88 corolla sr5 carb model (coil question)

I have the kind of coil that is partially under the distributor cap. Can
a defective coil cause intermittent stalling and bucking even at 20-30
mph? fuel filter good (new). New fuel pump. New plugs and rotor. There
is a tiny rust out in the tank filler pipe. Can this cause a vaccum
problem? My fuel filter is transparent plastic and when the engine is
idling you can see the gas swirling like mad so it is apparently making
the engine compartment. All the hoses to and from the fuel pump look
secure. If I start the engine after sitting overnight it will start
right up. It will gradually climb to 2400 rpm - I tap the accelerator
and it will drop back down to 1000 rpm and idle for 5-10 minutes and
then you can hear it bump-bump and stall. Most of the time it will
restart immediately. If I was going 20 mph I pop the clutch in second
and it starts right up. Can any of you techs point me in the right
direction. I don't have a lot of money to spend. Sometimes you can go
150 miles without it happening. Only 91,000 original miles.

Gary

"Gary" <gareth@capecod.net> wrote in message
news:eHQ2g.11748$i41.5343@newsread1.news.atl.earthlink.net...[color=blue]
>I have the kind of coil that is partially under the distributor cap. Can a
>defective coil cause intermittent stalling and bucking even at 20-30 mph?[/color]

Possibly. Does the problem occur if you rev the engine in neutral? If not,
then then the coil is probably OK.
[color=blue]
>fuel filter good (new). New fuel pump. New plugs and rotor.[/color]

Some aftermarket plugs and ignition parts, even name brand ones, can cause
driveability problems. Frankly, I do not now which ones do and which ones
do not so I always recommend OEM ignition parts.
[color=blue]
>There is a tiny rust out in the tank filler pipe. Can this cause a vaccum
>problem?[/color]

No.
[color=blue]
>My fuel filter is transparent plastic and when the engine is idling you can
>see the gas swirling like mad so it is apparently making the engine
>compartment. All the hoses to and from the fuel pump look secure. If I
>start the engine after sitting overnight it will start right up. It will
>gradually climb to 2400 rpm - I tap the accelerator and it will drop back
>down to 1000 rpm and idle for 5-10 minutes and then you can hear it
>bump-bump and stall. Most of the time it will restart immediately. If I was
>going 20 mph I pop the clutch in second and it starts right up. Can any of
>you techs point me in the right direction. I don't have a lot of money to
>spend. Sometimes you can go 150 miles without it happening. Only 91,000
>original miles.
>
> Gary[/color]

It sounds more like a fuel problem than an ignition problem. Check the fuel
level in the sight glass on the side of the carb. The fuel level should be
at the notches on the side of the metal ring holding the glass in place. I
suspect that the float in the carb is hanging up.
--

Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)

Ray O wrote:[color=blue]
> "Gary" <gareth@capecod.net> wrote in message
> news:eHQ2g.11748$i41.5343@newsread1.news.atl.earthlink.net...[color=green]
>> I have the kind of coil that is partially under the distributor cap. Can a
>> defective coil cause intermittent stalling and bucking even at 20-30 mph?[/color]
>
> Possibly. Does the problem occur if you rev the engine in neutral? If not,
> then then the coil is probably OK.[/color]

It has not happened while I rev up.[color=blue]
>[color=green]
>> fuel filter good (new). New fuel pump. New plugs and rotor.[/color]
>
> Some aftermarket plugs and ignition parts, even name brand ones, can cause
> driveability problems. Frankly, I do not now which ones do and which ones
> do not so I always recommend OEM ignition parts.[/color]

Your right of course but the OEM Toyota are really expensive.[color=blue]
>[color=green]
>> There is a tiny rust out in the tank filler pipe. Can this cause a vaccum
>> problem?[/color]
>
> No.[/color]

