Just bought an '85 Tercel 2wd wagon for $500

The paints all worn out, but it runs great, showing 232,000 on the
odometer.

It was stuck in second gear, costing $1,000 to have repaired, so I went
to the wrecking yard and had them put another one in for $440 a few
days ago. I just figured out that I'm only getting 2nd and 3rd gears
in Drive, though it can be down-shifted to get first. Is this fixable
or should I get a replacement transmission.

voice from the past

I had 2 83 4WD wagons. Watch out on tires. It wears edges badly and you
need tires that don't mind that kind of wear. Also there are 6 bolts under
the chasis that are supposed to be routinely tightened. Check the owners
manual. Be sure to get it done. Also there are 2 cheap stiffener pipes
underneat the front chasis that tend to crack exactly where they bolt in and
you may not see the crack unless you look carefully. Replace them if needed
and you'll have better handling. Can't answer your AT question.

And keep the carburator clean especially in cold weather if you want it to
start.


<timagine@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1142722572.665024.228590@j33g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...[color=blue]
> The paints all worn out, but it runs great, showing 232,000 on the
> odometer.
>
> It was stuck in second gear, costing $1,000 to have repaired, so I went
> to the wrecking yard and had them put another one in for $440 a few
> days ago. I just figured out that I'm only getting 2nd and 3rd gears
> in Drive, though it can be down-shifted to get first. Is this fixable
> or should I get a replacement transmission.
>
> voice from the past
>[/color]

Thanks for that.

Do you need a torque wrench for these bolts?

It has two brand new tires in back, and the front ones are ready to
replace.

I checked the transmission fluid yesterday, the engine was cold, and
those jokers who put in the used transmission at the wrecking yard put
so much fluid in there that it was twice as far up the stick as it
should be when hot! I used to disconnect the transmission line on my
Fairmont from the radiator and put it in a bottle and start the car for
a few seconds to remove excess fluid. Can this be done on this car as
well?

The Transmission will start in 1st gear when cold, but will not
downshif into 1st at a stop when hot. Could this be related to the
over-full transmission fluid resevoir? How much would a Toyota
specialist likely charge to put the car up on the lift to verify it has
the correct transmission in it?

The right front turn signal was broken off, and even when I replaced
the bulb the light won't come on. I'm going to take the one on the
left side off and borrow the cylindrical mystery from the line that the
light cord plugs into and try it on the right side to see if that's
what needs replacing.

It rattles the doors when idling because the idle is too low, which
means it needs tuning.

It has no cold start setting on the carburetor; it won't set at high
RPM when cold (Put the pedal to the floor and lift up, remove foot,
start car), so I'm going to at Chemtone gasoline treatment to a tank of
gas to get any gum out.

The brake light on the dash will stay on after I have released the
parking brake, then I will notice it's off.

The air conditioner slider won't easily go to the cold setting, and I
noticed the fuses for the A/C are removed from the fuse box. The
connections seem broken to the slider, since it fights being moved. Is
it easy to get the A/C up and running again if the pump is good?

Just at the top of my list...

voice from the past

On Sun, 19 Mar 2006 09:08:47 -0800, timagine wrote:
[color=blue]
> Do you need a torque wrench for these bolts?
>
> It has two brand new tires in back, and the front ones are ready to
> replace.
>
> I checked the transmission fluid yesterday, the engine was cold, and
> those jokers who put in the used transmission at the wrecking yard put
> so much fluid in there that it was twice as far up the stick as it
> should be when hot! I used to disconnect the transmission line on my
> Fairmont from the radiator and put it in a bottle and start the car for
> a few seconds to remove excess fluid. Can this be done on this car as
> well?[/color]

Dude. You check the tranny sauce with the engine running, tranny in
neutral, and HOT.
You'll get a false reading cold/engine off.

--
In the grand scheme fo things...
What difference does it make?

Dood:

Why does the stick have a cold measurement?

voice from the past

On Sun, 19 Mar 2006 11:00:42 -0800, timagine wrote:
[color=blue]
> Dood:
>
> Why does the stick have a cold measurement?
>
> voice from the past[/color]
For when the tranny's not warmed up.
But it _still_ has to be running!

--
In the grand scheme fo things...
What difference does it make?

Hard to believe, but true -- [email]timagine@hotmail.com[/email] typed:
[color=blue]
>Thanks for that.
>
>Do you need a torque wrench for these bolts?[/color]

I dunno which bolts you're referring to (a little quotation for
context is a *good* thing) but I suspect you mean:
[color=blue][color=green]
>>Also there are 6 bolts under
>>the chasis that are supposed to be routinely tightened.[/color][/color]

So I would say yes, a torque wrench is advised.

I always use a torque wrench for any "mission sensitive" bolts; by
that I mean any bolts that are essential for the safe operation of the
vehicle, as opposed to the bolts that hold accesory-type stuff
together. So anything in the engine, transmission, chassis, brakes,
steering, wheels, etc. gets torqued to the correct spec with a torque
wrench. 'Most everything else gets torqued by feel . . . .

