Transmission problem (I guess)

Well, to cut a long story short...there's a fork in the road - I can go
left or right. Instead I went right up the middle over curb.

Upon examination of the damage the wheel is busted which isn't a big
problem. The engine still has oil and starts so that it ok, however the
bottom plate of the transmission fluid resevoir has a gash in it and the
fluid is now pooling on the floor.

I decided to see if the car would actually move, it was stiff moving it
out of park into reverse but it didn't go anywhere.

Right now, I'm looking for speculation on exactly what the problem may
be. I have no idea what is on the other side of the plate but I know it
has an awful lot of bolts to remove.

So, please, any suggestions other than taking it to a transmission shop.
I'm pretty good at following directions when fixing stuff so I am
wondering if this is likely to be something minor, major or very major.

Appreciate any input.


Regards
Nigel
--
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"I reject your reality and substitute it with my own" --Adam Savage.

"Nigel Reed" <see@www.nelgin.nu-slash-qconfirm.html.invalid> wrote in
message news:8f80j3-lp5.ln1@wibble.nelgin.nu...[color=blue]
> Well, to cut a long story short...there's a fork in the road - I can go
> left or right. Instead I went right up the middle over curb.
>
> Upon examination of the damage the wheel is busted which isn't a big
> problem. The engine still has oil and starts so that it ok, however the
> bottom plate of the transmission fluid resevoir has a gash in it and the
> fluid is now pooling on the floor.
>
> I decided to see if the car would actually move, it was stiff moving it
> out of park into reverse but it didn't go anywhere.
>
> Right now, I'm looking for speculation on exactly what the problem may
> be. I have no idea what is on the other side of the plate but I know it
> has an awful lot of bolts to remove.
>
> So, please, any suggestions other than taking it to a transmission shop.
> I'm pretty good at following directions when fixing stuff so I am
> wondering if this is likely to be something minor, major or very major.
>
> Appreciate any input.
>
>
> Regards
> Nigel
> --[/color]

The transmission needs fluid to operate. If a substantial portion of the
automatic transmission fluid (ATF) has leaked out, then the vehicle will not
move.

You are going to need a new transmission pan, transmission pan gasket, the
correct ATF for your car as noted on the transmission dipstick and in your
owner's manual. You may need a new transmission screen as well.

Remove all the bolts on the transmission pan, check out the screen to make
sure it is not damaged. Also check out the valve body (the maze-like thing
on the on the bottom of the transmission and make sure no pieces look broken
off. If all is OK, install the new gasket, put it back together, refill
with ATF.
--

Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)

Ray O <rokigawa@tristarassociatesdotcomn> wrote:[color=blue]
> The transmission needs fluid to operate. If a substantial portion of the
> automatic transmission fluid (ATF) has leaked out, then the vehicle will not
> move.[/color]

So, there is absolutely no way that if I stuck it into reverse it would
move without the fluid? That makes me a little more confident that the
problem isn't as bad as I think then.

I didn't add that when I tried to move from part to reverse, it was a
little stuff.

Not quite sure how I'm going to get this thing onto wheel ramps since it
wont actually move. Rather use those than axle jacks.

Regards
Nigel
--
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"Nigel Reed" <see@www.nelgin.nu-slash-qconfirm.html.invalid> wrote in
message news:qtc0j3-8u5.ln1@wibble.nelgin.nu...[color=blue]
> Ray O <rokigawa@tristarassociatesdotcomn> wrote:[color=green]
>> The transmission needs fluid to operate. If a substantial portion of the
>> automatic transmission fluid (ATF) has leaked out, then the vehicle will
>> not
>> move.[/color]
>
> So, there is absolutely no way that if I stuck it into reverse it would
> move without the fluid? That makes me a little more confident that the
> problem isn't as bad as I think then.
>
> I didn't add that when I tried to move from part to reverse, it was a
> little stuff.
>
> Not quite sure how I'm going to get this thing onto wheel ramps since it
> wont actually move. Rather use those than axle jacks.
>
> Regards
> Nigel
> --
> [url]www.myoldcontacts.com[/url] - Tell your friends to tell their friends
> [url]www.sysadmininc.com[/url] - Consultancy, Service, Sales, Networking...
> [url]www.british-expats.com[/url] - Connect with British Expats World Wide
>
>
> "I reject your reality and substitute it with my own" --Adam Savage.[/color]

jack it up then put the ramps under. it would be my guess that you have
damaged the linkage too, since a lack of oil would make no difference to the
selection

[url]http://groups.google.com.tr/group/Taner___53_01?lnk=li&hl=tr[/url]

mrcheerful . <nbkm57@hotmail.com> wrote:[color=blue]
>
> jack it up then put the ramps under. it would be my guess that you have
> damaged the linkage too, since a lack of oil would make no difference to the
> selection[/color]

Damaged the linkage?