Great[color=blue]
>[color=green]
>> My fuel filter is transparent plastic and when the engine is idling you can
>> see the gas swirling like mad so it is apparently making the engine
>> compartment. All the hoses to and from the fuel pump look secure. If I
>> start the engine after sitting overnight it will start right up. It will
>> gradually climb to 2400 rpm - I tap the accelerator and it will drop back
>> down to 1000 rpm and idle for 5-10 minutes and then you can hear it
>> bump-bump and stall. Most of the time it will restart immediately. If I was
>> going 20 mph I pop the clutch in second and it starts right up. Can any of
>> you techs point me in the right direction. I don't have a lot of money to
>> spend. Sometimes you can go 150 miles without it happening. Only 91,000
>> original miles.
>>
>> Gary[/color]
>
> It sounds more like a fuel problem than an ignition problem. Check the fuel
> level in the sight glass on the side of the carb. The fuel level should be
> at the notches on the side of the metal ring holding the glass in place. I
> suspect that the float in the carb is hanging up.[/color]

Looks like I need to clean the carb. I use the car for primary
transport. Still to cold up here for the motorcycle. Would spraying a
good degreaser down the throat help? If so, is there one you would
recommend?
Thanks so much Ray for your time and expertise.

Gary

"Gary" <gareth@capecod.net> wrote in message
news:444D6904.1080006@capecod.net...[color=blue]
> Ray O wrote:[color=green]
>> "Gary" <gareth@capecod.net> wrote in message
>> news:eHQ2g.11748$i41.5343@newsread1.news.atl.earthlink.net...[color=darkred]
>>> I have the kind of coil that is partially under the distributor cap. Can
>>> a defective coil cause intermittent stalling and bucking even at 20-30
>>> mph?[/color]
>>
>> Possibly. Does the problem occur if you rev the engine in neutral? If
>> not, then then the coil is probably OK.[/color]
>
> It has not happened while I rev up.[color=green]
>>[color=darkred]
>>> fuel filter good (new). New fuel pump. New plugs and rotor.[/color]
>>
>> Some aftermarket plugs and ignition parts, even name brand ones, can
>> cause driveability problems. Frankly, I do not now which ones do and
>> which ones do not so I always recommend OEM ignition parts.[/color]
>
> Your right of course but the OEM Toyota are really expensive.[/color]

OEM Toyota ignition parts are about the same price as high-end aftermarket,
and still cheaper than buying cheap aftermarket parts and them taking them
off and substituting OEM because the cheap ones didn't work. In any event,
it does not sound like your problem is ignition-related so this is probably
a moot point.

<snipped>>
[color=blue][color=green][color=darkred]
>>> My fuel filter is transparent plastic and when the engine is idling you
>>> can see the gas swirling like mad so it is apparently making the engine
>>> compartment. All the hoses to and from the fuel pump look secure. If I
>>> start the engine after sitting overnight it will start right up. It will
>>> gradually climb to 2400 rpm - I tap the accelerator and it will drop
>>> back down to 1000 rpm and idle for 5-10 minutes and then you can hear it
>>> bump-bump and stall. Most of the time it will restart immediately. If I
>>> was going 20 mph I pop the clutch in second and it starts right up. Can
>>> any of you techs point me in the right direction. I don't have a lot of
>>> money to spend. Sometimes you can go 150 miles without it happening.
>>> Only 91,000 original miles.
>>>
>>> Gary[/color]
>>
>> It sounds more like a fuel problem than an ignition problem. Check the
>> fuel level in the sight glass on the side of the carb. The fuel level
>> should be at the notches on the side of the metal ring holding the glass
>> in place. I suspect that the float in the carb is hanging up.[/color]
>
> Looks like I need to clean the carb. I use the car for primary transport.
> Still to cold up here for the motorcycle. Would spraying a good degreaser
> down the throat help? If so, is there one you would recommend?
> Thanks so much Ray for your time and expertise.
>
> Gary[/color]

