1988 Corolla repair manual

Mike,
If you have access to a good library you should be able to borrow a
Chilton or similar manual for Toyotas that will instruct you how to
change brakes. I always did my own brake jobs on my 86 Corolla until it
was stolen 6 years ago. I wouldn't expect an 88 to be very different.
The braking system is quite generic with disks in the front and drums in
the rear. With my 86 Corolla and 84 Tercel I was able to do all brake
work with no special tools although some simple special tools are
helpful such as a tool to help remove the clips that hold drum pads in
place (a screwdriver works with more effort). For the front brakes
you'll need something to squeeze the large slave cylinder piston -- I
have always found that a medium size vice does the trick but there is a
special tool for this purpose as well.

I still have the factory manual for my 86 Corolla and I could scan the
pages on brake replacement and mail them or send copies via surface mail
if that would help. Someone else would need to comment on whether there
were any significant changes from 86 to 88 which I would doubt. Also
feel free to ask specific questions but if you've never done a brake job
perhaps you have no basis for asking a question.

I don't have a strong feeling about where you should buy the parts. I
have bought replacement brake parts both from the dealer and a very good
parts store in my area. In addition to pads it would probably be wise
to consider replacing other mechanical parts for an 88 especially if
these parts have never been changed before. I have bought rear slave
cylinders at my car parts store for about $15 and I have bought rebuild
kits from the dealer for the larger front cylinders. You can also buy
kits containing other parts such as clips and compression springs from
the dealer. You will not generally know if these parts need replacement
until you disassemble things. Finally it is a good idea to consider
repacking the rear bearings when you do the rear brakes. You only need
to have some bearing grease and buy new grease seals for this job. Oh,
and there is the issue of tightening a big nut on the rear that holds
everything together and tightens the bearings down just enough. You can
either use a cheap spring scale (like some type of postage scales) to
check for the right turning torque or in my case I've done it enough
times that I know when things are right by how much effort it takes to
start the wheel hub moving. All of this should be explained in a decent
manual.

If you want to mail me directly change "3e" in my address to "eee".

Roger

Mike wrote:[color=blue]
> Hello,
>
> I need to change the brakes on my 1988 Corolla. Its a standard sedan. I
> have never changed brakes before and I need a manual to follow. Is there
> a place on the internet where you can download the steps it takes to
> change brakes? I might need to change both the back and the front brakes
> but I will have to check them first to be sure.
>
> I also need a recommendation as to where to buy brake pads either on the
> internet or from a retail outlet. Could you order these online and have
> them shipped or is it simpler to just go to your local auto parts supply
> shop such as Canadian Tire or Lordco Auto Parts?
>
> I am located in Burnaby, BC, Canada.
>
>
>
> Thanks!
>
>[/color]

all you need is a jack, a jack stand "for safty", lug nut removal tool
"comes with jack tool kit for car", probly a 12mm and 14mm maybe a 17mm
depending on what needs to be removed on the car I cant remember on the FWD
models. however the caliper should have one mounting bolt the other is a
slide sleve, the pads will fall out...you will need to compress the piston
back into the caliper housing. DO NOT BLEED YOUR BREAKS UNLESS YOU REALY
KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOOING. Just compress them, its alot safer that way. you
can get new pads at any local automotive store pads shouldent cost much
rotars and drums will cost the most. Junk yards sell used rotors and drums,
I suggest taking off the rotors and drums and having them resurfaced at a
local machine shop its cost effective.