Regards
Nigel
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"I reject your reality and substitute it with my own" --Adam Savage.

"Nigel Reed" <see@www.nelgin.nu-slash-qconfirm.html.invalid> wrote in
message news:qtc0j3-8u5.ln1@wibble.nelgin.nu...[color=blue]
> Ray O <rokigawa@tristarassociatesdotcomn> wrote:[color=green]
>> The transmission needs fluid to operate. If a substantial portion of the
>> automatic transmission fluid (ATF) has leaked out, then the vehicle will
>> not
>> move.[/color]
>
> So, there is absolutely no way that if I stuck it into reverse it would
> move without the fluid? That makes me a little more confident that the
> problem isn't as bad as I think then.
>
> I didn't add that when I tried to move from part to reverse, it was a
> little stuff.
>
> Not quite sure how I'm going to get this thing onto wheel ramps since it
> wont actually move. Rather use those than axle jacks.
>
> Regards
> Nigel
> --[/color]

If enough fluid has leaked out, it will not move because the torque
converter needs fluid to transmit power from the engine to the transmission.
If it does move in reverse and there is a hole in the transmission pan,
there are many reasons why it won't move forward. The linkage may be
damaged; the valve body may be damaged; or the transmission is not
developing enough pressure to activate pistons that engage the friction
surfaces. Unfortunately, a damaged valve body will be expensive to repair.
I would not recommend moving the car more than necessary as you can wear out
the friction surfaces.
--

Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)

Ray O <rokigawa@tristarassociatesdotcomn> wrote:[color=blue]
> surfaces. Unfortunately, a damaged valve body will be expensive to repair.
> I would not recommend moving the car more than necessary as you can wear out
> the friction surfaces.[/color]

Is that something I can attempt myself, given the right tools? The car
would only need to be towed about 3 miles. I'd rather try the least
expensive options first. A new transmission pan and ATF is cheaper than
a new transmission. :|

Regards
Nigel
--
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"I reject your reality and substitute it with my own" --Adam Savage.

"Nigel Reed" <see@www.nelgin.nu-slash-qconfirm.html.invalid> wrote in
message news:hq03j3-7vb.ln1@wibble.nelgin.nu...[color=blue]
> Ray O <rokigawa@tristarassociatesdotcomn> wrote:[color=green]
>> surfaces. Unfortunately, a damaged valve body will be expensive to
>> repair.
>> I would not recommend moving the car more than necessary as you can wear
>> out
>> the friction surfaces.[/color]
>
> Is that something I can attempt myself, given the right tools? The car
> would only need to be towed about 3 miles. I'd rather try the least
> expensive options first. A new transmission pan and ATF is cheaper than
> a new transmission. :|
>
> Regards
> Nigel
> --[/color]

Replacing the transmission pan is not technically difficult. Get a new pan
and gasket, remove the old one, install the new one, tightening the bolts
evenly in a star or crisscross pattern, refill the ATF.
--

Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)

Ray O <rokigawa@tristarassociatesdotcomn> wrote:[color=blue]
> Replacing the transmission pan is not technically difficult. Get a new pan
> and gasket, remove the old one, install the new one, tightening the bolts
> evenly in a star or crisscross pattern, refill the ATF.[/color]

Yup, I've done that before, no problem there - I'm concerned about
things getting deeper.



Regards
Nigel
--
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"I reject your reality and substitute it with my own" --Adam Savage.

On Sun, 07 May 2006 18:30:01 GMT, Nigel Reed
<see@www.nelgin.nu-slash-qconfirm.html.invalid> wrote:[color=blue]
>mrcheerful <nbkm57@hotmail.com> wrote:[/color]
[color=blue][color=green]
>> jack it up then put the ramps under. it would be my guess that you have
>> damaged the linkage too, since a lack of oil would make no difference to the
>> selection[/color]
>
>Damaged the linkage?[/color]

If you dented the oil pan on the transmission and jammed the
internal levers, or hit the windage tray or other sheetmetal part
under the engine with the curb and stuffed it into the external
linkages, you could jam the shift linkage.

Even if the lever inside the car moves, it might not be moving by
the time it gets to the transmission. Or it might only move a few
millimeters instead of it's normal range.

You need to get under there and look. The safest way is to jack it
up and drop it onto the ramps (or some 4X8 timber blocks) to get some
altitude, and then place a set of jackstands under the chassis rails
as insurance. (Belt and Suspenders.)

