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Old 12-20-2006, 09:51 AM   #1 (permalink)
grh7526@comcast.net
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1989 Toyota Pickup Idle Problem

I rebuilt my toyota's 22re motor. When I start the truck it idles
perfectly fine. As the truck warms up the idle starts to die. Once the
temperature reaches its peak of 180 or 185 the truck wants to stall.
The thermostat will kick in and the temperature goes down and the idle
goes back up. When I start the truck it is idling at about 1200 rpm
which I know is adjustable. When it gets hot it either stalls or it
will idle at 400-500 rpm. When it cools down it then idles at around
800 rpm. When I put the truck back together I had to check all of my
vacuum lines and put them back in the right spot with the diagram on
the hood. The piece in the diagram that has Gas F written to the left
of it shows 2 vacuum lines coming out. The one that is on my truck has
3 vacuum line ports. I dont know where the other one goes and I cant
find any other place it could go. Could this be the problem? If so does
anyone know where that line is supposed to go?
Thank You

 
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Old 12-20-2006, 09:58 AM   #2 (permalink)
grh7526@comcast.net
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Re: 1989 Toyota Pickup Idle Problem



On Dec 20, 10:51 am, grh7...@comcast.net wrote:
I had put a plug on the empty vacuum port and also the truck is not
over heating.

 
Old 12-20-2006, 10:57 AM   #3 (permalink)
Ray O
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Re: 1989 Toyota Pickup Idle Problem


<grh7526@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:1166629889.414755.17990@n67g2000cwd.googlegroups.com...[color=blue]
>I rebuilt my toyota's 22re motor. When I start the truck it idles
> perfectly fine. As the truck warms up the idle starts to die. Once the
> temperature reaches its peak of 180 or 185 the truck wants to stall.
> The thermostat will kick in and the temperature goes down and the idle
> goes back up. When I start the truck it is idling at about 1200 rpm
> which I know is adjustable. When it gets hot it either stalls or it
> will idle at 400-500 rpm. When it cools down it then idles at around
> 800 rpm. When I put the truck back together I had to check all of my
> vacuum lines and put them back in the right spot with the diagram on
> the hood. The piece in the diagram that has Gas F written to the left
> of it shows 2 vacuum lines coming out. The one that is on my truck has
> 3 vacuum line ports. I dont know where the other one goes and I cant
> find any other place it could go. Could this be the problem? If so does
> anyone know where that line is supposed to go?
> Thank You
>[/color]

Try disconnecting and plugging the vacuum lines to the EGR valve and see if
the problem clears up. If so, you may have the vacuum lines to the EGR
valve mis-routed or have a problem with the EGR vacuum controls.
--

Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)


 
Old 12-20-2006, 05:55 PM   #4 (permalink)
grh7526@comcast.net
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Re: 1989 Toyota Pickup Idle Problem

When you say try disconnecting and plugging the vacuum lines to the EGR
valve what do you mean? Disconnect and reconnect the vacuum lines on
the EGR? If you mean disconnecting certain vacuum lines and plugging
them into the EGR for direct connection please specify which ones.
Thanks

 
Old 12-20-2006, 11:04 PM   #5 (permalink)
Ray O
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Re: 1989 Toyota Pickup Idle Problem


<grh7526@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:1166658947.509049.210490@a3g2000cwd.googlegroups.com...[color=blue]
> When you say try disconnecting and plugging the vacuum lines to the EGR
> valve what do you mean? Disconnect and reconnect the vacuum lines on
> the EGR? If you mean disconnecting certain vacuum lines and plugging
> them into the EGR for direct connection please specify which ones.
> Thanks
>[/color]

If the EGR valve opens and starts recirculating exhaust gas while the engine
is idling, the engine will start to stall, so the purpose of disconnecting
the vacuum lines from the EGR is to see if it is causing the rough idling.

To temporarily disable the EGR valve, disconnect the vacuum hose(s) from the
modulator on the EGR (the modulator is the flying saucer shaped thing on top
of the EGR) and stick a golf tee or screw into the hose that you
disconnected so that you do not have a vacuum leak. If the stalling problem
clears up, then something is making the EGR valve open at idle, either the
vacuum hoses to the EGR valve are incorrectly routed, or there is a problem
with the vacuum switching valves in the EGR vacuum control circuit.

If the problem does not clear up when you disconnect the EGR valve, it is
possible that the EGR valve is stuck open or there is another problem.

Also, the extra vacuum line that is not connected should be blocked so that
you do not have a vacuum leak.

Other possible causes are vacuum leaks, problem with the air flow meter, or
problem with the idle control circuit.
--

Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)


 
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