--
Enorym
[url]http://atomicinternet.homeip.net/xtra/myrone/[/url]
[email]Enorym@gmail.com[/email]
"Roger Levy" <rhl@i3e.org> wrote in message
news:p9cVd.88713$QS5.78103@trndny06...[color=blue]
> Mike,
> If you have access to a good library you should be able to borrow a
> Chilton or similar manual for Toyotas that will instruct you how to change
> brakes. I always did my own brake jobs on my 86 Corolla until it was
> stolen 6 years ago. I wouldn't expect an 88 to be very different. The
> braking system is quite generic with disks in the front and drums in the
> rear. With my 86 Corolla and 84 Tercel I was able to do all brake work
> with no special tools although some simple special tools are helpful such
> as a tool to help remove the clips that hold drum pads in place (a
> screwdriver works with more effort). For the front brakes you'll need
> something to squeeze the large slave cylinder piston -- I have always
> found that a medium size vice does the trick but there is a special tool
> for this purpose as well.
>
> I still have the factory manual for my 86 Corolla and I could scan the
> pages on brake replacement and mail them or send copies via surface mail
> if that would help. Someone else would need to comment on whether there
> were any significant changes from 86 to 88 which I would doubt. Also feel
> free to ask specific questions but if you've never done a brake job
> perhaps you have no basis for asking a question.
>
> I don't have a strong feeling about where you should buy the parts. I
> have bought replacement brake parts both from the dealer and a very good
> parts store in my area. In addition to pads it would probably be wise to
> consider replacing other mechanical parts for an 88 especially if these
> parts have never been changed before. I have bought rear slave cylinders
> at my car parts store for about $15 and I have bought rebuild kits from
> the dealer for the larger front cylinders. You can also buy kits
> containing other parts such as clips and compression springs from the
> dealer. You will not generally know if these parts need replacement until
> you disassemble things. Finally it is a good idea to consider repacking
> the rear bearings when you do the rear brakes. You only need to have some
> bearing grease and buy new grease seals for this job. Oh, and there is
> the issue of tightening a big nut on the rear that holds everything
> together and tightens the bearings down just enough. You can either use a
> cheap spring scale (like some type of postage scales) to check for the
> right turning torque or in my case I've done it enough times that I know
> when things are right by how much effort it takes to start the wheel hub
> moving. All of this should be explained in a decent manual.
>
> If you want to mail me directly change "3e" in my address to "eee".
>
> Roger
>
> Mike wrote:[color=green]
>> Hello,
>>
>> I need to change the brakes on my 1988 Corolla. Its a standard sedan. I
>> have never changed brakes before and I need a manual to follow. Is there
>> a place on the internet where you can download the steps it takes to
>> change brakes? I might need to change both the back and the front brakes
>> but I will have to check them first to be sure.
>>
>> I also need a recommendation as to where to buy brake pads either on the
>> internet or from a retail outlet. Could you order these online and have
>> them shipped or is it simpler to just go to your local auto parts supply
>> shop such as Canadian Tire or Lordco Auto Parts?
>>
>> I am located in Burnaby, BC, Canada.
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks!
>>[/color][/color]

Mike,
Unfortunately you're going to get conflicting advice - it comes with the
territory. I think for a car the age of yours it would be a really wise
thing to bleed the brakes, not to enable you to fiddle with the caliper
piston but because brake fluid gets dirty and picks up moisture which
inevitably starts corroding the inside of your master and slave cylinders
forming pits. This eventually leads to "spongy" brakes that are less safe
and you may find it necessary to replace all brake cylinders/calipers. If
you are determined to learn enough to rebuild the brakes then you certainly
will be capable of bleeding the brakes. With two people, one to press the
brake pedal and the other to do the bleeding, you need nothing more than a
wrench, maybe a screwdriver, a short piece of plastic tubing, and brake
fluid. If you intend to get further involved with car repair you can buy a
vacuum pump/gauge for maybe $60 that enables you to bleed the brakes without
an assistant. The vacuum pump/gauge has many other uses.

One other note - I think you'll find the caliper is mounted with two bolts
and each has a sleeve but you won't actually see the sleeve immediately.
The sleeves allow the caliper to float or move a bit from side to side.
Once you get the caliper off, make sure that both sleeves can be moved
freely from side to side because a common failure for this vintage Toyota is
for the rubber grease seals to crack, the grease to dry out, and the sleeve
to rust to the caliper body preventing it from moving. You'll have to
address that problem if you find it. The bolts holding the caliper may
really be tight and I once broke one removing it from a Toyota. You have to
be prepared for that kind of mishap, i.e. you have to be prepared for the
fact that although you can do the simplest brake job in an hour, depending
on the condition of what you find and whether anything goes wrong you may
put your car out of commission until you solve additional problems.

