Trouble with 93 Corolla. Please help!!!

Hellp,

I'm having problems with my 1993 Toyota Corolla LE, and I'm hoping for some
advice from any Toyota sauvey mechanics. I'll list the problems in list
order so they're easier to follow. Thanks for the belp.

Start-up trouble: No, it's not the battery, I just had it replaced. Most
likely not the starter as it does try to start but is not always able to
turnover. Sometimes tapping the gas at the right time after turning the
ignition will get it going. This problem does not happen everytime I try to
start the car, but on enough occasions to make it quite annoying. I've
noticed to that it may happen more on warm/hot days.

Idle issues: This may or may not be related to the start-up trouble since I
notice this too seems to happen more on hot days. When I'm at a stoplight,
the car will sometimes start to idle really low likes it's going to die and
then come back up again. Once it gets going, it will do this repeatedly
until I step on the gas. It's never actually died, but the whole car
trembles like it's going to. Refering to the issue above, when the car is
having problem starting, usually once I'm able to get it started the idle is
pretty week at first. It's leading me to believe these two problems may
somehow be related....

Buring oil: I'm fairly certain the car is burning oil; I get a think
white/bluish cloud of smoke on a lot of mornings. The mechanics at Toyota
told me several months ago my engine was burning oil and they could fix it
for me by replacing half of my engine for $7000. I said, no thanks, I'd
rather just buy a new car for that much! I took it to another place and
they told me that it's most likely the valve seals, but there'd be no way to
tell for certain until they were able to get in there and see, and just
cracking open the engine would run me about $2000. My questions is, how
likely is it that it could be the seals? What else could it be? I have
issues with paying $2000 for them to open the issue only to tell me it's
someting more severe than seals and will cost me much more to fix. I
wouldn't be able to continue with the repairs yet I will have been out the
$2000 it cost me just for them to tell me that. I do regular oil changes
every 3500 miles. I notice that the car runs low on oil, and I generally
have to refill before I'm scheduled for a change.

Smell: This is probably related to the oil situation, but I just want to be
certain. My car smells incredibly toxic, like gasoline or oil, whenever
it's strained. Mainly, for example, going up steep inclines or speeding up
on the freeway. For instance, I have this one hill I have to drive up
everyday near my school, and I notice that when I get to work a few minutes
later and park-up, the car just reaks. I'd like to keep my car, which means
I'd like to fix my car. I'm an environmentally-friendly person, I hate
putting toxins in the air, but I'm a student right now, and buying a new car
is probably going to be at least a year off for me. Hopefully someone out
there will have some helpful information to shed light on my problems.
Unfortunately, I haven't come across any knowledgeable mechanics that have
been able to fix the problems thus far, and I've been to quite a few.

Rough estimates on prices would be an awesome help too! That way I know
whether I'm getting ripped off or not.

Thank you.

I have a 2002 Corolla and when I had some hard start up issues and
rough idle... this is what the crap dealer did to me.

I had the idle air control cleaned. MAF cleaned. Everything checked
out OK.

Then they replaced the Idle Air Control Valve... still had issues.

After about 2 months with 5 people dicking with it, the dealer found
that one injector was leaking. After they fixed that injector my
mileage went back up, the idle problem went away, and the rough starts
are gone.

I'd check all that crap out. MAF sensor, air filter, idle air stuff,
throttle body, and the injectors.

California Girl wrote:[color=blue]
> Hellp,
>
> I'm having problems with my 1993 Toyota Corolla LE, and I'm hoping for some
> advice from any Toyota sauvey mechanics. I'll list the problems in list
> order so they're easier to follow. Thanks for the belp.
>
> Start-up trouble: No, it's not the battery, I just had it replaced. Most
> likely not the starter as it does try to start but is not always able to
> turnover. Sometimes tapping the gas at the right time after turning the
> ignition will get it going. This problem does not happen everytime I try to
> start the car, but on enough occasions to make it quite annoying. I've
> noticed to that it may happen more on warm/hot days.
>
> Idle issues: This may or may not be related to the start-up trouble since I
> notice this too seems to happen more on hot days. When I'm at a stoplight,
> the car will sometimes start to idle really low likes it's going to die and
> then come back up again. Once it gets going, it will do this repeatedly
> until I step on the gas. It's never actually died, but the whole car
> trembles like it's going to. Refering to the issue above, when the car is
> having problem starting, usually once I'm able to get it started the idle is
> pretty week at first. It's leading me to believe these two problems may
> somehow be related....[/color]

