I have succesfully replaced all 4 spark plugs on my '99 Camry , 113K
miles bought new.
As far as I can remember, the spark plugs are never changed since I
bought the car new. Cylinder 1 sparkplug was a bit tough to remove but
eventually came off. I used renetrating oil and let if for an hour. The
old plugs are some what worn and are dark grey in color but there is no
oil on the tip. I replaced with new OEM NGK plugs from dealer and used
bit of anti-seize compound as well.
I feel a bit more brisk acceleration now and yet to verify any mileage
improvement. BUT there is a very slight shimmy kind of vibrations on
steering wheel now. Not sure it is due to new plugs
Only issue is - I could not get a torque wrench that can be set to
19lb-ft , all I saw at sears are at least 50lb-ft and above. So I hand
tightened. I found a toque wrench elase where that can be set to
19lb-ft. My question is Can I use the torque wrench now to re-tighten
to correct torque?
I have not changed wires. When should I change and what price approx?
You should change the wires at the same time you change the plugs, and it
will be anywhere from $68 to $100 depending on if you get a discount or
which dealer.
I don't think the shimmy is from the plugs, unless one is missing (from old
wires?)
Check you tire pressures.
<vktechmails@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1144333278.379896.71450@u72g2000cwu.googlegroups.com...[color=blue]
> Hello all,
>
> I have succesfully replaced all 4 spark plugs on my '99 Camry , 113K
> miles bought new.
>
> As far as I can remember, the spark plugs are never changed since I
> bought the car new. Cylinder 1 sparkplug was a bit tough to remove but
> eventually came off. I used renetrating oil and let if for an hour. The
> old plugs are some what worn and are dark grey in color but there is no
> oil on the tip. I replaced with new OEM NGK plugs from dealer and used
> bit of anti-seize compound as well.
>
> I feel a bit more brisk acceleration now and yet to verify any mileage
> improvement. BUT there is a very slight shimmy kind of vibrations on
> steering wheel now. Not sure it is due to new plugs
>
> Only issue is - I could not get a torque wrench that can be set to
> 19lb-ft , all I saw at sears are at least 50lb-ft and above. So I hand
> tightened. I found a toque wrench elase where that can be set to
> 19lb-ft. My question is Can I use the torque wrench now to re-tighten
> to correct torque?
>
> I have not changed wires. When should I change and what price approx?
>
> TIA
>[/color]
The "beam" type torque wrenches are best for low torque - the kind
where the main beam of the wrench bends and a pointer indicates how
much on a scale.
Go ahead and check that the plugs are tightened to the correct torque,
but I wouldn't loosen them because the crush washer at their base would
then have to be re compressed from a used condition.
Spark plug wires should be genuine Toyota parts only for best results.
You can check online for more competitive prices.
<vktechmails@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1144333278.379896.71450@u72g2000cwu.googlegroups.com...
.............>[color=blue]
> Only issue is - I could not get a torque wrench that can be set to
> 19lb-ft , all I saw at sears are at least 50lb-ft and above. So I hand
> tightened. I found a toque wrench elase where that can be set to
> 19lb-ft. My question is Can I use the torque wrench now to re-tighten
> to correct torque?
>[/color]
Yes. Loosen first otherwise if too tight you won't know, and if too loose
the "starting friction" might fool the wrench.
[color=blue]
> I have not changed wires. When should I change and what price approx?
>[/color]
I just paid about $AUS100 (non geniune) including the dist. cap. Change them
if they show a lot of sparks in the dark, if they measure almost infinite or
eratic resistance, show damage (as mine did with a cracked stalk end), or if
you have tried almost everything else to fix a problem...
Also, make sure the plug wires fully seated and are not touching each
other. They should be routed the same way as factory if you remember
what it looked like, if not check Haynes manual pictures for some
guidance.
Harbor Freight has 0-80 ft/lb 3/8"-drive torque wrench for about $12.
Good deal for the home mechanic.
You can try reseating the wires before changing them out. Changing
wires may not help if the problems are with the plugs/installation.
[email]vktechmails@yahoo.com[/email] wrote:[color=blue]
> Hello all,
>
> I have succesfully replaced all 4 spark plugs on my '99 Camry , 113K
> miles bought new.
>
> As far as I can remember, the spark plugs are never changed since I
> bought the car new. Cylinder 1 sparkplug was a bit tough to remove but
> eventually came off. I used renetrating oil and let if for an hour. The
> old plugs are some what worn and are dark grey in color but there is no
> oil on the tip. I replaced with new OEM NGK plugs from dealer and used
> bit of anti-seize compound as well.
