hooked up battery wrong HELP

OK My son in law hooked the battery the wrong way, guess what it won't fire,
it just turns over with no fire. we chnaged out the one fuse 85amp nothing.
does anyone have any suggestions? it is a 1991 toyota camry

On Sat, 08 Apr 2006 04:15:49 +0000, djmoose wrote:
[color=blue]
> OK My son in law hooked the battery the wrong way, guess what it won't fire,
> it just turns over with no fire. we chnaged out the one fuse 85amp nothing.
> does anyone have any suggestions? it is a 1991 toyota camry[/color]

Look at all the fuses, under the hood, and the fusible links.
Hopefully you missed one.


--
In the grand scheme fo things...
What difference does it make?

"Hachiroku" <Trueno@ae86.GTS> wrote in message
news:SPRZf.59$yg2.6@trndny02...[color=blue]
> On Sat, 08 Apr 2006 04:15:49 +0000, djmoose wrote:
>
> OK My son in law hooked the battery the wrong way[/color]

You may also have partially or completely fried the alternator.

Stewart DIBBS

On Sun, 9 Apr 2006 09:33:45 -0400, "Stewart DIBBS" <sjd@pixcl.com>
wrote:
[color=blue]
>"Hachiroku" <Trueno@ae86.GTS> wrote in message
>news:SPRZf.59$yg2.6@trndny02...[color=green]
>> On Sat, 08 Apr 2006 04:15:49 +0000, djmoose wrote:
>>
>> OK My son in law hooked the battery the wrong way[/color][/color]

DJMoose: Today, like right now - go get a 120V (240V for UK) line
powered battery charger connected and get the car's battery back to a
full charge. The 10-amp size is plenty.

If you let lead-acid starting batteries set for long while partly
discharged or totally flat they will get sulfated and ruined - and
there's another $50 right down the tubes.... Then you can keep
tracking down the other problems.
[color=blue]
>You may also have partially or completely fried the alternator.[/color]

Killed the alternator /or/ popped a fusible link on the large
charging lead from the alternator output stud to the battery. Even if
you fix every other link and fuse on the car, every other system is
working fine, if the battery isn't charging you won't run for long.

If the engine is running at 'fast idle' (above 1500 - 2000 RPM), you
should have something between 13.8 - 14.5 volts DC (depending on the
temperature, hotter=higher) on the output stud of the alternator, and
at the battery terminals. If you see anything below 12.5 volts, the
alternator is not putting out enough power to charge the battery.

Use a decent digital volt-ohmmeter - it'll cost you $20, and will
last for many years. Continuity check for fuses, etc.

The little plug on the alternator will have three or four leads on
it, and you can use the meter to see if the signals that are supposed
to be there are in fact there - if the alternator doesn't see power on
the accessory lead it won't "turn on", even if the car is running.
One lead will be accessory switched power, another is +12V that goes
through the "Charge" warning light on the dash, and it might have an
always-on 'battery reference voltage' lead coming back through the
harness... Check the shop/repair manual for your model.

--<< Bruce >>--

--
Bruce L. Bergman, Woodland Hills (Los Angeles) CA - Desktop
Electrician for Westend Electric - CA726700
5737 Kanan Rd. #359, Agoura CA 91301 (818) 889-9545
Spamtrapped address: Remove the python and the invalid, and use a net.

Thank you very much, It was a fuse. Running like a charm Thanks again

Nicholas Bourne wrote:[color=blue][color=green]
>> OK My son in law hooked the battery the wrong way, guess what it won't
>> fire,
>> it just turns over with no fire. we chnaged out the one fuse 85amp
>> nothing.
>> does anyone have any suggestions? it is a 1991 toyota camry[/color]
>
>Do all of the lights on the dash come on? If the check engine light doesn't
>come on you may have missed a fuse or you may have damaged a realy. if you
>have checked all of these and they look ok, pull out the main fuses under
>the bonnet and use a test 12v test lamp to check them. I have seen plenty of
>those that look ok but won't allow a test lamp to light. But be prepared for
>a worst case of a damaged ECU. if you can't find one from a car recycler you
>can kiss the car goodbye. If they are aviable form toyota they will be worth
>more than than the car.[/color]

--
Message posted via [url]http://www.carkb.com[/url]

Thank you it was a fuse

Hachiroku wrote:[color=blue][color=green]
>> OK My son in law hooked the battery the wrong way, guess what it won't fire,
>> it just turns over with no fire. we chnaged out the one fuse 85amp nothing.
>> does anyone have any suggestions? it is a 1991 toyota camry[/color]
>
>Look at all the fuses, under the hood, and the fusible links.
>Hopefully you missed one.
>[/color]

--
Message posted via CarKB.com
[url]http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/toyota/200604/1[/url]

