<jim_nospam_beasley@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1173078750.579371.185360@8g2000cwh.googlegroups.com...[color=blue]
> On Feb 25, 7:03 am, "Stewart DIBBS" <s...@pixcl.com> wrote:[color=green]
>> <jim_nospam_beas...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>>
>> news:1172355679.357802.94130@m58g2000cwm.googlegroups.com...
>>[color=darkred]
>> > My oil light goes on intermittently. When I start up, it's okay. After
>> > driving around for about 15 minutes, it comes on, sometimes steady,
>> > sometimes it flickers on and off. It was on while I was at a stop
>> > light, so I turned the engine off and back on, and the light went off.
>> > I did the same thing in my driveway when I got home and the same thing
>> > happened, it went out when I restarted the engine. I have it idleing
>> > in my driveway and the light is staying off.[/color]
>>
>> Do you have enough oil? What viscosity? What brand of filter was used?
>>
>> At 225000 miles, you should be using 10W30 or 10W40
>>
>> sd[/color]
>
> I would like to replace the oil pressure switch, but i'm not sure
> which one it is. Chilton's manual doesn't show a picture. I think it's
> right above the timing marks, with only one wire going to it. If
> that's it, does someone know an easy way to get it out? Chilton
> overlooks the difficulty of its location.
>
> I just changed the oil. It's 10W30, with a new filter.
>[/color]
I am not aware of any tricks to remove the oil pressure switch. Just unplug
the wire and reach down there with the appropriate tool.
--
On Mar 4, 11:17 pm, "Ray O" <rokigawaATtristarassociatesDOTcom> wrote:[color=blue]
> <jim_nospam_beas...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>
> news:1173078750.579371.185360@8g2000cwh.googlegroups.com...
>
>
>[color=green]
> > On Feb 25, 7:03 am, "Stewart DIBBS" <s...@pixcl.com> wrote:[color=darkred]
> >> <jim_nospam_beas...@yahoo.com> wrote in message[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >>news:1172355679.357802.94130@m58g2000cwm.googlegroups.com...[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >> > My oil light goes on intermittently. When I start up, it's okay. After
> >> > driving around for about 15 minutes, it comes on, sometimes steady,
> >> > sometimes it flickers on and off. It was on while I was at a stop
> >> > light, so I turned the engine off and back on, and the light went off.
> >> > I did the same thing in my driveway when I got home and the same thing
> >> > happened, it went out when I restarted the engine. I have it idleing
> >> > in my driveway and the light is staying off.[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >> Do you have enough oil? What viscosity? What brand of filter was used?[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >> At 225000 miles, you should be using 10W30 or 10W40[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >> sd[/color][/color]
>[color=green]
> > I would like to replace the oil pressure switch, but i'm not sure
> > which one it is. Chilton's manual doesn't show a picture. I think it's
> > right above the timing marks, with only one wire going to it. If
> > that's it, does someone know an easy way to get it out? Chilton
> > overlooks the difficulty of its location.[/color]
>[color=green]
> > I just changed the oil. It's 10W30, with a new filter.[/color]
>
> I am not aware of any tricks to remove the oil pressure switch. Just unplug
> the wire and reach down there with the appropriate tool.
> --
>
> Ray O
> (correct punctuation to reply)[/color]
I finally figured out what I had to do the get the oil pressure switch
out. I can get a deep socket wrench on it after I remove the
alternator belt and unplug the switch. The problem I am having now is
I can figure out how to disconnect the plug. There is no obvious way,
and I am guessing Toyota has some special tool to press all the
detents so the plug comes free.
I'm afraid I am going to break the connector trying to get it off. Can
someone tell me what the trick is? (I already broke one connector
trying to figure it our, and now the detents don't hold it on any
longer.)
<jim_nospam_beasley@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1173568950.978845.179420@8g2000cwh.googlegroups.com...[color=blue]
> On Mar 10, 1:16 pm, "Ray O" <rokigawaATtristarassociatesDOTcom> wrote:[color=green]
>> <jim_nospam_beas...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>>
>> news:1173560281.345496.29480@h3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...
