Hi, Toyota 4runner '93; just changed water pump; has a fairly new radiator,
but water still going down over a few days of driving. I don't see any sign
of water in head-oil on an inspection of filler cap area, maybe I need to
open it up to have a better look? Any suggestions on where else to look for
hard to find leaks?
Thanks
req
"reqluq" <scredcropshonnospam@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:11oac58mo7d4k54@corp.supernews.com...[color=blue]
>
> Hi, Toyota 4runner '93; just changed water pump; has a fairly new
> radiator, but water still going down over a few days of driving. I don't
> see any sign of water in head-oil on an inspection of filler cap area,
> maybe I need to open it up to have a better look? Any suggestions on where
> else to look for hard to find leaks?[/color]
Did you have a leak before you changed the water pump? If not, most likely
you have a leak because the installation of the new water pump is not just
right. You probably have a small leak, and you are only losing steam through
the leak after the engine heats up. Look for a white residue around the hose
connections and the gasket surface of the water pump. It is also possible
the pump is bad and you are leaking out through the pump seal. The weep hole
is likely to be hard to see, so you might have to examine it with a mirror.
It is also possible you did not get all the air out of the system after you
installed the water pump, and the water level is just going down as you work
the air out of the system.
You could always add some Bars Leak to the system. Many manufacturers
actually include it in the car from the factory to handle weeps like you
have (see [url]http://www.quasimotors.com/about_bar1.htm[/url] And
[url]http://www.barsproducts.com/faq.cfm#Radiator[/url] ).
"C. E. White" <cewhite@mindspring.com> wrote in message
news:sTahf.4812$N45.1883@newsread1.news.atl.earthlink.net...[color=blue]
>
> "reqluq" <scredcropshonnospam@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:11oac58mo7d4k54@corp.supernews.com...[color=green]
>>
>> Hi, Toyota 4runner '93; just changed water pump; has a fairly new
>> radiator, but water still going down over a few days of driving. I don't
>> see any sign of water in head-oil on an inspection of filler cap area,
>> maybe I need to open it up to have a better look? Any suggestions on
>> where else to look for hard to find leaks?[/color]
>
> Did you have a leak before you changed the water pump? If not, most likely
> you have a leak because the installation of the new water pump is not just
> right. You probably have a small leak, and you are only losing steam
> through the leak after the engine heats up. Look for a white residue
> around the hose connections and the gasket surface of the water pump. It
> is also possible the pump is bad and you are leaking out through the pump
> seal. The weep hole is likely to be hard to see, so you might have to
> examine it with a mirror.
>
> It is also possible you did not get all the air out of the system after
> you installed the water pump, and the water level is just going down as
> you work the air out of the system.
>
> You could always add some Bars Leak to the system. Many manufacturers
> actually include it in the car from the factory to handle weeps like you
> have (see [url]http://www.quasimotors.com/about_bar1.htm[/url] And
> [url]http://www.barsproducts.com/faq.cfm#Radiator[/url] ).
>
> Regards,
>
> Ed White[/color]
IMO, all good advice except for the Bars Leak. I am not a fan of any "stop
leak" additives unless you are in dire straits or the vehicle is on its last
leg. Any air in the system due to a leak could cause the stop leak stuff to
solidify, clogging the internal workings of the cooling system, radiator, or
heater core.
A common mistake when refilling the coolant is leaving the heater closed,
causing a large air pocket that gradually fills, lowering the apparent
coolant level. make sure the heater is set to full hot position when
refilling.
The OP mentions water instead of coolant. Water has a lower boiling point
than coolant and so hot water engering the overflow bottle could evaporate
more quickly.
Also look for white steam coming out the tailpipe, a sign of an internal
coolant leak like a head gasket or cracked block.
