Mice in heater blower

I recently had my blower disassembled to remove a nest that was causing
vibration (2001 Prism). How do mice get in? The air intake (under the
wipers) has a fine screen (although there appears to be a small opening
on the extreme left side). Is there a drain hose under the car to allow
water to drain out and is it large enough for a small mouse to go up? I
would like to prevent this from happening again.


---MIKE---[color=blue][color=green]
>>In the White Mountains of New Hampshire
>> (44° 15' N - Elevation 1580')[/color][/color]

"---MIKE---" <twinmountain@webtv.net> wrote in message
news:18781-44136025-585@storefull-3252.bay.webtv.net...
I recently had my blower disassembled to remove a nest that was causing
vibration (2001 Prism). How do mice get in? The air intake (under the
wipers) has a fine screen (although there appears to be a small opening
on the extreme left side). Is there a drain hose under the car to allow
water to drain out and is it large enough for a small mouse to go up? I
would like to prevent this from happening again.

---MIKE---[color=blue][color=green]
>>In the White Mountains of New Hampshire
>> (44° 15' N - Elevation 1580')[/color][/color]

Can't help you with your main question, but when we lived in NH, placing
warfarin feeders every few months or so kept the rodents away.

Natalie, 1 year resident of Colebrook, NH; 10 year resident of Claremont,
NH

"---MIKE---" <twinmountain@webtv.net> wrote in message
news:18781-44136025-585@storefull-3252.bay.webtv.net...
I recently had my blower disassembled to remove a nest that was causing
vibration (2001 Prism). How do mice get in? The air intake (under the
wipers) has a fine screen (although there appears to be a small opening
on the extreme left side). Is there a drain hose under the car to allow
water to drain out and is it large enough for a small mouse to go up? I
would like to prevent this from happening again.


---MIKE---[color=blue][color=green]
>>In the White Mountains of New Hampshire
>> (44° 15' N - Elevation 1580')[/color][/color]

There is a drain hose under the passenger side of the car to allow water to
drain out. I believe it is a little larger than an engine vacuum hose.
Whether it is large enough for a small mouse to go up depends on the size of
the mouse. If you can get at the interior end of the hose, pass a coat
hanger through the hose and secure it on the interior so that water can
still drain out while keeping mice out.
--

Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)

On Sun, 12 Mar 2006 02:22:40 -0600, "Ray O"
<rokigawa@tristarassociatesDOTcomn> wrote:[color=blue]
>"---MIKE---" <twinmountain@webtv.net> wrote in message
>news:18781-44136025-585@storefull-3252.bay.webtv.net...[/color]
[color=blue][color=green]
>>I recently had my blower disassembled to remove a nest that was causing
>>vibration (2001 Prism). How do mice get in? The air intake (under the
>>wipers) has a fine screen (although there appears to be a small opening
>>on the extreme left side). Is there a drain hose under the car to allow
>>water to drain out and is it large enough for a small mouse to go up? I
>>would like to prevent this from happening again.[/color]
>
>There is a drain hose under the passenger side of the car to allow water to
>drain out. I believe it is a little larger than an engine vacuum hose.
>Whether it is large enough for a small mouse to go up depends on the size of
>the mouse. If you can get at the interior end of the hose, pass a coat
>hanger through the hose and secure it on the interior so that water can
>still drain out while keeping mice out.[/color]

Use brazing rod, or copper wire. Coat hangers are steel, and if you
leave it in a wet environment long term you'll end up with a hose full
of rust.

And to save the "But" posts, copper can deteriorate too, but it'll
take the presence of chemicals you aren't going to normally find in an
air conditioner. Don't let the brass/copper wire touch the AC
condenser coil or heater core inside the heater box (aluminum) or the
body outside (steel), or you could get dissimilar metal electrolysis.

--<< Bruce >>--

--
Bruce L. Bergman, Woodland Hills (Los Angeles) CA - Desktop
Electrician for Westend Electric - CA726700
5737 Kanan Rd. #359, Agoura CA 91301 (818) 889-9545
Spamtrapped address: Remove the python and the invalid, and use a net.

