catalytic converter and oxygen sensor replacement?

"C. E. White" <cewhite3@removemindspring.com> wrote in message
news:43451a9f_2@news1.prserv.net...[color=blue]
>
> "Ray O" <rokigawa@tristarassociatesDOT.com> wrote in message
> news:2669e$43440fc7$44a4a10d$31654@msgid.meganewsservers.com...[color=green]
>>
>> <wenmang@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>> news:1128532760.374090.216610@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...[color=darkred]
>> > What if "sensor #2 is not working properly and thinks it is smelling
>> > too much pollutants in the exhaust."? Is there a way to check #2 O2
>> > sensor good or bad first before having CAT replaced? CAT replacement is
>> > so expensive, I hope that I can identify the condition of #2 O2 sensor.
>> >
>> > Thanks.
>> > WM
>> >[/color]
>>
>> To check O2 sensor operation, you will need a volt/ohm meter or
>> oscilloscope.
>>
>> Start the engine and let it warm up to operating temperature, turn
>> accessories off.
>> Run the engine to at least 2,500 RPM to heat up the O2 sensor.
>> You should get a reading that swings from less than 400 millivolts DC to
>> greater than 550 millivolts DC at least 8 times in 10 seconds. If the[/color]
> lower[color=green]
>> voltage reading is above 400 mv or the higher voltage reading is not at
>> least 550 mv then the O2 sensor is bad. If it doesn't swing back and[/color]
> forth[color=green]
>> 8 times in 10 seconds then the O2 sensor is bad.[/color]
>
>
> This is a good procedure for the O2 sensor before the catalytic converter,
> but won't work for the sensor after the catalytic converter, if the
> converter is working. The output from the sensor after the converter
> varies
> much less since, if the converter is working, there should be little or no
> unburned hydrocarbons left.
>
> Ed[/color]

You should know by now that the last couple of years, Toyota has NOT used a
conventional "O2" sensor before the catalyst. After the catalyst, same ol
O2 but the input is only used for catalyst performance tracking. The
current technology employs an exhaust sensor that operates on a different
principle and is called an Air/Fuel ratio sensor. They are NOT
interchangeable.

--

- Philip

Some early fords had 6 o2 sensors...

--
Stephen W. Hansen
ASE Certified Master Automobile Technician
ASE Undercar Specialist


[url]http://www.troublecodes.net/technical/[/url]


"Ray O" <rokigawa@tristarassociatesDOT.com> wrote in message
news:75d72$43442be0$44a4a10d$929@msgid.meganewsservers.com...[color=blue]
>
>
> "Raymond" <noemail@noemail.com> wrote in message
> news:HlV0f.49$5M5.1198@news.uswest.net...[color=green]
>> interesting how the sensors on the Pathfinder are. I found 2 sensors
>> right
>> by the engine. so those would be the two sensor #1. the two sensor #2
>> were
>> each before the CAT.
>>
>> I bought a hayned manual and it even said that the sensors were before
>> and
>> after the CAT. I did not find any sensors after the CAT. lo and behold,
>> the
>> two other sensors were right by the engine.
>>[/color]
>
> According to Bosch USA's web site, all OBD II vehicles are required to
> have an O2 sensor after the cat.
>
> I don't understand the reason for a setup with an O2 sensor right by the
> engine and another before the cat because they're measuring the same
> thing - exhaust gas before being reated by the converter.
>
> Some vehicles have converters attached to the exhaust manifolds under the
> hood and not under the vehicle, and they have a resonator that looks like
> a muffler or catalytic converter under the vehicle. It's possible that
> you were looking at a sensor in front of a resonator and not in front of
> the cat.
> --
> Ray O
> correct the return address punctuation to reply
>
>[color=green]
>> "Ray O" <rokigawa@tristarassociatesDOT.com> wrote in message
>> news:bf818$43441ef7$44a4a10d$32645@msgid.meganewsservers.com...[color=darkred]
>>>
>>> "Raymond" <noemail@noemail.com> wrote in message
>>> news:R2V0f.46$5M5.1089@news.uswest.net...
>>> > do all cars have the sensor#2 after the CAT?
>>>
>>> I have not studied every vehicle so I can't say for sure that all cars[/color]
>> have[color=darkred]
>>> sensor #2 after the cat. However, a sensor after the cat seems to be
>>> the
>>> easiest way to check the cat's function so I'd guess that most, if not
>>> all
>>> cars have 2 sensors.
>>>
>>> >
>>> > I had a problem with my wife's Nissan Pathfinder and I thought I saw[/color]
>> that[color=darkred]
>>> > bank 1 & bank 2 had sensor #2 right before the CAT.
>>>
>>> The sensor right before the cat is usually referred to as sensor #1 and[/color]
>> the[color=darkred]
>>> one after the cat is referred to as sensor #2.
>>>
>>> --
>>> Ray O
>>> correct the return address punctuation to reply
>>>
>>>[/color]
>>
>>[/color]
>
>[/color]