Raymond Cruz

"Myrone Bagalay" <enorym@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:jQcVd.10616$Pz7.1256@newssvr13.news.prodigy.com...[color=blue]
> all you need is a jack, a jack stand "for safty", lug nut removal tool
> "comes with jack tool kit for car", probly a 12mm and 14mm maybe a 17mm
> depending on what needs to be removed on the car I cant remember on the
> FWD models. however the caliper should have one mounting bolt the other
> is a slide sleve, the pads will fall out...you will need to compress the
> piston back into the caliper housing. DO NOT BLEED YOUR BREAKS UNLESS YOU
> REALY KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOOING. Just compress them, its alot safer that
> way. you can get new pads at any local automotive store pads shouldent
> cost much rotars and drums will cost the most. Junk yards sell used
> rotors and drums, I suggest taking off the rotors and drums and having
> them resurfaced at a local machine shop its cost effective.
>
> --
> Enorym[/color]

The Service manual for my 1995 Avalon actually reccomends opening the
bleeder if pushing back the piston(s) is difficult
"Raymond Cruz" <nobody@nowhere.net> wrote in message
news:lfiVd.47932$t46.3043@trndny04...[color=blue]
> Mike,
> Unfortunately you're going to get conflicting advice - it comes with the
> territory. I think for a car the age of yours it would be a really wise
> thing to bleed the brakes, not to enable you to fiddle with the caliper
> piston but because brake fluid gets dirty and picks up moisture which
> inevitably starts corroding the inside of your master and slave cylinders
> forming pits. This eventually leads to "spongy" brakes that are less safe
> and you may find it necessary to replace all brake cylinders/calipers. If
> you are determined to learn enough to rebuild the brakes then you[/color]
certainly[color=blue]
> will be capable of bleeding the brakes. With two people, one to press the
> brake pedal and the other to do the bleeding, you need nothing more than a
> wrench, maybe a screwdriver, a short piece of plastic tubing, and brake
> fluid. If you intend to get further involved with car repair you can buy[/color]
a[color=blue]
> vacuum pump/gauge for maybe $60 that enables you to bleed the brakes[/color]
without[color=blue]
> an assistant. The vacuum pump/gauge has many other uses.
>
> One other note - I think you'll find the caliper is mounted with two bolts
> and each has a sleeve but you won't actually see the sleeve immediately.
> The sleeves allow the caliper to float or move a bit from side to side.
> Once you get the caliper off, make sure that both sleeves can be moved
> freely from side to side because a common failure for this vintage Toyota[/color]
is[color=blue]
> for the rubber grease seals to crack, the grease to dry out, and the[/color]
sleeve[color=blue]
> to rust to the caliper body preventing it from moving. You'll have to
> address that problem if you find it. The bolts holding the caliper may
> really be tight and I once broke one removing it from a Toyota. You have[/color]
to[color=blue]
> be prepared for that kind of mishap, i.e. you have to be prepared for the
> fact that although you can do the simplest brake job in an hour, depending
> on the condition of what you find and whether anything goes wrong you may
> put your car out of commission until you solve additional problems.
>
> Raymond Cruz
>
> "Myrone Bagalay" <enorym@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
> news:jQcVd.10616$Pz7.1256@newssvr13.news.prodigy.com...[color=green]
> > all you need is a jack, a jack stand "for safty", lug nut removal tool
> > "comes with jack tool kit for car", probly a 12mm and 14mm maybe a 17mm
> > depending on what needs to be removed on the car I cant remember on the
> > FWD models. however the caliper should have one mounting bolt the other
> > is a slide sleve, the pads will fall out...you will need to compress[/color][/color]
the[color=blue][color=green]
> > piston back into the caliper housing. DO NOT BLEED YOUR BREAKS UNLESS[/color][/color]
YOU[color=blue][color=green]
> > REALY KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOOING. Just compress them, its alot safer that
> > way. you can get new pads at any local automotive store pads shouldent
> > cost much rotars and drums will cost the most. Junk yards sell used
> > rotors and drums, I suggest taking off the rotors and drums and having
> > them resurfaced at a local machine shop its cost effective.
> >
> > --
> > Enorym[/color]
>
>[/color]

