VSV or EGR problems, Please help

I am getting the usual EGR flow is low. If I put a vacumm on the egr
the engine almost stalls out. With the engine cold I am getting 14
volts to the VSV at all times. Once the engine is warm it still shows
14 volts. The only way I get it to drop is when I rev the engine real
quick, the voltage drops and goes back up again. I had a vacumm gauge
on the line that comes from the VSV to the EGR and when the engine is
warm it shows no vacumm. When I rev the engine the vacumm jumps for a
split second and then goes back to 0.
I put a jumper on the E1 and TE1 on the data link, the engine would rev
for a second then almost die out. I was going to take the VSV off to
test it with a meter but, I can't get the dang thing off. I was going
to just buy a new one and zip tie it to the firewall, but I can't
afford to just buy parts since my 2002 ford explorer is going to need a
new transmission.
Right now I am bypassing the VSV by running a vacumm hose from the
regulator right to the egr vavle. Will this work for emission testing
as long as the engine is warm ?
Sorry for the mixed up post, bottom line my questions are:
Is the VSV normally open or closed. Should it have 14 volts to it when
the engine is cold ?
Can I just bypass the VSV and pass emissions ?
Could it be the Map sensor ? or something else.

Thanks again,

"BigB" <bnovinger@adelphia.net> wrote in message
news:1156300889.637897.58160@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com...[color=blue]
>I am getting the usual EGR flow is low.[/color]

EGR flow should be low at idle.

BTW, what model, year, engine, are you talking about?

If I put a vacumm on the egr[color=blue]
> the engine almost stalls out.[/color]

If you apply vacuum to the EGR valve when the engine is idling, it should
almost stall out so your EGR is operating properly.

With the engine cold I am getting 14[color=blue]
> volts to the VSV at all times. Once the engine is warm it still shows
> 14 volts. The only way I get it to drop is when I rev the engine real
> quick, the voltage drops and goes back up again. I had a vacumm gauge
> on the line that comes from the VSV to the EGR and when the engine is
> warm it shows no vacumm. When I rev the engine the vacumm jumps for a
> split second and then goes back to 0.[/color]

This is not the correct test procedure. Disconnect the VSV for the EGR and
measure continuity between the 2 terminals. You should have between 27 and
33 ohms and when you blow in port E, air should come out of port G. Then
apply 12 volts to the 2 terminals and when you blow in port E, air should
come out of port F.
[color=blue]
> I put a jumper on the E1 and TE1 on the data link, the engine would rev
> for a second then almost die out. I was going to take the VSV off to
> test it with a meter but, I can't get the dang thing off. I was going
> to just buy a new one and zip tie it to the firewall, but I can't
> afford to just buy parts since my 2002 ford explorer is going to need a
> new transmission.[/color]
[color=blue]
> Right now I am bypassing the VSV by running a vacumm hose from the
> regulator right to the egr vavle. Will this work for emission testing
> as long as the engine is warm ?[/color]

No. Applying vacuum to the EGR all the time should cause a rough idle.
[color=blue]
> Sorry for the mixed up post, bottom line my questions are:
> Is the VSV normally open or closed. Should it have 14 volts to it when
> the engine is cold ?[/color]

See above.
[color=blue]
> Can I just bypass the VSV and pass emissions ?[/color]

NO!
[color=blue]
> Could it be the Map sensor ? or something else.
>
> Thanks again,
>[/color]

You never described the symptoms you are trying to cure. What is going on
and under what conditions?
--

Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)

