I was driving my vehicle earlier when I noticed that the car was acting
as if the gas pedal was stuck down. When the car was in neutral, the
engine would be revving at almost 2000 rpm. When I'd put the car in
drive, I would have to brake harder and when I released the brakes, the
car felt like it just wanted to start taking off. What's odd is that I
have just noticed this issue and can't exactly point a finger on what
it could be.
Earlier I installed some aftermarket speakers in the front, both of
which sit within the dash (one to the bottom right of the glovebox and
one to the bottom left of the steering wheel). Is it possible that I
may have pinched something when installing the speakers? Could it be a
result of the new oxygen sensor I installed? And if not, what else
could it be? The car hasn't really acted up like this in a while.
"J" <omnineko@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1162948157.936167.51080@m7g2000cwm.googlegroups.com...[color=blue]
>I was driving my vehicle earlier when I noticed that the car was acting
> as if the gas pedal was stuck down. When the car was in neutral, the
> engine would be revving at almost 2000 rpm. When I'd put the car in
> drive, I would have to brake harder and when I released the brakes, the
> car felt like it just wanted to start taking off. What's odd is that I
> have just noticed this issue and can't exactly point a finger on what
> it could be.
>
> Earlier I installed some aftermarket speakers in the front, both of
> which sit within the dash (one to the bottom right of the glovebox and
> one to the bottom left of the steering wheel). Is it possible that I
> may have pinched something when installing the speakers? Could it be a
> result of the new oxygen sensor I installed? And if not, what else
> could it be? The car hasn't really acted up like this in a while.
>
> Thanks, again!![/color]
I would definitely check the speaker installation to make sure that they are
not pushing on the throttle cable.
The oxygen sensor itself probably would not cause the high idle, but if the
wire for the sensor is tangled up in the throttle cable under the hood, then
the sensor wire could be the cause.
Look at the bell crank on the throttle body to make sure it closes
completely.
Check the idle air control valve to make sure it is not stuck in the wide
open position.
Check the coolant temp gauge to make sure it is working properly. If it
reads cold, that could cause a high idle.
--
OK, I checked everything. I moved the panel where the speakers were at
and tried and the car still ran high. Here is what I found:
There is a vacuum hose loose. I heard this sucking sound on the right
side of the engine bay (near the firewall). I found two hoses which
were tied together, one seems to be a vacuum hose and the other is not.
When I plugged the vacuum hose with my finger, the idle went back to
normal and everything seemed to be fine.
Where does this vacuum hose go? What should I do to have it repaired?
Any help would be great. Thanks!!
Ray O wrote:[color=blue]
> "J" <omnineko@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:1162948157.936167.51080@m7g2000cwm.googlegroups.com...[color=green]
> >I was driving my vehicle earlier when I noticed that the car was acting
> > as if the gas pedal was stuck down. When the car was in neutral, the
> > engine would be revving at almost 2000 rpm. When I'd put the car in
> > drive, I would have to brake harder and when I released the brakes, the
> > car felt like it just wanted to start taking off. What's odd is that I
> > have just noticed this issue and can't exactly point a finger on what
> > it could be.
> >
> > Earlier I installed some aftermarket speakers in the front, both of
> > which sit within the dash (one to the bottom right of the glovebox and
> > one to the bottom left of the steering wheel). Is it possible that I
> > may have pinched something when installing the speakers? Could it be a
> > result of the new oxygen sensor I installed? And if not, what else
> > could it be? The car hasn't really acted up like this in a while.
> >
> > Thanks, again!![/color]
>
> I would definitely check the speaker installation to make sure that they are
> not pushing on the throttle cable.
>
> The oxygen sensor itself probably would not cause the high idle, but if the
> wire for the sensor is tangled up in the throttle cable under the hood, then
> the sensor wire could be the cause.
>
> Look at the bell crank on the throttle body to make sure it closes
> completely.
>
> Check the idle air control valve to make sure it is not stuck in the wide
> open position.
>
> Check the coolant temp gauge to make sure it is working properly. If it
> reads cold, that could cause a high idle.
