be doing one or the other.
Alloys are stronger than steelies in the terms of flex/strangth
Watch your speed coming into slaloms. You may even want to slow down beyond what you think is right. Coming into a slalom to "Hot" will send you into a spin. You can always accel once you are in it and have the groove down.
Always walk the course before hand. Figure out your line ahead of time, keep in mind which side to take on optional slaloms.
Pace out the cones in slaloms to see if the distance changes. This will help plan out your entry.
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a common approach at tire pressure...
the method described above is to mark ur sidewalls and drive around...
if after a lap u see that the chalk has rubbed off then u need to add more air into the tires to increase traction(BTW this is only applicable to auto-x).
u just keep adding till it's good. of course, there is a point where u have too much. usually the ppl go 40psi(civic drivers)
Actually the same rules apply to other automotive sports, not just auto-x
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flashmn
why not just use a tire pressure gauge? :P
because each course is different and requires your tire to be at certain psi ro run properly..... for instance lets take Sebring forexample where I run quite regularly, for best rire performance and tread life and so forth I run 10-20 psi lower of what is on the tire, I hit all my lines, with not chalk rub off. the reason I sy 10-20 lower is because at any given time it can be really hot or really cool so the 10% lower is usually for the coolers days and I run the 15-20% for the more hotter days cause of the heating of the air inside of the tire will expand and create more pressure.
another example is lets say I'm running at Poconos Raceway (i never been there), the track is completely different from Sebring so I need to find the right pressure i need to run and a tire guage wont tell you that your running on your sides or how the tire is performaning on the course
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One thing that's not in the guide is this: At last season's last event, there was a guy I spoke with who drove a mostly stock lancer... only thing he had done was RSB. He said that ever since installing it, he always spun out. Wasn't sure if it was the sway or his inexperience causing that, so he got a seasoned autoxer to drive the car on the course. but they spun out, too.
I can't recall if he'd changed any other suspension parts, but we basically came to the conclusion that his particular rsb was way too beefy and caused massive oversteer, so I advised he use the chalk method to gauge the point of underinflation and set his front tires just below that point. Helped a bunch for him, because the front underinflation promoted understeer which he could handle better than the snap-oversteer he was experiencing.
So the chalk method is also a sort of gauge to use for tuning your car's handling for a particular course sometimes outside the realm of simple tire traction.
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