Could be. Aside from all the advice you'll undoubtedly get, also
suspect a vacuum leak somewhere.[color=blue]
>
> Buring oil: I'm fairly certain the car is burning oil; I get a think
> white/bluish cloud of smoke on a lot of mornings. The mechanics at Toyota
> told me several months ago my engine was burning oil and they could fix it
> for me by replacing half of my engine for $7000. I said, no thanks, I'd
> rather just buy a new car for that much! I took it to another place and
> they told me that it's most likely the valve seals, but there'd be no way to
> tell for certain until they were able to get in there and see, and just
> cracking open the engine would run me about $2000. My questions is, how
> likely is it that it could be the seals? What else could it be? I have
> issues with paying $2000 for them to open the issue only to tell me it's
> someting more severe than seals and will cost me much more to fix. I
> wouldn't be able to continue with the repairs yet I will have been out the
> $2000 it cost me just for them to tell me that. I do regular oil changes
> every 3500 miles. I notice that the car runs low on oil, and I generally
> have to refill before I'm scheduled for a change.
>[/color]
Sounds like you're burning 'some' oil at least. Not much, though. If
you add a quart in 3k miles, I wouldn't worry too much about it. The
start up cloud is almost certainly valve seals...something else which is
annoying, but not too worrisome on an old car if it goes away after
warmup. Try a 'high mileage' oil next change. (You didn't mention how
many miles it has.) I did that and my morning cloud all but disappeared..

Any puddles under the car? That could relate to both the above (oil
consumption) and the below (oil leaking on hot parts).
[color=blue]
> Smell: This is probably related to the oil situation, but I just want to be
> certain. My car smells incredibly toxic, like gasoline or oil, whenever
> it's strained. Mainly, for example, going up steep inclines or speeding up
> on the freeway. For instance, I have this one hill I have to drive up
> everyday near my school, and I notice that when I get to work a few minutes
> later and park-up, the car just reaks. I'd like to keep my car, which means
> I'd like to fix my car. I'm an environmentally-friendly person, I hate
> putting toxins in the air, but I'm a student right now, and buying a new car
> is probably going to be at least a year off for me. Hopefully someone out
> there will have some helpful information to shed light on my problems.
> Unfortunately, I haven't come across any knowledgeable mechanics that have
> been able to fix the problems thus far, and I've been to quite a few.
>[/color]
You've got an old car. While it's admirable to want it to be perfect,
part of the experience of owning one is that you live with a few minor
problems. You 'could' throw enough money at it to make it like new, but
why? You might as well buy a newer one. If it gets you there and back,
fix what you can and live with the rest.
[color=blue]
> Rough estimates on prices would be an awesome help too! That way I know
> whether I'm getting ripped off or not.
>
> Thank you.
>
>
>[/color]

"California Girl" <CalGirl@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:Ejvag.28306$4L1.17812@newssvr11.news.prodigy.com...[color=blue]
> Hellp,
>
> I'm having problems with my 1993 Toyota Corolla LE, and I'm hoping for
> some advice from any Toyota sauvey mechanics. I'll list the problems in
> list order so they're easier to follow. Thanks for the belp.
>
> Start-up trouble: No, it's not the battery, I just had it replaced. Most
> likely not the starter as it does try to start but is not always able to
> turnover. Sometimes tapping the gas at the right time after turning the
> ignition will get it going. This problem does not happen everytime I try
> to start the car, but on enough occasions to make it quite annoying. I've
> noticed to that it may happen more on warm/hot days.[/color]

Sounds like the starter relay contacts may be worn. Inspect them for wear.
The contacts can be replaced and are less expensive than a new relay or new
starter.
[color=blue]
>
> Idle issues: This may or may not be related to the start-up trouble since
> I notice this too seems to happen more on hot days. When I'm at a
> stoplight, the car will sometimes start to idle really low likes it's
> going to die and then come back up again. Once it gets going, it will do
> this repeatedly until I step on the gas. It's never actually died, but
> the whole car trembles like it's going to. Refering to the issue above,
> when the car is having problem starting, usually once I'm able to get it
> started the idle is pretty week at first. It's leading me to believe
> these two problems may somehow be related....
>[/color]