-Don (suggesting a torque wrench for these 6)
--
"We have enough youth; let's start looking for the Fountain of Sense." --Anon

<timagine@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1142788127.234964.50850@t31g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...[color=blue]
> Thanks for that.
>
> Do you need a torque wrench for these bolts?
>[/color]

You do not *need* a torque wrench but it would be better to use one than not
use one, especially if you asked the question.
[color=blue]
> It has two brand new tires in back, and the front ones are ready to
> replace.
>
> I checked the transmission fluid yesterday, the engine was cold, and
> those jokers who put in the used transmission at the wrecking yard put
> so much fluid in there that it was twice as far up the stick as it
> should be when hot! I used to disconnect the transmission line on my
> Fairmont from the radiator and put it in a bottle and start the car for
> a few seconds to remove excess fluid. Can this be done on this car as
> well?
>[/color]

Yes.
[color=blue]
> The Transmission will start in 1st gear when cold, but will not
> downshif into 1st at a stop when hot. Could this be related to the
> over-full transmission fluid resevoir?[/color]

Possibly but not likely.

How much would a Toyota[color=blue]
> specialist likely charge to put the car up on the lift to verify it has
> the correct transmission in it?
>[/color]

15 to 30 minutes at your local labor rate.
[color=blue]
> The right front turn signal was broken off, and even when I replaced
> the bulb the light won't come on. I'm going to take the one on the
> left side off and borrow the cylindrical mystery from the line that the
> light cord plugs into and try it on the right side to see if that's
> what needs replacing.
>
> It rattles the doors when idling because the idle is too low, which
> means it needs tuning.
>
> It has no cold start setting on the carburetor; it won't set at high
> RPM when cold (Put the pedal to the floor and lift up, remove foot,
> start car), so I'm going to at Chemtone gasoline treatment to a tank of
> gas to get any gum out.[/color]

Gasoline treatments will not fix the choke problem. When the engine is
cold, try pulling the throttle linkage from under the hood and see if you
can figure out how the choke sets. You should see the butterfly valve
close.[color=blue]
>
> The brake light on the dash will stay on after I have released the
> parking brake, then I will notice it's off.
>[/color]

Check your brake fluid level. If the brake fluid level is low, check your
front and rear brake linings for wear.
[color=blue]
> The air conditioner slider won't easily go to the cold setting, and I
> noticed the fuses for the A/C are removed from the fuse box. The
> connections seem broken to the slider, since it fights being moved. Is
> it easy to get the A/C up and running again if the pump is good?[/color]

Check the linkage for the heater control valve on the firewall. You will
see the valve in the heater hose. It sounds like the valve or cable may be
binding.

Whether it is easy or difficult to get the A/C up and running if the
compressor is good depends on the condition of the A/C, your knowledge of
how the A/C system works, and access to tools and equipment. You have to
check for refrigerant leaks and whether the system is charged or not. If
the system has been exposed to the atmosphere for any length of time, you
will have to replace the receiver/drier, evacuate the system, and re-charge.[color=blue]
>
> Just at the top of my list...
>
> voice from the past
>[/color]
--

Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)

Thanks very much for the help of your knowledge and experience.

I am filled to the brim with curiosity, and had to find out what
answers there could be; I plan to go right out and get a repair manual
and follow it respectfully.

This car is so desirable! Everyone who sees it wants it.

Voice from the past

<timagine@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1142827801.795505.83060@j33g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...[color=blue]
> Thanks very much for the help of your knowledge and experience.
>
> I am filled to the brim with curiosity, and had to find out what
> answers there could be; I plan to go right out and get a repair manual
> and follow it respectfully.
>
> This car is so desirable! Everyone who sees it wants it.
>
> Voice from the past
>[/color]

If you are familiar with automotive terms and procedures and can read a
wiring diagram, then I recommend the Toyota factory service manual. If you
are a novice, then a Chilton manual may be easier to understand.
--

Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)

<timagine@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1142788127.234964.50850@t31g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...[color=blue]
> Thanks for that.
>
> Do you need a torque wrench for these bolts?
>[/color]
Nope. But be sure to check carefully to make sure those stiffeners aren't
cracked at the bolt holes. They are worthless if they are cracked.

On Sun, 19 Mar 2006 20:10:01 -0800, timagine wrote:
[color=blue]
> Thanks very much for the help of your knowledge and experience.
>
> I am filled to the brim with curiosity, and had to find out what
> answers there could be; I plan to go right out and get a repair manual
> and follow it respectfully.
>
> This car is so desirable! Everyone who sees it wants it.
>
> Voice from the past[/color]

I can't remember if I bought a manual for my '83.
If I did, and I can find it, you're welcome to it. Give me until the
weekend to look.

--
In the grand scheme fo things...
What difference does it make?