The tire place where I bought tires months ago cross threaded one of the
studs on the right rear wheel on my 90 Camry. The wheel nut was not
tightened all the way in. It has been like this for nearly a year till today
I found it out when rotating tires. I broke the stud when trying to loose
the nut. The wheel hub/bearing assembly looks very expensive to replace for
this car.
So the question is it enough to just have 4 studs?
ZR wrote:[color=blue]
> The tire place where I bought tires months ago cross threaded one of the
> studs on the right rear wheel on my 90 Camry. The wheel nut was not
> tightened all the way in. It has been like this for nearly a year till today
> I found it out when rotating tires. I broke the stud when trying to loose
> the nut. The wheel hub/bearing assembly looks very expensive to replace for
> this car.
>
> So the question is it enough to just have 4 studs?
>
> Thanks for your help!
>
>[/color]
[color=blue][color=green]
>>is it enough to just have 4 studs?<<[/color][/color]
Yes, but it won't pass a safety inspection...
I'd go back to the Tire place and put it in their face. They'll
probably tell you to take a hike, but it's worth the try..
The lugs are able to be pressed out of the rotor/drum and replaced.
If you're a bit mechanically inclined, not a big job to remove either,
then take it to a service station. To have them could do the whole
thing would be at around $50.00 an hour.
"ZR" <ZR@ABC.com> wrote in message
news:7hgRg.215$Y24.26@newsread4.news.pas.earthlink.net...[color=blue]
> The tire place where I bought tires months ago cross threaded one of the
> studs on the right rear wheel on my 90 Camry. The wheel nut was not
> tightened all the way in. It has been like this for nearly a year till
> today I found it out when rotating tires. I broke the stud when trying to
> loose the nut. The wheel hub/bearing assembly looks very expensive to
> replace for this car.
>
> So the question is it enough to just have 4 studs?
>
> Thanks for your help!
>
>[/color]
"ZR" <ZR@ABC.com> wrote in message
news:7hgRg.215$Y24.26@newsread4.news.pas.earthlink.net...[color=blue]
> The tire place where I bought tires months ago cross threaded one of the
> studs on the right rear wheel on my 90 Camry. The wheel nut was not
> tightened all the way in. It has been like this for nearly a year till
> today I found it out when rotating tires. I broke the stud when trying to
> loose the nut. The wheel hub/bearing assembly looks very expensive to
> replace for this car.
>
> So the question is it enough to just have 4 studs?
>
> Thanks for your help!
>[/color]
4 is enough for temporary use, but the problem with using 4 nuts on a
vehicle designed for 5 is that the wheel will be tightened unevenly,
contributing to rotor/drum warpage.
Individual studs can be replaced by pressing them out. If you are lucky, by
rotating the hub, you may be able to find a spot with enough clearance to
press the bad stud out without having to remove the hub.
--
"ZR" <ZR@ABC.com> wrote in message
news:7hgRg.215$Y24.26@newsread4.news.pas.earthlink.net...[color=blue]
> ... I broke the stud when trying to loosen the nut.[/color]
Just have your garage replace the stud. Should take at most 30 minutes. In
theory they are pressed in, but in practice all you do is bop the old one
out, put the new one in the hole from the back, stick a socket over the stud
and screw a wheel nut on to pull the stud into the hole. Then put the wheel
back on.
New stud about $3 - wack out with a hammer and pull new one in with the
wheel bolt.
"ZR" <ZR@ABC.com> wrote in message
news:7hgRg.215$Y24.26@newsread4.news.pas.earthlink.net...[color=blue]
> The tire place where I bought tires months ago cross threaded one of the
> studs on the right rear wheel on my 90 Camry. The wheel nut was not
> tightened all the way in. It has been like this for nearly a year till
> today I found it out when rotating tires. I broke the stud when trying to
> loose the nut. The wheel hub/bearing assembly looks very expensive to
> replace for this car.
>
> So the question is it enough to just have 4 studs?
>
> Thanks for your help!
>
>[/color]
>> The tire place where I bought tires months ago cross threaded one of the[color=blue][color=green]
>> studs on the right rear wheel on my 90 Camry. The wheel nut was not
>> tightened all the way in. It has been like this for nearly a year till
>> today I found it out when rotating tires. I broke the stud when trying to
>> loose the nut. The wheel hub/bearing assembly looks very expensive to
>> replace for this car.