Ray O wrote:[color=blue]
> "BigB" <bnovinger@adelphia.net> wrote in message
> news:1156300889.637897.58160@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com...[color=green]
> >I am getting the usual EGR flow is low.[/color]
>
> EGR flow should be low at idle.
>
> BTW, what model, year, engine, are you talking about?[/color]
96 Camry 5S-FE, EGR flow is low. It can go from a day to 3 weeks before
the check engine light comes on.[color=blue]
>
> If I put a vacumm on the egr[color=green]
> > the engine almost stalls out.[/color]
>
> If you apply vacuum to the EGR valve when the engine is idling, it should
> almost stall out so your EGR is operating properly.
>
> With the engine cold I am getting 14[color=green]
> > volts to the VSV at all times. Once the engine is warm it still shows
> > 14 volts. The only way I get it to drop is when I rev the engine real
> > quick, the voltage drops and goes back up again. I had a vacumm gauge
> > on the line that comes from the VSV to the EGR and when the engine is
> > warm it shows no vacumm. When I rev the engine the vacumm jumps for a
> > split second and then goes back to 0.[/color]
>
> This is not the correct test procedure. Disconnect the VSV for the EGR and
> measure continuity between the 2 terminals. You should have between 27 and
> 33 ohms and when you blow in port E, air should come out of port G. Then
> apply 12 volts to the 2 terminals and when you blow in port E, air should
> come out of port F.
>[color=green]
> > I put a jumper on the E1 and TE1 on the data link, the engine would rev
> > for a second then almost die out. I was going to take the VSV off to
> > test it with a meter but, I can't get the dang thing off. I was going
> > to just buy a new one and zip tie it to the firewall, but I can't
> > afford to just buy parts since my 2002 ford explorer is going to need a
> > new transmission.[/color]
>[color=green]
> > Right now I am bypassing the VSV by running a vacumm hose from the
> > regulator right to the egr vavle. Will this work for emission testing
> > as long as the engine is warm ?[/color]
>
> No. Applying vacuum to the EGR all the time should cause a rough idle.
>[color=green]
> > Sorry for the mixed up post, bottom line my questions are:
> > Is the VSV normally open or closed. Should it have 14 volts to it when
> > the engine is cold ?[/color]
>
> See above.
>[color=green]
> > Can I just bypass the VSV and pass emissions ?[/color]
>
> NO!
>[color=green]
> > Could it be the Map sensor ? or something else.
> >
> > Thanks again,
> >[/color]
>
> You never described the symptoms you are trying to cure. What is going on
> and under what conditions?[/color]
I just get a check engine light, other then that the engine runs fine.
I know that it holds a vacuum from the modulator to the VSV. I can blow
air from the EGR to the VSV, but I have to try it with voltage and see
where the air comes from. Should there be 14 volts at the VSV all the
time even when cold ?[color=blue]
> --
>
> Ray O
> (correct punctuation to reply)[/color]

BigB wrote:[color=blue]
> Ray O wrote:[color=green]
> > "BigB" <bnovinger@adelphia.net> wrote in message
> > news:1156300889.637897.58160@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com...[color=darkred]
> > >I am getting the usual EGR flow is low.[/color]
> >
> > EGR flow should be low at idle.
> >
> > BTW, what model, year, engine, are you talking about?[/color]
> 96 Camry 5S-FE, EGR flow is low. It can go from a day to 3 weeks before
> the check engine light comes on.[color=green]
> >
> > If I put a vacumm on the egr[color=darkred]
> > > the engine almost stalls out.[/color]
> >
> > If you apply vacuum to the EGR valve when the engine is idling, it should
> > almost stall out so your EGR is operating properly.
> >
> > With the engine cold I am getting 14[color=darkred]
> > > volts to the VSV at all times. Once the engine is warm it still shows
> > > 14 volts. The only way I get it to drop is when I rev the engine real
> > > quick, the voltage drops and goes back up again. I had a vacumm gauge
> > > on the line that comes from the VSV to the EGR and when the engine is
> > > warm it shows no vacumm. When I rev the engine the vacumm jumps for a
> > > split second and then goes back to 0.[/color]
> >
> > This is not the correct test procedure. Disconnect the VSV for the EGR and
> > measure continuity between the 2 terminals. You should have between 27 and
> > 33 ohms and when you blow in port E, air should come out of port G. Then
> > apply 12 volts to the 2 terminals and when you blow in port E, air should
> > come out of port F.
> >[color=darkred]
> > > I put a jumper on the E1 and TE1 on the data link, the engine would rev
> > > for a second then almost die out. I was going to take the VSV off to
> > > test it with a meter but, I can't get the dang thing off. I was going
> > > to just buy a new one and zip tie it to the firewall, but I can't
> > > afford to just buy parts since my 2002 ford explorer is going to need a
> > > new transmission.[/color]
> >[color=darkred]
> > > Right now I am bypassing the VSV by running a vacumm hose from the
> > > regulator right to the egr vavle. Will this work for emission testing
> > > as long as the engine is warm ?[/color]
> >
> > No. Applying vacuum to the EGR all the time should cause a rough idle.
> >[color=darkred]
> > > Sorry for the mixed up post, bottom line my questions are:
> > > Is the VSV normally open or closed. Should it have 14 volts to it when
> > > the engine is cold ?[/color]
> >
> > See above.
> >[color=darkred]
> > > Can I just bypass the VSV and pass emissions ?[/color]
> >
> > NO!
> >[color=darkred]
> > > Could it be the Map sensor ? or something else.
> > >
> > > Thanks again,
> > >[/color]
> >
> > You never described the symptoms you are trying to cure. What is going on
> > and under what conditions?[/color]
> I just get a check engine light, other then that the engine runs fine.
> I know that it holds a vacuum from the modulator to the VSV. I can blow
> air from the EGR to the VSV, but I have to try it with voltage and see
> where the air comes from. Should there be 14 volts at the VSV all the
> time even when cold ?[color=green]
> > --
> >
> > Ray O
> > (correct punctuation to reply)[/color][/color]

