repairing rust 88 Corolla

Driver's rear quarter panel rusty about 2 inch circle around wheel well.
It is not rusted through yet but has about 4 one inch circles of rust.
Under the paint I am sure there is more.

Tailgate on this DX model specifically under the tailgate.
About one third to one half has semi crumbly rust. Almost none through
to exterior of tailgate.

Remainder of body good with superficial scratching on hood and driver door.
No other rust spots.

Dark Grey in color. Generally the vehicle looks good now. Has 153K miles.
Just got a tune-up and its mechanically sound daily driver.
I've owned it now for seven years. No fluid leaks. Good tires, good brakes,
new battery. Undercoated underside suprisingly clean.

Ballpark/Guestimate me a price range to fix rust and full paint.
This is in West Virginia/S.E. Ohio.

I had a guy Quote me $3000 and he said the rust will come back in 2 years.
I am curious how realistic this is. Could I buy a tailgate and corner
panel inexpensively and easily?

I figure the car is not worth more than $2K but I like the car and want to
keep it ten more years.

--
NewsGuy.Com 30Gb $9.95 Carry Forward and On Demand Bandwidth

"john" <fred@fishy.net> wrote in message
news:pan.2006.04.26.17.16.44.179445@fishy.net...[color=blue]
> Driver's rear quarter panel rusty about 2 inch circle around wheel well.
> It is not rusted through yet but has about 4 one inch circles of rust.
> Under the paint I am sure there is more.
>
> Tailgate on this DX model specifically under the tailgate.
> About one third to one half has semi crumbly rust. Almost none through
> to exterior of tailgate.
>
> Remainder of body good with superficial scratching on hood and driver
> door.
> No other rust spots.
>
> Dark Grey in color. Generally the vehicle looks good now. Has 153K miles.
> Just got a tune-up and its mechanically sound daily driver.
> I've owned it now for seven years. No fluid leaks. Good tires, good
> brakes,
> new battery. Undercoated underside suprisingly clean.
>
> Ballpark/Guestimate me a price range to fix rust and full paint.
> This is in West Virginia/S.E. Ohio.
>
> I had a guy Quote me $3000 and he said the rust will come back in 2 years.
> I am curious how realistic this is. Could I buy a tailgate and corner
> panel inexpensively and easily?
>
> I figure the car is not worth more than $2K but I like the car and want to
> keep it ten more years.
>
> --
> NewsGuy.Com 30Gb $9.95 Carry Forward and On Demand Bandwidth[/color]

I can tell you if he's quoting $3000 and telling you rust will be back in 2
years you need to look elsewhere!

I had a guy look at my Supra, $2000 and a 5 year guarantee the rust won't
come back!

And that was painting the whole car!!!

On Wed, 26 Apr 2006 18:12:52 +0000, Hachiroku wrote:
[color=blue]
>
> "john" <fred@fishy.net> wrote in message
> news:pan.2006.04.26.17.16.44.179445@fishy.net...[color=green]
>> Driver's rear quarter panel rusty about 2 inch circle around wheel well.
>> It is not rusted through yet but has about 4 one inch circles of rust.
>> Under the paint I am sure there is more.
>>
>> Tailgate on this DX model specifically under the tailgate.
>> About one third to one half has semi crumbly rust. Almost none through
>> to exterior of tailgate.
>>
>> Remainder of body good with superficial scratching on hood and driver
>> door.
>> No other rust spots.
>>
>> Dark Grey in color. Generally the vehicle looks good now. Has 153K miles.
>> Just got a tune-up and its mechanically sound daily driver.
>> I've owned it now for seven years. No fluid leaks. Good tires, good
>> brakes,
>> new battery. Undercoated underside suprisingly clean.
>>
>> Ballpark/Guestimate me a price range to fix rust and full paint.
>> This is in West Virginia/S.E. Ohio.
>>
>> I had a guy Quote me $3000 and he said the rust will come back in 2 years.
>> I am curious how realistic this is. Could I buy a tailgate and corner
>> panel inexpensively and easily?
>>
>> I figure the car is not worth more than $2K but I like the car and want to
>> keep it ten more years.
>>
>> --
>> NewsGuy.Com 30Gb $9.95 Carry Forward and On Demand Bandwidth[/color]
>
> I can tell you if he's quoting $3000 and telling you rust will be back in 2
> years you need to look elsewhere!
>
> I had a guy look at my Supra, $2000 and a 5 year guarantee the rust won't
> come back!
>
> And that was painting the whole car!!![/color]

Well yeah, the quote I got was for a whole car paint also.
I agree, he didn't want to do it. I suppose.

