Subframe -> body bushes

Is there a way of determining if these need replacing? I could just go with
my instint and get them but the 6 of them together come in at approximately
600USD. This, in my opinion, is rediculous for 6 rubber and metal cylinders.
They're rusty and they do allow flex, but they are designed to do that, its
jsut to what degree is considered dead?!

Any ideas welcome,
James

"Coyoteboy" <coyoteboyuk@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:dukt7f$180$1@nwrdmz03.dmz.ncs.ea.ibs-infra.bt.com...[color=blue]
> Is there a way of determining if these need replacing? I could just go
> with my instint and get them but the 6 of them together come in at
> approximately 600USD. This, in my opinion, is rediculous for 6 rubber and
> metal cylinders. They're rusty and they do allow flex, but they are
> designed to do that, its jsut to what degree is considered dead?!
>
> Any ideas welcome,
> James
>[/color]

As long as there is no play between the subframe and the body, I wouldn't
bother changing the bushings.
--

Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)

[color=blue]
>
> As long as there is no play between the subframe and the body, I wouldn't
> bother changing the bushings.
> --
>
> Ray O
> (correct punctuation to reply)[/color]

I've decided to get two of the six and replace the two that are the most
'sloppy'. That way I get to correct what looks like an issue and then have
something to compare the others with. Theres some minimal play (jack the car
on and off the wheel and you see slight movement) so I'll give it a shot.
They are16 years old lol.

Ta,
J

"Coyoteboy" <coyoteboyuk@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:dumhjv$32c$1@nwrdmz01.dmz.ncs.ea.ibs-infra.bt.com...[color=blue]
>[color=green]
>>
>> As long as there is no play between the subframe and the body, I wouldn't
>> bother changing the bushings.
>> --
>>
>> Ray O
>> (correct punctuation to reply)[/color]
>
> I've decided to get two of the six and replace the two that are the most
> 'sloppy'. That way I get to correct what looks like an issue and then have
> something to compare the others with. Theres some minimal play (jack the
> car on and off the wheel and you see slight movement) so I'll give it a
> shot. They are16 years old lol.
>
> Ta,
> J[/color]
Good luck with the project!
--

Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)

> Good luck with the project![color=blue]
> --
>
> Ray O
> (correct punctuation to reply)[/color]

Thanks Ray,

Brief overview of the work ive done so far!

[url]http://www.jbuckle.homeip.net/images/car/repair.htm[/url]

Cheers,
James

"Coyoteboy" <coyoteboyuk@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:dv4aag$7ls$1@nwrdmz03.dmz.ncs.ea.ibs-infra.bt.com...[color=blue][color=green]
>> Good luck with the project!
>> --
>>
>> Ray O
>> (correct punctuation to reply)[/color]
>
> Thanks Ray,
>
> Brief overview of the work ive done so far!
>
> [url]http://www.jbuckle.homeip.net/images/car/repair.htm[/url]
>
> Cheers,
> James
>[/color]

Great pictures!

When you first posted the question, so replacing the bushings ("Bushes" in
the U.K.?) sounded like a lot of work because I didn't realize that you had
the car apart already.

In the U.S., Ford dealers sell a suspension bushing lubricant. It comes in
a squeeze tube, is transparent, and has the consistency of tar. I believe
it is a silicone lubricant. This stuff is very effective and might be
useful where the bushing contacts metal to stop squeaks and slow down rust
from abrasion. The stuff works very well, I used to use it on squeaky rear
sway bar bushings on Camrys.
--

Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)