I managed to get my meter on the VSV without taking it off and here is
what I found with the engine cold.
I showed 35.8 ohms between the two terminals on the VSV.
I have continuity between the two terminals on the VSV.
I did not have any continuity between either terminal and the body of
the VSV.
When I apply 12 volts I hear a click at the VSV.
With the engine cold and the ignition off, I can blow from the EGR
valve down to the VSV and hear the air come out of the filter. When I
turn the key to the ignition (not running though and still cold) and
blow air from the EGR to the VSV, the air comes out the hose that goes
from the VSV to the modulator.
With the flow going through the VSV and completing the loop to the EGR
when the engine is cold seems wrong to me. What could cause this ? I
can go anywhere from 1 day to 3 weeks before the check engine light
comes on.

"BigB" <bnovinger@adelphia.net> wrote in message
news:1156342695.667344.109370@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com...[color=blue]
>
> BigB wrote:[color=green]
>> Ray O wrote:[color=darkred]
>> > "BigB" <bnovinger@adelphia.net> wrote in message
>> > news:1156300889.637897.58160@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com...
>> > >I am getting the usual EGR flow is low.
>> >
>> > EGR flow should be low at idle.
>> >
>> > BTW, what model, year, engine, are you talking about?[/color]
>> 96 Camry 5S-FE, EGR flow is low. It can go from a day to 3 weeks before
>> the check engine light comes on.[color=darkred]
>> >
>> > If I put a vacumm on the egr
>> > > the engine almost stalls out.
>> >
>> > If you apply vacuum to the EGR valve when the engine is idling, it
>> > should
>> > almost stall out so your EGR is operating properly.
>> >
>> > With the engine cold I am getting 14
>> > > volts to the VSV at all times. Once the engine is warm it still shows
>> > > 14 volts. The only way I get it to drop is when I rev the engine real
>> > > quick, the voltage drops and goes back up again. I had a vacumm gauge
>> > > on the line that comes from the VSV to the EGR and when the engine is
>> > > warm it shows no vacumm. When I rev the engine the vacumm jumps for a
>> > > split second and then goes back to 0.
>> >
>> > This is not the correct test procedure. Disconnect the VSV for the EGR
>> > and
>> > measure continuity between the 2 terminals. You should have between 27
>> > and
>> > 33 ohms and when you blow in port E, air should come out of port G.
>> > Then
>> > apply 12 volts to the 2 terminals and when you blow in port E, air
>> > should
>> > come out of port F.
>> >
>> > > I put a jumper on the E1 and TE1 on the data link, the engine would
>> > > rev
>> > > for a second then almost die out. I was going to take the VSV off to
>> > > test it with a meter but, I can't get the dang thing off. I was going
>> > > to just buy a new one and zip tie it to the firewall, but I can't
>> > > afford to just buy parts since my 2002 ford explorer is going to need
>> > > a
>> > > new transmission.
>> >
>> > > Right now I am bypassing the VSV by running a vacumm hose from the
>> > > regulator right to the egr vavle. Will this work for emission testing
>> > > as long as the engine is warm ?
>> >
>> > No. Applying vacuum to the EGR all the time should cause a rough idle.
>> >
>> > > Sorry for the mixed up post, bottom line my questions are:
>> > > Is the VSV normally open or closed. Should it have 14 volts to it
>> > > when
>> > > the engine is cold ?
>> >
>> > See above.
>> >
>> > > Can I just bypass the VSV and pass emissions ?
>> >
>> > NO!
>> >
>> > > Could it be the Map sensor ? or something else.
>> > >
>> > > Thanks again,
>> > >
>> >
>> > You never described the symptoms you are trying to cure. What is going
>> > on
>> > and under what conditions?[/color]
>> I just get a check engine light, other then that the engine runs fine.
>> I know that it holds a vacuum from the modulator to the VSV. I can blow
>> air from the EGR to the VSV, but I have to try it with voltage and see
>> where the air comes from. Should there be 14 volts at the VSV all the
>> time even when cold ?[color=darkred]
>> > --
>> >
>> > Ray O
>> > (correct punctuation to reply)[/color][/color]
>
> I managed to get my meter on the VSV without taking it off and here is
> what I found with the engine cold.
> I showed 35.8 ohms between the two terminals on the VSV.
> I have continuity between the two terminals on the VSV.
> I did not have any continuity between either terminal and the body of
> the VSV.
> When I apply 12 volts I hear a click at the VSV.
> With the engine cold and the ignition off, I can blow from the EGR
> valve down to the VSV and hear the air come out of the filter. When I
> turn the key to the ignition (not running though and still cold) and
> blow air from the EGR to the VSV, the air comes out the hose that goes
> from the VSV to the modulator.
> With the flow going through the VSV and completing the loop to the EGR
> when the engine is cold seems wrong to me. What could cause this ? I
> can go anywhere from 1 day to 3 weeks before the check engine light
> comes on.
>[/color]