"Bruce L. Bergman" <blPYTHONbergman@earthlink.invalid> wrote in message
news:del8129jbog8fdpps8po984n5v914hirsa@4ax.com...[color=blue]
> On Sun, 12 Mar 2006 02:22:40 -0600, "Ray O"
> <rokigawa@tristarassociatesDOTcomn> wrote:[color=green]
>>"---MIKE---" <twinmountain@webtv.net> wrote in message
>>news:18781-44136025-585@storefull-3252.bay.webtv.net...[/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
>>>I recently had my blower disassembled to remove a nest that was causing
>>>vibration (2001 Prism). How do mice get in? The air intake (under the
>>>wipers) has a fine screen (although there appears to be a small opening
>>>on the extreme left side). Is there a drain hose under the car to allow
>>>water to drain out and is it large enough for a small mouse to go up? I
>>>would like to prevent this from happening again.[/color]
>>
>>There is a drain hose under the passenger side of the car to allow water
>>to
>>drain out. I believe it is a little larger than an engine vacuum hose.
>>Whether it is large enough for a small mouse to go up depends on the size
>>of
>>the mouse. If you can get at the interior end of the hose, pass a coat
>>hanger through the hose and secure it on the interior so that water can
>>still drain out while keeping mice out.[/color]
>
> Use brazing rod, or copper wire. Coat hangers are steel, and if you
> leave it in a wet environment long term you'll end up with a hose full
> of rust.
>
> And to save the "But" posts, copper can deteriorate too, but it'll
> take the presence of chemicals you aren't going to normally find in an
> air conditioner. Don't let the brass/copper wire touch the AC
> condenser coil or heater core inside the heater box (aluminum) or the
> body outside (steel), or you could get dissimilar metal electrolysis.
>
> --<< Bruce >>--
>
> --
> Bruce L. Bergman, Woodland Hills (Los Angeles) CA - Desktop
> Electrician for Westend Electric - CA726700
> 5737 Kanan Rd. #359, Agoura CA 91301 (818) 889-9545
> Spamtrapped address: Remove the python and the invalid, and use a net.[/color]

Great advice Bruce!
--

Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)

On Sun, 12 Mar 2006 17:56:43 -0600, "Ray O"
<rokigawa@tristarassociatesDOTcomn> wrote:
[color=blue]
>
>"Bruce L. Bergman" <blPYTHONbergman@earthlink.invalid> wrote in message
>news:del8129jbog8fdpps8po984n5v914hirsa@4ax.com...[color=green]
>> On Sun, 12 Mar 2006 02:22:40 -0600, "Ray O"
>> <rokigawa@tristarassociatesDOTcomn> wrote:[color=darkred]
>>>"---MIKE---" <twinmountain@webtv.net> wrote in message
>>>news:18781-44136025-585@storefull-3252.bay.webtv.net...[/color][/color][/color]
[color=blue]
>Great advice Bruce![/color]

Ray, it was your idea as a hole-blocker - I just spotted the fatal
flaw and showed a way around it. That's why they invented "Plan B".

Not that I've ever had to deal with rusted or corroded stuff... ;-P

--<< Bruce >>--

--
Bruce L. Bergman, Woodland Hills (Los Angeles) CA - Desktop
Electrician for Westend Electric - CA726700
5737 Kanan Rd. #359, Agoura CA 91301 (818) 889-9545
Spamtrapped address: Remove the python and the invalid, and use a net.

"Bruce L. Bergman" <blPYTHONbergman@earthlink.invalid> wrote in message
news:e8k912d1s4ctcd2psv22gktrgmg1ldgsjk@4ax.com...[color=blue]
> On Sun, 12 Mar 2006 17:56:43 -0600, "Ray O"
> <rokigawa@tristarassociatesDOTcomn> wrote:
>[color=green]
>>
>>"Bruce L. Bergman" <blPYTHONbergman@earthlink.invalid> wrote in message
>>news:del8129jbog8fdpps8po984n5v914hirsa@4ax.com...[color=darkred]
>>> On Sun, 12 Mar 2006 02:22:40 -0600, "Ray O"
>>> <rokigawa@tristarassociatesDOTcomn> wrote:
>>>>"---MIKE---" <twinmountain@webtv.net> wrote in message
>>>>news:18781-44136025-585@storefull-3252.bay.webtv.net...[/color][/color]
>[color=green]
>>Great advice Bruce![/color]
>
> Ray, it was your idea as a hole-blocker - I just spotted the fatal[/color]
--

Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)
[color=blue]
>
> Not that I've ever had to deal with rusted or corroded stuff... ;-P
>
> --<< Bruce >>--
>
> --[/color]

I imagine rust and corrosion are a little less common in southern CA than in
the Midwest or northeast!
--

Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)

On Sun, 12 Mar 2006 20:50:33 -0600, "Ray O"
<rokigawa@tristarassociatesDOTcomn> wrote:[color=blue]
>"Bruce L. Bergman" <blPYTHONbergman@earthlink.invalid> wrote in message
>news:e8k912d1s4ctcd2psv22gktrgmg1ldgsjk@4ax.com...[/color]
[color=blue][color=green]
>> Not that I've ever had to deal with rusted or corroded stuff... ;-P[/color]
>
>I imagine rust and corrosion are a little less common in southern CA than in
>the Midwest or northeast![/color]

On cars, no - we have people out here using pristine 40, 50, 60 year
old cars as daily drivers - several old Coronas still spotted
regularly out here. Even a Toyopet or two. The "Official Truck of
the L.A. Gardener" is a 60's or 70's era Toyota. (Ours has a Tundra,
with a trailer for all the 'stuff'.) Just saw a 4-hole 53-54ish Buick
this morning with enough chrome dripping off it to blind low-flying
aircraft...

But underground, Rust Happens. With a vengeance.

People put galvanized rigid steel conduit in very alkaline adobe
clay soil 30 years ago, then they hit it with automatic sprinklers
every day or two. And now all they have is a zinc and rust tube
through the dirt providing minimal protection to the wires.

Corrosion in aluminum can be really interesting, it either crumbles
into a powder or turns to jelly - or both. And with wire-nuts exposed
to water, the steel spring inside rusts rather fast. Looks great on
the outside, high-resistance open on the inside.

And they bring the steel conduits up through the lawn to an aluminum
splice box with an exposed light fixture, and then they aim a
sprinkler head right at the cover. When the conduits rust off right
at dirt level, they stake it up with rebar and baling wire and pour
some concrete around the pipes...

You want to pull new wires that work, you dig it all up and put in
new plastic conduit, replace the above-ground aluminum box with a
buried plastic handhole or a plastic fixture post.

--<< Bruce >>--
--
Bruce L. Bergman, Woodland Hills (Los Angeles) CA - Desktop
Electrician for Westend Electric - CA726700
5737 Kanan Rd. #359, Agoura CA 91301 (818) 889-9545
Spamtrapped address: Remove the python and the invalid, and use a net.

"Bruce L. Bergman" <blPYTHONbergman@earthlink.invalid> wrote in message
news:6dfb12t134cuo7hv5kdu3v6nqtrom96lqs@4ax.com...[color=blue]
> On Sun, 12 Mar 2006 20:50:33 -0600, "Ray O"
> <rokigawa@tristarassociatesDOTcomn> wrote:[color=green]
>>"Bruce L. Bergman" <blPYTHONbergman@earthlink.invalid> wrote in message
>>news:e8k912d1s4ctcd2psv22gktrgmg1ldgsjk@4ax.com...[/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
>>> Not that I've ever had to deal with rusted or corroded stuff... ;-P[/color]
>>
>>I imagine rust and corrosion are a little less common in southern CA than
>>in
>>the Midwest or northeast![/color]
>
> On cars, no - we have people out here using pristine 40, 50, 60 year
> old cars as daily drivers - several old Coronas still spotted
> regularly out here. Even a Toyopet or two. The "Official Truck of
> the L.A. Gardener" is a 60's or 70's era Toyota. (Ours has a Tundra,
> with a trailer for all the 'stuff'.) Just saw a 4-hole 53-54ish Buick
> this morning with enough chrome dripping off it to blind low-flying
> aircraft...
>[/color]
[color=blue]
> But underground, Rust Happens. With a vengeance.
>
> People put galvanized rigid steel conduit in very alkaline adobe
> clay soil 30 years ago, then they hit it with automatic sprinklers
> every day or two. And now all they have is a zinc and rust tube
> through the dirt providing minimal protection to the wires.
>
> Corrosion in aluminum can be really interesting, it either crumbles
> into a powder or turns to jelly - or both. And with wire-nuts exposed
> to water, the steel spring inside rusts rather fast. Looks great on
> the outside, high-resistance open on the inside.
>
> And they bring the steel conduits up through the lawn to an aluminum
> splice box with an exposed light fixture, and then they aim a
> sprinkler head right at the cover. When the conduits rust off right
> at dirt level, they stake it up with rebar and baling wire and pour
> some concrete around the pipes...[/color]