yes, I was probably confusing the resonator with the converter as it doesn't
make any sense for sensors #2 to be in that location if the resonators were
the CAT.

"C. E. White" <cewhite3@removemindspring.com> wrote in message
news:43451d27_2@news1.prserv.net...[color=blue]
>
> "Raymond" <noemail@noemail.com> wrote in message
> news:HlV0f.49$5M5.1198@news.uswest.net...[color=green]
> > interesting how the sensors on the Pathfinder are. I found 2 sensors[/color][/color]
right[color=blue][color=green]
> > by the engine. so those would be the two sensor #1. the two sensor #2[/color][/color]
were[color=blue][color=green]
> > each before the CAT.
> >
> > I bought a hayned manual and it even said that the sensors were before[/color][/color]
and[color=blue][color=green]
> > after the CAT. I did not find any sensors after the CAT. lo and behold,[/color]
> the[color=green]
> > two other sensors were right by the engine.[/color]
>
> Are you sure you aren't confusing resonators with the converters? I'll bet
> you have two converters very close to the exhaust manifolds and the items
> you think are converters are other elements of the exhaust system.
>
> Ed
>
>[/color]

"Ray O" <rokigawa@tristarassociatesDOT.com> wrote:
snip[color=blue]
>
>In fact, I have to break out the meter soon because our 4-tube, 2-ballast
>fluorescent kitchen light only works intermittently. I've changed all 4
>tubes and both ballasts with no effect. A friend suggested that I actually
>measure at the neutral and switched leg so I guess that is my next step.
>The kitchen previously had 2 light fixtures, I'm covering the unused box
>with the fixture and feeding the fixture from the other box. Any hints from
>Gord?[/color]

Gee no Ray, those things aren't something that I've fooled with
much...are there any 'starters' in there?, some of the older
models have a starter, a little cartridge can about half the size
of a 35 mil camera film container. Usually made of aluminum and
has two pins out one end. You 'twist to remove' them. They'd be
prime candidates for change. I haven't seen those in a while
though...if all four tubes aren't working then I'd agree that
it's likely input power troubles... probably the wall switch or
whatever controls them.

Be careful...115 VAC can fry you bigtime!...we'd miss your calm
unflappable way of doling out good advice here!...
--

-Gord.
(use gordon in email)

"Bruce L. Bergman" <blPYTHONbergman@earthlink.invalid> wrote in message
news:46a9k1dsjb9g51a6ib9qjllg6o684elgc7@4ax.com...[color=blue]
> On Wed, 05 Oct 2005 21:40:21 -0400, Scott in Florida
> <JustAsk@Florida.com> wrote:[color=green]
>>On Wed, 5 Oct 2005 14:02:48 -0500, "Ray O"
>><rokigawa@tristarassociatesDOT.com> wrote:
>>[color=darkred]
>>>In fact, I have to break out the meter soon because our 4-tube, 2-ballast
>>>fluorescent kitchen light only works intermittently. I've changed all 4
>>>tubes and both ballasts with no effect. A friend suggested that I
>>>actually
>>>measure at the neutral and switched leg so I guess that is my next step.
>>>The kitchen previously had 2 light fixtures, I'm covering the unused box
>>>with the fixture and feeding the fixture from the other box. Any hints
>>>from
>>>Gord?[/color]
>>
>>I have a similar problem and will spend some time fixing mine one of
>>these days. I really don't like messing with that crap, but I refuse
>>to pay anyone to do it for me....LOL[/color]
>
> Check your incoming voltage, and make sure nobody put a dimmer on
> those lights instead of a switch - try running a fluorescent on a
> dimmer and all sorts of insanity ensues.[/color]

I'll check the voltage at the fixture between the neutral and switched leg.
Whoever wired the house was stingy with the wire so I extended the neutral
and switched leg wires from the box to the fluorescent fixture. All I had
was 12 ga. stranded wire - should I have used solid?