From what you are describing about the checks on the VSV, it seems like it
is operating properly.

If you got a OBD II trouble code P0401, check out this site:
[url]http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/generic/p0401-insufficient-exhaust-gas-recirculation-flow-egr.php[/url]
for hints.

You may want to check the operation of the EGR position sensor - it may
sense that the EGR is not opening enough when it is.

You can go to techinfo.toyota.com and for $10/day, you an get online access
to factory repair manuals.

The reason that the check engine light seems to come on randomly is that
trouble code has a 2-trip detection logic and needs to sense the problem on
2 consecutive trips.
--

Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)

Where is the ERG position sensor on a 96 Camry?. I can't find any
electrical connections on the EGR vavle. Any way to test it ?

Thanks for all your help.
Ray O wrote:[color=blue]
> "BigB" <bnovinger@adelphia.net> wrote in message
> news:1156342695.667344.109370@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com...[color=green]
> >
> > BigB wrote:[color=darkred]
> >> Ray O wrote:
> >> > "BigB" <bnovinger@adelphia.net> wrote in message
> >> > news:1156300889.637897.58160@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com...
> >> > >I am getting the usual EGR flow is low.
> >> >
> >> > EGR flow should be low at idle.
> >> >
> >> > BTW, what model, year, engine, are you talking about?
> >> 96 Camry 5S-FE, EGR flow is low. It can go from a day to 3 weeks before
> >> the check engine light comes on.
> >> >
> >> > If I put a vacumm on the egr
> >> > > the engine almost stalls out.
> >> >
> >> > If you apply vacuum to the EGR valve when the engine is idling, it
> >> > should
> >> > almost stall out so your EGR is operating properly.
> >> >
> >> > With the engine cold I am getting 14
> >> > > volts to the VSV at all times. Once the engine is warm it still shows
> >> > > 14 volts. The only way I get it to drop is when I rev the engine real
> >> > > quick, the voltage drops and goes back up again. I had a vacumm gauge
> >> > > on the line that comes from the VSV to the EGR and when the engine is
> >> > > warm it shows no vacumm. When I rev the engine the vacumm jumps for a
> >> > > split second and then goes back to 0.
> >> >
> >> > This is not the correct test procedure. Disconnect the VSV for the EGR
> >> > and
> >> > measure continuity between the 2 terminals. You should have between 27
> >> > and
> >> > 33 ohms and when you blow in port E, air should come out of port G.
> >> > Then
> >> > apply 12 volts to the 2 terminals and when you blow in port E, air
> >> > should
> >> > come out of port F.
> >> >
> >> > > I put a jumper on the E1 and TE1 on the data link, the engine would
> >> > > rev
> >> > > for a second then almost die out. I was going to take the VSV off to
> >> > > test it with a meter but, I can't get the dang thing off. I was going
> >> > > to just buy a new one and zip tie it to the firewall, but I can't
> >> > > afford to just buy parts since my 2002 ford explorer is going to need
> >> > > a
> >> > > new transmission.
> >> >
> >> > > Right now I am bypassing the VSV by running a vacumm hose from the
> >> > > regulator right to the egr vavle. Will this work for emission testing