Several things can cause this condition. It is not likely that the
condition is related to the hard start condition. If the car has AC, it is
possible that the AC idle-up circuit is not working correctly. It is
possible that you have a vacuum leak or leak in the hose between the air
filter and throttle body. Other possibilites are clogged air filter,
clogged injectors, or problems with the air flow sensor or idle air control
valve.
[color=blue]
> Buring oil: I'm fairly certain the car is burning oil; I get a think
> white/bluish cloud of smoke on a lot of mornings. The mechanics at Toyota
> told me several months ago my engine was burning oil and they could fix it
> for me by replacing half of my engine for $7000. I said, no thanks, I'd
> rather just buy a new car for that much! I took it to another place and
> they told me that it's most likely the valve seals, but there'd be no way
> to tell for certain until they were able to get in there and see, and just
> cracking open the engine would run me about $2000. My questions is, how
> likely is it that it could be the seals? What else could it be? I have
> issues with paying $2000 for them to open the issue only to tell me it's
> someting more severe than seals and will cost me much more to fix. I
> wouldn't be able to continue with the repairs yet I will have been out the
> $2000 it cost me just for them to tell me that. I do regular oil changes
> every 3500 miles. I notice that the car runs low on oil, and I generally
> have to refill before I'm scheduled for a change.
>[/color]

Bluish smoke on startup after sitting overnight is a classic symptom of
leaking valve stem seals. The higher oil consumption also points to valve
stem seals since you did not say that you are getting smoke at other times.
I would ask another dealership or shop for a quote on diagnosis and
replacement of the valve stem seals if warranted. You should be able to get
the valve stem seals replaced for a lot less than $2000, more like $500 to
$700.

Another possible cause of the oil usage is an external leak from the valve
cover gasket, crankshaft seals, oil pan, or head gasket.
[color=blue]
> Smell: This is probably related to the oil situation, but I just want to
> be certain. My car smells incredibly toxic, like gasoline or oil,
> whenever it's strained. Mainly, for example, going up steep inclines or
> speeding up on the freeway. For instance, I have this one hill I have to
> drive up everyday near my school, and I notice that when I get to work a
> few minutes later and park-up, the car just reaks. I'd like to keep my
> car, which means I'd like to fix my car. I'm an environmentally-friendly
> person, I hate putting toxins in the air, but I'm a student right now, and
> buying a new car is probably going to be at least a year off for me.
> Hopefully someone out there will have some helpful information to shed
> light on my problems. Unfortunately, I haven't come across any
> knowledgeable mechanics that have been able to fix the problems thus far,
> and I've been to quite a few.[/color]

An external leak could be getting on the exhaust pipe, which would account
for the smell. Without actualliy smelling the car, it is difficult to
diagnose.[color=blue]
>[/color]

--

Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)

Jack muses:

California Girl, I have a 1993 Corolla LE with 217,000 kilometers (about
135,000 miles) on it.

Characteristically this car starts instantly, however two years ago it began
to have episodes of difficult starting. One morning, it seemed totally dead
and I had to boost it for the first time ever.

I bought two copper contacts for the starter solenoid. It was very easy to
remove the starter (first disconnecting the battery negative cable ftom the
battery). I took the starter assembly in the house and had a cup of tea
while disassembling the solenoid cap and putting on the two new copper
contacts. Of course, I was very careful when tightening the copper nuts and
bolts because they are so soft. Since then it has started right away
whenever the key is turned.

You did not say what mileage is on your engine, however if it is very old or
has not been well cared for, the valve stems can eventually widen the valve
guides (the guide looks a bit like a miniature torpedo with a hole bored
through it lengthwise). These guides are basically replaceable slugs with
holes that the valve stems stick through into the cylinder. When worn
loose, oil can then get sucked through these passages (alongside the valve
stem) by the force of the vacuum as the piston pulls down ('intake stroke').
Of course the oil then gets burned as the gasoline mixture explodes. In the
process the oil probably tends to fould the spark plugs and hamper explosion
of the fuel mixture. I think oil induction shows more when idling (blue
smoke) and tends to lessen when powering, but others will know more on this.

I have never replaced a guide on a Toyota, however if they were like other
cars, there are little neoprene seals on the outside end of the valve guides
(about the size of a toothpaste tube cap). However replacing only the
'valve guide oil seal' is not a reliable cure since the valve stem can
'play' (laterally) in the loose guide, quickly wearing out the new seal.

