Our 2004 Sienna has 40,000 miles. My wife just called from our Toyota
dealer because they wanted to do several things I had never heard of
before.
1. Change power steering fluid.
2. Flush air conditioner.
3. Not too sure of this but related to cleaning carbon from
an intake....really not clear....
Is this a muffler bearing scam because it was my wife who brought in
the vehicle and not me?
In article <735kl29faqpq6vjct87dccrar7n41sk4ed@4ax.com>,
chucksterpdr$$$@yahoo.com wrote:
[color=blue]
> Our 2004 Sienna has 40,000 miles. My wife just called from our Toyota
> dealer because they wanted to do several things I had never heard of
> before.
> 1. Change power steering fluid.
> 2. Flush air conditioner.
> 3. Not too sure of this but related to cleaning carbon from
> an intake....really not clear....
>
> Is this a muffler bearing scam because it was my wife who brought in
> the vehicle and not me?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Chuck
>
> to reply take out the $$$[/color]
It's most likely honest work, however you have to ask yourself does my
04 Sienna need it. In my case and with my 04 Sienna like yours, I have
only had my oil changed every 3000 miles and my tires rotated once.
Personally I'd leave tha A/C alone if it's working ok, ditto on the PS
fluid.
--
I spoke to Toyota and they said they didn't know anything about
maintenance related to flushing air conditioner or intake manifold.
I can't imagine the PS fluid needing to be changed..I don't remember
ever changing it even on my American cars, especially at 40K.
Toyota said that at 40K there were very few maintenance items and
nothing included the air conditioner. I'm waiting for my wife to come
home so I can see the work order....
In article <n99kl25miuhlecvsgt6ve8j7qorhboure6@4ax.com>,
Chucksterpdr$$$@yahoo.com wrote:
[color=blue]
> Correction, intake manifold carbon removal.
>
> Just pissed and can't even type.
>
> Chuck[/color]
Chuck, I don't blame you. I've never had an intake manifold cleaned
except once on a 1973 Dodge dart, I did it myself and the only reason
was the crossover passage was plugged. I don't think you need any of
that stuff done either. Toyotas and other cars of the same vintage are
all good and should not need that kind of stuff done to them.
--
<chucksterpdr$$$@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:735kl29faqpq6vjct87dccrar7n41sk4ed@4ax.com...[color=blue]
> Our 2004 Sienna has 40,000 miles. My wife just called from our Toyota
> dealer because they wanted to do several things I had never heard of
> before.
> 1. Change power steering fluid.
> 2. Flush air conditioner.
> 3. Not too sure of this but related to cleaning carbon from
> an intake....really not clear....
>
> Is this a muffler bearing scam because it was my wife who brought in
> the vehicle and not me?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Chuck
>
> to reply take out the $$$[/color]
Pass on all 3 and follow the maintenance routine in your owner's manual.
Toyota is fairly knowledgeable about the products they build, and it is safe
to follow their recommendations.
--
I just spoke to customer relations at Marina del Rey Toyota. I told
him that the attempt to flog those three items on an unsuspecting
customer was what I would expect from Jiffy Lube not a Toyota dealer.
He agreed and was going to speak to the service writer. BTW I checked
the PS unit and there is no indication that anyone even looked at
because the screw-on cover had dirt all over it and no indication that
anyone had opened the unit to look at the fluid.
At 64,000km (40,000miles) the service that is scheduled for a 2004
Sienna Front Wheel Drive is as follows:
64,000 km* Maintenance Service $109.95
Required Services
Inspect fuel system included
Inspect valve clearance (audibly) included
Replace engine coolant $99.95
Replace Cabin Air Filter $49.95
Total $259.85
Source: Toyota Canada
MAINTENANCE SERVICE $109.95
Every Maintenance Service includes the following operations:
- Replace engine oil & filter
- Remove & inspect air filter element (replace when required)
- Lubricate locks, latches & hinges
- Confirm lights, horn & wipers function properly
- Check coolant, brake, automatic transmission & washer fluid levels
- Inspect drive belts for damage, adjust belt tension if required
- Check steering gear box, linkage and shock absorbers for looseness,
damage or leakage
- Inspect ball joints and dust covers, driveshaft and steering rack
boots, chassis nuts & bolts for looseness or damage
- Remove wheel and brake drum, check pad/shoe thickness. Examine brake
calipers, wheel cylinders and brake lines for proper function, leaks
or
--damage. Adjust rear brakes as required.