>>
>>
>>[color=darkred]
>> > On Mar 4, 11:17 pm, "Ray O" <rokigawaATtristarassociatesDOTcom> wrote:
>> >> <jim_nospam_beas...@yahoo.com> wrote in message[/color]
>>[color=darkred]
>> >>news:1173078750.579371.185360@8g2000cwh.googlegroups.com...[/color]
>>[color=darkred]
>> >> > On Feb 25, 7:03 am, "Stewart DIBBS" <s...@pixcl.com> wrote:
>> >> >> <jim_nospam_beas...@yahoo.com> wrote in message[/color]
>>[color=darkred]
>> >> >>news:1172355679.357802.94130@m58g2000cwm.googlegroups.com...[/color]
>>[color=darkred]
>> >> >> > My oil light goes on intermittently. When I start up, it's okay.
>> >> >> > After
>> >> >> > driving around for about 15 minutes, it comes on, sometimes
>> >> >> > steady,
>> >> >> > sometimes it flickers on and off. It was on while I was at a stop
>> >> >> > light, so I turned the engine off and back on, and the light went
>> >> >> > off.
>> >> >> > I did the same thing in my driveway when I got home and the same
>> >> >> > thing
>> >> >> > happened, it went out when I restarted the engine. I have it
>> >> >> > idleing
>> >> >> > in my driveway and the light is staying off.[/color]
>>[color=darkred]
>> >> >> Do you have enough oil? What viscosity? What brand of filter was
>> >> >> used?[/color]
>>[color=darkred]
>> >> >> At 225000 miles, you should be using 10W30 or 10W40[/color]
>>[color=darkred]
>> >> >> sd[/color]
>>[color=darkred]
>> >> > I would like to replace the oil pressure switch, but i'm not sure
>> >> > which one it is. Chilton's manual doesn't show a picture. I think
>> >> > it's
>> >> > right above the timing marks, with only one wire going to it. If
>> >> > that's it, does someone know an easy way to get it out? Chilton
>> >> > overlooks the difficulty of its location.[/color]
>>[color=darkred]
>> >> > I just changed the oil. It's 10W30, with a new filter.[/color]
>>[color=darkred]
>> >> I am not aware of any tricks to remove the oil pressure switch. Just
>> >> unplug
>> >> the wire and reach down there with the appropriate tool.
>> >> --[/color]
>>[color=darkred]
>> >> Ray O
>> >> (correct punctuation to reply)[/color]
>>[color=darkred]
>> > I finally figured out what I had to do the get the oil pressure switch
>> > out. I can get a deep socket wrench on it after I remove the
>> > alternator belt and unplug the switch. The problem I am having now is
>> > I can figure out how to disconnect the plug. There is no obvious way,
>> > and I am guessing Toyota has some special tool to press all the
>> > detents so the plug comes free.[/color]
>>[color=darkred]
>> > I'm afraid I am going to break the connector trying to get it off. Can
>> > someone tell me what the trick is? (I already broke one connector
>> > trying to figure it our, and now the detents don't hold it on any
>> > longer.)[/color]
>>
>> If you already have the replacement switch, look at the connector. There
>> should be a tab that is perpendicular to the connector body. On the wire
>> harness side, there is a U-shaped locking connector that fits over the
>> tab
>> on the switch. Use an awl, very small screwdriver, or pick to gently
>> lift
>> the locking connector while pulling the harness off. Do not tug on any
>> of
>> the wires, pull by holding the connector body itself.
>> --
>>
>> Ray O
>> (correct punctuation to reply)[/color]
>
> Thanks for your help, Ray. I put a sliver of metal (cut from a razor
> blade) in where I thought the catch is, but I couldn't get it to work.
> I may have to turn this over to the dealer repair shop just to get the
> plug off, and have them do the switch replacement. This switch is just
> in a place where I can't get to it or see it very well, so, without a
> proper tool, I think I am going to break the plug. I don't want to end
> up with a badly seated or loose connector when I'm done.
>
>[/color]
Look at another electrical connector under the hood, like for the coolant
temperature switch, EGR position sensor, etc. The connectors under the hood
all pretty much work the same way.