There is no dimmer on the circuit, no three-way.
[color=blue]
>
> BT, DT, saw 'voltage' but nothing happened, swapped the ballast and
> the lamps twice, scratched my head going WTF? for a while... Then
> found the apartment tenant installed a black Lutron Diva dimmer that
> looks JUST like a normal Decora switch at first glance. AARGH!!
>
> (You can get fluorescent fixtures with special dimmable ballasts and
> special light dimmers to control them, but both components are
> expensive. The wiring is different, you need a third wire between
> switch and fixture for the control signal. And every time you change
> the lamps you have to remember to burn them in for 100 hours at full
> brightness first, or they don't live long.)
>
> Make sure you have a solid ground from the main panel, through the
> switch, and to both fluorescent fixture cans. If the ballast mounting
> screws are tight to the fixture can they will ground the ballast.[/color]

The fixture is not actually mounted to the electrical box - it is screwed to
the ceiling joists. I ran a 12 gauge stranded ground wire from a screw that
I attached to the metal box to the sheet metal reflector under the ballasts
to ground the fixture.

Code in the Chicago area says that all wiring has to be in conduit although
our house is older so it used the conduit as the gound instead of a separate
ground wire.

[color=blue]
>
> Fluorescents depend on a ground plane under or alongside the lamp(s)
> for a reliable start - this is why you see a ground wire alongside the
> lamps if you see a big plastic sign (gas station, etc.) with the sign
> face off, that wire is grounded to make lamp starting far easier.
> That sign might light at 80F just fine without the static wire, but
> when it is cold no ground plane usually means no start.
>
> If you have a really old house with ungrounded wiring, go run a
> ground wire from the fixture up into the attic and catch a cold water
> pipe with a grounding clamp. That might be all it takes to make them
> start first time, every time.
>[/color]

The light fixture worked for several years without a problem other than 2 of
the fixtures would occasionally go out for an hour or so and then come back
on. This only happened once or twice a year so I never bothered chasing the
problem.
[color=blue]
> And no cheap ballasts - Advance R-240-TP or other 'Commercial Duty'
> rapid-start unit, you do not want the trigger-start RL series with the
> switching lamp sockets - might as well go back to straight inductive
> ballasts with separate starters.
>
> --<< Bruce >>--
> --
> Bruce L. Bergman, Woodland Hills (Los Angeles) CA - Desktop
> Electrician for Westend Electric - CA726700
> 5737 Kanan Rd. #359, Agoura CA 91301 (818) 889-9545
> Spamtrapped address: Remove the python and the invalid, and use a net.[/color]

Advance ballasts are what came out. I think the replacements were Phillips.
Could that be the problem?

Thanks in advance!
--
Ray O
correct the return address punctuation to reply

"TeGGeR®" <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote in message
news:Xns96E74BE6CBE7Ategger@207.14.113.17...[color=blue]
> "Ray O" <rokigawa@tristarassociatesDOT.com> wrote in
> news:b29e7$4344a3e9$180fead6$18705@msgid.meganewsservers.com:
>[color=green]
>>
>> "TeGGeR®" <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote in message
>> news:Xns96E6D23956077tegger@207.14.113.17...[color=darkred]
>>> [email]wenmang@yahoo.com[/email] wrote in
>>> news:1128549604.834569.161710@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com:
>>>
>>>> it says 8yrs/80000miles on Toyota's website. My car has 139K on it,
>>>> guess it is too late.
>>>> WM
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Why don't you take the car out for a good, hard hour's run (or more)
>>> on the
>>> highway at the highest speed you can get away with? For extra load,
>>> turn your headlights on, rear defroster, air-conditioning, and any
>>> other high- load devices I haven't thought of.
>>>
>>> This will help cook off some of the crud that's impairing efficiency,
>>> and might just make that P0420 go away for a long time.
>>>
>>> --
>>> TeGGeR®
>>>[/color]
>>
>> Just run the car at highway speeds in 2nd or 3rd gear to keep the RPM
>> up. A lot less risk of a speeding ticket that way.[/color]
>
>
>
> I did not suggest that the OP exceed the posted speed limit.
>[/color]