On Mon, 10 Apr 2006 19:39:26 +1000, "Nicholas Bourne"
<nabourne@tpg.com.au> wrote:[color=blue]
>"djmoose" <u20643@uwe> wrote in message news:5e73d545f96fa@uwe...[/color]
[color=blue][color=green]
>> OK My son in law hooked the battery the wrong way, guess what it won't
>> fire,
>> it just turns over with no fire. we chnaged out the one fuse 85amp
>> nothing.
>> does anyone have any suggestions? it is a 1991 toyota camry[/color]
>
>Do all of the lights on the dash come on? If the check engine light doesn't
>come on you may have missed a fuse or you may have damaged a realy. if you
>have checked all of these and they look ok, pull out the main fuses under
>the bonnet and use a test 12v test lamp to check them. I have seen plenty of
>those that look ok but won't allow a test lamp to light. But be prepared for
>a worst case of a damaged ECU. if you can't find one from a car recycler you
>can kiss the car goodbye. If they are aviable form toyota they will be worth
>more than than the car.[/color]

All good points, but the ECU is pretty well protected by fuses and
crowbar diodes to (try and) make sure the reverse polarity doesn't get
inside to wreak havoc. And there are multiple power leads with their
own protection, you have to find and fix them all.

The ECU is a classic Red Herring - one of those things you can
suspect, but don't change until you've exhausted every other possible
option, unless you can see the Magic Smoke ;-) coming out of it they
usually aren't the real problem. Someone here (Ray O.?) mentioned
that 98% or so of the ECU's exchanged as Absolutely 'I'm Sure Of It!'
Bad test good when they get back to the repair depot...

And as you said, they're ridiculously expensive new, and the
wrecking yards know that too so you still pay dearly for a used one.

Good thing the OP found the hidden fuse and got the car going.

--<< Bruce >>--

--
Bruce L. Bergman, Woodland Hills (Los Angeles) CA - Desktop
Electrician for Westend Electric - CA726700
5737 Kanan Rd. #359, Agoura CA 91301 (818) 889-9545
Spamtrapped address: Remove the python and the invalid, and use a net.

"Bruce L. Bergman" <blPYTHONbergman@earthlink.invalid> wrote in message
news:rouk32d6d80p5ibntquv4b88qsj35k3abs@4ax.com...
[color=blue]
> On Mon, 10 Apr 2006 19:39:26 +1000, "Nicholas Bourne"
> <nabourne@tpg.com.au> wrote:[color=green]
>>"djmoose" <u20643@uwe> wrote in message news:5e73d545f96fa@uwe...[/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
>>> OK My son in law hooked the battery the wrong way, guess what it won't
>>> fire,
>>> it just turns over with no fire. we chnaged out the one fuse 85amp
>>> nothing.
>>> does anyone have any suggestions? it is a 1991 toyota camry[/color]
>>
>>Do all of the lights on the dash come on? If the check engine light
>>doesn't
>>come on you may have missed a fuse or you may have damaged a realy. if you
>>have checked all of these and they look ok, pull out the main fuses under
>>the bonnet and use a test 12v test lamp to check them. I have seen plenty
>>of
>>those that look ok but won't allow a test lamp to light. But be prepared
>>for
>>a worst case of a damaged ECU. if you can't find one from a car recycler
>>you
>>can kiss the car goodbye. If they are aviable form toyota they will be
>>worth
>>more than than the car.[/color]
>
> All good points, but the ECU is pretty well protected by fuses and
> crowbar diodes to (try and) make sure the reverse polarity doesn't get
> inside to wreak havoc. And there are multiple power leads with their
> own protection, you have to find and fix them all.
>
> The ECU is a classic Red Herring - one of those things you can
> suspect, but don't change until you've exhausted every other possible
> option, unless you can see the Magic Smoke ;-) coming out of it they
> usually aren't the real problem. Someone here (Ray O.?) mentioned
> that 98% or so of the ECU's exchanged as Absolutely 'I'm Sure Of It!'
> Bad test good when they get back to the repair depot...
>
> And as you said, they're ridiculously expensive new, and the
> wrecking yards know that too so you still pay dearly for a used one.
>
> Good thing the OP found the hidden fuse and got the car going.
>
> --<< Bruce >>--
>[/color]

I think the figure for Toyota ecu's is over 99%. I've looked at my share of
problem vehicles and have never personally run across a bad one.
--

Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)

On Mon, 10 Apr 2006 10:48:08 +0000, djmoose via CarKB.com wrote:
[color=blue]
> Thank you it was a fuse
>
> Hachiroku wrote:[color=green][color=darkred]
>>> OK My son in law hooked the battery the wrong way, guess what it won't fire,
>>> it just turns over with no fire. we chnaged out the one fuse 85amp nothing.
>>> does anyone have any suggestions? it is a 1991 toyota camry[/color]
>>
>>Look at all the fuses, under the hood, and the fusible links.
>>Hopefully you missed one.
>>[/color][/color]

Glad to be of assistance!
Thank your Lucky Stars you didn't snap the ECU!!!

--
In the grand scheme fo things...
What difference does it make?