[color=blue]
>
> You want to pull new wires that work, you dig it all up and put in
> new plastic conduit, replace the above-ground aluminum box with a
> buried plastic handhole or a plastic fixture post.
>
> --<< Bruce >>--
> --
> Bruce L. Bergman, Woodland Hills (Los Angeles) CA - Desktop
> Electrician for Westend Electric - CA726700
> 5737 Kanan Rd. #359, Agoura CA 91301 (818) 889-9545
> Spamtrapped address: Remove the python and the invalid, and use a net.[/color]

I've always wondered how effective and durable the exterior metal conduit
could be since even galvanized metal will eventually rust, especially if the
zinc is scratched. When we lived in Mass, we had an a problem with our well
pump which turned out to be an open in the direct burial wire somewhere
between the pump in the front yard and the house. I was not happy to
discover that the wire was not in conduit. My brother-in-law is an
electrician and just happened to be visiting the weekend the pump bit the
dust - lucky me! Rather than spending time digging up the old wire, we just
Ditch-Witched a new trench and used plastic conduit between the pump and the
house.

We sold the house soon after so I don't know how durable the plastic stuff
is. My guess is the above-ground part of the plastic may become brittle
over time from the effects of the sun, but at least it was on the north side
of the house.


--

Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)

If you don't mind me butting in, I have the same problem with my 92
4Runner.

Anyone know how to get at/disassemble the fan housing to remove the smelly
buggers?

I do have the Toyota manual, but it doesn;t show how to do this.

David - who is sick of having his 4Runner smelling of dead mice all Summer

---MIKE--- wrote:
[color=blue]
> I recently had my blower disassembled to remove a nest that was causing
> vibration (2001 Prism). How do mice get in? The air intake (under the
> wipers) has a fine screen (although there appears to be a small opening
> on the extreme left side). Is there a drain hose under the car to allow
> water to drain out and is it large enough for a small mouse to go up? I
> would like to prevent this from happening again.
>
> ---MIKE---[color=green][color=darkred]
> >>In the White Mountains of New Hampshire
> >> (44° 15' N - Elevation 1580')[/color][/color][/color]

"quietguy" <quietguy@confidential-counselling.com> wrote in message
news:4418CBD8.5EEA43FC@confidential-counselling.com...[color=blue]
> If you don't mind me butting in, I have the same problem with my 92
> 4Runner.
>
> Anyone know how to get at/disassemble the fan housing to remove the smelly
> buggers?
>
> I do have the Toyota manual, but it doesn;t show how to do this.
>
> David - who is sick of having his 4Runner smelling of dead mice all Summer
>[/color]

You have to look under the passenger side of the dashboard and look at the
housing to figure out how to remove the housing. The fan will probably be
visible after you remove the cover.
--

Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)
[color=blue]
> ---MIKE--- wrote:
>[color=green]
>> I recently had my blower disassembled to remove a nest that was causing
>> vibration (2001 Prism). How do mice get in? The air intake (under the
>> wipers) has a fine screen (although there appears to be a small opening
>> on the extreme left side). Is there a drain hose under the car to allow
>> water to drain out and is it large enough for a small mouse to go up? I
>> would like to prevent this from happening again.
>>
>> ---MIKE---[color=darkred]
>> >>In the White Mountains of New Hampshire
>> >> (44° 15' N - Elevation 1580')[/color][/color]
>[/color]