And do not be all alone while you are under there, make sure the
wife or a friend or neighbor is around, and either hangs out or checks
up on you every few minutes - On the rare chance that you manage to
drop the car on some part of your body, you want someone around to
call 911 and grab the jack.

--<< Bruce >>--

--
Bruce L. Bergman, Woodland Hills (Los Angeles) CA - Desktop
Electrician for Westend Electric - CA726700
5737 Kanan Rd. #359, Agoura CA 91301 (818) 889-9545
Spamtrapped address: Remove the python and the invalid, and use a net.

Bruce L. Bergman <blPYTHONbergman@earthlink.invalid> wrote:[color=blue]
> You need to get under there and look. The safest way is to jack it
> up and drop it onto the ramps (or some 4X8 timber blocks) to get some
> altitude, and then place a set of jackstands under the chassis rails
> as insurance. (Belt and Suspenders.)[/color]

Maybe I'll do that and post some pics on a website. Maybe you can tell
me what looks normal or not?
[color=blue]
> And do not be all alone while you are under there, make sure the
> wife or a friend or neighbor is around, and either hangs out or checks
> up on you every few minutes - On the rare chance that you manage to
> drop the car on some part of your body, you want someone around to
> call 911 and grab the jack.[/color]

Good advice, thank you.

Regards
Nigel
--
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"I reject your reality and substitute it with my own" --Adam Savage.

"Nigel Reed" <see@www.nelgin.nu-slash-qconfirm.html.invalid> wrote in
message news:8d04j3-266.ln1@wibble.nelgin.nu...[color=blue]
> Bruce L. Bergman <blPYTHONbergman@earthlink.invalid> wrote:[color=green]
>> You need to get under there and look. The safest way is to jack it
>> up and drop it onto the ramps (or some 4X8 timber blocks) to get some
>> altitude, and then place a set of jackstands under the chassis rails
>> as insurance. (Belt and Suspenders.)[/color]
>
> Maybe I'll do that and post some pics on a website. Maybe you can tell
> me what looks normal or not?
>[color=green]
>> And do not be all alone while you are under there, make sure the
>> wife or a friend or neighbor is around, and either hangs out or checks
>> up on you every few minutes - On the rare chance that you manage to
>> drop the car on some part of your body, you want someone around to
>> call 911 and grab the jack.[/color]
>
> Good advice, thank you.
>
> Regards
> Nigel[/color]

As usual, Bruce's advice is very thorough, detailed, and useful!
--

Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)

Ray O <rokigawa@tristarassociatesdotcomn> wrote:[color=blue]
> As usual, Bruce's advice is very thorough, detailed, and useful![/color]

Well, this doesn't look good. Any advice here would be appreciated, not
even sure where to start unbolting stuff.

[url]http://www.nelgin.nu/~nigelreed/car1.jpg[/url]
[url]http://www.nelgin.nu/~nigelreed/car2.jpg[/url]

This last one is of inside the wheel.
[url]http://www.nelgin.nu/~nigelreed/car3.jpg[/url]


As far as I can tell, that is the 'only' damage.

Regards
Nigel
--
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"I reject your reality and substitute it with my own" --Adam Savage.

On Mon, 08 May 2006 21:20:00 GMT, Nigel Reed
<see@www.nelgin.nu-slash-qconfirm.html.invalid> wrote:[color=blue]
>Ray O <rokigawa@tristarassociatesdotcomn> wrote:[color=green]
>> As usual, Bruce's advice is very thorough, detailed, and useful![/color][/color]

Hey, I try. ;-)
[color=blue]
>Well, this doesn't look good. Any advice here would be appreciated, not
>even sure where to start unbolting stuff.
>
>[url]http://www.nelgin.nu/~nigelreed/car1.jpg[/url]
>[url]http://www.nelgin.nu/~nigelreed/car2.jpg[/url]
>
>This last one is of inside the wheel.
>[url]http://www.nelgin.nu/~nigelreed/car3.jpg[/url]
>
>
>As far as I can tell, that is the 'only' damage.[/color]

I can't tell - everything's coming up 404, including the domain.
But look for any sheetmetal parts that are obviously pushed way out of
position - and from the sound of your 'only', you have a bodyshop
bonanza under there...

--<< Bruce >>--

--
Bruce L. Bergman, Woodland Hills (Los Angeles) CA - Desktop
Electrician for Westend Electric - CA726700
5737 Kanan Rd. #359, Agoura CA 91301 (818) 889-9545
Spamtrapped address: Remove the python and the invalid, and use a net.