It's a FX not DX, I always get that wrong.

Anyone else get quotes for body/paint work lately?

--
NewsGuy.Com 30Gb $9.95 Carry Forward and On Demand Bandwidth

"john" <fred@fishy.net> wrote in message
news:pan.2006.04.26.20.04.26.693591@fishy.net...[color=blue]
> On Wed, 26 Apr 2006 18:12:52 +0000, Hachiroku wrote:
>[color=green]
>>
>> "john" <fred@fishy.net> wrote in message
>> news:pan.2006.04.26.17.16.44.179445@fishy.net...[color=darkred]
>>> Driver's rear quarter panel rusty about 2 inch circle around wheel well.
>>> It is not rusted through yet but has about 4 one inch circles of rust.
>>> Under the paint I am sure there is more.
>>>
>>> Tailgate on this DX model specifically under the tailgate.
>>> About one third to one half has semi crumbly rust. Almost none through
>>> to exterior of tailgate.
>>>
>>> Remainder of body good with superficial scratching on hood and driver
>>> door.
>>> No other rust spots.
>>>
>>> Dark Grey in color. Generally the vehicle looks good now. Has 153K
>>> miles.
>>> Just got a tune-up and its mechanically sound daily driver.
>>> I've owned it now for seven years. No fluid leaks. Good tires, good
>>> brakes,
>>> new battery. Undercoated underside suprisingly clean.
>>>
>>> Ballpark/Guestimate me a price range to fix rust and full paint.
>>> This is in West Virginia/S.E. Ohio.
>>>
>>> I had a guy Quote me $3000 and he said the rust will come back in 2
>>> years.
>>> I am curious how realistic this is. Could I buy a tailgate and corner
>>> panel inexpensively and easily?
>>>
>>> I figure the car is not worth more than $2K but I like the car and want
>>> to
>>> keep it ten more years.
>>>
>>> --
>>> NewsGuy.Com 30Gb $9.95 Carry Forward and On Demand Bandwidth[/color]
>>
>> I can tell you if he's quoting $3000 and telling you rust will be back in
>> 2
>> years you need to look elsewhere!
>>
>> I had a guy look at my Supra, $2000 and a 5 year guarantee the rust won't
>> come back!
>>
>> And that was painting the whole car!!![/color]
>
> Well yeah, the quote I got was for a whole car paint also.
> I agree, he didn't want to do it. I suppose.
>
> It's a FX not DX, I always get that wrong.
>
> Anyone else get quotes for body/paint work lately?
>[/color]

If it is a Corolla FX, I'd bet Hachiroku would offer to take it off your
hands ;-)

Body and paint work require skill, time, and equipment, and the more you're
willing to pay for those 3 components, the better the quality and durability
of the work. $3,000 for a repaint sounds reasonable to me.
--

Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)

On Wed, 26 Apr 2006 15:46:45 -0500, Ray O <rokigawa@tristarassociatesDOTcomn> wrote:[color=blue][color=green][color=darkred]
>>> "john" <fred@fishy.net> wrote in message
>>> news:pan.2006.04.26.17.16.44.179445@fishy.net...
>>>> I had a guy Quote me $3000 and he said the rust will come back in 2
>>>> years.[/color][/color][/color]
[color=blue]
> Body and paint work require skill, time, and equipment, and the more you're
> willing to pay for those 3 components, the better the quality and durability[/color]

That's all true.
[color=blue]
> of the work. $3,000 for a repaint sounds reasonable to me.[/color]

Not when it comes with a promise that it will be rusty in two years.

sdb


--
Wanted: Omnibook 800 & accessories, cheap, working or not
sdbuse1 on mailhost bigfoot.com