"Mike" <designbase10@REMOVETHISshaw.ca> wrote in message
news:O18Vd.544578$6l.43702@pd7tw2no...[color=blue]
> Hello,
>
> I need to change the brakes on my 1988 Corolla. Its a standard sedan. I
> have never changed brakes before and I need a manual to follow. Is there a
> place on the internet where you can download the steps it takes to change
> brakes? I might need to change both the back and the front brakes but I
> will have to check them first to be sure.
>
> I also need a recommendation as to where to buy brake pads either on the
> internet or from a retail outlet. Could you order these online and have
> them shipped or is it simpler to just go to your local auto parts supply
> shop such as Canadian Tire or Lordco Auto Parts?
>
> I am located in Burnaby, BC, Canada.
>
>
>
> Thanks!
>
>
> --
> Mike
>[/color]
Try [url]www.autozone.com[/url] and use their "repair guides" link to find the one for
your car. The on-line instructions are pretty basic and generic but should
work for your purposes and has illustrations. I always recommend that you
use OEM parts if you can afford them but they tend to be priced higher than
aftermarket parts. You know the quality of the OEM parts because they were
already on the car. Since I don't know if a particular aftermarket part
will work at least as well as the OEM part in terms of quality, ease of
installation, or longevity, using OEM parts is less of a gamble to me.
--
Ray O
correct the return address punctuation to reply

I was dooing it from a safty standpoint in reality...since this gentalman
hasnt had experiance with dooing this as we all know it can be a complex
process and would take more than one person without proper equipment in
reality...its probly better if you have someone do the brakes for you.

--
Enorym
[url]http://atomicinternet.homeip.net/xtra/myrone/[/url]
[email]Enorym@gmail.com[/email]
"Raymond Cruz" <nobody@nowhere.net> wrote in message
news:lfiVd.47932$t46.3043@trndny04...[color=blue]
> Mike,
> Unfortunately you're going to get conflicting advice - it comes with the
> territory. I think for a car the age of yours it would be a really wise
> thing to bleed the brakes, not to enable you to fiddle with the caliper
> piston but because brake fluid gets dirty and picks up moisture which
> inevitably starts corroding the inside of your master and slave cylinders
> forming pits. This eventually leads to "spongy" brakes that are less safe
> and you may find it necessary to replace all brake cylinders/calipers. If
> you are determined to learn enough to rebuild the brakes then you
> certainly will be capable of bleeding the brakes. With two people, one to
> press the brake pedal and the other to do the bleeding, you need nothing
> more than a wrench, maybe a screwdriver, a short piece of plastic tubing,
> and brake fluid. If you intend to get further involved with car repair
> you can buy a vacuum pump/gauge for maybe $60 that enables you to bleed
> the brakes without an assistant. The vacuum pump/gauge has many other
> uses.
>
> One other note - I think you'll find the caliper is mounted with two bolts
> and each has a sleeve but you won't actually see the sleeve immediately.
> The sleeves allow the caliper to float or move a bit from side to side.
> Once you get the caliper off, make sure that both sleeves can be moved
> freely from side to side because a common failure for this vintage Toyota
> is for the rubber grease seals to crack, the grease to dry out, and the
> sleeve to rust to the caliper body preventing it from moving. You'll have
> to address that problem if you find it. The bolts holding the caliper may
> really be tight and I once broke one removing it from a Toyota. You have
> to be prepared for that kind of mishap, i.e. you have to be prepared for
> the fact that although you can do the simplest brake job in an hour,
> depending on the condition of what you find and whether anything goes
> wrong you may put your car out of commission until you solve additional
> problems.
>
> Raymond Cruz
>
> "Myrone Bagalay" <enorym@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
> news:jQcVd.10616$Pz7.1256@newssvr13.news.prodigy.com...[color=green]
>> all you need is a jack, a jack stand "for safty", lug nut removal tool
>> "comes with jack tool kit for car", probly a 12mm and 14mm maybe a 17mm
>> depending on what needs to be removed on the car I cant remember on the
>> FWD models. however the caliper should have one mounting bolt the other
>> is a slide sleve, the pads will fall out...you will need to compress the
>> piston back into the caliper housing. DO NOT BLEED YOUR BREAKS UNLESS
>> YOU REALY KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOOING. Just compress them, its alot safer
>> that way. you can get new pads at any local automotive store pads
>> shouldent cost much rotars and drums will cost the most. Junk yards sell
>> used rotors and drums, I suggest taking off the rotors and drums and
>> having them resurfaced at a local machine shop its cost effective.
>>
>> --
>> Enorym[/color]
>
>[/color]

Hello,

I need to change the brakes on my 1988 Corolla. Its a standard sedan. I
have never changed brakes before and I need a manual to follow. Is there
a place on the internet where you can download the steps it takes to
change brakes? I might need to change both the back and the front brakes
but I will have to check them first to be sure.