I was just kidding about the speeding part ;-)
[color=blue]
> Loading is the important thing, not revs. You need to feed lots of hot
> gases thrugh the cat. Just running high RPM at low-load will push lots of
> air through, but not much heat.
>
> I also forgot to say that leaving your windows open will increase drag,
> and
> thus engine loading. This to be done as well as the other suggestions made
> above. This may seem like a belt-and-suspenders approach to heating up the
> cat, but the OP is probably in need of more than your usual cures.
>
> --
> TeGGeR®
>[/color]

Good advice!

By the way, my check engine light came back on. I haven't pulled the code
again but I'm betting it is the same code, and since I'm still under 80K,
it's a trip to the dealer for me.
--
Ray O
correct the return address punctuation to reply

"Scott in Florida" <JustAsk@Florida.com> wrote in message
news:rq4ak19igkv428lisbrbm1kt3dff79k3tb@4ax.com...[color=blue]
> On Wed, 5 Oct 2005 23:04:27 -0500, "Ray O"
> <rokigawa@tristarassociatesDOT.com> wrote:
>[color=green]
>>
>>"Scott in Florida" <JustAsk@Florida.com> wrote in message
>>news:6009k15222pjkitll5ugmg11jn5mrdeii5@4ax.com...[color=darkred]
>>> On Wed, 5 Oct 2005 14:02:48 -0500, "Ray O"
>>> <rokigawa@tristarassociatesDOT.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>>In fact, I have to break out the meter soon because our 4-tube,
>>>>2-ballast
>>>>fluorescent kitchen light only works intermittently. I've changed all 4
>>>>tubes and both ballasts with no effect. A friend suggested that I
>>>>actually
>>>>measure at the neutral and switched leg so I guess that is my next step.
>>>>The kitchen previously had 2 light fixtures, I'm covering the unused box
>>>>with the fixture and feeding the fixture from the other box. Any hints
>>>>from
>>>>Gord?
>>>
>>> I have a similar problem and will spend some time fixing mine one of
>>> these days. I really don't like messing with that crap, but I refuse
>>> to pay anyone to do it for me....LOL
>>>
>>> --
>>>
>>> Scott in Florida[/color]
>>
>>Let me know if you figure it out![/color]
>
> I have a similar setup in my kitchen....
>
> ....and mine won't light sometimes.....
>
> I think you will find it to be something to do with the three way
> switches.
>
> Every once in awhile one switch won't work....so I go to the other and
> change it and all is well for a long time.
>
> My house was a model way back when it was built and the light switches
> are small buttons (not toggle, but push) that are not made anymore. I
> kinda like them....so have resisted changing them.
>
> Switches may very well be your problem...
>
> --
>
> Scott in Florida[/color]

Switches could be the problem although we don't have a 3-way in the kitchen,
just one of those "decorator" wide rocker-type switches.
--
Ray O
correct the return address punctuation to reply

"Gord Beaman" <gord@islandtelecom.com> wrote in message
news:8l7bk1ltu9v68l3vmrcr3ji6nl9487nbj9@4ax.com...[color=blue]
> "Ray O" <rokigawa@tristarassociatesDOT.com> wrote:
> snip[color=green]
>>
>>In fact, I have to break out the meter soon because our 4-tube, 2-ballast
>>fluorescent kitchen light only works intermittently. I've changed all 4
>>tubes and both ballasts with no effect. A friend suggested that I
>>actually
>>measure at the neutral and switched leg so I guess that is my next step.
>>The kitchen previously had 2 light fixtures, I'm covering the unused box
>>with the fixture and feeding the fixture from the other box. Any hints
>>from
>>Gord?[/color]
>
> Gee no Ray, those things aren't something that I've fooled with
> much...are there any 'starters' in there?, some of the older
> models have a starter, a little cartridge can about half the size
> of a 35 mil camera film container. Usually made of aluminum and
> has two pins out one end. You 'twist to remove' them. They'd be
> prime candidates for change. I haven't seen those in a while
> though...if all four tubes aren't working then I'd agree that
> it's likely input power troubles... probably the wall switch or
> whatever controls them.
>[/color]