--
On Mar 10, 5:27 pm, jim_nospam_beas...@yahoo.com wrote:[color=blue]
> On Mar 10, 4:01 pm, "Ray O" <rokigawaATtristarassociatesDOTcom> wrote:
>
>
>[color=green]
> > <jim_nospam_beas...@yahoo.com> wrote in message[/color]
>[color=green]
> >news:1173568950.978845.179420@8g2000cwh.googlegroups.com...[/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> > > On Mar 10, 1:16 pm, "Ray O" <rokigawaATtristarassociatesDOTcom> wrote:
> > >> <jim_nospam_beas...@yahoo.com> wrote in message[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> > >>news:1173560281.345496.29480@h3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> > >> > On Mar 4, 11:17 pm, "Ray O" <rokigawaATtristarassociatesDOTcom> wrote:
> > >> >> <jim_nospam_beas...@yahoo.com> wrote in message[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> > >> >>news:1173078750.579371.185360@8g2000cwh.googlegroups.com...[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> > >> >> > On Feb 25, 7:03 am, "Stewart DIBBS" <s...@pixcl.com> wrote:
> > >> >> >> <jim_nospam_beas...@yahoo.com> wrote in message[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> > >> >> >>news:1172355679.357802.94130@m58g2000cwm.googlegroups.com...[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> > >> >> >> > My oil light goes on intermittently. When I start up, it's okay.
> > >> >> >> > After
> > >> >> >> > driving around for about 15 minutes, it comes on, sometimes
> > >> >> >> > steady,
> > >> >> >> > sometimes it flickers on and off. It was on while I was at a stop
> > >> >> >> > light, so I turned the engine off and back on, and the light went
> > >> >> >> > off.
> > >> >> >> > I did the same thing in my driveway when I got home and the same
> > >> >> >> > thing
> > >> >> >> > happened, it went out when I restarted the engine. I have it
> > >> >> >> > idleing
> > >> >> >> > in my driveway and the light is staying off.[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> > >> >> >> Do you have enough oil? What viscosity? What brand of filter was
> > >> >> >> used?[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> > >> >> >> At 225000 miles, you should be using 10W30 or 10W40[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> > >> >> >> sd[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> > >> >> > I would like to replace the oil pressure switch, but i'm not sure
> > >> >> > which one it is. Chilton's manual doesn't show a picture. I think
> > >> >> > it's
> > >> >> > right above the timing marks, with only one wire going to it. If
> > >> >> > that's it, does someone know an easy way to get it out? Chilton
> > >> >> > overlooks the difficulty of its location.[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> > >> >> > I just changed the oil. It's 10W30, with a new filter.[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> > >> >> I am not aware of any tricks to remove the oil pressure switch. Just
> > >> >> unplug
> > >> >> the wire and reach down there with the appropriate tool.
> > >> >> --[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> > >> >> Ray O
> > >> >> (correct punctuation to reply)[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> > >> > I finally figured out what I had to do the get the oil pressure switch
> > >> > out. I can get a deep socket wrench on it after I remove the
> > >> > alternator belt and unplug the switch. The problem I am having now is
> > >> > I can figure out how to disconnect the plug. There is no obvious way,
> > >> > and I am guessing Toyota has some special tool to press all the
> > >> > detents so the plug comes free.[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> > >> > I'm afraid I am going to break the connector trying to get it off. Can
> > >> > someone tell me what the trick is? (I already broke one connector
> > >> > trying to figure it our, and now the detents don't hold it on any
> > >> > longer.)[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> > >> If you already have the replacement switch, look at the connector. There
> > >> should be a tab that is perpendicular to the connector body. On the wire
> > >> harness side, there is a U-shaped locking connector that fits over the
> > >> tab
> > >> on the switch. Use an awl, very small screwdriver, or pick to gently
> > >> lift
> > >> the locking connector while pulling the harness off. Do not tug on any
> > >> of
> > >> the wires, pull by holding the connector body itself.
> > >> --[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> > >> Ray O
> > >> (correct punctuation to reply)[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> > > Thanks for your help, Ray. I put a sliver of metal (cut from a razor
> > > blade) in where I thought the catch is, but I couldn't get it to work.
> > > I may have to turn this over to the dealer repair shop just to get the
> > > plug off, and have them do the switch replacement. This switch is just
> > > in a place where I can't get to it or see it very well, so, without a
> > > proper tool, I think I am going to break the plug. I don't want to end
> > > up with a badly seated or loose connector when I'm done.[/color][/color]
>[color=green]
> > Look at another electrical connector under the hood, like for the coolant
> > temperature switch, EGR position sensor, etc. The connectors under the hood
> > all pretty much work the same way.
> > --[/color]
>[color=green]
> > Ray O
> > (correct punctuation to reply)[/color]
>
> Success! I have removed the connector without damage. I fabricated
> three shims to insert under the detents of the connector and was able
> to remove it.