I also need a recommendation as to where to buy brake pads either on the
internet or from a retail outlet. Could you order these online and have
them shipped or is it simpler to just go to your local auto parts supply
shop such as Canadian Tire or Lordco Auto Parts?

I am located in Burnaby, BC, Canada.



Thanks!


--
Mike

Mike,
If you have access to a good library you should be able to borrow a
Chilton or similar manual for Toyotas that will instruct you how to
change brakes. I always did my own brake jobs on my 86 Corolla until it
was stolen 6 years ago. I wouldn't expect an 88 to be very different.
The braking system is quite generic with disks in the front and drums in
the rear. With my 86 Corolla and 84 Tercel I was able to do all brake
work with no special tools although some simple special tools are
helpful such as a tool to help remove the clips that hold drum pads in
place (a screwdriver works with more effort). For the front brakes
you'll need something to squeeze the large slave cylinder piston -- I
have always found that a medium size vice does the trick but there is a
special tool for this purpose as well.

I still have the factory manual for my 86 Corolla and I could scan the
pages on brake replacement and mail them or send copies via surface mail
if that would help. Someone else would need to comment on whether there
were any significant changes from 86 to 88 which I would doubt. Also
feel free to ask specific questions but if you've never done a brake job
perhaps you have no basis for asking a question.

I don't have a strong feeling about where you should buy the parts. I
have bought replacement brake parts both from the dealer and a very good
parts store in my area. In addition to pads it would probably be wise
to consider replacing other mechanical parts for an 88 especially if
these parts have never been changed before. I have bought rear slave
cylinders at my car parts store for about $15 and I have bought rebuild
kits from the dealer for the larger front cylinders. You can also buy
kits containing other parts such as clips and compression springs from
the dealer. You will not generally know if these parts need replacement
until you disassemble things. Finally it is a good idea to consider
repacking the rear bearings when you do the rear brakes. You only need
to have some bearing grease and buy new grease seals for this job. Oh,
and there is the issue of tightening a big nut on the rear that holds
everything together and tightens the bearings down just enough. You can
either use a cheap spring scale (like some type of postage scales) to
check for the right turning torque or in my case I've done it enough
times that I know when things are right by how much effort it takes to
start the wheel hub moving. All of this should be explained in a decent
manual.

If you want to mail me directly change "3e" in my address to "eee".

Roger

Mike wrote:[color=blue]
> Hello,
>
> I need to change the brakes on my 1988 Corolla. Its a standard sedan. I
> have never changed brakes before and I need a manual to follow. Is there
> a place on the internet where you can download the steps it takes to
> change brakes? I might need to change both the back and the front brakes
> but I will have to check them first to be sure.
>
> I also need a recommendation as to where to buy brake pads either on the
> internet or from a retail outlet. Could you order these online and have
> them shipped or is it simpler to just go to your local auto parts supply
> shop such as Canadian Tire or Lordco Auto Parts?
>
> I am located in Burnaby, BC, Canada.
>
>
>
> Thanks!
>
>[/color]

all you need is a jack, a jack stand "for safty", lug nut removal tool
"comes with jack tool kit for car", probly a 12mm and 14mm maybe a 17mm
depending on what needs to be removed on the car I cant remember on the FWD
models. however the caliper should have one mounting bolt the other is a
slide sleve, the pads will fall out...you will need to compress the piston
back into the caliper housing. DO NOT BLEED YOUR BREAKS UNLESS YOU REALY
KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOOING. Just compress them, its alot safer that way. you
can get new pads at any local automotive store pads shouldent cost much
rotars and drums will cost the most. Junk yards sell used rotors and drums,
I suggest taking off the rotors and drums and having them resurfaced at a
local machine shop its cost effective.

