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Re: Overdid it today!
"Hachiroku" <Trueno@ae86.gts> wrote in message
news:wokQg.5939$_k1.677@trndny01...[color=blue]
> On Wed, 20 Sep 2006 02:38:49 +0000, Bruce L. Bergman wrote:
>[color=green]
>> On Tue, 19 Sep 2006 11:17:21 -0500, "Ray O"
>> <rokigawaATtristarassociatesDOTcom> wrote:[color=darkred]
>>>"Bruce L. Bergman" <blPYTHONbergman@earthlink.invalid> wrote in message
>>>news:3ltug214940q3tru6d9umh7rat3k2de2b9@4ax.com...
>>>> On Mon, 18 Sep 2006 15:19:15 -0500, "Ray O"
>>>> <rokigawaATtristarassociatesDOTcom> wrote:[/color]
>>[color=darkred]
>>>The oil-less compressors were just coming out when I got my compressor
>>>around 20 years ago, and since they were so new, I stuck to conventional
>>>(at
>>>that time) oil-lube compressor. I use my compressor quite a bit for
>>>everything from blowing off the lawnmower to filling tires to air tools.
>>>
>>>The only thing I don't like about the compressor is the oily mess when I
>>>drain the tank.[/color]
>>
>> So put a hose on the tank drain and aim it into a bucket of kitty
>> litter. The water evaporates and the clay absorbs the oil nicely for
>> easy disposal.
>>[color=darkred]
>>>> If you have the room, get a belt-drive "old-style" unit with the
>>>> horizontal tank, the slower compressor RPM adds to the longevity. The
>>>> direct drive 1725 RPM units are a lot noisier, too.
>>>
>>>Does the horizontal tank have an advantage over a vertical one or are you
>>>talking just about the belt drive configuration? BTW, how long do those
>>>belts last? I've never done any maintenance or repairs to the compressor
>>>other than draining the tank and refilling the oil.[/color]
>>
>> I was talking about the belt between motor and pump. For small
>> units with the 14 to 20-gallon tanks, they're usually horizontal.
>>
>> Belt drive lets them use a more efficient 3600 RPM motor and gear it
>> down with the pulleys for a compressor head that would rather see 600
>> - 900 RPM for long life and better volumetric efficiency.
>>
>> Direct drives have to run the compressor head at either 1800 or 3600
>> RPM in lock-step with the motor, which is not the preferred way to go.
>> You have to go with smaller pistons and/or shorter crank throws, and
>> it's harder to dissipate heat.
>>[color=darkred]
>>>>>The plastic cover on the trigger for my impact gun broke off so it kind
>>>>>of
>>>>>hurts to use my impact gun. It was a free sample and still works, but
>>>>>now
>>>>>I have an excuse for a new one!
>>>>
>>>> Depending on who made it, those molded rubber grip sections are
>>>> available as replacement parts. Or go get a set of the special
>>>> "anti-vibration" gloves with the gel pads in the palms and
>>>> second-knuckle areas of the fingers.
>>>
>>>The brand name on the gun is Fuji, which I've never heard of here in the
>>>U.S. I got it from my dad, who says that company supplies them to
>>>factories. The guns supposedly can be calibrated to apply accurate
>>>torque
>>>over many uses. The instructions were in Japanese and I never bothered
>>>to
>>>ask someone to translate for me. I like the gun because it is
>>>relatively
>>>light and it doesn't over-torque alloy wheels. I don't like the gun
>>>because
>>>it is relatively gutless at removing stubborn bolts that someone with one
>>>of
>>>those monster impact guns torqued.[/color]
>>
>> Time to do a web search for Fuji, finds a parts list, and order one.
>> You can get a new monster gun for doing lug nuts and crank pulleys if
>> you want, but there are times when finesse beats brute strength.
>>
>> Plus, Murphy's Law says the tool breaks 5 minutes after you could
>> possibly get to the last store in the area that sells them before they
>> close - and the car HAS to be on the road tomorrow morning...
>>[color=darkred]
>>>> 90 CFM? Refer to that Body Shop above, with the twin 15 HP units....
>>>
>>>Oops! typo! I meant 9 CFM.[/color]
>>
>> Yeah, Right, Suuuuuuuure ya did... ;-P
>>[color=darkred]
>>>My compressor is Craftsman brand, listed as 220V, 5 HP 30 gallon single
>>>stage. I don't know who made it. It is fine for air ratchets and impact
>>>guns but it runs quite a bit when I use a cutoff tool or die grinder.[/color]
>>
>> If you have a "5 Sears Horsepower" unit, it is probably a 2-HP or
>> possibly a 3-HP unit - check the nameplate for the running amps to
>> divine the true HP ratings. Sears has had to correct their
>> literature, electric motors are supposed to be rated at Full Load
>> Current, not the bigger and more impressive sounding Stall Current
>> rating Sears wanted to use...
>>
>> According to the NEC, 2-HP is 12A at 230V. 3-HP is 17A at 230V,
>> 5-HP is 28A at 230V for a single-phase motor. Real 5-Horse units need
>> a magnetic motor starter, the pressure switch contacts can't switch
>> that much juice reliably.
>>
>> Look at the motor nameplate and Century Electric Motors refuses to
>> lie about it, they just mark the HP Rating box as "Special" - any HP
>> claims made are not theirs.
>>
>> --<< Bruce >>--[/color]
>
>
> Man, I'll be DIPPED!
>
> Sears has a compressor on sale for $279, all the pressure I would need
> (6SCFM@40PSI, 4SCFM@90PSI) WITH a 24 piece tool kit, including an Impact
> wrench and a socket wrench!
>
> DAMN!
>[/color]
Sounds like a pretty good deal!
--
Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)
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