>
> Now I see that the oil switch required something other than a hex
> socket to remove. (The replacement witch that I bought uses a 7/8"
> deep socket. It looks nearly circular, like another special tool is
> required to remove it. I'll have to make a trip to the hardware stor
> to see if there is some tool I can use for this.
>
> I won't be surprised if the OEM switch has a left hand thread![/color]
After having goone through all of that, I found a tool tha probably
does what I need, WITHOUT removing the plug first!
[url]www.redhillsupply.com/AST7801.htm[/url] shows a tool kit for this sort of
thing. I don't know if it works for a Camry. I wonder where I can get
one fast?
"Ray O" <rokigawaATtristarassociatesDOTcom> wrote in message
news:33aa3$45f32027$47c2b532$28160@msgid.meganewsservers.com...
[color=blue]
> If you already have the replacement switch, look at the connector. There
> should be a tab that is perpendicular to the connector body. On the wire
> harness side, there is a U-shaped locking connector that fits over the tab
> on the switch. Use an awl, very small screwdriver, or pick to gently lift
> the locking connector while pulling the harness off. Do not tug on any of
> the wires, pull by holding the connector body itself.[/color]
That reminds me of an old joke about a cardiologist, medical student and
engineer.
When an engineer goes to pull a plug out of the wall, she goes, gets a firm
grip on the plug, and pulls it out surely, but gently.
A cardiologist yanks out the plug out by the cord.
And a medical student trips on the respiratior cord and pulls out the plub
with his feet.
The bottom line is never, ever pull out the plug by the wires.
On Mar 10, 10:12 pm, "Ray O" <rokigawaATtristarassociatesDOTcom>
wrote:[color=blue]
> <jim_nospam_beas...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>
> news:1173586348.709124.288660@64g2000cwx.googlegroups.com...
>
> <snipped>
>[color=green]
> > Finally, I removed the old switch with a 1-1/16" socket.
> > Unfortuneately, the new one didn't solve the intermittent light, so I
> > must have a pressure problem, after all.[/color]
>[color=green]
> > I was listening to the engine in the garage when the light was going
> > on and off, and I could hear a slight raspy sound when the light was
> > on. I wonder if that's the oil pump, or something is not getting its
> > oil. The dip stick shows full.[/color]
>
> I think I know what the problem is, but before I announce my guess, I have
> some questions...
>
> What model and model year is the car?
>
> Which engine?
>
> What is the oil change history?
>
> Did the engine ever go over 7,000 miles between oil changes?
> --
>
> Ray O
> (correct punctuation to reply)[/color]
The car is a 1996 Camry with 6 cyl engine. Oil changes were irregular,
and most close to 5K intervals, but occasionally it went longer.
Mileage is 225,000 miles. A lot of daily commuting, 50 to 100 miles
per day.
That raspy noise I heard when the oil pressure light goes on is not
very loud, and it goes away when the light is off. The engine sounds
okay when the light is off.
"Hachiroku ????" <Trueno@AE86.gts> wrote in message
news:%W%Ih.7319$t8.904@trndny02...[color=blue]
> On Sun, 11 Mar 2007 15:31:09 -0500, Ray O wrote:
>[color=green]
>>
>> <jim_nospam_beasley@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>> news:1173636383.804111.80630@8g2000cwh.googlegroups.com...[color=darkred]
>>> On Mar 10, 10:12 pm, "Ray O" <rokigawaATtristarassociatesDOTcom> wrote:
>>>> <jim_nospam_beas...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>>>>
>>>> news:1173586348.709124.288660@64g2000cwx.googlegroups.com...
>>>>
>>>> <snipped>
>>>>
>>>> > Finally, I removed the old switch with a 1-1/16" socket.
>>>> > Unfortuneately, the new one didn't solve the intermittent light, so I
>>>> > must have a pressure problem, after all.
>>>>
>>>> > I was listening to the engine in the garage when the light was going
>>>> > on and off, and I could hear a slight raspy sound when the light was
>>>> > on. I wonder if that's the oil pump, or something is not getting its
>>>> > oil. The dip stick shows full.
>>>>
>>>> I think I know what the problem is, but before I announce my guess, I
>>>> have
>>>> some questions...
>>>>
>>>> What model and model year is the car?
>>>>
>>>> Which engine?
>>>>
>>>> What is the oil change history?
