new stainless steel rotors for Camry, now takes longer to stop

Thanks for the advice from this group regarding tips on rotor replacement.
Pretty straight forward except for the two caliper torque plate bolts on the
right side that were a bitch to back out. 1/2" drive breaker bar, won't
budge. 4' cheater bar, still won't budge. Finally back out after a minute
each with an impact wrench. No problem backing out the bolts on the left
rotor, go figure.

Anyway, replaced the front factory warped rotors at less than 40K miles on
wife's V6 Camry with Raybestos PG Plus stainless rotors (actually its plated
stainless) along with Raybestos Quiet Stop pads. The pulsation is gone and
replaced with very smooth stops - nice. Wife said it now takes longer to
stop. Anyone experienced with stainless steel rotors and care to comment?

"Fred" <xyz@abc.qed> wrote in message
news:Tr2dnU6M0PJcyzvfRVn-2g@comcast.com...[color=blue]
> Thanks for the advice from this group regarding tips on rotor replacement.
> Pretty straight forward except for the two caliper torque plate bolts on
> the right side that were a bitch to back out. 1/2" drive breaker bar,
> won't budge. 4' cheater bar, still won't budge. Finally back out after a
> minute each with an impact wrench. No problem backing out the bolts on the
> left rotor, go figure.
>
> Anyway, replaced the front factory warped rotors at less than 40K miles on
> wife's V6 Camry with Raybestos PG Plus stainless rotors (actually its
> plated stainless) along with Raybestos Quiet Stop pads. The pulsation is
> gone and replaced with very smooth stops - nice. Wife said it now takes
> longer to stop. Anyone experienced with stainless steel rotors and care to
> comment?[/color]

Lots of motorcycle experience. There is less friction with SS compared to
cast iron. Bikes have SS rotors for street use and aftermarket manufacturers
make rustable replacements for racers and performance addicts.

Pat

"Fred" <xyz@abc.qed> wrote in message
news:Tr2dnU6M0PJcyzvfRVn-2g@comcast.com...[color=blue]
> Thanks for the advice from this group regarding tips on rotor replacement.
> Pretty straight forward except for the two caliper torque plate bolts on[/color]
the[color=blue]
> right side that were a bitch to back out. 1/2" drive breaker bar, won't
> budge. 4' cheater bar, still won't budge. Finally back out after a minute
> each with an impact wrench. No problem backing out the bolts on the left
> rotor, go figure.
>
> Anyway, replaced the front factory warped rotors at less than 40K miles on
> wife's V6 Camry with Raybestos PG Plus stainless rotors (actually its[/color]
plated[color=blue]
> stainless) along with Raybestos Quiet Stop pads. The pulsation is gone and
> replaced with very smooth stops - nice. Wife said it now takes longer to
> stop. Anyone experienced with stainless steel rotors and care to comment?[/color]

It's all in the pads. You bought a 'quite' pad which is probably a softer
pad, meaning it will wear fast, your rotor wont and stopping time may be
slower. A harder pad wont wear as fast but will eat up the rotor quicker,
and get you harder breaking. The other thing to note is that there is an
oilish film on new rotors which may take a bit to wear off. It's a good idea
to spray new Rotors down with a brake cleaner.

A Carbon Kevlar pad is harder but more rotor friendly than other pads.
Porterfield's or Axxis Metal Masters are good choices in pads. Upgrading
your brake lines to SS brake lines will also help performance.

Josh wrote:[color=blue]
> It's all in the pads. You bought a 'quite' pad which is probably a softer
> pad, meaning it will wear fast, your rotor wont and stopping time may be
> slower. A harder pad wont wear as fast but will eat up the rotor quicker,
> and get you harder breaking. The other thing to note is that there is an
> oilish film on new rotors which may take a bit to wear off. It's a good idea
> to spray new Rotors down with a brake cleaner.
>
> A Carbon Kevlar pad is harder but more rotor friendly than other pads.
> Porterfield's or Axxis Metal Masters are good choices in pads. Upgrading
> your brake lines to SS brake lines will also help performance.[/color]

?? I must say that in my experience with bike discs the softer the pad
the better the braking, and by far, but the faster the pad wear. Also
harder pads squeel more. This held true with my last car (a peugeot).