>>
>> So the question is it enough to just have 4 studs?
>>
>> Thanks for your help!
>>[/color]
>
> 4 is enough for temporary use, but the problem with using 4 nuts on a
> vehicle designed for 5 is that the wheel will be tightened unevenly,
> contributing to rotor/drum warpage.
>
> Individual studs can be replaced by pressing them out. If you are lucky,
> by rotating the hub, you may be able to find a spot with enough clearance
> to press the bad stud out without having to remove the hub.[/color]
Cool! Thanks everyone. I didn't know the stud can be replaced and thought I
had to replace the whole assembly.
I'm assuming I need to push the bad stud in towards the car and pull the new
stud out away from the car from behind the hub. Does that sound right?
"ZR" <ZR@ABC.com> wrote in message
news:YqkRg.383$Y24.56@newsread4.news.pas.earthlink.net...[color=blue][color=green][color=darkred]
>>> The tire place where I bought tires months ago cross threaded one of the
>>> studs on the right rear wheel on my 90 Camry. The wheel nut was not
>>> tightened all the way in. It has been like this for nearly a year till
>>> today I found it out when rotating tires. I broke the stud when trying
>>> to loose the nut. The wheel hub/bearing assembly looks very expensive to
>>> replace for this car.
>>>
>>> So the question is it enough to just have 4 studs?
>>>
>>> Thanks for your help!
>>>[/color]
>>
>> 4 is enough for temporary use, but the problem with using 4 nuts on a
>> vehicle designed for 5 is that the wheel will be tightened unevenly,
>> contributing to rotor/drum warpage.
>>
>> Individual studs can be replaced by pressing them out. If you are lucky,
>> by rotating the hub, you may be able to find a spot with enough clearance
>> to press the bad stud out without having to remove the hub.[/color]
>
> Cool! Thanks everyone. I didn't know the stud can be replaced and thought
> I had to replace the whole assembly.
>
> I'm assuming I need to push the bad stud in towards the car and pull the
> new stud out away from the car from behind the hub. Does that sound right?
>[/color]
Yes, non only does that sound right, it is right!
--
On Sat, 23 Sep 2006 18:03:11 -0400, "Stewart DIBBS" <sjd@pixcl.com>
wrote:[color=blue]
>"ZR" <ZR@ABC.com> wrote in message
>news:7hgRg.215$Y24.26@newsread4.news.pas.earthlink.net...[/color]
[color=blue][color=green]
>> ... I broke the stud when trying to loosen the nut.[/color]
>
>Just have your garage replace the stud. Should take at most 30 minutes. In
>theory they are pressed in, but in practice all you do is bop the old one
>out, put the new one in the hole from the back, stick a socket over the stud
>and screw a wheel nut on to pull the stud into the hole. Then put the wheel
>back on.[/color]
But be warned: If at all possible, you /really/ want to take the
extra effort to remove the hub from the car and remove the broken stud
on the workbench supported by blocks on each side of the hole, or in a
hydraulic press. You can suck the new stud into the hub hole with a
lugnut and a stack of washers if you can't press it in.
Pounding on the broken stud with a hammer to remove it with the hub
still mounted on the car is just asking for Brinnelling damage to the
wheel bearings - the hammering makes tiny dents in the races with the
bearing rollers, and before you know it the wheel bearing is making
those ominous rumbling noises...
>>> ... I broke the stud when trying to loosen the nut.[color=blue][color=green]
>>
>>Just have your garage replace the stud. Should take at most 30 minutes. In
>>theory they are pressed in, but in practice all you do is bop the old one
>>out, put the new one in the hole from the back, stick a socket over the
>>stud
>>and screw a wheel nut on to pull the stud into the hole. Then put the
>>wheel
>>back on.[/color]
>
> But be warned: If at all possible, you /really/ want to take the
> extra effort to remove the hub from the car and remove the broken stud
> on the workbench supported by blocks on each side of the hole, or in a
> hydraulic press. You can suck the new stud into the hub hole with a
> lugnut and a stack of washers if you can't press it in.
>
> Pounding on the broken stud with a hammer to remove it with the hub
> still mounted on the car is just asking for Brinnelling damage to the
> wheel bearings - the hammering makes tiny dents in the races with the
> bearing rollers, and before you know it the wheel bearing is making
> those ominous rumbling noises...
>[/color]
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