>>>>
>>>> Did the engine ever go over 7,000 miles between oil changes? --
>>>>
>>>> Ray O
>>>> (correct punctuation to reply)
>>>
>>> The car is a 1996 Camry with 6 cyl engine. Oil changes were irregular,
>>> and most close to 5K intervals, but occasionally it went longer. Mileage
>>> is 225,000 miles. A lot of daily commuting, 50 to 100 miles per day.
>>>
>>> That raspy noise I heard when the oil pressure light goes on is not very
>>> loud, and it goes away when the light is off. The engine sounds okay
>>> when the light is off.
>>>
>>>[/color]
>> I suspect that you have some sludge buildup. You can confirm this by
>> removing a valve cover and looking at the camshaft area. The 1996 Camry
>> is not one of the vehicles covered by Toyota's customer assistance
>> program.
>>
>> Some other things you can try - one of those oil flush treatments before
>> you change your oil next time, or removing the oil pan and see if there
>> is
>> any buildup on the oil pump pickup screen. Something else that may help
>> is using 5W-30 oil.[/color]
>
>
> Hmmmm...Camry with a V-6, eh?
>
> The sound he's describing is very familiar to me, having had a '90 240SX
> and an '85 Celica GTS with the 22RE...that being the tensioner starving
> out and allowing the chain to slack, and rub up against the housing.
>
> But I am guessing the V-6 Camry had a timing belt and not a chain, so
> that's not it!
>
>[/color]
Timing belt...
--
On Mar 11, 1:31 pm, "Ray O" <rokigawaATtristarassociatesDOTcom> wrote:[color=blue]
> <jim_nospam_beas...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>
> news:1173636383.804111.80630@8g2000cwh.googlegroups.com...
>
>
>[color=green]
> > On Mar 10, 10:12 pm, "Ray O" <rokigawaATtristarassociatesDOTcom>
> > wrote:[color=darkred]
> >> <jim_nospam_beas...@yahoo.com> wrote in message[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >>news:1173586348.709124.288660@64g2000cwx.googlegroups.com...[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >> <snipped>[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >> > Finally, I removed the old switch with a 1-1/16" socket.
> >> > Unfortuneately, the new one didn't solve the intermittent light, so I
> >> > must have a pressure problem, after all.[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >> > I was listening to the engine in the garage when the light was going
> >> > on and off, and I could hear a slight raspy sound when the light was
> >> > on. I wonder if that's the oil pump, or something is not getting its
> >> > oil. The dip stick shows full.[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >> I think I know what the problem is, but before I announce my guess, I
> >> have
> >> some questions...[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >> What model and model year is the car?[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >> Which engine?[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >> What is the oil change history?[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >> Did the engine ever go over 7,000 miles between oil changes?
> >> --[/color][/color]
>[color=green][color=darkred]
> >> Ray O
> >> (correct punctuation to reply)[/color][/color]
>[color=green]
> > The car is a 1996 Camry with 6 cyl engine. Oil changes were irregular,
> > and most close to 5K intervals, but occasionally it went longer.
> > Mileage is 225,000 miles. A lot of daily commuting, 50 to 100 miles
> > per day.[/color]
>[color=green]
> > That raspy noise I heard when the oil pressure light goes on is not
> > very loud, and it goes away when the light is off. The engine sounds
> > okay when the light is off.[/color]
>
> I suspect that you have some sludge buildup. You can confirm this by
> removing a valve cover and looking at the camshaft area. The 1996 Camry is
> not one of the vehicles covered by Toyota's customer assistance program.
>
> Some other things you can try - one of those oil flush treatments before you
> change your oil next time, or removing the oil pan and see if there is any
> buildup on the oil pump pickup screen. Something else that may help is
> using 5W-30 oil.
> --
>
> Ray O
> (correct punctuation to reply)[/color]
What is an oil flush treatment? And can I do that myself? I can't find
much about it on the web. I would like to find some good solvent or
whatever to clean any sludge, if I find it. I don't want to use the
wrong stuff.
This will probably have to wait until next weekend. These things are
getting more complicated than they were back in the late 70s. I
replaced the clutch on my car back then, and every part was easy to
find and reach. (Transmission was heavy, though!)
I looked at taking the valve cover off, and the first thing I noticed
is this cosmetic plastic cover on top of it that looks like it's
connected to the valve cover with two pop rivets. They don't look like
they fit any wrench I ever saw, but they do look like pop rivets,
holding this thing right onto the top of the valve cover.