Gord,

Thanks for the advice. For some reasons I thought you were an electrician.
I think I got you and Bruce mixed up. This fixture doesn't have starters,
it is only 2 or 3 years old.
[color=blue]
> Be careful...115 VAC can fry you bigtime!...we'd miss your calm
> unflappable way of doling out good advice here!...
> --
>
> -Gord.
> (use gordon in email)[/color]

I've been bit by household current a few times, and it definitely got my
attention. I grew up in an apartment building that I think was built around
the turn of the century. It had small doors by the back entrances for the
ice man to deliver ice, it had speaker tubes from the front vestibule to
each apartment, and there are gas pipes for lighting in the ceiling in every
room that were converted to hold electrical light fixtures. When we moved
in, the ceiling lights were controlled by a switch that hung on the end of
cloth-covered wires that hung from the light fixture. You'd know the
switches were bad when you got a buzz when you went to switch the light on
or off.
--
Ray O
correct the return address punctuation to reply

"Ray O" <rokigawa@tristarassociatesDOT.com> wrote in message
news:4f4cd$4344a3e6$180fead6$18705@msgid.meganewsservers.com...
[color=blue]
> I think of Harbor Freight as more of a place for "disposable" tools and
> materials, like abrasive wheels for my cut-off tool, hammers to bring on
> campouts to drive tent stakes (the kids lose at least 1 a year so a $2
> hammer is a lot less painful to lose than a $40 Estwing). I also buy
> leather gloves there to lend to people when I take people rappelling[/color]
because[color=blue]
> a dozen pairs of rappelling gloves would cost $400. They do have some[/color]
name[color=blue]
> brand stuff for good prices, like my Ingersoll-Rand angle die grinder.
> --[/color]
isn't a wrench a wrench no matter what brand it is?

"Raymond" <noemail@noemail.com> wrote:
[color=blue]
>
>"Ray O" <rokigawa@tristarassociatesDOT.com> wrote in message
>news:4f4cd$4344a3e6$180fead6$18705@msgid.meganewsservers.com...
>[color=green]
>> I think of Harbor Freight as more of a place for "disposable" tools and
>> materials, like abrasive wheels for my cut-off tool, hammers to bring on
>> campouts to drive tent stakes (the kids lose at least 1 a year so a $2
>> hammer is a lot less painful to lose than a $40 Estwing). I also buy
>> leather gloves there to lend to people when I take people rappelling[/color]
>because[color=green]
>> a dozen pairs of rappelling gloves would cost $400. They do have some[/color]
>name[color=green]
>> brand stuff for good prices, like my Ingersoll-Rand angle die grinder.
>> --[/color]
>isn't a wrench a wrench no matter what brand it is?
>[/color]
Most GD assuredly not... :(
--

-Gord.
(use gordon in email)

"Ray O" <rokigawa@tristarassociatesDOT.com> wrote:
[color=blue]
>
>Switches could be the problem although we don't have a 3-way in the kitchen,
>just one of those "decorator" wide rocker-type switches.[/color]

Does snapping the switch several times sometimes get it working?.

I'm with Scott here...I'll bet it's the switch.
--

-Gord.
(use gordon in email)

"Gord Beaman" <gord@islandtelecom.com> wrote in message
news:em1dk19oi9ojaaa1fn779idll9j2vdln6o@4ax.com...[color=blue]
> "Ray O" <rokigawa@tristarassociatesDOT.com> wrote:
>[color=green]
>>
>>Switches could be the problem although we don't have a 3-way in the
>>kitchen,
>>just one of those "decorator" wide rocker-type switches.[/color]
>
> Does snapping the switch several times sometimes get it working?.
>
> I'm with Scott here...I'll bet it's the switch.
> --
>
> -Gord.
> (use gordon in email)[/color]

Come to think of it, yes! Switches are pretty inexpensive. - maybe I'll
swap it out and see what happens.
--
Ray O
correct the return address punctuation to reply