--
Enorym
[url]http://atomicinternet.homeip.net/xtra/myrone/[/url]
[email]Enorym@gmail.com[/email]
"Roger Levy" <rhl@i3e.org> wrote in message
news:p9cVd.88713$QS5.78103@trndny06...[color=blue]
> Mike,
> If you have access to a good library you should be able to borrow a
> Chilton or similar manual for Toyotas that will instruct you how to change
> brakes. I always did my own brake jobs on my 86 Corolla until it was
> stolen 6 years ago. I wouldn't expect an 88 to be very different. The
> braking system is quite generic with disks in the front and drums in the
> rear. With my 86 Corolla and 84 Tercel I was able to do all brake work
> with no special tools although some simple special tools are helpful such
> as a tool to help remove the clips that hold drum pads in place (a
> screwdriver works with more effort). For the front brakes you'll need
> something to squeeze the large slave cylinder piston -- I have always
> found that a medium size vice does the trick but there is a special tool
> for this purpose as well.
>
> I still have the factory manual for my 86 Corolla and I could scan the
> pages on brake replacement and mail them or send copies via surface mail
> if that would help. Someone else would need to comment on whether there
> were any significant changes from 86 to 88 which I would doubt. Also feel
> free to ask specific questions but if you've never done a brake job
> perhaps you have no basis for asking a question.
>
> I don't have a strong feeling about where you should buy the parts. I
> have bought replacement brake parts both from the dealer and a very good
> parts store in my area. In addition to pads it would probably be wise to
> consider replacing other mechanical parts for an 88 especially if these
> parts have never been changed before. I have bought rear slave cylinders
> at my car parts store for about $15 and I have bought rebuild kits from
> the dealer for the larger front cylinders. You can also buy kits
> containing other parts such as clips and compression springs from the
> dealer. You will not generally know if these parts need replacement until
> you disassemble things. Finally it is a good idea to consider repacking
> the rear bearings when you do the rear brakes. You only need to have some
> bearing grease and buy new grease seals for this job. Oh, and there is
> the issue of tightening a big nut on the rear that holds everything
> together and tightens the bearings down just enough. You can either use a
> cheap spring scale (like some type of postage scales) to check for the
> right turning torque or in my case I've done it enough times that I know
> when things are right by how much effort it takes to start the wheel hub
> moving. All of this should be explained in a decent manual.
>
> If you want to mail me directly change "3e" in my address to "eee".
>
> Roger
>
> Mike wrote:[color=green]
>> Hello,
>>
>> I need to change the brakes on my 1988 Corolla. Its a standard sedan. I
>> have never changed brakes before and I need a manual to follow. Is there
>> a place on the internet where you can download the steps it takes to
>> change brakes? I might need to change both the back and the front brakes
>> but I will have to check them first to be sure.
>>
>> I also need a recommendation as to where to buy brake pads either on the
>> internet or from a retail outlet. Could you order these online and have
>> them shipped or is it simpler to just go to your local auto parts supply
>> shop such as Canadian Tire or Lordco Auto Parts?
>>
>> I am located in Burnaby, BC, Canada.
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks!
>>[/color][/color]

Mike,
Unfortunately you're going to get conflicting advice - it comes with the
territory. I think for a car the age of yours it would be a really wise
thing to bleed the brakes, not to enable you to fiddle with the caliper
piston but because brake fluid gets dirty and picks up moisture which
inevitably starts corroding the inside of your master and slave cylinders
forming pits. This eventually leads to "spongy" brakes that are less safe
and you may find it necessary to replace all brake cylinders/calipers. If
you are determined to learn enough to rebuild the brakes then you certainly
will be capable of bleeding the brakes. With two people, one to press the
brake pedal and the other to do the bleeding, you need nothing more than a
wrench, maybe a screwdriver, a short piece of plastic tubing, and brake
fluid. If you intend to get further involved with car repair you can buy a
vacuum pump/gauge for maybe $60 that enables you to bleed the brakes without
an assistant. The vacuum pump/gauge has many other uses.

One other note - I think you'll find the caliper is mounted with two bolts
and each has a sleeve but you won't actually see the sleeve immediately.
The sleeves allow the caliper to float or move a bit from side to side.
Once you get the caliper off, make sure that both sleeves can be moved
freely from side to side because a common failure for this vintage Toyota is
for the rubber grease seals to crack, the grease to dry out, and the sleeve
to rust to the caliper body preventing it from moving. You'll have to
address that problem if you find it. The bolts holding the caliper may
really be tight and I once broke one removing it from a Toyota. You have to
be prepared for that kind of mishap, i.e. you have to be prepared for the
fact that although you can do the simplest brake job in an hour, depending
on the condition of what you find and whether anything goes wrong you may
put your car out of commission until you solve additional problems.

