Budget Brake Job

Due to financial woe's I just slapped some pads on the front of my 93
Corolla. The old ones were worn to the metal. The rotors show some scaring
but not outragous. I took the car on a back road to set the pads by making
progressivly harder stops.

When I got to the point of actually locking up the brakes, I can put my foot
to the floor and the car stops quick but The tires will not lock up and
skid.

Am I correct in assuming I have to bleed the brakes? (fluid is full)
If so is there a correct sequence to bleeding them? Should I start with one
wheel and go in a certian order? or just bleed each wheel one by one?

Thanks for any tips you can offer on bleeding the brakes.


Steve

Steve wrote:[color=blue]
> Due to financial woe's I just slapped some pads on the front of my 93
> Corolla. The old ones were worn to the metal. The rotors show some[/color]
scaring[color=blue]
> but not outragous. I took the car on a back road to set the pads by[/color]
making[color=blue]
> progressivly harder stops.
>
> When I got to the point of actually locking up the brakes, I can put[/color]
my foot[color=blue]
> to the floor and the car stops quick but The tires will not lock up[/color]
and[color=blue]
> skid.[/color]

Definitely, you need to bleed the brakes. You can get a bleeder kit
from any auto parts store which will make the job less messy. I always
bleed the wheels one at a time. Just because your brake fluid is full
does not mean there's not air in the lines.
[color=blue]
>
> Am I correct in assuming I have to bleed the brakes? (fluid is full)
> If so is there a correct sequence to bleeding them? Should I start[/color]
with one[color=blue]
> wheel and go in a certian order? or just bleed each wheel one by one?[/color]

I don't know how else you'd do it. I'm not aware of any specific order
you should go in.


Richard
-------
[url]www.xdnc.com[/url]

Learning Richard <learningrichard@gmail.com> wrote:
[color=blue]
> Steve wrote:[color=green]
>> Due to financial woe's I just slapped some pads on the front of my 93
>> Corolla. The old ones were worn to the metal. The rotors show some[/color]
> scaring[color=green]
>> but not outragous. I took the car on a back road to set the pads by[/color]
> making[color=green]
>> progressivly harder stops.
>>
>> When I got to the point of actually locking up the brakes, I can put[/color]
> my foot[color=green]
>> to the floor and the car stops quick but The tires will not lock up[/color]
> and[color=green]
>> skid.[/color][/color]
[color=blue]
> Definitely, you need to bleed the brakes. You can get a bleeder kit
> from any auto parts store which will make the job less messy. I always
> bleed the wheels one at a time. Just because your brake fluid is full
> does not mean there's not air in the lines.[/color]
[color=blue][color=green]
>>
>> Am I correct in assuming I have to bleed the brakes? (fluid is full)
>> If so is there a correct sequence to bleeding them? Should I start[/color]
> with one[color=green]
>> wheel and go in a certian order? or just bleed each wheel one by one?[/color][/color]
[color=blue]
> I don't know how else you'd do it. I'm not aware of any specific order
> you should go in.[/color]


Left rear, right rear, left front, right front.

(Furthest to nearest from the resevoir)




--
gburnore@databasix dot com
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Steve, 4/6/2005, 11:05:01 AM, <uO-dneKQYKYdZM7fRVn-ig@giganews.com>
wrote:
[color=blue]
> If so is there a correct sequence to bleeding them? Should I start
> with one wheel and go in a certian order? or just bleed each wheel
> one by one?
>[/color]

I've been told in the past to start bleeding from the farthest wheel
from the master cylinder and work your way up to the closest. I do not
have any scientific proof that this is the best way to do it just in
case someone starts huffing and puffing about this...

--
No matter what happens, someone will find a way to take it too
seriously.

> I've been told in the past to start bleeding from the farthest wheel[color=blue]
> from the master cylinder and work your way up to the closest. I do not
> have any scientific proof that this is the best way to do it just in
> case someone starts huffing and puffing about this...[/color]


Sounds reasonable. Thats what I'll do!!!

Thanks

On Wed, 06 Apr 2005 08:18:35 -0700, Learning Richard wrote:
[color=blue]
>
> Steve wrote:[color=green]
>> Due to financial woe's I just slapped some pads on the front of my 93
>> Corolla. The old ones were worn to the metal. The rotors show some[/color]
> scaring[color=green]
>> but not outragous. I took the car on a back road to set the pads by[/color]
> making[color=green]
>> progressivly harder stops.
>>
>> When I got to the point of actually locking up the brakes, I can put[/color]
> my foot[color=green]
>> to the floor and the car stops quick but The tires will not lock up[/color]
> and[color=green]
>> skid.[/color]
>
> Definitely, you need to bleed the brakes. You can get a bleeder kit
> from any auto parts store which will make the job less messy. I always
> bleed the wheels one at a time. Just because your brake fluid is full
> does not mean there's not air in the lines.
>[color=green]
>>
>> Am I correct in assuming I have to bleed the brakes? (fluid is full)
>> If so is there a correct sequence to bleeding them? Should I start[/color]
> with one[color=green]
>> wheel and go in a certian order? or just bleed each wheel one by one?[/color]
>
> I don't know how else you'd do it. I'm not aware of any specific order
> you should go in.
>
>
> Richard
> -------
> [url]www.xdnc.com[/url][/color]


Make yer own! Two pieces of tubing, a (preferably plastic) jar with a
plastic lid, and a drill. Get tubing that fits the bleeder snugly. Drill 2
holes in the lid of the jar JUST smaller than the tubing (use a small
drill and hog it out if you have to) Place one piece of tubing so it JUST
toucehs the bottom of the jar, place the other up near the top of the lid
as a vent. (you may want a 1.5' piece (or more) for the bleeder and 6" or
so for the vent). Add enough brake fluid to the jar to cover the bottom of
the bellder tube. Place the long bleeder tube on the valve, the jar on the
ground. Open the bleeder valve and pump to your heart's content! You can
even flush the system this way with a large enough jar. It's going to cost
$8-11 for a kit, you can make this for about $1.50.

Good luck!!

On Wed, 6 Apr 2005 11:05:01 -0400, "Steve" <yeah@right.com> wrote:
[color=blue]
>Due to financial woe's I just slapped some pads on the front of my 93
>Corolla. The old ones were worn to the metal. The rotors show some scaring
>but not outragous. I took the car on a back road to set the pads by making
>progressivly harder stops.
>
>When I got to the point of actually locking up the brakes, I can put my foot
>to the floor and the car stops quick but The tires will not lock up and
>skid.[/color]

when you say "put my foot to the floor" do you mean it really goes to
the floor or that you are pressing as hard as you can. If the latter ...
it may be a while before the pads wear into the worn rotors.

[color=blue]
>
>Am I correct in assuming I have to bleed the brakes? (fluid is full)
>If so is there a correct sequence to bleeding them? Should I start with one
>wheel and go in a certian order? or just bleed each wheel one by one?
>[/color]

in any case, replacing the brake fluid is part of periodic maintenance

On Wed, 6 Apr 2005 11:05:01 -0400, "Steve" <yeah@right.com> wrote:
[color=blue]
>Due to financial woe's I just slapped some pads on the front of my 93
>Corolla. The old ones were worn to the metal. The rotors show some scaring
>but not outragous. I took the car on a back road to set the pads by making
>progressivly harder stops.
>[/color]


Steve - if your brake rotors are badly scored they really need
skimming by a workshop. Otherwise, they will cut through your new
pads, and you will not get 100% contact.

Perhaps that (as well as the bleeding requirement) is why you can't
get the wheels to lock up....

David