"Raymond" <noemail@noemail.com> wrote in message
news:V%t1f.1$F06.178@news.uswest.net...[color=blue]
>
> "Ray O" <rokigawa@tristarassociatesDOT.com> wrote in message
> news:4f4cd$4344a3e6$180fead6$18705@msgid.meganewsservers.com...
>[color=green]
>> I think of Harbor Freight as more of a place for "disposable" tools and
>> materials, like abrasive wheels for my cut-off tool, hammers to bring on
>> campouts to drive tent stakes (the kids lose at least 1 a year so a $2
>> hammer is a lot less painful to lose than a $40 Estwing). I also buy
>> leather gloves there to lend to people when I take people rappelling[/color]
> because[color=green]
>> a dozen pairs of rappelling gloves would cost $400. They do have some[/color]
> name[color=green]
>> brand stuff for good prices, like my Ingersoll-Rand angle die grinder.
>> --[/color]
> isn't a wrench a wrench no matter what brand it is?
>[/color]
Absolutely not! A cheap wrench may chew up the head on a bolt because it
doesn't contact it properly or the wrench will become deformed or crack over
time or when working on a stubborn bolt. On ones with a chrome finish, the
chrome peels or flakes off, and then it doesn't contact the bolt head
properly. The last think I want to deal with in the middle of a project
is having to go buy another wrench because the one I was using became
unusable. A quality wrench will feel good in your hand and the angle of the
head will make it easier to use. Cheap sockets will wobble or be hard to
push on the driver or it will fall off. I have some 12 point sockets but
don't use them because they are much more likely to round off the head on a
bolt so I stick to 6 point whenever possible. Also, cheap tools do not have
a lifetime warranty or it is hard to get them replaced.

On a quality ratchet like a Snap-On, there is no slop in the ratcheting
mechanism so starting a bolt in a hard-to-reach place is a lot easier. I
have fine-tooth ratchets so the teeth will engage with very little swing -
very handy in a tight place. The chrome still shines after decades of use
and the ratcheting mechanism is replaceable when it becomes worn. My dad
has 50 year-old Snap-On tools that are in perfect condition.

IMO, Snap-On, Mac, and Matco make the best wrenches, sockets, and ratchets,
then S-K and Craftsman. Craftsman has come a long ways in the quality of
their tools and I have quite a few of their sockets. To me, Stanley tools
are cheap tools with a name-brand, other than their tape measures. I use
wrenches, sockets, ratchets, and screwdrivers a lot so for me, it is worth
the investment to buy quality.
--
Ray O
correct the return address punctuation to reply

so oxygen sensors are part of the 8yr/80000 warranty?

"Ray O" <rokigawa@tristarassociatesDOT.com> wrote in message
news:ef023$4345fa6e$180fead6$5657@msgid.meganewsservers.com...[color=blue]
>
> "TeGGeR®" <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote in message
> news:Xns96E74BE6CBE7Ategger@207.14.113.17...[color=green]
> > "Ray O" <rokigawa@tristarassociatesDOT.com> wrote in
> > news:b29e7$4344a3e9$180fead6$18705@msgid.meganewsservers.com:
> >[color=darkred]
> >>
> >> "TeGGeR®" <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote in message
> >> news:Xns96E6D23956077tegger@207.14.113.17...
> >>> [email]wenmang@yahoo.com[/email] wrote in
> >>> news:1128549604.834569.161710@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com:
> >>>
> >>>> it says 8yrs/80000miles on Toyota's website. My car has 139K on it,
> >>>> guess it is too late.
> >>>> WM
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> Why don't you take the car out for a good, hard hour's run (or more)
> >>> on the
> >>> highway at the highest speed you can get away with? For extra load,
> >>> turn your headlights on, rear defroster, air-conditioning, and any
> >>> other high- load devices I haven't thought of.
> >>>
> >>> This will help cook off some of the crud that's impairing efficiency,
> >>> and might just make that P0420 go away for a long time.
> >>>
> >>> --
> >>> TeGGeR®
> >>>
> >>
> >> Just run the car at highway speeds in 2nd or 3rd gear to keep the RPM
> >> up. A lot less risk of a speeding ticket that way.[/color]
> >
> >
> >
> > I did not suggest that the OP exceed the posted speed limit.
> >[/color]
>
> I was just kidding about the speeding part ;-)
>[color=green]
> > Loading is the important thing, not revs. You need to feed lots of hot
> > gases thrugh the cat. Just running high RPM at low-load will push lots[/color][/color]
of[color=blue][color=green]
> > air through, but not much heat.
> >
> > I also forgot to say that leaving your windows open will increase drag,
> > and
> > thus engine loading. This to be done as well as the other suggestions[/color][/color]
made[color=blue][color=green]
> > above. This may seem like a belt-and-suspenders approach to heating up[/color][/color]
the[color=blue][color=green]
> > cat, but the OP is probably in need of more than your usual cures.
> >
> > --
> > TeGGeR®
> >[/color]
>
> Good advice!
>
> By the way, my check engine light came back on. I haven't pulled the code
> again but I'm betting it is the same code, and since I'm still under 80K,
> it's a trip to the dealer for me.
> --
> Ray O
> correct the return address punctuation to reply
>
>[/color]