Raymond Cruz

"Myrone Bagalay" <enorym@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:jQcVd.10616$Pz7.1256@newssvr13.news.prodigy.com...[color=blue]
> all you need is a jack, a jack stand "for safty", lug nut removal tool
> "comes with jack tool kit for car", probly a 12mm and 14mm maybe a 17mm
> depending on what needs to be removed on the car I cant remember on the
> FWD models. however the caliper should have one mounting bolt the other
> is a slide sleve, the pads will fall out...you will need to compress the
> piston back into the caliper housing. DO NOT BLEED YOUR BREAKS UNLESS YOU
> REALY KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOOING. Just compress them, its alot safer that
> way. you can get new pads at any local automotive store pads shouldent
> cost much rotars and drums will cost the most. Junk yards sell used
> rotors and drums, I suggest taking off the rotors and drums and having
> them resurfaced at a local machine shop its cost effective.
>
> --
> Enorym[/color]

The Service manual for my 1995 Avalon actually reccomends opening the
bleeder if pushing back the piston(s) is difficult
"Raymond Cruz" <nobody@nowhere.net> wrote in message
news:lfiVd.47932$t46.3043@trndny04...[color=blue]
> Mike,
> Unfortunately you're going to get conflicting advice - it comes with the
> territory. I think for a car the age of yours it would be a really wise
> thing to bleed the brakes, not to enable you to fiddle with the caliper
> piston but because brake fluid gets dirty and picks up moisture which
> inevitably starts corroding the inside of your master and slave cylinders
> forming pits. This eventually leads to "spongy" brakes that are less safe
> and you may find it necessary to replace all brake cylinders/calipers. If
> you are determined to learn enough to rebuild the brakes then you[/color]
certainly[color=blue]
> will be capable of bleeding the brakes. With two people, one to press the
> brake pedal and the other to do the bleeding, you need nothing more than a
> wrench, maybe a screwdriver, a short piece of plastic tubing, and brake
> fluid. If you intend to get further involved with car repair you can buy[/color]
a[color=blue]
> vacuum pump/gauge for maybe $60 that enables you to bleed the brakes[/color]
without[color=blue]
> an assistant. The vacuum pump/gauge has many other uses.
>
> One other note - I think you'll find the caliper is mounted with two bolts
> and each has a sleeve but you won't actually see the sleeve immediately.
> The sleeves allow the caliper to float or move a bit from side to side.
> Once you get the caliper off, make sure that both sleeves can be moved
> freely from side to side because a common failure for this vintage Toyota[/color]
is[color=blue]
> for the rubber grease seals to crack, the grease to dry out, and the[/color]
sleeve[color=blue]
> to rust to the caliper body preventing it from moving. You'll have to
> address that problem if you find it. The bolts holding the caliper may
> really be tight and I once broke one removing it from a Toyota. You have[/color]
to[color=blue]
> be prepared for that kind of mishap, i.e. you have to be prepared for the
> fact that although you can do the simplest brake job in an hour, depending
> on the condition of what you find and whether anything goes wrong you may
> put your car out of commission until you solve additional problems.
>
> Raymond Cruz
>
> "Myrone Bagalay" <enorym@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
> news:jQcVd.10616$Pz7.1256@newssvr13.news.prodigy.com...[color=green]
> > all you need is a jack, a jack stand "for safty", lug nut removal tool
> > "comes with jack tool kit for car", probly a 12mm and 14mm maybe a 17mm
> > depending on what needs to be removed on the car I cant remember on the
> > FWD models. however the caliper should have one mounting bolt the other
> > is a slide sleve, the pads will fall out...you will need to compress[/color][/color]
the[color=blue][color=green]
> > piston back into the caliper housing. DO NOT BLEED YOUR BREAKS UNLESS[/color][/color]
YOU[color=blue][color=green]
> > REALY KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOOING. Just compress them, its alot safer that
> > way. you can get new pads at any local automotive store pads shouldent
> > cost much rotars and drums will cost the most. Junk yards sell used
> > rotors and drums, I suggest taking off the rotors and drums and having
> > them resurfaced at a local machine shop its cost effective.
> >
> > --
> > Enorym[/color]
>
>[/color]