On Wed, 26 Apr 2006 16:04:46 -0400, john wrote:
[color=blue]
> On Wed, 26 Apr 2006 18:12:52 +0000, Hachiroku wrote:
>[color=green]
>>
>> "john" <fred@fishy.net> wrote in message
>> news:pan.2006.04.26.17.16.44.179445@fishy.net...[color=darkred]
>>> Driver's rear quarter panel rusty about 2 inch circle around wheel well.
>>> It is not rusted through yet but has about 4 one inch circles of rust.
>>> Under the paint I am sure there is more.
>>>
>>> Tailgate on this DX model specifically under the tailgate.
>>> About one third to one half has semi crumbly rust. Almost none through
>>> to exterior of tailgate.
>>>
>>> Remainder of body good with superficial scratching on hood and driver
>>> door.
>>> No other rust spots.
>>>
>>> Dark Grey in color. Generally the vehicle looks good now. Has 153K miles.
>>> Just got a tune-up and its mechanically sound daily driver.
>>> I've owned it now for seven years. No fluid leaks. Good tires, good
>>> brakes,
>>> new battery. Undercoated underside suprisingly clean.
>>>
>>> Ballpark/Guestimate me a price range to fix rust and full paint.
>>> This is in West Virginia/S.E. Ohio.
>>>
>>> I had a guy Quote me $3000 and he said the rust will come back in 2 years.
>>> I am curious how realistic this is. Could I buy a tailgate and corner
>>> panel inexpensively and easily?
>>>
>>> I figure the car is not worth more than $2K but I like the car and want to
>>> keep it ten more years.
>>>
>>> --
>>> NewsGuy.Com 30Gb $9.95 Carry Forward and On Demand Bandwidth[/color]
>>
>> I can tell you if he's quoting $3000 and telling you rust will be back in 2
>> years you need to look elsewhere!
>>
>> I had a guy look at my Supra, $2000 and a 5 year guarantee the rust won't
>> come back!
>>
>> And that was painting the whole car!!![/color]
>
> Well yeah, the quote I got was for a whole car paint also.
> I agree, he didn't want to do it. I suppose.
>
> It's a FX not DX, I always get that wrong.
>
> Anyone else get quotes for body/paint work lately?[/color]


Well, I think you should sell it immediately! I'll give you $400!
(They're cool! ;)

On Wed, 26 Apr 2006 15:46:45 -0500, Ray O wrote:
[color=blue]
>
> "john" <fred@fishy.net> wrote in message
> news:pan.2006.04.26.20.04.26.693591@fishy.net...[color=green]
>> On Wed, 26 Apr 2006 18:12:52 +0000, Hachiroku wrote:
>>[color=darkred]
>>>
>>> "john" <fred@fishy.net> wrote in message
>>> news:pan.2006.04.26.17.16.44.179445@fishy.net...
>>>> Driver's rear quarter panel rusty about 2 inch circle around wheel well.
>>>> It is not rusted through yet but has about 4 one inch circles of rust.
>>>> Under the paint I am sure there is more.
>>>>
>>>> Tailgate on this DX model specifically under the tailgate.
>>>> About one third to one half has semi crumbly rust. Almost none through
>>>> to exterior of tailgate.
>>>>
>>>> Remainder of body good with superficial scratching on hood and driver
>>>> door.
>>>> No other rust spots.
>>>>
>>>> Dark Grey in color. Generally the vehicle looks good now. Has 153K
>>>> miles.
>>>> Just got a tune-up and its mechanically sound daily driver.
>>>> I've owned it now for seven years. No fluid leaks. Good tires, good
>>>> brakes,
>>>> new battery. Undercoated underside suprisingly clean.
>>>>
>>>> Ballpark/Guestimate me a price range to fix rust and full paint.
>>>> This is in West Virginia/S.E. Ohio.
>>>>
>>>> I had a guy Quote me $3000 and he said the rust will come back in 2
>>>> years.
>>>> I am curious how realistic this is. Could I buy a tailgate and corner
>>>> panel inexpensively and easily?
>>>>
>>>> I figure the car is not worth more than $2K but I like the car and want
>>>> to
>>>> keep it ten more years.
>>>>
>>>> --
>>>> NewsGuy.Com 30Gb $9.95 Carry Forward and On Demand Bandwidth
>>>
>>> I can tell you if he's quoting $3000 and telling you rust will be back in
>>> 2
>>> years you need to look elsewhere!
>>>
>>> I had a guy look at my Supra, $2000 and a 5 year guarantee the rust won't
>>> come back!
>>>
>>> And that was painting the whole car!!![/color]
>>
>> Well yeah, the quote I got was for a whole car paint also.
>> I agree, he didn't want to do it. I suppose.
>>
>> It's a FX not DX, I always get that wrong.
>>
>> Anyone else get quotes for body/paint work lately?
>>[/color]
>
> If it is a Corolla FX, I'd bet Hachiroku would offer to take it off your
> hands ;-)[/color]

Ooooo...he don't know me very well, do he?

I didn't even READ this before I ran my yap!

And why in HELL am I stuck at MoonBat?!?!?!