<jim_nospam_beasley@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1173677915.015801.45710@q40g2000cwq.googlegroups.com...[color=blue]
> On Mar 11, 1:31 pm, "Ray O" <rokigawaATtristarassociatesDOTcom> wrote:[color=green]
>> <jim_nospam_beas...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>>
>> news:1173636383.804111.80630@8g2000cwh.googlegroups.com...
>>
>>
>>[color=darkred]
>> > On Mar 10, 10:12 pm, "Ray O" <rokigawaATtristarassociatesDOTcom>
>> > wrote:
>> >> <jim_nospam_beas...@yahoo.com> wrote in message[/color]
>>[color=darkred]
>> >>news:1173586348.709124.288660@64g2000cwx.googlegroups.com...[/color]
>>[color=darkred]
>> >> <snipped>[/color]
>>[color=darkred]
>> >> > Finally, I removed the old switch with a 1-1/16" socket.
>> >> > Unfortuneately, the new one didn't solve the intermittent light, so
>> >> > I
>> >> > must have a pressure problem, after all.[/color]
>>[color=darkred]
>> >> > I was listening to the engine in the garage when the light was going
>> >> > on and off, and I could hear a slight raspy sound when the light was
>> >> > on. I wonder if that's the oil pump, or something is not getting its
>> >> > oil. The dip stick shows full.[/color]
>>[color=darkred]
>> >> I think I know what the problem is, but before I announce my guess, I
>> >> have
>> >> some questions...[/color]
>>[color=darkred]
>> >> What model and model year is the car?[/color]
>>[color=darkred]
>> >> Which engine?[/color]
>>[color=darkred]
>> >> What is the oil change history?[/color]
>>[color=darkred]
>> >> Did the engine ever go over 7,000 miles between oil changes?
>> >> --[/color]
>>[color=darkred]
>> >> Ray O
>> >> (correct punctuation to reply)[/color]
>>[color=darkred]
>> > The car is a 1996 Camry with 6 cyl engine. Oil changes were irregular,
>> > and most close to 5K intervals, but occasionally it went longer.
>> > Mileage is 225,000 miles. A lot of daily commuting, 50 to 100 miles
>> > per day.[/color]
>>[color=darkred]
>> > That raspy noise I heard when the oil pressure light goes on is not
>> > very loud, and it goes away when the light is off. The engine sounds
>> > okay when the light is off.[/color]
>>
>> I suspect that you have some sludge buildup. You can confirm this by
>> removing a valve cover and looking at the camshaft area. The 1996 Camry
>> is
>> not one of the vehicles covered by Toyota's customer assistance program.
>>
>> Some other things you can try - one of those oil flush treatments before
>> you
>> change your oil next time, or removing the oil pan and see if there is
>> any
>> buildup on the oil pump pickup screen. Something else that may help is
>> using 5W-30 oil.
>> --
>>
>> Ray O
>> (correct punctuation to reply)[/color]
>
> What is an oil flush treatment? And can I do that myself? I can't find
> much about it on the web. I would like to find some good solvent or
> whatever to clean any sludge, if I find it. I don't want to use the
> wrong stuff.[/color]
There are several engine flush products available at auto parts stores. You
usually add them to the oil and run the engine for 3 to 5 minutes, then
change the oil. These do-it-yourself products are probably only marginally
effective, if at all, but they are inexpensive to try and probably wouldn't
hurt an engine that is already sludged up.
[color=blue]
>
> This will probably have to wait until next weekend. These things are
> getting more complicated than they were back in the late 70s. I
> replaced the clutch on my car back then, and every part was easy to
> find and reach. (Transmission was heavy, though!)[/color]
Actually, the mechanical principles behind engines and transmissions have
not changed that much since I started tinkering around 1970. Controls have
become a little more complex, but when you look at them one at a time, they
are pretty straightforward.
[color=blue]
>
> I looked at taking the valve cover off, and the first thing I noticed
> is this cosmetic plastic cover on top of it that looks like it's
> connected to the valve cover with two pop rivets. They don't look like
> they fit any wrench I ever saw, but they do look like pop rivets,
> holding this thing right onto the top of the valve cover.
>[/color]
Go to this site for free access to Camry factory repair manuals:
[url]http://oregonstate.edu/~tongt/camry/index.html[/url]
use a 5 mm hex wrench (Allen wrench) to remove the 2 fasteners on the V-bank
cover.
--
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