"Mike" <designbase10@REMOVETHISshaw.ca> wrote in message
news:O18Vd.544578$6l.43702@pd7tw2no...[color=blue]
> Hello,
>
> I need to change the brakes on my 1988 Corolla. Its a standard sedan. I
> have never changed brakes before and I need a manual to follow. Is there a
> place on the internet where you can download the steps it takes to change
> brakes? I might need to change both the back and the front brakes but I
> will have to check them first to be sure.
>
> I also need a recommendation as to where to buy brake pads either on the
> internet or from a retail outlet. Could you order these online and have
> them shipped or is it simpler to just go to your local auto parts supply
> shop such as Canadian Tire or Lordco Auto Parts?
>
> I am located in Burnaby, BC, Canada.
>
>
>
> Thanks!
>
>
> --
> Mike
>[/color]
Try [url]www.autozone.com[/url] and use their "repair guides" link to find the one for
your car. The on-line instructions are pretty basic and generic but should
work for your purposes and has illustrations. I always recommend that you
use OEM parts if you can afford them but they tend to be priced higher than
aftermarket parts. You know the quality of the OEM parts because they were
already on the car. Since I don't know if a particular aftermarket part
will work at least as well as the OEM part in terms of quality, ease of
installation, or longevity, using OEM parts is less of a gamble to me.
--
Ray O
correct the return address punctuation to reply

I was dooing it from a safty standpoint in reality...since this gentalman
hasnt had experiance with dooing this as we all know it can be a complex
process and would take more than one person without proper equipment in
reality...its probly better if you have someone do the brakes for you.

--
Enorym
[url]http://atomicinternet.homeip.net/xtra/myrone/[/url]
[email]Enorym@gmail.com[/email]
"Raymond Cruz" <nobody@nowhere.net> wrote in message
news:lfiVd.47932$t46.3043@trndny04...[color=blue]
> Mike,
> Unfortunately you're going to get conflicting advice - it comes with the
> territory. I think for a car the age of yours it would be a really wise
> thing to bleed the brakes, not to enable you to fiddle with the caliper
> piston but because brake fluid gets dirty and picks up moisture which
> inevitably starts corroding the inside of your master and slave cylinders
> forming pits. This eventually leads to "spongy" brakes that are less safe
> and you may find it necessary to replace all brake cylinders/calipers. If
> you are determined to learn enough to rebuild the brakes then you
> certainly will be capable of bleeding the brakes. With two people, one to
> press the brake pedal and the other to do the bleeding, you need nothing
> more than a wrench, maybe a screwdriver, a short piece of plastic tubing,
> and brake fluid. If you intend to get further involved with car repair
> you can buy a vacuum pump/gauge for maybe $60 that enables you to bleed
> the brakes without an assistant. The vacuum pump/gauge has many other
> uses.
>
> One other note - I think you'll find the caliper is mounted with two bolts
> and each has a sleeve but you won't actually see the sleeve immediately.
> The sleeves allow the caliper to float or move a bit from side to side.
> Once you get the caliper off, make sure that both sleeves can be moved
> freely from side to side because a common failure for this vintage Toyota
> is for the rubber grease seals to crack, the grease to dry out, and the
> sleeve to rust to the caliper body preventing it from moving. You'll have
> to address that problem if you find it. The bolts holding the caliper may
> really be tight and I once broke one removing it from a Toyota. You have
> to be prepared for that kind of mishap, i.e. you have to be prepared for
> the fact that although you can do the simplest brake job in an hour,
> depending on the condition of what you find and whether anything goes
> wrong you may put your car out of commission until you solve additional
> problems.
>
> Raymond Cruz
>
> "Myrone Bagalay" <enorym@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
> news:jQcVd.10616$Pz7.1256@newssvr13.news.prodigy.com...[color=green]
>> all you need is a jack, a jack stand "for safty", lug nut removal tool
>> "comes with jack tool kit for car", probly a 12mm and 14mm maybe a 17mm
>> depending on what needs to be removed on the car I cant remember on the
>> FWD models. however the caliper should have one mounting bolt the other
>> is a slide sleve, the pads will fall out...you will need to compress the
>> piston back into the caliper housing. DO NOT BLEED YOUR BREAKS UNLESS
>> YOU REALY KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOOING. Just compress them, its alot safer
>> that way. you can get new pads at any local automotive store pads
>> shouldent cost much rotars and drums will cost the most. Junk yards sell
>> used rotors and drums, I suggest taking off the rotors and drums and
>> having them resurfaced at a local machine shop its cost effective.
>>
>> --
>> Enorym[/color]
>
>[/color]