[color=blue]
>
> Body and paint work require skill, time, and equipment, and the more you're
> willing to pay for those 3 components, the better the quality and durability
> of the work. $3,000 for a repaint sounds reasonable to me.[/color]

On Wed, 26 Apr 2006 16:04:46 -0400, john wrote:
[color=blue]
> On Wed, 26 Apr 2006 18:12:52 +0000, Hachiroku wrote:
>[color=green]
>>
>> "john" <fred@fishy.net> wrote in message
>> news:pan.2006.04.26.17.16.44.179445@fishy.net...[color=darkred]
>>> Driver's rear quarter panel rusty about 2 inch circle around wheel well.
>>> It is not rusted through yet but has about 4 one inch circles of rust.
>>> Under the paint I am sure there is more.
>>>
>>> Tailgate on this DX model specifically under the tailgate.
>>> About one third to one half has semi crumbly rust. Almost none through
>>> to exterior of tailgate.
>>>
>>> Remainder of body good with superficial scratching on hood and driver
>>> door.
>>> No other rust spots.
>>>
>>> Dark Grey in color. Generally the vehicle looks good now. Has 153K miles.
>>> Just got a tune-up and its mechanically sound daily driver.
>>> I've owned it now for seven years. No fluid leaks. Good tires, good
>>> brakes,
>>> new battery. Undercoated underside suprisingly clean.
>>>
>>> Ballpark/Guestimate me a price range to fix rust and full paint.
>>> This is in West Virginia/S.E. Ohio.
>>>
>>> I had a guy Quote me $3000 and he said the rust will come back in 2 years.
>>> I am curious how realistic this is. Could I buy a tailgate and corner
>>> panel inexpensively and easily?
>>>
>>> I figure the car is not worth more than $2K but I like the car and want to
>>> keep it ten more years.
>>>
>>> --
>>> NewsGuy.Com 30Gb $9.95 Carry Forward and On Demand Bandwidth[/color]
>>
>> I can tell you if he's quoting $3000 and telling you rust will be back in 2
>> years you need to look elsewhere!
>>
>> I had a guy look at my Supra, $2000 and a 5 year guarantee the rust won't
>> come back!
>>
>> And that was painting the whole car!!![/color]
>
> Well yeah, the quote I got was for a whole car paint also.
> I agree, he didn't want to do it. I suppose.
>
> It's a FX not DX, I always get that wrong.
>
> Anyone else get quotes for body/paint work lately?[/color]

Let's try again using the right nym...

"sylvan butler" <ZsdbUse1+noZs_0604@Zbigfoot.Zcom.invalid> wrote in message
news:slrne50140.p72.ZsdbUse1+noZs_0604@sdba64.internal...[color=blue]
> On Wed, 26 Apr 2006 15:46:45 -0500, Ray O
> <rokigawa@tristarassociatesDOTcomn> wrote:[color=green][color=darkred]
>>>> "john" <fred@fishy.net> wrote in message
>>>> news:pan.2006.04.26.17.16.44.179445@fishy.net...
>>>>> I had a guy Quote me $3000 and he said the rust will come back in 2
>>>>> years.[/color][/color]
>[color=green]
>> Body and paint work require skill, time, and equipment, and the more
>> you're
>> willing to pay for those 3 components, the better the quality and
>> durability[/color]
>
> That's all true.
>[color=green]
>> of the work. $3,000 for a repaint sounds reasonable to me.[/color]
>
> Not when it comes with a promise that it will be rusty in two years.
>
> sdb[/color]

Good point about the rust coming back. My guess is that the estimator was
covering his behind in case it did.
--

Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)

Do it yourself. First mask off the affected areas. Then physically remove as
much of the loose rust with brushes and rough sand paper. A sand blast down
to clean metal would be the best. Assuming some dark areas and non-removable
rust remains, clean the area by spraying with brake cleaner. After it is dry
apply lots of rust fixing gel or spray. This should be repeated several
times over two days. The rust will turn black. Then prime the area and go on
to basic body fill and fiberglass patch work as needed. Once the area is
clean and smooth it can be painted to match.

The best approach is to replace the sections or locate rust repair sections
and have the rusted areas cut out and the rust repair sections welded in.

In your case I would find a used hatch at the junk yard in the same color if
it is badly rusted and find out if rust repair sections are available for
your vehicle.

Richard.