Replacing the guide is a job suitable for an automotive machine shop
because: - the cylinder head is heated (as in a hot kitchen oven) so all
'meltable' parts must be removed first; - the new guide is frozen (as in the
'fridge's freezers); - then (the hard part) while everything is still hot or
frozen, a squirt of very light oil is shot into the cylinder head, and using
a special drift (rod inside the valve stem bore) the new guide is driven in
place with a single blow of a hammer (or maybe two just to be sure). They
are 'friction fit' and it is easy bo break the little lip (where the oil
seal goes) if you don't have the right drift. Been there, broke one.... Oh,
and in our home it's hard to find a suitable place to put a 400F-degree
chunk of metal so that you can really whack it. That is, without setting
the table on fire.

Thicker oil (e.g. SAE 50, or SAE 10w50) will resist the slide down the valve
guide tube a bit better that 10w30. In winter it will resemble margarine,
however.

The Corolla is has been a great car to me, and I wish you luck with yours.

- Jack

ALL outstanding advice from this responder. I've just purchased my first
Toyota, so I have a lot to learn about the systems, but the first thing I
noticed was the incredible reliance on vacuum, so I'd be on the lookout for
a wise Toyota tuner who knows why and how the various vacuum references are
used (as opposed to electronic or electric inputs only). The age of your
"Toy' " would indicate that (unless you've had a very special mechanic) the
vacuum lines are just SOME of the bits and pieces of your Corolla that need
attention.

Over time, sensitive electrical and electronic connections degrade and
corrode. If you're a Cali girl and live very close to the coast, the same
salt that flavors the water is carried in the air. That can accellerate
corrosion and play a role in sketchy performance.

Again, I agree that if you're adding no more than 2 quarts of oil between
changes to a motor that's 13 years old, you're still doing well. Mileage
does play a role, but idling and stop-and-go driving are more likely to bake
those all-important valve seals. I, personally, would not spend the money to
ask more from a 4 cylinder power plant that has served a long and
illustrious life.

Good luck. You can probably massage another couple of years out of your car
if you find a trustworthy tuner and keep your expectations realistic.

BTW - I'm interested too.....what IS the mileage??

On Fri, 19 May 2006 01:18:59 GMT, "RACEGUY"
<xspamxraceguy@nbnet.nb.ca> wrote:
[color=blue]
>Good luck. You can probably massage another couple of years out of your car
>if you find a trustworthy tuner and keep your expectations realistic.[/color]

A couple of more years?

ROFL

I'm expecting at least 10 more out of my '92 Corolla Wagon....

--

Scott in Florida

You can get an 'Antique' car plate in 2007 ;)

mike hunt


"Scott in Florida" <MoveOn@outa.here> wrote in message
news:1dar621p3e1a40m4uhn8ldk5u74im8i6cd@4ax.com...[color=blue]
> On Fri, 19 May 2006 01:18:59 GMT, "RACEGUY"
> <xspamxraceguy@nbnet.nb.ca> wrote:
>[color=green]
>>Good luck. You can probably massage another couple of years out of your
>>car
>>if you find a trustworthy tuner and keep your expectations realistic.[/color]
>
> A couple of more years?
>
> ROFL
>
> I'm expecting at least 10 more out of my '92 Corolla Wagon....
>
> --
>
> Scott in Florida[/color]

"Mike Hunter" <mikehunt2@mailcity.com> wrote in message
news:_dOdnTUpf4vYbfDZUSdV9g@ptd.net...[color=blue]
> You can get an 'Antique' car plate in 2007 ;)
>
> mike hunt
>[/color]

In Illinois, antique plates cost less money but there is a limit to how many
miles the vehicle can be driven in a year so if you put a lot of miles on
the vehicle, it may be something to consider.
--

Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)


[color=blue]
> "Scott in Florida" <MoveOn@outa.here> wrote in message
> news:1dar621p3e1a40m4uhn8ldk5u74im8i6cd@4ax.com...[color=green]
>> On Fri, 19 May 2006 01:18:59 GMT, "RACEGUY"
>> <xspamxraceguy@nbnet.nb.ca> wrote:
>>[color=darkred]
>>>Good luck. You can probably massage another couple of years out of your
>>>car
>>>if you find a trustworthy tuner and keep your expectations realistic.[/color]
>>
>> A couple of more years?
>>
>> ROFL
>>
>> I'm expecting at least 10 more out of my '92 Corolla Wagon....
>>
>> --
>>
>> Scott in Florida[/color]
>
>[/color]