> >> > > as long as the engine is warm ?
> >> >
> >> > No. Applying vacuum to the EGR all the time should cause a rough idle.
> >> >
> >> > > Sorry for the mixed up post, bottom line my questions are:
> >> > > Is the VSV normally open or closed. Should it have 14 volts to it
> >> > > when
> >> > > the engine is cold ?
> >> >
> >> > See above.
> >> >
> >> > > Can I just bypass the VSV and pass emissions ?
> >> >
> >> > NO!
> >> >
> >> > > Could it be the Map sensor ? or something else.
> >> > >
> >> > > Thanks again,
> >> > >
> >> >
> >> > You never described the symptoms you are trying to cure. What is going
> >> > on
> >> > and under what conditions?
> >> I just get a check engine light, other then that the engine runs fine.
> >> I know that it holds a vacuum from the modulator to the VSV. I can blow
> >> air from the EGR to the VSV, but I have to try it with voltage and see
> >> where the air comes from. Should there be 14 volts at the VSV all the
> >> time even when cold ?
> >> > --
> >> >
> >> > Ray O
> >> > (correct punctuation to reply)[/color]
> >
> > I managed to get my meter on the VSV without taking it off and here is
> > what I found with the engine cold.
> > I showed 35.8 ohms between the two terminals on the VSV.
> > I have continuity between the two terminals on the VSV.
> > I did not have any continuity between either terminal and the body of
> > the VSV.
> > When I apply 12 volts I hear a click at the VSV.
> > With the engine cold and the ignition off, I can blow from the EGR
> > valve down to the VSV and hear the air come out of the filter. When I
> > turn the key to the ignition (not running though and still cold) and
> > blow air from the EGR to the VSV, the air comes out the hose that goes
> > from the VSV to the modulator.
> > With the flow going through the VSV and completing the loop to the EGR
> > when the engine is cold seems wrong to me. What could cause this ? I
> > can go anywhere from 1 day to 3 weeks before the check engine light
> > comes on.
> >[/color]
>
> From what you are describing about the checks on the VSV, it seems like it
> is operating properly.
>
> If you got a OBD II trouble code P0401, check out this site:
> [url]http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/generic/p0401-insufficient-exhaust-gas-recirculation-flow-egr.php[/url]
> for hints.
>
> You may want to check the operation of the EGR position sensor - it may
> sense that the EGR is not opening enough when it is.
>
> You can go to techinfo.toyota.com and for $10/day, you an get online access
> to factory repair manuals.
>
> The reason that the check engine light seems to come on randomly is that
> trouble code has a 2-trip detection logic and needs to sense the problem on
> 2 consecutive trips.
> --
>
> Ray O
> (correct punctuation to reply)[/color]

"BigB" <bnovinger@adelphia.net> wrote in message
news:1156351526.927941.293140@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...[color=blue]
> Where is the ERG position sensor on a 96 Camry?. I can't find any
> electrical connections on the EGR vavle. Any way to test it ?[/color]

The EGR position sensor will be on or near the EGR valve. I'll take a look
at a service manual tonight to see how to test it and to confirm its
location.

