upgrading brake system/ideal brakes?

[mr2poweraw11]

I hope someone can add to the pros and cons, no one in the mr2 forum has, but my rx7 friends have. The 85-86 rear brakes differ from 87-89, the later models i believe came with bigger rotors to reduce warping. Since my rear brakes failed, and im lazy, im looking to basically upgrade everything (brake system) while im already going to work on the car.

Here are my questions,
1.85-86 and 87-89 use the same size brake pads, so how is performance different?

I know the 87-89 discs are thicker, so more reliable? but thicker probably means heavier, which means rotating weight right? My friend also pointed out that bigger rotors means better leverage (at least in rx-7s).

2. what can i do to shorten stopping distance?

Heres a list from what i believe would help.

TIRES!
WEIGHT REDUCTION.
BIGGER CALIPERS/MORE PISTONS
BRAKE PADS

as far as drilled, slotted, brake lines, the stupid master cylinder lock thing. brake air ducts. i've seen somewhere a guy posted all sorts of hip brake upgrades, but it only shorten the stopping distance by a few feet. But everyone agrees that the feel improves, but reliability and maintance can go either way too.

Any advice? i know the early mr2's are pretty limited to aftermarket support, im hoping some of you guys will help.

[broke]

Rotors and warping... many times it is about the metal used in the Rotors that will be the determining factor. Cheap rotors are generally made with crappy metal that warp easily. All you really need for rotors is a good set of American made rotors. I would only replace/upgrade to slotted or drilled depending on what you are doing if I had to replace my rotors.

Pads:
Low dust ceramic is all you really need.

The above are only a couple of ideas for a lower buck approch.
Are the Early MR2's Disk up front drum in the rear?

You can spend a lot of money on brakes, and not really improve stopping distance, but that two feet that you cut off may be the two most critical feet you have ever seen.

[vibebreaker]

being able to stop a few feet earlier is a good feat i think.

[Toysrme]

Bigger rotors only give more leverage if the caliper is moved outward.
The most important thing to fight brake fade is good fluid. When you push the pedal and it feels like the pads are just sliding on glass, but there is resistance. Your pads suck.
If you push the pedal and it goes to the floor. You're boiling your junk brake fluid out of the caliper. Replace it all and use a higher quality fluid.
From there, in all honesty, if you have the ability to lock tires at any speed you will see. Upgrading the brakes does nothing. The problem is avalible traction.
Drilled rotors are moronic.
Slotted rotors stop slower than blanks unless you're melting the pad face - which is not to be confused with boiling your brake fluid out, are more expencive, and SIGNIFIGNATLY decrease pad life.
Hard brake lines make a "differance" when your normal lines are completely shot.
Without even changing calipers, you could always try to find a bigger, stronger assist & master cylinder and bend your brake lines to fit.


AFA will they swap. I don't know, ask on mr2oc or mr2board. If you've not figured it out yet in the tighter communities, all the same members frequent all the same forums.
If nothing else, grab a caliper, a rotor & see for yourself. It's not that much work to take a caliper off. especially if your brakes are currently out anyways.

[Rapid Roy]

Originally Posted by mr2poweraw11

I hope someone can add to the pros and cons, no one in the mr2 forum has, but my rx7 friends have. The 85-86 rear brakes differ from 87-89, the later models i believe came with bigger rotors to reduce warping. Since my rear brakes failed, and im lazy, im looking to basically upgrade everything (brake system) while im already going to work on the car.

Here are my questions,
1.85-86 and 87-89 use the same size brake pads, so how is performance different?

I know the 87-89 discs are thicker, so more reliable? but thicker probably means heavier, which means rotating weight right? My friend also pointed out that bigger rotors means better leverage (at least in rx-7s).

2. what can i do to shorten stopping distance?

Heres a list from what i believe would help.

TIRES!
WEIGHT REDUCTION.
BIGGER CALIPERS/MORE PISTONS
BRAKE PADS

as far as drilled, slotted, brake lines, the stupid master cylinder lock thing. brake air ducts. i've seen somewhere a guy posted all sorts of hip brake upgrades, but it only shorten the stopping distance by a few feet. But everyone agrees that the feel improves, but reliability and maintance can go either way too.

Any advice? i know the early mr2's are pretty limited to aftermarket support, im hoping some of you guys will help.

The 88/89 brake are probably all you are going to need. They are way better then the earlier version. The calipers are larger too if I remember correctly. I used to drive my 88 SC really hard with no brake fade. Unless you are putting on really wide tires, you don't really need better brakes. Spend your money on suspension/wheel/tires and a stronger clutch first.

There is so much information about modifying mr2 mk1's you could read for a week. Use google and do a search. www.cardomain.com also has quite a few.