--
Ray O
correct the return address punctuation to reply
On Wed, 23 Nov 2005 22:34:26 -0600, "Ray O"
<rokigawa@tristarassociatesDOT.com> wrote:
[color=blue]
>
>"C. E. White" <cewhite@mindspring.com> wrote in message
>news:sTahf.4812$N45.1883@newsread1.news.atl.earthlink.net...[color=green]
>>
>> "reqluq" <scredcropshonnospam@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>> news:11oac58mo7d4k54@corp.supernews.com...[color=darkred]
>>>
>>> Hi, Toyota 4runner '93; just changed water pump; has a fairly new
>>> radiator, but water still going down over a few days of driving. I don't
>>> see any sign of water in head-oil on an inspection of filler cap area,
>>> maybe I need to open it up to have a better look? Any suggestions on
>>> where else to look for hard to find leaks?[/color]
>>
>> Did you have a leak before you changed the water pump? If not, most likely
>> you have a leak because the installation of the new water pump is not just
>> right. You probably have a small leak, and you are only losing steam
>> through the leak after the engine heats up. Look for a white residue
>> around the hose connections and the gasket surface of the water pump. It
>> is also possible the pump is bad and you are leaking out through the pump
>> seal. The weep hole is likely to be hard to see, so you might have to
>> examine it with a mirror.
>>
>> It is also possible you did not get all the air out of the system after
>> you installed the water pump, and the water level is just going down as
>> you work the air out of the system.
>>
>> You could always add some Bars Leak to the system. Many manufacturers
>> actually include it in the car from the factory to handle weeps like you
>> have (see [url]http://www.quasimotors.com/about_bar1.htm[/url] And
>> [url]http://www.barsproducts.com/faq.cfm#Radiator[/url] ).
>>
>> Regards,
>>
>> Ed White[/color]
>IMO, all good advice except for the Bars Leak. I am not a fan of any "stop
>leak" additives unless you are in dire straits or the vehicle is on its last
>leg. Any air in the system due to a leak could cause the stop leak stuff to
>solidify, clogging the internal workings of the cooling system, radiator, or
>heater core.
>
>A common mistake when refilling the coolant is leaving the heater closed,
>causing a large air pocket that gradually fills, lowering the apparent
>coolant level. make sure the heater is set to full hot position when
>refilling.
>
>The OP mentions water instead of coolant. Water has a lower boiling point
>than coolant and so hot water engering the overflow bottle could evaporate
>more quickly.
>
>Also look for white steam coming out the tailpipe, a sign of an internal
>coolant leak like a head gasket or cracked block.[/color]
All good advice but start by replacing the radiator cap.
I used to stay away from Bars Leak also, until I found out many manufacters
ship it in new cars. I don't know if Toyota does, bu Nissan and GM do.
Ed
"Ray O" <rokigawa@tristarassociatesDOT.com> wrote in message
news:443ee$4385459d$180fead6$20993@msgid.meganewsservers.com...[color=blue]
>
> "C. E. White" <cewhite@mindspring.com> wrote in message
> news:sTahf.4812$N45.1883@newsread1.news.atl.earthlink.net...[color=green]
>>
>> "reqluq" <scredcropshonnospam@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>> news:11oac58mo7d4k54@corp.supernews.com...[color=darkred]
>>>
>>> Hi, Toyota 4runner '93; just changed water pump; has a fairly new
>>> radiator, but water still going down over a few days of driving. I don't
>>> see any sign of water in head-oil on an inspection of filler cap area,
>>> maybe I need to open it up to have a better look? Any suggestions on
>>> where else to look for hard to find leaks?[/color]
>>
>> Did you have a leak before you changed the water pump? If not, most
>> likely
>> you have a leak because the installation of the new water pump is not
>> just
>> right. You probably have a small leak, and you are only losing steam
>> through the leak after the engine heats up. Look for a white residue
>> around the hose connections and the gasket surface of the water pump. It
>> is also possible the pump is bad and you are leaking out through the pump
>> seal. The weep hole is likely to be hard to see, so you might have to
>> examine it with a mirror.
>>
>> It is also possible you did not get all the air out of the system after
>> you installed the water pump, and the water level is just going down as
>> you work the air out of the system.
>>
>> You could always add some Bars Leak to the system. Many manufacturers
>> actually include it in the car from the factory to handle weeps like you
>> have (see [url]http://www.quasimotors.com/about_bar1.htm[/url] And
>> [url]http://www.barsproducts.com/faq.cfm#Radiator[/url] ).
>>
>> Regards,
>>
>> Ed White[/color]
> IMO, all good advice except for the Bars Leak. I am not a fan of any
> "stop
> leak" additives unless you are in dire straits or the vehicle is on its
> last
> leg. Any air in the system due to a leak could cause the stop leak stuff
> to
> solidify, clogging the internal workings of the cooling system, radiator,
> or
> heater core.