> --
>
> Ray O
> (correct punctuation to reply)[/color]
"J" <omnineko@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1163005362.084094.306940@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...[color=blue]
> OK, I checked everything. I moved the panel where the speakers were at
> and tried and the car still ran high. Here is what I found:
>
> There is a vacuum hose loose. I heard this sucking sound on the right
> side of the engine bay (near the firewall). I found two hoses which
> were tied together, one seems to be a vacuum hose and the other is not.
> When I plugged the vacuum hose with my finger, the idle went back to
> normal and everything seemed to be fine.
>
> Where does this vacuum hose go? What should I do to have it repaired?
> Any help would be great. Thanks!![/color]
If you have recently done any work under the hood, then look for a
disconnected vacuum line connection in the same vicinity. Even if you have
not recently done any work under the hood, look for disconnected vacum line
connections, especially on the throttle body.
--
Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)
[color=blue]
>
> Ray O wrote:[color=green]
>> "J" <omnineko@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>> news:1162948157.936167.51080@m7g2000cwm.googlegroups.com...[color=darkred]
>> >I was driving my vehicle earlier when I noticed that the car was acting
>> > as if the gas pedal was stuck down. When the car was in neutral, the
>> > engine would be revving at almost 2000 rpm. When I'd put the car in
>> > drive, I would have to brake harder and when I released the brakes, the
>> > car felt like it just wanted to start taking off. What's odd is that I
>> > have just noticed this issue and can't exactly point a finger on what
>> > it could be.
>> >
>> > Earlier I installed some aftermarket speakers in the front, both of
>> > which sit within the dash (one to the bottom right of the glovebox and
>> > one to the bottom left of the steering wheel). Is it possible that I
>> > may have pinched something when installing the speakers? Could it be a
>> > result of the new oxygen sensor I installed? And if not, what else
>> > could it be? The car hasn't really acted up like this in a while.
>> >
>> > Thanks, again!![/color]
>>
>> I would definitely check the speaker installation to make sure that they
>> are
>> not pushing on the throttle cable.
>>
>> The oxygen sensor itself probably would not cause the high idle, but if
>> the
>> wire for the sensor is tangled up in the throttle cable under the hood,
>> then
>> the sensor wire could be the cause.
>>
>> Look at the bell crank on the throttle body to make sure it closes
>> completely.
>>
>> Check the idle air control valve to make sure it is not stuck in the wide
>> open position.
>>
>> Check the coolant temp gauge to make sure it is working properly. If it
>> reads cold, that could cause a high idle.
>> --
>>
>> Ray O
>> (correct punctuation to reply)[/color]
>[/color]
J wrote:[color=blue]
> OK, I checked everything. I moved the panel where the speakers were at
> and tried and the car still ran high. Here is what I found:
>
> There is a vacuum hose loose. I heard this sucking sound on the right
> side of the engine bay (near the firewall). I found two hoses which
> were tied together, one seems to be a vacuum hose and the other is not.
> When I plugged the vacuum hose with my finger, the idle went back to
> normal and everything seemed to be fine.
>
> Where does this vacuum hose go? What should I do to have it repaired?
> Any help would be great. Thanks!![/color]
Right of the engine bay from inside the car or standing at the bonnet?
And can you provide a photo?
Depending on the engine config i could probably tell you where theyre
meant to go if you give me some more details. Sounds like you may have
something like an air-con idle-up valve connection loose, but any vac
hose loose on this car will cause high idle.
OK, it's on the passenger side, near the firewall, within the engine
bay. I found three lines actually that were disconnected. One was a
larger hose which I cut (the end was split) and re-attached to its port
(both ends of the hose seemed to connect to the intake manifold).
The second hose (with the vacuum), I attached to a port in the rear of
the intake manifold (there also seemed to be some sort of sensor or
other electrical piece where this port was located) that seemed to be
exposed. When I attached the hose to this port, the idle went down.