I would not use any old degreaser in the carburetor. Use an aerosol carb
cleaner, do not lean over the carb when you're doing this if you value your
eyebrows and hair. You'll get clouds of smoke out the exhaust when you do
this. You may want to spray some on a paper towel and wipe some of the
varnish buildup off of the throttle plate and in the throat before you start
and spray. Spraying carb cleaner down the barrel will not do anything to
fix a float problem but there is a slight chance it will clean a clogged
jet. The carb has a bowl that basically works like the tank on a toilet. A
float about the size of a mini-marshmallow is attached to a wire arm, and as
the fuel flows into the bowl and the fuel level in the tank rises, the float
reduces the flow of fuel into the bowl. When you stomp on the accelerator,
the fuel flows out of the bowl through the jet and into the venturi. If the
float has developed a hole, it won't float properly and too much fuel can
flow into the venturi or if the float is hanging up, then it gets starved
for fuel. There are fuel system cleaners like Chevron Techron that you add
to the fuel tank that may have better results for you. Follow the
directions carefully. If you don't use it up quickly enough, it can corrode
some internal parts.
--

Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)

[color=blue]
>
> I would not use any old degreaser in the carburetor. Use an aerosol carb
> cleaner, do not lean over the carb when you're doing this if you value your
> eyebrows and hair. You'll get clouds of smoke out the exhaust when you do
> this. You may want to spray some on a paper towel and wipe some of the
> varnish buildup off of the throttle plate and in the throat before you start
> and spray. Spraying carb cleaner down the barrel will not do anything to
> fix a float problem but there is a slight chance it will clean a clogged
> jet. The carb has a bowl that basically works like the tank on a toilet. A
> float about the size of a mini-marshmallow is attached to a wire arm, and as
> the fuel flows into the bowl and the fuel level in the tank rises, the float
> reduces the flow of fuel into the bowl. When you stomp on the accelerator,
> the fuel flows out of the bowl through the jet and into the venturi. If the
> float has developed a hole, it won't float properly and too much fuel can
> flow into the venturi or if the float is hanging up, then it gets starved
> for fuel. There are fuel system cleaners like Chevron Techron that you add
> to the fuel tank that may have better results for you. Follow the
> directions carefully. If you don't use it up quickly enough, it can corrode
> some internal parts.[/color]


I do plumbing so I can really appreciate your toilet bowl analogy. I
will give all this a shot and watch my eyebrows. Thanks so much.

gary

"Gary" <gareth@capecod.net> wrote in message
news:444E55A3.3040103@capecod.net...[color=blue]
>[color=green]
>>
>> I would not use any old degreaser in the carburetor. Use an aerosol carb
>> cleaner, do not lean over the carb when you're doing this if you value
>> your eyebrows and hair. You'll get clouds of smoke out the exhaust when
>> you do this. You may want to spray some on a paper towel and wipe some
>> of the varnish buildup off of the throttle plate and in the throat before
>> you start and spray. Spraying carb cleaner down the barrel will not do
>> anything to fix a float problem but there is a slight chance it will
>> clean a clogged jet. The carb has a bowl that basically works like the
>> tank on a toilet. A float about the size of a mini-marshmallow is
>> attached to a wire arm, and as the fuel flows into the bowl and the fuel
>> level in the tank rises, the float reduces the flow of fuel into the
>> bowl. When you stomp on the accelerator, the fuel flows out of the bowl
>> through the jet and into the venturi. If the float has developed a hole,
>> it won't float properly and too much fuel can flow into the venturi or if
>> the float is hanging up, then it gets starved for fuel. There are fuel
>> system cleaners like Chevron Techron that you add to the fuel tank that
>> may have better results for you. Follow the directions carefully. If
>> you don't use it up quickly enough, it can corrode some internal parts.[/color]
>
>
> I do plumbing so I can really appreciate your toilet bowl analogy. I will
> give all this a shot and watch my eyebrows. Thanks so much.
>
> gary[/color]

You're welcome and good luck!

--

Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)