Light problem on corolla 97 please help !

Hi,

After trying to install some neons in my 97 corolla I inadvertedly
shorted the wires that connects the LED which illuminates the ashtray
when the front lights are on. My left front light doesnt work anymore
(altough fogs do work), no lights on the dash and rear lights do not
work either (but break lights do). I checked all the fuses on the car
and they are all fine. Any hints ? I was told maybe the Daytime Running
Light box might be damaged but then why no lights on the dash and rear
?

alex

<champagne.alexandre@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1168496350.976319.102120@p59g2000hsd.googlegroups.com...[color=blue]
> Hi,
>
> After trying to install some neons in my 97 corolla I inadvertedly
> shorted the wires that connects the LED which illuminates the ashtray
> when the front lights are on. My left front light doesnt work anymore
> (altough fogs do work), no lights on the dash and rear lights do not
> work either (but break lights do). I checked all the fuses on the car
> and they are all fine. Any hints ? I was told maybe the Daytime Running
> Light box might be damaged but then why no lights on the dash and rear
> ?
>
> alex
>[/color]

If you are installing additional lights or accessories, the worst thing you
can do is to try to tap into a wire under the dashboard because the
additional draw from the accessory may be more than the wiring or the fuse
protecting the circuit can handle. The best way is to tap the fuse box with
an additional protected circuit.

If only one headlight does not work, check the headlight bulb. It may just
be coincidence that it is out.

Did you check ALL of the fuses in the car including the fuse boxes under the
hood and under the dashboard? Did you check the fuses visually or with a
meter? (hint - use a volt/ohm meter to check fuses) If you did short a
wire, then a fuse is probably blown.

If no fuses are blown then someone who is competent at diagnosing electrical
problems will probably need an electrical wiring diagram to trace the
problem.
--

Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)

> If you are installing additional lights or accessories, the worst thing you[color=blue]
> can do is to try to tap into a wire under the dashboard because the
> additional draw from the accessory may be more than the wiring or the fuse
> protecting the circuit can handle. The best way is to tap the fuse box with
> an additional protected circuit.[/color]

I should have thought about it :)
[color=blue]
> If only one headlight does not work, check the headlight bulb. It may just
> be coincidence that it is out.[/color]

I was thinking of doing that, since someone told me I might have simply
blown all those lights with the short-circuit. Thing is there seems to
be no current in the circuit as I checked the wires that were
short-circuited and no current there. Could be that this specific wire
was melt and other lights only blown...
[color=blue]
> Did you check ALL of the fuses in the car including the fuse boxes under the
> hood and under the dashboard? Did you check the fuses visually or with a
> meter? (hint - use a volt/ohm meter to check fuses) If you did short a
> wire, then a fuse is probably blown.[/color]

I checked them all visually and them seemed ok. Will check with a
voltmeter. I was also thinking some relay might have been blown but I
don't know how to check them.
[color=blue]
> If no fuses are blown then someone who is competent at diagnosing electrical
> problems will probably need an electrical wiring diagram to trace the
> problem.[/color]

For a couple hundred bucks I suppose :P

I was also told by a mechanic that it could be the Daylight Running
Module that is blown and that costs 250$ + labor... but why then dash
illumination would be out ? Seems like I have blown either a fuse or a
relay. All other options seem to be out since dash is out and one of my
headlight works just fine...

Thanks for the help, I will dig further on this.

Alex

<champagne.alexandre@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1168583277.262635.183410@i15g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...[color=blue][color=green]
>> If you are installing additional lights or accessories, the worst thing
>> you
>> can do is to try to tap into a wire under the dashboard because the
>> additional draw from the accessory may be more than the wiring or the
>> fuse
>> protecting the circuit can handle. The best way is to tap the fuse box
>> with
>> an additional protected circuit.[/color]
>
> I should have thought about it :)
>[color=green]
>> If only one headlight does not work, check the headlight bulb. It may
>> just
>> be coincidence that it is out.[/color]
>
> I was thinking of doing that, since someone told me I might have simply
> blown all those lights with the short-circuit. Thing is there seems to
> be no current in the circuit as I checked the wires that were
> short-circuited and no current there. Could be that this specific wire
> was melt and other lights only blown...[/color]

A short-circuit should not blow all of the lights because the lights should
be protected by a fuse, fusible link, or circuit breaker. When you say that
there "seems to be no current in the circuit," how are you checking for
current? Are you using an ammeter to check current? I recommend checking
for voltage with a volt meter or a 12 volt test light instead.
[color=blue][color=green]
>> Did you check ALL of the fuses in the car including the fuse boxes under
>> the
>> hood and under the dashboard? Did you check the fuses visually or with a
>> meter? (hint - use a volt/ohm meter to check fuses) If you did short a
>> wire, then a fuse is probably blown.[/color]
>
> I checked them all visually and them seemed ok. Will check with a
> voltmeter. I was also thinking some relay might have been blown but I
> don't know how to check them.[/color]

A relay is basically a switch, but instead of moving a lever or pushing a
button to complete a circuit, a low amperage electro-magnet moves and
connects contacts that are designed to handle more amperage (current). By
using a relay, you can use thinner 14 gauge wire from the switch to the
relay and then use the heavier gauge wire from the power supply to the load.
For example, without a starter relay, you would have cables as thick as the
battery cables coming into the passenger compartment to the ignition switch.
[color=blue]
>[color=green]
>> If no fuses are blown then someone who is competent at diagnosing
>> electrical
>> problems will probably need an electrical wiring diagram to trace the
>> problem.[/color]
>
> For a couple hundred bucks I suppose :P[/color]

Start with the basics by using a volt meter to check fuses.[color=blue]
>
> I was also told by a mechanic that it could be the Daylight Running
> Module that is blown and that costs 250$ + labor... but why then dash
> illumination would be out ? Seems like I have blown either a fuse or a
> relay. All other options seem to be out since dash is out and one of my
> headlight works just fine...
>
> Thanks for the help, I will dig further on this.
>
> Alex
>[/color]

If all you did was short a wire, then I doubt if the DRL module is blown.
Again, with a factory repair manual and/or electrical diagram, available for
$10/day at [url]www.techinfo.toyota.com[/url], you can check the DRL module.
--

Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)