"Richard" <rfeirste@nycap.rr.com> wrote in message
news:1251n194abf8279@corp.supernews.com...[color=blue]
> Do it yourself. First mask off the affected areas. Then physically remove
> as much of the loose rust with brushes and rough sand paper. A sand blast
> down to clean metal would be the best. Assuming some dark areas and
> non-removable rust remains, clean the area by spraying with brake cleaner.
> After it is dry apply lots of rust fixing gel or spray. This should be
> repeated several times over two days. The rust will turn black. Then prime
> the area and go on to basic body fill and fiberglass patch work as needed.
> Once the area is clean and smooth it can be painted to match.
>
> The best approach is to replace the sections or locate rust repair
> sections and have the rusted areas cut out and the rust repair sections
> welded in.
>
> In your case I would find a used hatch at the junk yard in the same color
> if it is badly rusted and find out if rust repair sections are available
> for your vehicle.
>
> Richard.[/color]

I like 'lead filler' (solder) better, myself, esp for a car you are planning
on keeping for a while.
I can find solder body filler, but I haven't been able to locate the 'lead
paste' we used to use in the Good Ol Days.
I think they have done away with it in favor of the soldering method.

In the OP's case, these cars are VERY popular on the Used Car Market; I get
people asking me where they can get one all the time.
It would be worth the effort to have the job done correctly, and then see if
you can have the car oiled afterwards.

"Hachiroku" <Trueno@ae86.GTS> wrote in message
news:US64g.4988$7c.367@trndny01...[color=blue]
>
> "Richard" <rfeirste@nycap.rr.com> wrote in message
> news:1251n194abf8279@corp.supernews.com...[color=green]
>> Do it yourself. First mask off the affected areas. Then physically remove
>> as much of the loose rust with brushes and rough sand paper. A sand blast
>> down to clean metal would be the best. Assuming some dark areas and
>> non-removable rust remains, clean the area by spraying with brake
>> cleaner. After it is dry apply lots of rust fixing gel or spray. This
>> should be repeated several times over two days. The rust will turn black.
>> Then prime the area and go on to basic body fill and fiberglass patch
>> work as needed. Once the area is clean and smooth it can be painted to
>> match.
>>
>> The best approach is to replace the sections or locate rust repair
>> sections and have the rusted areas cut out and the rust repair sections
>> welded in.
>>
>> In your case I would find a used hatch at the junk yard in the same color
>> if it is badly rusted and find out if rust repair sections are available
>> for your vehicle.
>>
>> Richard.[/color]
>
> I like 'lead filler' (solder) better, myself, esp for a car you are
> planning on keeping for a while.
> I can find solder body filler, but I haven't been able to locate the 'lead
> paste' we used to use in the Good Ol Days.
> I think they have done away with it in favor of the soldering method.
>
> In the OP's case, these cars are VERY popular on the Used Car Market; I
> get people asking me where they can get one all the time.
> It would be worth the effort to have the job done correctly, and then see
> if you can have the car oiled afterwards.[/color]

My uncle made cars at Rolls Royce and Chevy (in the USA) in the good old
days and told us stories of filling the seams with lead, etc. In his older
years he had health problems related to his environmental lead exposure.
I'll stick with the filler products used today if you don't mind.

Richard.[color=blue]
>
>[/color]

Clean the surface rust off, sand, apply metal conditioner (phosphoric acid
mixture) and paint with POR-15. Its nearly 20 years old - it will give it
another 5. Sure not worth 2-3k to repair. A sand blaster will remove all
the rust but guarantee you'll be left with rusted thru holes.

"john" <fred@fishy.net> wrote in message
news:pan.2006.04.26.17.16.44.179445@fishy.net...[color=blue]
> Driver's rear quarter panel rusty about 2 inch circle around wheel well.
> It is not rusted through yet but has about 4 one inch circles of rust.
> Under the paint I am sure there is more.
>
> Tailgate on this DX model specifically under the tailgate.
> About one third to one half has semi crumbly rust. Almost none through
> to exterior of tailgate.
>
> Remainder of body good with superficial scratching on hood and driver
> door.
> No other rust spots.
>
> Dark Grey in color. Generally the vehicle looks good now. Has 153K miles.
> Just got a tune-up and its mechanically sound daily driver.
> I've owned it now for seven years. No fluid leaks. Good tires, good
> brakes,
> new battery. Undercoated underside suprisingly clean.
>
> Ballpark/Guestimate me a price range to fix rust and full paint.
> This is in West Virginia/S.E. Ohio.
>
> I had a guy Quote me $3000 and he said the rust will come back in 2 years.
> I am curious how realistic this is. Could I buy a tailgate and corner
> panel inexpensively and easily?
>
> I figure the car is not worth more than $2K but I like the car and want to
> keep it ten more years.
>
> --
> NewsGuy.Com 30Gb $9.95 Carry Forward and On Demand Bandwidth[/color]

