"hachiroku" <ae86@Trueno.GTS> wrote in message
news:pan.2005.07.04.02.54.51.570238@Trueno.GTS...[color=blue]
> On Sat, 02 Jul 2005 23:43:25 -0500, Ray O wrote:
>[color=green]
>>
>> "hachiroku" <ae86@Trueno.GTS> wrote in message
>> news:pan.2005.07.03.03.04.38.136514@Trueno.GTS...[color=darkred]
>>> On Sat, 02 Jul 2005 14:32:26 -0500, Ray O wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>> "sligo" <sligo@cox.net> wrote in message
>>>> news:BlAxe.15656$ro.12602@fed1read02...
>>>>> The right rear window will not operate from the driver's side switch
>>>>> assembly or the up down switch on the right rear door. Other windows
>>>>> all operate.
>>>>> Before I rip the door panel off, is there a fuse for this window
>>>>> operation?
>>>>> If so location please.
>>>>> Thank you,
>>>>> Seamus J. Wilson
>>>>>
>>>> It is not the fuse or relay if the other windows operate properly.
>>>>
>>>> When only 1 window does not work, it is either the master switch, the
>>>> switch on the door, the motor, or the harness. The only other
>>>> possibility
>>>> is the regulator is binding. Those are the only causes.
>>>>
>>>> You will need a factory service manual or wiring diagram to diagnose
>>>> the switches and harness.
>>>> The switch at the inoperable door will have 5 terminals. Continuity
>>>> between the terminals will vary as you move the switch in the up, down,
>>>> and off positions. The master switch will have a bunch of terminals
>>>> and diagnosing is basically the same way.
>>>>
>>>> If either of the switches gets exposed to moisture often, like driving
>>>> in the rain with the window open or spilled drinks, the internal
>>>> contacts can
>>>> get corroded.
>>>>
>>>> The motor will have a power connector with 2 terminals. Apply 12 volts
>>>> power and ground to the terminals and the motor should operate.
>>>> Reverse the connections and the motor should operate in the opposite
>>>> direction.
>>>>
>>>> To see if the regulator itself is binding, you will have to remove the
>>>> motor and see if the regulator moves.
>>>
>>> On both my Celica and my Supra, corroded contacts were the culprit.[/color]
>>
>> It seems to happen to smokers more often because they drive with the
>> window cracked open and strays drops of water blow in.[/color]
>
> Two for two there, Ray! Although I have only owned the car for three
> years, and I don't think any of the other owners were smokers.
>
> However, when you rip the AC out, I guess you gotta open the window, even
> when it's raining!
>[/color]
Those lexan vent shades that attach to the forward edge of the door frame
seem like a good idea.
[color=blue][color=green]
>>[color=darkred]
>>> I pulled the switches from the door panel, sanded them down using an
>>> emery board and a small fingernail file, and then put a LIGHT cotaing of
>>> solder on them (CAREFUL!!! Don't let the solder run ANYWHERE! I found
>>> out the hard way that, for some reason, there is a LOT of current
>>> running through this switch! Enough to 'weld' the screwdriver I was
>>> using for testing to the contacts!)[/color]
>>
>> LOL! Reminds me of Woody on Cheers talking about finding out the hard way
>> that "flammable" and inflammable" are the same thing.
>>
>> Lots of current runs through the window switch because the current
>> doesn't
>> pass through a relay.[/color]
>
> Yeah, I wonder why. I also noticed something else weird about the system,
> but I can't remember what it was. Something to do with the switch logic,
> and the way it reverses the current.
>[/color]
It is probably easier to use heavier wires that are direct-wired than using
relays. If either the master or one of the door switches is bad, then the
window will not work, almost as if they are wired in series.
--
Ray O
correct the return address punctuation to reply
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