>
> I feel a bit more brisk acceleration now and yet to verify any mileage
> improvement. BUT there is a very slight shimmy kind of vibrations on
> steering wheel now. Not sure it is due to new plugs
>
> Only issue is - I could not get a torque wrench that can be set to
> 19lb-ft , all I saw at sears are at least 50lb-ft and above. So I hand
> tightened. I found a toque wrench elase where that can be set to
> 19lb-ft. My question is Can I use the torque wrench now to re-tighten
> to correct torque?
>
> I have not changed wires. When should I change and what price approx?
>
> TIA[/color]
Smart to use the anti-seize! I also use the dielectric silicone grease on
the tops of plugs where the wire/boot snaps on. Often on new models the
distributor cap comes with the plug wires attached. I ordered mine from one
of the mail order OEM discount yota parts place -- along with air and oil
filters -- 20-30% savings and some ship free if over x$. Was probably $60 or
so?
<vktechmails@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1144333278.379896.71450@u72g2000cwu.googlegroups.com...[color=blue]
> Hello all,
>
> I have succesfully replaced all 4 spark plugs on my '99 Camry , 113K
> miles bought new.
>
> As far as I can remember, the spark plugs are never changed since I
> bought the car new. Cylinder 1 sparkplug was a bit tough to remove but
> eventually came off. I used renetrating oil and let if for an hour. The
> old plugs are some what worn and are dark grey in color but there is no
> oil on the tip. I replaced with new OEM NGK plugs from dealer and used
> bit of anti-seize compound as well.
>
> I feel a bit more brisk acceleration now and yet to verify any mileage
> improvement. BUT there is a very slight shimmy kind of vibrations on
> steering wheel now. Not sure it is due to new plugs
>
> Only issue is - I could not get a torque wrench that can be set to
> 19lb-ft , all I saw at sears are at least 50lb-ft and above. So I hand
> tightened. I found a toque wrench elase where that can be set to
> 19lb-ft. My question is Can I use the torque wrench now to re-tighten
> to correct torque?
>
> I have not changed wires. When should I change and what price approx?
>
> TIA
>[/color]
Thanks for the replies, guys. I have asked my local toyota delaer for
ignition wires. They have DENSO make wires for $85. They do not have
NGK. I have seen some online shops for $115 for NGK 4cyl wires. what
wires are good and where can I get? What is the procedure for
replacing wires?
<vktechmails@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1144378214.686882.196100@t31g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...[color=blue]
> Thanks for the replies, guys. I have asked my local toyota delaer for
> ignition wires. They have DENSO make wires for $85. They do not have
> NGK. I have seen some online shops for $115 for NGK 4cyl wires. what
> wires are good and where can I get? What is the procedure for
> replacing wires?
>
> Does wires go bad after say 7years/110K miles?
>[/color]
To answer your earlier question about the torque wrench, you probably have
to find a 3/8" drive to find one with such a low setting.
DENSO is Toyota's major supplier for electrical parts, NGK is the secondary
supplier. You won't go wrong with either one and if the DENSO wires are
less expensive, then I'd go with those.
Some wires go bad after 7 years/110k miles, some do not.
--
<vktechmails@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1144423676.931758.198830@e56g2000cwe.googlegroups.com...[color=blue]
>
> I guess I will get DENSO wires from dealer. Are they made in Japan?
>
> Also can you please tell me the procedure for changing wires?
> tips/cautions etc
>
> Thanks.
>[/color]
Basically, push/pull from the plug part, not the wire.
Use the dielectric greas as mentioned before. It makes a better contact and
allows for easier replacement if you ever do have to do another tune-up.
Remove ONE WIRE AT A TIME! If all the wires are attached to the distributor,
MARK THEM or take a picture with yur digital camera so you make sure you get
the correct order.
<vktechmails@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1144378214.686882.196100@t31g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...[color=blue]
> Thanks for the replies, guys. I have asked my local toyota delaer for
> ignition wires. They have DENSO make wires for $85. They do not have
> NGK. I have seen some online shops for $115 for NGK 4cyl wires. what
> wires are good and where can I get? What is the procedure for
> replacing wires?
>
> Does wires go bad after say 7years/110K miles?[/color]
Wires can go bad sooner than that.
I don't have a Toyota, but son did - a Tercel. We have used aftermarket
wires
and have found that good quality ones work out fine.
BUT, wires don't tend to tolerate rough treatment. Pulling them on and off
the plugs improperly can damage them.
Moisture in the distributor cap caused by condensation or water splashing
after rains can reduce you to a no run situation.
In article <k%OZf.9333$4L1.285@newssvr11.news.prodigy.com>
[email]HLS@nospam.nix[/email] "<HLS@nospam.nix>" writes:
[color=blue]
> BUT, wires don't tend to tolerate rough treatment. [...][/color]
IIRC, distributor leads also don't like engine oil. It's worth
cleaning down the various clips and insulators past which the
leads go: try white spirit (or another gentle volatile solvent,
so the stuff will evaporate cleanly).
--
Andrew Stephenson
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