92 toyota corolla brake problem

very weak pedal goes to the floor tried bleeding the system changed
master cylinder proportion valve still the same any help would be
great thanks :cry: can it be a vacuum problem i’m stuck trying to
figure this one out

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"glenn35" <UseLinkToEmail@AutoForumz.com> wrote in message
news:1_614776_c3a7a137592db13cd00d8badb8320abb@autoforumz.com...[color=blue]
> very weak pedal goes to the floor tried bleeding the system changed
> master cylinder proportion valve still the same any help would be
> great thanks :cry: can it be a vacuum problem i'm stuck trying to
> figure this one out
>[/color]

What do you mean by a "weak pedal?"

If the pedal goes to the floor or sinks to the floor, you have bad master
cylinder or brake fluid leak. The fluid leak can be from the wheel
cylinders, calipers, brake lines, or elsewhere in the system.

If the pedal is hard to press,then the booster is bad, you have a vacuum
leak to the booster, or the brake rod is not adjusted correctly.
--
Ray O
correct the return address punctuation to reply

On Sat, 25 Jun 2005 22:48:11 -0500, Ray O wrote:
[color=blue]
>
> "glenn35" <UseLinkToEmail@AutoForumz.com> wrote in message
> news:1_614776_c3a7a137592db13cd00d8badb8320abb@autoforumz.com...[color=green]
>> very weak pedal goes to the floor tried bleeding the system changed
>> master cylinder proportion valve still the same any help would be
>> great thanks :cry: can it be a vacuum problem i'm stuck trying to
>> figure this one out
>>[/color]
>
> What do you mean by a "weak pedal?"
>
> If the pedal goes to the floor or sinks to the floor, you have bad master
> cylinder or brake fluid leak. The fluid leak can be from the wheel
> cylinders, calipers, brake lines, or elsewhere in the system.
>
> If the pedal is hard to press,then the booster is bad, you have a vacuum
> leak to the booster, or the brake rod is not adjusted correctly.[/color]


Tut, tut, Raymundo! My 'hachiroku's' brakes were REAL stiff. I mean it
took some muscle to stop the car. Having NEVER flushed the brake system
(in 17 years!!!) I decided the fluid looked pretty bad. So, I did a
complete flush on all 4 wheels et voila! Brakes returned to normal!

If the OP's brake fluid is black (like mine was) try flushing the system
first. You'll save a LOT of money.


Once again, my recipe for a brake fluid flushing system that will allow
one person to bleed/flush brakes without assistance:

Get a plastic jar with a lid, screw on type. A quart or so is
manageable; any larger means you can pump more fluid but can be unruly.

Get about 4 feet of clear plastic tubing. Cut it 1ft/3ft long. The size of
the tubing (Inside Diameter) should fit SNUGLY on the bleeder screws
on your calipers. Punch holes in the lid of the jar (drill them) so the
tubin can be inserted SNUGLY! Push the shorter length just inside the jar,
about 1" or so. Push the other length so that it is about 1/4" from the
bottom of the jar. Fill the jar with fresh brake fluid about 1" above the
bottom of the tubing. Attach the longer tube to the first bleeder screw
(for flushing this should be the caliper furthest from the brake booster,
in the US that would be passenger side rear. Start pumping the brakes,
adding fluid to keep the system from running dry. When the fluid runs
clear, move to the driver's side rear and repeat. Do all four wheels,
keeping the brake fluid resevior from running empty. When you're finished,
you have nice clean fluid in the entire system!

This contraption can also be used for bleeding the brakes after brake work.

Good luck!