- Inspect exhaust system for leaks or damage
- Examine tires for damage and wear, check & adjust pressure. Rotate
tires if needed.**
- Road test.
Please Note:
- This schedule is based on your current driving habits. Should your
driving habits change, please see your Dealer.
- For minimum maintenance requirements and applicable Special
Operating Conditions, please refer to your Owner's Manual Supplement.
- All service prices include parts, lubricants and labour.
- Applicable taxes are not included.
- Prices for "REQUIRED SERVICES" items may be higher if not performed
with applicable service.
- 5w20 and 5w30 motor oil only. Extra charge may apply for trucks.
Waste disposal charges may apply.
- Recommended maintenance and pricing in effect from October 1, 2006
and subject to change.
** Rotate tires every 12 months/16,000 km or sooner if required.
(Additional charge.) Note: The appropriate interval depends on factors
such as vehicle design, snow tire usage, driving habits and road
conditions.
On Tue, 14 Nov 2006 19:10:00 GMT, chucksterpdr$$$@yahoo.com wrote:
[color=blue]
>Our 2004 Sienna has 40,000 miles. My wife just called from our Toyota
>dealer because they wanted to do several things I had never heard of
>before.
> 1. Change power steering fluid.
> 2. Flush air conditioner.
> 3. Not too sure of this but related to cleaning carbon from
> an intake....really not clear....
>
>Is this a muffler bearing scam because it was my wife who brought in
>the vehicle and not me?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Chuck
>
>to reply take out the $$$[/color]
chucksterpdr$$$@yahoo.com wrote:[color=blue]
> I just spoke to customer relations at Marina del Rey Toyota. I told
> him that the attempt to flog those three items on an unsuspecting
> customer was what I would expect from Jiffy Lube not a Toyota dealer.
> He agreed and was going to speak to the service writer. BTW I checked[/color]
yup- he'll get a pat on the back. service writers and F&I guys are the
two people that bring in the kinda money that allows the franchise owner
to make those yacht payments.
[color=blue]
> the PS unit and there is no indication that anyone even looked at
> because the screw-on cover had dirt all over it and no indication that
> anyone had opened the unit to look at the fluid.[/color]
i dont let dealers do ANYTHING but sell me the car :)[color=blue]
>
> Thanks for all the advice.
>
> Chuck[/color]
On Thu, 16 Nov 2006 19:22:22 GMT, chucksterpdr$$$@yahoo.com wrote:
[color=blue]
>Thanks to each of you for taking the time to advise me on this issue.
>
>Can't let those guys get too comfortable....Imagine flush the air
>conditioner...If I want a reaming like that I can go to Jiffy Lube.
>
>Great NG..
>
>Chuck[/color]
Actually it is a good idea.
We do it here in Florida to get all the junk out of the system.
On Thu, 16 Nov 2006 19:22:22 GMT, chucksterpdr$$$@yahoo.com wrote:
[color=blue]
>Thanks to each of you for taking the time to advise me on this issue.
>
>Can't let those guys get too comfortable....Imagine flush the air
>conditioner...If I want a reaming like that I can go to Jiffy Lube.
>
>Great NG..[/color]
There are ways to flush the AC for real, but most people never need
to use them. And unless you have the symptoms that need fixing,
they're simply a waste of money and time.
If you get a stinky air conditioner because of buildup of mold or
bacteria in the heater box from the wet conditions on the evaporator
coil, or the drain line keeps getting clogged by slime molds, they
have a chemical cleaner that they spray into the heater box. That
foaming alkali cleaner dissolves the gunk so it flushes out through
the condensate drain, and changes the PH so it won't come back for a
while.
They also have "Pan Tabs" (meant for home systems) that time release
the drain-cleaning part of the chemistry, to keep the mold away for
several months. (Like a little urinal cake, they dissolve over time.)
You need a bigger access hole to get them inside.
There is also an internal flush for the refrigeration sealed system,
but that's usually only needed for home AC systems - on a car the
compressor drive is external, there is no electric motor to burn up.
And chemical conditions that cause problems inside are rare.
On home/commercial AC systems, if the hermetic compressor motor
burns up it is sealed inside the refrigeration system and spreads a
lot of acids and debris through the system. The debris and acidity
will hurt the new compressor if left inside.
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