However, the idle did not go down as much as it did when I simply
placed my thumb over the hole (when I placed my thumb over the hole,
the car would idle at about 800rpm, now it is idling at 1000 rpm).
ALSO, I can hear a high-pitched noise coming from where I attached the
hose (I'm guessing that it is not fully sealed and I was unable to find
a way to fully seal it).
There is a third hose (which is being held next to the second hose by
some sort of tie) which does nothing. I looked inside the hole at the
exposed end and noticed that there may be a piece of metal or something
blocking the hose. Right now it is simply hanging where I connected the
second hose.
I hope this isn't too confused. If necessary, I could take a few
pictures and try and get them posted.
Thanks for your help!!
Coyoteboy wrote:[color=blue]
> J wrote:[color=green]
> > OK, I checked everything. I moved the panel where the speakers were at
> > and tried and the car still ran high. Here is what I found:
> >
> > There is a vacuum hose loose. I heard this sucking sound on the right
> > side of the engine bay (near the firewall). I found two hoses which
> > were tied together, one seems to be a vacuum hose and the other is not.
> > When I plugged the vacuum hose with my finger, the idle went back to
> > normal and everything seemed to be fine.
> >
> > Where does this vacuum hose go? What should I do to have it repaired?
> > Any help would be great. Thanks!![/color]
>
> Right of the engine bay from inside the car or standing at the bonnet?
> And can you provide a photo?
> Depending on the engine config i could probably tell you where theyre
> meant to go if you give me some more details. Sounds like you may have
> something like an air-con idle-up valve connection loose, but any vac
> hose loose on this car will cause high idle.[/color]
J wrote:[color=blue]
> OK, it's on the passenger side, near the firewall, within the engine
> bay. I found three lines actually that were disconnected. One was a[/color]
Must admit im struggling to picture them in my head. Most vac hoses are
cut-to-length items so their attachment points will be very close. Also
if you look at a chiltons manual, or similar, you should have a vacuum
diagram in there which will help identify them. Drop me an email with a
couple of pics, via my website, [url]http://www.jbuckle.homeip.net/[/url] or post
them in my forum for me to browse.
I sent you a message via the contact form on your website. Hope it'll
get to you. If not, here is what was sent:
---CLIP------CLIP---
I took a picture of the area where I re-connected the vacuum lines, on
the passenger-side rear of the intake manifold. The line that is
circled, that is the one that seemed to have come loose and is making
the high-pitched noise. Running next to this vacuum hose was the hose
that featured a connector that seemed to be blocked (instead of it
having a hole, it had a piece of metal sealing it shut).
URL for the pic:
[url]http://www.voteneko.com/mysteryblock/HPIM0417.jpg[/url]
As I said earlier, when I completely plugged the vacuum line with my
thumb, the car idled "perfectly." With it connected to the intake
manifold, it makes a high-pitched noise and the car seems to idle about
200rpm faster (from 800 to 1000).
I tried to find the vacuum diagrams in my Chilton's but was unable to
find them. I'll try flipping through the pages again to find 'em.
Thanks!!
---CLIP------CLIP---
Coyoteboy wrote:[color=blue]
> J wrote:[color=green]
> > OK, it's on the passenger side, near the firewall, within the engine
> > bay. I found three lines actually that were disconnected. One was a[/color]
>
> Must admit im struggling to picture them in my head. Most vac hoses are
> cut-to-length items so their attachment points will be very close. Also
> if you look at a chiltons manual, or similar, you should have a vacuum
> diagram in there which will help identify them. Drop me an email with a
> couple of pics, via my website, [url]http://www.jbuckle.homeip.net/[/url] or post
> them in my forum for me to browse.[/color]
J wrote:[color=blue]
> I sent you a message via the contact form on your website. Hope it'll
> get to you. If not, here is what was sent:
>
> ---CLIP------CLIP---
> I took a picture of the area where I re-connected the vacuum lines, on
> the passenger-side rear of the intake manifold. The line that is
> circled, that is the one that seemed to have come loose and is making
> the high-pitched noise. Running next to this vacuum hose was the hose
> that featured a connector that seemed to be blocked (instead of it
> having a hole, it had a piece of metal sealing it shut).