"Ray O" wrote:[color=blue]
> "glenn35" <UseLinkToEmail@AutoForumz.com> wrote in message
> news:1_614776_c3a7a137592db13cd00d8badb8320abb@autoforumz.com...[color=green]
> > very weak pedal goes to the floor tried bleeding the[/color]
> system changed[color=green]
> > master cylinder proportion valve still the same any help[/color]
> would be[color=green]
> > great thanks :cry: can it be a vacuum problem i'm stuck[/color]
> trying to[color=green]
> > figure this one out
> >[/color]
>
> What do you mean by a "weak pedal?"
>
> If the pedal goes to the floor or sinks to the floor, you
> have bad master
> cylinder or brake fluid leak. The fluid leak can be from the
> wheel
> cylinders, calipers, brake lines, or elsewhere in the system.
>
> If the pedal is hard to press,then the booster is bad, you
> have a vacuum
> leak to the booster, or the brake rod is not adjusted
> correctly.
> --
> Ray O
> correct the return address punctuation to reply[/color]

no leaks changed the lines tried a used master cylinder well two of
them also did bleed the system through the pedal goes to the floor
after the first stop you hold the pedal firm and it does not hold the
pressure the car stops fine but the pedal will reach the floor

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glenn35 <UseLinkToEmail@AutoForumz.com> wrote in
news:1_615319_36d9ca4996884693e3df1a4b1641d0bb@autoforumz.com:

[color=blue]
>
> no leaks changed the lines tried a used master cylinder well two of
> them also did bleed the system through the pedal goes to the floor
> after the first stop you hold the pedal firm and it does not hold the
> pressure the car stops fine but the pedal will reach the floor
>[/color]


1) Fluid leak due to corrosion or seal leakage.
2) Master cylinder is bad (yes, I know you tried two "used ones".)


If #1, the reservoir level will decline, and you'll see drips on your
driveway. Also the pedal will go to the floor whether or not you stamp on
the pedal hard, or press it slowly.

If #2, the reservoir level will NOT change. There will be no drips. The
pedal will go to the floor with steady, gentle braking, but not when you
stamp on it hard and hold it.

Additionally...

I see you're in NY somewhere. The probability of corrosion is high. The
lines are coated with rubber except where they are clamped to the body, and
corrosion usually starts there. Watch under the car while you have a helper
press hard on the pedal. If there is a drip or pee-stream, you've got a
holed line.

If it's a wheel cylinder leaking, the leak will be internal to the drum
until it gets so bad it starts dripping out. At that point it will begin
spraying onto the inside face of the tire, making a streaky, tie-dyed type
of stain. Remove both drums and check inside.

Good luck.

--
TeGGeR®

"TeGGeR®" wrote:[color=blue]
> glenn35 <UseLinkToEmail@AutoForumz.com> wrote in
> news:1_615319_36d9ca4996884693e3df1a4b1641d0bb@autoforumz.com:
>
>[color=green]
> >
> > no leaks changed the lines tried a used master cylinder[/color]
> well two of[color=green]
> > them also did bleed the system through the pedal goes to[/color]
> the floor[color=green]
> > after the first stop you hold the pedal firm and it does[/color]
> not hold the[color=green]
> > pressure the car stops fine but the pedal will reach the[/color]
> floor[color=green]
> >[/color]
>
>
> 1) Fluid leak due to corrosion or seal leakage.
> 2) Master cylinder is bad (yes, I know you tried two "used
> ones".)
>
>
> If #1, the reservoir level will decline, and you'll see drips
> on your
> driveway. Also the pedal will go to the floor whether or not
> you stamp on
> the pedal hard, or press it slowly.
>
> If #2, the reservoir level will NOT change. There will be no
> drips. The
> pedal will go to the floor with steady, gentle braking, but
> not when you
> stamp on it hard and hold it.
>
> Additionally...
>
> I see you're in NY somewhere. The probability of corrosion is
> high. The
> lines are coated with rubber except where they are clamped to
> the body, and
> corrosion usually starts there. Watch under the car while you
> have a helper
> press hard on the pedal. If there is a drip or pee-stream,
> you've got a
> holed line.
>
> If it's a wheel cylinder leaking, the leak will be internal to
> the drum
> until it gets so bad it starts dripping out. At that point it
> will begin
> spraying onto the inside face of the tire, making a streaky,
> tie-dyed type
> of stain. Remove both drums and check inside.
>
> Good luck.
>
> --
> TeGGeR®[/color]

tried a rebuilt one same problem no fluid leaks for sure anything else
i should look for in canada so worse for salt i would guess

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