"Raymond" <noemail@noemail.com> wrote in message
news:LxF1f.71$F06.884@news.uswest.net...[color=blue]
> so oxygen sensors are part of the 8yr/80000 warranty?
>[/color]

It is if it causes the car to fail an emissions test.

--
Ray O
correct the return address punctuation to reply
[color=blue]
> "Ray O" <rokigawa@tristarassociatesDOT.com> wrote in message
> news:ef023$4345fa6e$180fead6$5657@msgid.meganewsservers.com...[color=green]
>>
>> "TeGGeR®" <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote in message
>> news:Xns96E74BE6CBE7Ategger@207.14.113.17...[color=darkred]
>> > "Ray O" <rokigawa@tristarassociatesDOT.com> wrote in
>> > news:b29e7$4344a3e9$180fead6$18705@msgid.meganewsservers.com:
>> >
>> >>
>> >> "TeGGeR®" <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote in message
>> >> news:Xns96E6D23956077tegger@207.14.113.17...
>> >>> [email]wenmang@yahoo.com[/email] wrote in
>> >>> news:1128549604.834569.161710@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com:
>> >>>
>> >>>> it says 8yrs/80000miles on Toyota's website. My car has 139K on it,
>> >>>> guess it is too late.
>> >>>> WM
>> >>>>
>> >>>>
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>> Why don't you take the car out for a good, hard hour's run (or more)
>> >>> on the
>> >>> highway at the highest speed you can get away with? For extra load,
>> >>> turn your headlights on, rear defroster, air-conditioning, and any
>> >>> other high- load devices I haven't thought of.
>> >>>
>> >>> This will help cook off some of the crud that's impairing efficiency,
>> >>> and might just make that P0420 go away for a long time.
>> >>>
>> >>> --
>> >>> TeGGeR®
>> >>>
>> >>
>> >> Just run the car at highway speeds in 2nd or 3rd gear to keep the RPM
>> >> up. A lot less risk of a speeding ticket that way.
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > I did not suggest that the OP exceed the posted speed limit.
>> >[/color]
>>
>> I was just kidding about the speeding part ;-)
>>[color=darkred]
>> > Loading is the important thing, not revs. You need to feed lots of hot
>> > gases thrugh the cat. Just running high RPM at low-load will push lots[/color][/color]
> of[color=green][color=darkred]
>> > air through, but not much heat.
>> >
>> > I also forgot to say that leaving your windows open will increase drag,
>> > and
>> > thus engine loading. This to be done as well as the other suggestions[/color][/color]
> made[color=green][color=darkred]
>> > above. This may seem like a belt-and-suspenders approach to heating up[/color][/color]
> the[color=green][color=darkred]
>> > cat, but the OP is probably in need of more than your usual cures.
>> >
>> > --
>> > TeGGeR®
>> >[/color]
>>
>> Good advice!
>>
>> By the way, my check engine light came back on. I haven't pulled the
>> code
>> again but I'm betting it is the same code, and since I'm still under 80K,
>> it's a trip to the dealer for me.
>> --
>> Ray O
>> correct the return address punctuation to reply
>>
>>[/color]
>
>[/color]