--

Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)
[color=blue]
>
> Thanks for all your help.
> Ray O wrote:[color=green]
>> "BigB" <bnovinger@adelphia.net> wrote in message
>> news:1156342695.667344.109370@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com...[color=darkred]
>> >
>> > BigB wrote:
>> >> Ray O wrote:
>> >> > "BigB" <bnovinger@adelphia.net> wrote in message
>> >> > news:1156300889.637897.58160@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com...
>> >> > >I am getting the usual EGR flow is low.
>> >> >
>> >> > EGR flow should be low at idle.
>> >> >
>> >> > BTW, what model, year, engine, are you talking about?
>> >> 96 Camry 5S-FE, EGR flow is low. It can go from a day to 3 weeks
>> >> before
>> >> the check engine light comes on.
>> >> >
>> >> > If I put a vacumm on the egr
>> >> > > the engine almost stalls out.
>> >> >
>> >> > If you apply vacuum to the EGR valve when the engine is idling, it
>> >> > should
>> >> > almost stall out so your EGR is operating properly.
>> >> >
>> >> > With the engine cold I am getting 14
>> >> > > volts to the VSV at all times. Once the engine is warm it still
>> >> > > shows
>> >> > > 14 volts. The only way I get it to drop is when I rev the engine
>> >> > > real
>> >> > > quick, the voltage drops and goes back up again. I had a vacumm
>> >> > > gauge
>> >> > > on the line that comes from the VSV to the EGR and when the engine
>> >> > > is
>> >> > > warm it shows no vacumm. When I rev the engine the vacumm jumps
>> >> > > for a
>> >> > > split second and then goes back to 0.
>> >> >
>> >> > This is not the correct test procedure. Disconnect the VSV for the
>> >> > EGR
>> >> > and
>> >> > measure continuity between the 2 terminals. You should have between
>> >> > 27
>> >> > and
>> >> > 33 ohms and when you blow in port E, air should come out of port G.
>> >> > Then
>> >> > apply 12 volts to the 2 terminals and when you blow in port E, air
>> >> > should
>> >> > come out of port F.
>> >> >
>> >> > > I put a jumper on the E1 and TE1 on the data link, the engine
>> >> > > would
>> >> > > rev
>> >> > > for a second then almost die out. I was going to take the VSV off
>> >> > > to
>> >> > > test it with a meter but, I can't get the dang thing off. I was
>> >> > > going
>> >> > > to just buy a new one and zip tie it to the firewall, but I can't
>> >> > > afford to just buy parts since my 2002 ford explorer is going to
>> >> > > need
>> >> > > a
>> >> > > new transmission.
>> >> >
>> >> > > Right now I am bypassing the VSV by running a vacumm hose from the
>> >> > > regulator right to the egr vavle. Will this work for emission
>> >> > > testing
>> >> > > as long as the engine is warm ?
>> >> >
>> >> > No. Applying vacuum to the EGR all the time should cause a rough
>> >> > idle.
>> >> >
>> >> > > Sorry for the mixed up post, bottom line my questions are:
>> >> > > Is the VSV normally open or closed. Should it have 14 volts to it
>> >> > > when
>> >> > > the engine is cold ?
>> >> >
>> >> > See above.
>> >> >
>> >> > > Can I just bypass the VSV and pass emissions ?
>> >> >
>> >> > NO!
>> >> >
>> >> > > Could it be the Map sensor ? or something else.
>> >> > >
>> >> > > Thanks again,
>> >> > >
>> >> >
>> >> > You never described the symptoms you are trying to cure. What is
>> >> > going
>> >> > on
>> >> > and under what conditions?
>> >> I just get a check engine light, other then that the engine runs fine.
>> >> I know that it holds a vacuum from the modulator to the VSV. I can
>> >> blow
>> >> air from the EGR to the VSV, but I have to try it with voltage and see
>> >> where the air comes from. Should there be 14 volts at the VSV all the
>> >> time even when cold ?
>> >> > --
>> >> >
>> >> > Ray O
>> >> > (correct punctuation to reply)
>> >
>> > I managed to get my meter on the VSV without taking it off and here is
>> > what I found with the engine cold.
>> > I showed 35.8 ohms between the two terminals on the VSV.
>> > I have continuity between the two terminals on the VSV.
>> > I did not have any continuity between either terminal and the body of
>> > the VSV.
>> > When I apply 12 volts I hear a click at the VSV.
>> > With the engine cold and the ignition off, I can blow from the EGR
>> > valve down to the VSV and hear the air come out of the filter. When I
>> > turn the key to the ignition (not running though and still cold) and
>> > blow air from the EGR to the VSV, the air comes out the hose that goes
>> > from the VSV to the modulator.
>> > With the flow going through the VSV and completing the loop to the EGR
>> > when the engine is cold seems wrong to me. What could cause this ? I
>> > can go anywhere from 1 day to 3 weeks before the check engine light
>> > comes on.
>> >[/color]
>>
>> From what you are describing about the checks on the VSV, it seems like
>> it
>> is operating properly.
>>
>> If you got a OBD II trouble code P0401, check out this site:
>> [url]http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/generic/p0401-insufficient-exhaust-gas-recirculation-flow-egr.php[/url]
>> for hints.
>>
>> You may want to check the operation of the EGR position sensor - it may
>> sense that the EGR is not opening enough when it is.
>>
>> You can go to techinfo.toyota.com and for $10/day, you an get online
>> access
>> to factory repair manuals.
>>
>> The reason that the check engine light seems to come on randomly is that
>> trouble code has a 2-trip detection logic and needs to sense the problem
>> on
>> 2 consecutive trips.
>> --
>>
>> Ray O
>> (correct punctuation to reply)[/color]
>[/color]