On Thu, 27 Apr 2006 17:07:00 +0000, Hachiroku wrote:
[color=blue]
>
> "Richard" <rfeirste@nycap.rr.com> wrote in message
> news:1251n194abf8279@corp.supernews.com...[color=green]
>> Do it yourself. First mask off the affected areas. Then physically remove
>> as much of the loose rust with brushes and rough sand paper. A sand blast
>> down to clean metal would be the best. Assuming some dark areas and
>> non-removable rust remains, clean the area by spraying with brake cleaner.
>> After it is dry apply lots of rust fixing gel or spray. This should be
>> repeated several times over two days. The rust will turn black. Then prime
>> the area and go on to basic body fill and fiberglass patch work as needed.
>> Once the area is clean and smooth it can be painted to match.
>>
>> The best approach is to replace the sections or locate rust repair
>> sections and have the rusted areas cut out and the rust repair sections
>> welded in.
>>
>> In your case I would find a used hatch at the junk yard in the same color
>> if it is badly rusted and find out if rust repair sections are available
>> for your vehicle.
>>
>> Richard.[/color]
>
> I like 'lead filler' (solder) better, myself, esp for a car you are planning
> on keeping for a while.
> I can find solder body filler, but I haven't been able to locate the 'lead
> paste' we used to use in the Good Ol Days.
> I think they have done away with it in favor of the soldering method.
>
> In the OP's case, these cars are VERY popular on the Used Car Market; I get
> people asking me where they can get one all the time.
> It would be worth the effort to have the job done correctly, and then see if
> you can have the car oiled afterwards.[/color]

Thanks for the replies!

Oiled?
In what way?


--
NewsGuy.Com 30Gb $9.95 Carry Forward and On Demand Bandwidth

"Richard" <rfeirste@nycap.rr.com> wrote in message
news:1252ap7pbfb8n68@corp.supernews.com...[color=blue]
>
> "Hachiroku" <Trueno@ae86.GTS> wrote in message
> news:US64g.4988$7c.367@trndny01...[color=green]
>>
>> "Richard" <rfeirste@nycap.rr.com> wrote in message
>> news:1251n194abf8279@corp.supernews.com...[color=darkred]
>>> Do it yourself. First mask off the affected areas. Then physically
>>> remove as much of the loose rust with brushes and rough sand paper. A
>>> sand blast down to clean metal would be the best. Assuming some dark
>>> areas and non-removable rust remains, clean the area by spraying with
>>> brake cleaner. After it is dry apply lots of rust fixing gel or spray.
>>> This should be repeated several times over two days. The rust will turn
>>> black. Then prime the area and go on to basic body fill and fiberglass
>>> patch work as needed. Once the area is clean and smooth it can be
>>> painted to match.
>>>
>>> The best approach is to replace the sections or locate rust repair
>>> sections and have the rusted areas cut out and the rust repair sections
>>> welded in.
>>>
>>> In your case I would find a used hatch at the junk yard in the same
>>> color if it is badly rusted and find out if rust repair sections are
>>> available for your vehicle.
>>>
>>> Richard.[/color]
>>
>> I like 'lead filler' (solder) better, myself, esp for a car you are
>> planning on keeping for a while.
>> I can find solder body filler, but I haven't been able to locate the
>> 'lead paste' we used to use in the Good Ol Days.
>> I think they have done away with it in favor of the soldering method.
>>
>> In the OP's case, these cars are VERY popular on the Used Car Market; I
>> get people asking me where they can get one all the time.
>> It would be worth the effort to have the job done correctly, and then see
>> if you can have the car oiled afterwards.[/color]
>
> My uncle made cars at Rolls Royce and Chevy (in the USA) in the good old
> days and told us stories of filling the seams with lead, etc. In his older
> years he had health problems related to his environmental lead exposure.
> I'll stick with the filler products used today if you don't mind.
>
> Richard.[/color]

Yeah, lead was used because it was metal and they didn't have polymers back
then.

Damn, Rolls Royces? That means he was in the Springfield MA area, which
ALMOST became Detroit!
And it was also somewhere right around the start of the Depression.

Lead is easy to work, smoothes nicely and doesn't shrink like plastic and
certainly doesn't crack!

If you're looking to do a serious repair (And on an FX I would consider
it...) then lead is a very good way to go.
These cars have quite a cult following and a good example can draw more than
the car should be worth!