>
> URL for the pic:
> [url]http://www.voteneko.com/mysteryblock/HPIM0417.jpg[/url]
>
> As I said earlier, when I completely plugged the vacuum line with my
> thumb, the car idled "perfectly." With it connected to the intake
> manifold, it makes a high-pitched noise and the car seems to idle about
> 200rpm faster (from 800 to 1000).
>
> I tried to find the vacuum diagrams in my Chilton's but was unable to
> find them. I'll try flipping through the pages again to find 'em.
>
> Thanks!!
> ---CLIP------CLIP---
>
>
> Coyoteboy wrote:[color=green]
> > J wrote:[color=darkred]
> > > OK, it's on the passenger side, near the firewall, within the engine
> > > bay. I found three lines actually that were disconnected. One was a[/color]
> >
> > Must admit im struggling to picture them in my head. Most vac hoses are
> > cut-to-length items so their attachment points will be very close. Also
> > if you look at a chiltons manual, or similar, you should have a vacuum
> > diagram in there which will help identify them. Drop me an email with a
> > couple of pics, via my website, [url]http://www.jbuckle.homeip.net/[/url] or post
> > them in my forum for me to browse.[/color][/color]
J wrote:
[color=blue]
> I tried to find the vacuum diagrams in my Chilton's but was unable to
> find them. I'll try flipping through the pages again to find 'em.[/color]
For my Nissan, I found that the Chilton's vacuum and wiring diagrams
were inaccurate, the wiring diagram grossly so, while the diagrams in
the Mitchell manual (libraries have them, in print, CD-ROM, or on-line)
were accurate.
J wrote:
[color=blue]
> I tried to find the vacuum diagrams in my Chilton's but was unable to
> find them. I'll try flipping through the pages again to find 'em.[/color]
For my Nissan, I found that the Chilton's vacuum and wiring diagrams
were inaccurate, the wiring diagram grossly so, while the diagrams in
the Mitchell manual (libraries have them, in print, CD-ROM, or on-line)
were accurate.
Yes, I did find the vacuum diagrams in my Chilton's manual and like
you, they were inaccurate. Figures, the two hoses that I was
questioning are not in the diagrams (shows three hoses when there is at
least five).
I used some teflon (plumber's) tape and wrapped it around the outlet
for the hose on the intake manifold. This seems to have helped
SLIGHTLY.
On another note, placing the vacuum lines back in their respective
places has reduced the mystery noises that I kept hearing when I would
drive at regular road speeds.
larry moe 'n curly wrote:[color=blue]
> J wrote:
>[color=green]
> > I tried to find the vacuum diagrams in my Chilton's but was unable to
> > find them. I'll try flipping through the pages again to find 'em.[/color]
>
> For my Nissan, I found that the Chilton's vacuum and wiring diagrams
> were inaccurate, the wiring diagram grossly so, while the diagrams in
> the Mitchell manual (libraries have them, in print, CD-ROM, or on-line)
> were accurate.[/color]
I was considering just replacing the vacuum hose where the link is
coming from. However, the hose has a special "connector" inserted into
the end of the hose to get it to fit.Would I be able to buy a hose that
has this connector at the end?
Coyoteboy wrote:[color=blue]
> I have to admit im not familiar with the engine so i cant give you
> definitive answers on that :( Sorry![/color]
"J" <omnineko@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1163039921.415690.295780@m7g2000cwm.googlegroups.com...[color=blue]
>I was considering just replacing the vacuum hose where the link is
> coming from. However, the hose has a special "connector" inserted into
> the end of the hose to get it to fit.Would I be able to buy a hose that
> has this connector at the end?[/color]
Vacuum hose usually is sold by the foot in bulk. Save the old connector and
use it on the replacement hose.
--
Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)[color=blue]
>
> Coyoteboy wrote:[color=green]
>> I have to admit im not familiar with the engine so i cant give you
>> definitive answers on that :( Sorry![/color]
>[/color]
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