J

That is because stainless steel does not dissipate heat nearly as
quickly as does iron. You need different pads to compensate


mike hunt



Fred wrote:[color=blue]
>
> Wife said it now takes longer to
> stop. Anyone experienced with stainless steel rotors and care to comment?[/color]

"Coyoteboy" <coyoteboyuk@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1118227129.099570.22830@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...[color=blue]
>
>
> Josh wrote:[color=green]
> > It's all in the pads. You bought a 'quite' pad which is probably a[/color][/color]
softer[color=blue][color=green]
> > pad, meaning it will wear fast, your rotor wont and stopping time may be
> > slower. A harder pad wont wear as fast but will eat up the rotor[/color][/color]
quicker,[color=blue][color=green]
> > and get you harder breaking. The other thing to note is that there is an
> > oilish film on new rotors which may take a bit to wear off. It's a good[/color][/color]
idea[color=blue][color=green]
> > to spray new Rotors down with a brake cleaner.
> >
> > A Carbon Kevlar pad is harder but more rotor friendly than other pads.
> > Porterfield's or Axxis Metal Masters are good choices in pads. Upgrading
> > your brake lines to SS brake lines will also help performance.[/color]
>
> ?? I must say that in my experience with bike discs the softer the pad
> the better the braking, and by far, but the faster the pad wear. Also
> harder pads squeel more. This held true with my last car (a peugeot).[/color]

What was the pad material?

<IleneDover@mailcity.com> wrote in message
news:42A6FC45.B53AFEBF@mailcity.com...[color=blue]
> That is because stainless steel does not dissipate heat nearly as
> quickly as does iron. You need different pads to compensate
>
>
> mike hunt
>
>[/color]

I couldn't find any reference to pad/stainless rotor combinations. Do you
know which pads to use?



[color=blue]
>
> Fred wrote:[color=green]
>>
>> Wife said it now takes longer to
>> stop. Anyone experienced with stainless steel rotors and care to comment?[/color][/color]

"Fred" <xyz@abc.qed> wrote in message
news:Q4-dnUk4E6zWuzrfRVn-rQ@comcast.com...[color=blue]
>
> <IleneDover@mailcity.com> wrote in message
> news:42A6FC45.B53AFEBF@mailcity.com...[color=green]
> > That is because stainless steel does not dissipate heat nearly as
> > quickly as does iron. You need different pads to compensate
> >
> >
> > mike hunt
> >
> >[/color]
>
> I couldn't find any reference to pad/stainless rotor combinations. Do you
> know which pads to use?[/color]

A carbon/kevlar/ceramic pad.

"Josh" <nobody@noplacenowhere.never> wrote in message
news:QzmdnYYYH-9TtDrfUSdV9g@ptd.net...[color=blue]
>
> "Fred" <xyz@abc.qed> wrote in message
> news:Q4-dnUk4E6zWuzrfRVn-rQ@comcast.com...[color=green]
>>
>> <IleneDover@mailcity.com> wrote in message
>> news:42A6FC45.B53AFEBF@mailcity.com...[color=darkred]
>> > That is because stainless steel does not dissipate heat nearly as
>> > quickly as does iron. You need different pads to compensate
>> >
>> >
>> > mike hunt
>> >
>> >[/color]
>>
>> I couldn't find any reference to pad/stainless rotor combinations. Do you
>> know which pads to use?[/color]
>
> A carbon/kevlar/ceramic pad.
>
>[/color]

Raybestos Quiet Stop pads used on the stainless rotor is ceramic. Don't know
anything about carbon or kevlar.

