I have a 2000 camry, 70K miles.
With AC or heater ON, I get air from vents on feet, defrost, and front
vents on the side. No air blows from the front vents in the middle.
It does not matter which option I choose on the vent mode switch (Face,
Face&Feet, Feet, Feet&Defrost, Defrost).
I opened the dash and got the mode switch out. Checked its continuity
as per Chilton's manual, and it is fine.
Does anybody know the continuity tests besides whats already in
Chilton's manual?
What else could go wrong that causes this problem?
I have opened most of the dash, but not the top dash. In order to
reach the ducts, do I need to open the dash completely?
Chilton's manual does not provide detailed information on reaching the
ducts. Is there a website for this?
Anybody experienced this problem?
"Cougar" <akbar_aman@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1145915248.049471.312900@u72g2000cwu.googlegroups.com...[color=blue]
>I have a 2000 camry, 70K miles.
> With AC or heater ON, I get air from vents on feet, defrost, and front
> vents on the side. No air blows from the front vents in the middle.
> It does not matter which option I choose on the vent mode switch (Face,
> Face&Feet, Feet, Feet&Defrost, Defrost).
> I opened the dash and got the mode switch out. Checked its continuity
> as per Chilton's manual, and it is fine.
> Does anybody know the continuity tests besides whats already in
> Chilton's manual?
> What else could go wrong that causes this problem?
> I have opened most of the dash, but not the top dash. In order to
> reach the ducts, do I need to open the dash completely?
> Chilton's manual does not provide detailed information on reaching the
> ducts. Is there a website for this?
> Anybody experienced this problem?
>
> Thanks for helping me out.
>[/color]
Assuming that:
1) the Chilton's manual is correct and you have properly checked continuity
and voltage at the switch
2) there is no manual shutoff for the air coming out of the center vents
3) or if there is a manual cutoff for the air coming out of the center
vents and you have the cutoff open,
Then, the next thing to check is the actuator for the dampers. The
actuator(s) are usually under the dash right next to the center console.
Moving the mode switch from feet to face, defog, etc. should make the
actuator move, which is attached to the damper.
--
I have a 98 Camry, and I seem to remember reading something strange
about the middle vents in the owner's manual. Maybe they're only on
when air is set to "recirculate" or only "fresh/nonrecirculate", or
only above or below a certain temperature... I know the symptoms you're
talking about, but I obviously don't remember exactly what to do if you
really need air from the middle vents. Have you already looked in your
owner's manual?
Sorry I can't help more,
Andy
One more thing: With the vent mode switch disconnected (the dash is
completely dismantled), I connected the AC switch and the fan switch,
then I started the fan, and the air is still blowing on feet, deforst,
and front side vents - no air from the front middle vents.
"Cougar" <akbar_aman@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1146057174.707516.108140@i39g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...[color=blue]
> One more thing: With the vent mode switch disconnected (the dash is
> completely dismantled), I connected the AC switch and the fan switch,
> then I started the fan, and the air is still blowing on feet, deforst,
> and front side vents - no air from the front middle vents.
>[/color]
"Cougar" <akbar_aman@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1146162805.452961.109300@g10g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...[color=blue]
> Ray,
> Thanks for all the good advice.
> Do I need to remove the fan assembly (blower) under the dash on the
> passenger side to get to the damper?
>[/color]
I don't know for sure, but I doubt it. If you look around under the dash
while someone changes mode (vent, heat, bi-level, defog, you should see
cables moving levers. The levers are attached to the dampers inside the
ductwork.
Also, I believe that the center vents have on-off wheels next to the vents.
Have you tried to see if they are open?
--
There are no on-off wheels for the center vents.
I plan to take out the fan motor assembly and look for leaves and also
try to locate the damper under the dash.
"Cougar" <akbar_aman@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1146196313.100828.279720@u72g2000cwu.googlegroups.com...[color=blue]
> There are no on-off wheels for the center vents.
> I plan to take out the fan motor assembly and look for leaves and also
> try to locate the damper under the dash.
>[/color]
If there were enough leaves behind the fan motor to block air flow to the
center vents, it would probably stop flow to all of the vents and smell
pretty bad.
Thank you for helping me out Ray.
Even after removing the blower motor (fan) and the blower unit case, I
am unable to find the damper. I am reluctant to remove the upper dash.
I read on an online manual
[url]http://oregonstate.edu/~tongt/camry/99/index.html[/url] that the inlet damper
control cable controls the vent modes. However, I am unable to find
this cable. The central console, glove box, and lower dash is
completely disassembled.
I noticed that the continuity checks on the vent mode switch do not
meet the results specified in the Chilton's manual. I do not know if
Chliton's manual is incorrect or the vent mode switch is gone bad. In
order to see if Chilton's manual is correct, I am thinking to short the
pins using an electrical wire (as per Chilton's manual) on the cable
harness that connects to the vent mode switch. Could this cause any
damage to the electrical wiring of the car?
I just do not want to buy the vent mode switch unless I am sure if IT
IS THE CAUSE.
"Cougar" <akbar_aman@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1146358220.795495.137030@i40g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...[color=blue]
> Thank you for helping me out Ray.
> Even after removing the blower motor (fan) and the blower unit case, I
> am unable to find the damper. I am reluctant to remove the upper dash.
> I read on an online manual
> [url]http://oregonstate.edu/~tongt/camry/99/index.html[/url] that the inlet damper
> control cable controls the vent modes. However, I am unable to find
> this cable. The central console, glove box, and lower dash is
> completely disassembled.
> I noticed that the continuity checks on the vent mode switch do not
> meet the results specified in the Chilton's manual. I do not know if
> Chliton's manual is incorrect or the vent mode switch is gone bad. In
> order to see if Chilton's manual is correct, I am thinking to short the
> pins using an electrical wire (as per Chilton's manual) on the cable
> harness that connects to the vent mode switch. Could this cause any
> damage to the electrical wiring of the car?
> I just do not want to buy the vent mode switch unless I am sure if IT
> IS THE CAUSE.[/color]
You can go to [url]http://techinfo.toyota.com/[/url] and pay for daily access to the
factory repair manuals. I believe the fee is $10 U.S. per day.
Shorting the pins on the harness that connects to the vent mode switch
should not cause a problem if it is just switching 12 volts. If it is less
than 12 volts then the switch is electronic and I wouldn't short it.
As far as finding the dampers that control air flow to various vents, listen
under the dash while you move the switch to various positions like defrost,
heat, vent, etc. You can hear better if the fan is on the lowest speed
setting, and you may be able to hear the dampers moving.
Problem Resolved.
It was not the air outlet servo motor, but the plastic piece it
rotates. It was stuck. I just tapped it. It is working fine now.
To reach it, one needs to remove the lower dash panel on driver side,
plus the steering column cover.
I was lucky, that I do not have to take it out. So I just removed the
lower dash panel on the driver side.
It was a great experience.
Thank you Ray for helping me out.
"Cougar" <akbar_aman@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1146485518.862678.77650@i40g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...[color=blue]
> Problem Resolved.
> It was not the air outlet servo motor, but the plastic piece it
> rotates. It was stuck. I just tapped it. It is working fine now.
> To reach it, one needs to remove the lower dash panel on driver side,
> plus the steering column cover.
> I was lucky, that I do not have to take it out. So I just removed the
> lower dash panel on the driver side.
> It was a great experience.
> Thank you Ray for helping me out.
>[/color]
You're welcome, although it sound like you did most of the work, diagnosis,
and repair yourself. Kudos for taking it on!
--
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