>
> A common mistake when refilling the coolant is leaving the heater closed,
> causing a large air pocket that gradually fills, lowering the apparent
> coolant level. make sure the heater is set to full hot position when
> refilling.
>
> The OP mentions water instead of coolant. Water has a lower boiling point
> than coolant and so hot water engering the overflow bottle could evaporate
> more quickly.
>
> Also look for white steam coming out the tailpipe, a sign of an internal
> coolant leak like a head gasket or cracked block.
> --
> Ray O
> correct the return address punctuation to reply
>
>
>[/color]
"C. E. White" <cewhite@mindspring.com> wrote in message
news:eQkhf.3100$aA2.937@newsread2.news.atl.earthlink.net...[color=blue]
>I used to stay away from Bars Leak also, until I found out many manufacters
>ship it in new cars. I don't know if Toyota does, bu Nissan and GM do.
>
> Ed
>[/color]
Are Nissan and GM expecting their new vehicles to leak? ;-)
--
Ray O
correct the return address punctuation to reply
"C. E. White" <cewhite@mindspring.com> wrote in message
news:sTahf.4812$N45.1883@newsread1.news.atl.earthlink.net...[color=blue]
>
>
> "reqluq" <scredcropshonnospam@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:11oac58mo7d4k54@corp.supernews.com...[color=green]
>>
>> Hi, Toyota 4runner '93; just changed water pump; has a fairly new
>> radiator, but water still going down over a few days of driving. I don't
>> see any sign of water in head-oil on an inspection of filler cap area,
>> maybe I need to open it up to have a better look? Any suggestions on
>> where else to look for hard to find leaks?
>> Did you have a leak before you changed the water pump? > Regards,[/color]
> Ed White[/color]
Thanks for the responses; yes I did have a leak before and we were assuming
it was the fault of the pump because of all the residue around it. It was
ood we changed it ecause it was in bad shape. I'll keep looking
req
I had a cracked head once that had the crack between the water galley and an
exhaust port. The coolant leaked directly into the exhaust stream. The leak
was very slight, and I never saw steam coming out the back, but one day --
just by chance -- the motor was parked with the valve open, and the cylinder
filled with coolant and hydrolocked when I tried to start the car the next
morning. I pulled the plugs and a cup or so of coolant came flying out when
I turned the motor over by hand.
"reqluq" <scredcropshonnospam@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:11oac58mo7d4k54@corp.supernews.com...[color=blue]
>
> Hi, Toyota 4runner '93; just changed water pump; has a fairly new
> radiator, but water still going down over a few days of driving. I don't
> see any sign of water in head-oil on an inspection of filler cap area,
> maybe I need to open it up to have a better look? Any suggestions on where
> else to look for hard to find leaks?
> Thanks
> req
>
>[/color]
"Ray O" <rokigawa@tristarassociatesDOT.com> wrote in message
news:c5f74$43860ee4$180fead6$26605@msgid.meganewsservers.com...[color=blue]
>
> "C. E. White" <cewhite@mindspring.com> wrote in message
> news:eQkhf.3100$aA2.937@newsread2.news.atl.earthlink.net...[color=green]
>>I used to stay away from Bars Leak also, until I found out many
>>manufacters ship it in new cars. I don't know if Toyota does, bu Nissan
>>and GM do.
>>
>> Ed
>>[/color]
>
> Are Nissan and GM expecting their new vehicles to leak? ;-)[/color]
Ray O wrote:
[color=blue]
> "C. E. White" <cewhite@mindspring.com> wrote in message
> news:eQkhf.3100$aA2.937@newsread2.news.atl.earthlink.net...
>[color=green]
>>I used to stay away from Bars Leak also, until I found out many manufacters
>>ship it in new cars. I don't know if Toyota does, bu Nissan and GM do.
>>
>>Ed
>>
>>[/color]
>
> Are Nissan and GM expecting their new vehicles to leak? ;-)
>[/color]
GM expects their new engine to burn oil, leak coolant, throw timing
belts, crack blocks and have electrical failures. And you wonder why
they have to give $15,000 off a Tahoe and $3,000 off a G6 to get you to
buy one.
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