If it were me looking I would search the wed site of the rotor
manufactures for the correct pad application.


mike hunt



Fred wrote:[color=blue]
>
> <IleneDover@mailcity.com> wrote in message
> news:42A6FC45.B53AFEBF@mailcity.com...[color=green]
> > That is because stainless steel does not dissipate heat nearly as
> > quickly as does iron. You need different pads to compensate
> >
> >
> > mike hunt
> >
> >[/color]
>
> I couldn't find any reference to pad/stainless rotor combinations. Do you
> know which pads to use?
>[color=green]
> >
> > Fred wrote:[color=darkred]
> >>
> >> Wife said it now takes longer to
> >> stop. Anyone experienced with stainless steel rotors and care to comment?[/color][/color][/color]

<MajorDomo@mailcity.com> wrote in message
news:42A761D5.E3C795F6@mailcity.com...[color=blue]
> If it were me looking I would search the wed site of the rotor
> manufactures for the correct pad application.
>
>
> mike hunt
>
>
>[/color]
If it were me, I'd use OEM pads and rotors and be done with it.
--
Ray O
correct the return address punctuation to reply

On Wed, 08 Jun 2005 16:44:12 -0500, Ray O wrote:
[color=blue]
>
> <MajorDomo@mailcity.com> wrote in message
> news:42A761D5.E3C795F6@mailcity.com...[color=green]
>> If it were me looking I would search the wed site of the rotor
>> manufactures for the correct pad application.
>>
>>
>> mike hunt
>>
>>
>>[/color]
> If it were me, I'd use OEM pads and rotors and be done with it.[/color]

Probably much cheaper?

--
The Relentless Pursuit Of Conception...

On Wed, 08 Jun 2005 13:27:58 -0400, Josh wrote:
[color=blue]
>
> "Fred" <xyz@abc.qed> wrote in message
> news:Q4-dnUk4E6zWuzrfRVn-rQ@comcast.com...[color=green]
>>
>> <IleneDover@mailcity.com> wrote in message
>> news:42A6FC45.B53AFEBF@mailcity.com...[color=darkred]
>> > That is because stainless steel does not dissipate heat nearly as
>> > quickly as does iron. You need different pads to compensate
>> >
>> >
>> > mike hunt
>> >
>> >[/color]
>>
>> I couldn't find any reference to pad/stainless rotor combinations. Do you
>> know which pads to use?[/color]
>
> A carbon/kevlar/ceramic pad.[/color]

Sounds expensive to me. Are we running at Monte Carlo this weekend?

--
The Relentless Pursuit Of Conception...

"hachiroku" <Trueno@ae86.gts> wrote in message
news:_4Lpe.2571$2H2.1329@trndny08...[color=blue]
> On Wed, 08 Jun 2005 16:44:12 -0500, Ray O wrote:
>[color=green]
>>
>> <MajorDomo@mailcity.com> wrote in message
>> news:42A761D5.E3C795F6@mailcity.com...[color=darkred]
>>> If it were me looking I would search the wed site of the rotor
>>> manufactures for the correct pad application.
>>>
>>>
>>> mike hunt
>>>
>>>
>>>[/color]
>> If it were me, I'd use OEM pads and rotors and be done with it.[/color]
>
> Probably much cheaper?
>
> --
> The Relentless Pursuit Of Conception...
>[/color]
Aftermarket might be cheaper initially, but by the time you're done with the
ceramic/kevlar wunderstuff that everyone is recommending so that the OP's
Camry will stop, you would have spent a lot more money. Aftermarket pads
can be a PITA (as opposed to PETA) to install and in my experience, parts
stores give you the wrong part half the time, where a dealer parts
department gets it right most of the time.

A friend always uses aftermarket pads and rotors, and whenever I change pads
on his Camry it takes me 45 minutes to an hour or more where I can do them
on the Avalon in less than half an hour with OEM parts. It might be my
snobby pro-OEM parts attitude but I like OEM brake parts.
--
Ray O
correct the return address punctuation to reply

> What was the pad material?

On the bikes - various,i couldnt be precise but visually similar pad
material with varying surface hardnesses-notably a few different grades
of EBC pads.

I also assume its similar on bike rim-brakes - magura HS33 hydraulic
rim brakes i had ran two types of pad material for normal use - red and
black. Reds weres soft, stopped faster and wore out at about twice the
rate.

I'm presuming there is FAR more to it than just pad hardness, as two
similarly hard materials can have totally different friction
co-efficients.

J