OIL LEAK 89 CRESSIDA

I HAVE A 1989 CRESSIDA AND I HAVE OIL LEAKING INTO THE SPARK PLUG VALLEY
AND I CHANGE THE VALVE COVER GASKET AND PUT A NEW O-RING ( NOT DEALER) IN
THE DISTRIBUTER, BUT IT STILL LEAKS WHAT YOU THINK IS THE PROBLEM PLEASE
HELP ME OUT.

"BEENIEMAN" <jahnovia@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:8bfa5d6a460f49244c2975a5a8752039@localhost.talkaboutautos.com...[color=blue]
>I HAVE A 1989 CRESSIDA AND I HAVE OIL LEAKING INTO THE SPARK PLUG VALLEY
> AND I CHANGE THE VALVE COVER GASKET AND PUT A NEW O-RING ( NOT DEALER) IN
> THE DISTRIBUTER, BUT IT STILL LEAKS WHAT YOU THINK IS THE PROBLEM PLEASE
> HELP ME OUT.
>[/color]

1. CAPS IS SHOUTING. So unless you're using a TTY Model 28 or earlier,
please turn the caps lock off.

2. Did you change the rubber rings at the bottom of the sparkplug wells
when you changed the valve cover gasket?

3. Did you follow the proper tightening sequence and pound/feet of torque?
I do not have the sequence for the Cressida, but I know the Corollas are
picky about it and I presume most of the other Toyotas are similar in
design.

Charles of Kankakee

On Wed, 10 Aug 2005 20:41:39 -0400, BEENIEMAN wrote:
[color=blue]
> I HAVE A 1989 CRESSIDA AND I HAVE OIL LEAKING INTO THE SPARK PLUG VALLEY
> AND I CHANGE THE VALVE COVER GASKET AND PUT A NEW O-RING ( NOT DEALER) IN
> THE DISTRIBUTER, BUT IT STILL LEAKS WHAT YOU THINK IS THE PROBLEM PLEASE
> HELP ME OUT.[/color]

Look here:

[url]http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM/in/IN_01.html[/url]

This is the TSRM for a '91 Supra, basically the same car under the sheet
metal...

"HachiRoku" <Trueno@ae86.GTS> wrote in message
news:fUxKe.5281$rY.4484@trndny03...[color=blue]
> On Wed, 10 Aug 2005 20:41:39 -0400, BEENIEMAN wrote:
>[color=green]
>> I HAVE A 1989 CRESSIDA AND I HAVE OIL LEAKING INTO THE SPARK PLUG VALLEY
>> AND I CHANGE THE VALVE COVER GASKET AND PUT A NEW O-RING ( NOT DEALER)
>> IN
>> THE DISTRIBUTER, BUT IT STILL LEAKS WHAT YOU THINK IS THE PROBLEM PLEASE
>> HELP ME OUT.[/color]
>
> Look here:
>
> [url]http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM/in/IN_01.html[/url]
>
> This is the TSRM for a '91 Supra, basically the same car under the sheet
> metal...
>[/color]
If this is the engine with the cams in a tower (spacer box) above the head
and under the valve cover gaskets, then the cam tower gasket is the likely
culprit.
--
Ray O
correct the return address punctuation to reply

On Wed, 10 Aug 2005 21:55:26 -0500, Ray O wrote:
[color=blue]
>
> "HachiRoku" <Trueno@ae86.GTS> wrote in message
> news:fUxKe.5281$rY.4484@trndny03...[color=green]
>> On Wed, 10 Aug 2005 20:41:39 -0400, BEENIEMAN wrote:
>>[color=darkred]
>>> I HAVE A 1989 CRESSIDA AND I HAVE OIL LEAKING INTO THE SPARK PLUG VALLEY
>>> AND I CHANGE THE VALVE COVER GASKET AND PUT A NEW O-RING ( NOT DEALER)
>>> IN
>>> THE DISTRIBUTER, BUT IT STILL LEAKS WHAT YOU THINK IS THE PROBLEM PLEASE
>>> HELP ME OUT.[/color]
>>
>> Look here:
>>
>> [url]http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM/in/IN_01.html[/url]
>>
>> This is the TSRM for a '91 Supra, basically the same car under the sheet
>> metal...
>>[/color]
> If this is the engine with the cams in a tower (spacer box) above the head
> and under the valve cover gaskets, then the cam tower gasket is the likely
> culprit.[/color]


Same as the Supra, and similar to the 1.6L used in the Corolla GTS, with 2
more cylinders. Yamaha engine...

BEENIEMAN wrote:[color=blue]
>
> I HAVE A 1989 CRESSIDA AND I HAVE OIL LEAKING INTO THE SPARK PLUG VALLEY
> AND I CHANGE THE VALVE COVER GASKET AND PUT A NEW O-RING ( NOT DEALER) IN
> THE DISTRIBUTER, BUT IT STILL LEAKS WHAT YOU THINK IS THE PROBLEM PLEASE
> HELP ME OUT.[/color]

--

I doubt the valve covers (with oem parts) will ever leak if you used locktight on the bolts.

but..
There are 3 big plugs for the cylinder head cover and oil gallery that are in line with the spark plugs. They look like
a big allen bolt/plug. One of them is probably loose and just needs to be tightened up. Especially if your model has a
heater hose support bracket on the rear one. Torque 13 foot pounds.

If you don't have the tool then a bolt with the correct size head and a couple nuts will make a handy adapter so you can
use a wrench.


Hope that helps
Dan

--end

hey danny I had put some siclicone on the back bolt and the front one and
they are still leaking, even more at highway speeds, what else you think
it might be.

hey "H" THE eng. that I have is the 7mge and the cams are under the valve
cover so you think that this might lead to the oil getting into the spark
plug valley?

Hey do you think that the cross-drilled rotors they make for the supra will
fit the cressida?

On Sat, 13 Aug 2005 17:37:09 -0400, BEENIEMAN wrote:
[color=blue]
> Hey do you think that the cross-drilled rotors they make for the supra will
> fit the cressida?[/color]

I'm not sure how much of the stuff crosses over from one to the other.
Quite a bit, I bet.

The thing to do would be, if you have a friend in a parts store, is to go
in, ask him to look up the part number for the rotors for your Cressida,
and then see if it crosses to the Supra...

On Sat, 13 Aug 2005 17:34:58 -0400, BEENIEMAN wrote:
[color=blue]
> hey "H" THE eng. that I have is the 7mge and the cams are under the valve
> cover so you think that this might lead to the oil getting into the spark
> plug valley?[/color]

On this engine, it SHOULDN'T, but...one never knows (I am not an expert
and have only had my Supra running this summer...)

This design engine is the same I have in my Corolla; it is a Yamaha engine
with 2 more cylinders than my 4A-GE...

What would appear to me is that perhaps the valve cover gasket is wearing
out and letting oil get to where it shouldn't. Think of how the valve
cover covers the top of the engine and you'll see what I mean. The only
problem I can think of in checking this is, if the car is set up like my
Supra, the intake crosses over the valve cover and has to be removed
before the VC. On my Corolla, this is not the case, and the VC can be
removed quite easily. It will definitely be more than a short afternoon
project...

There are also seals at the spark plugs in this design, IIRC, and
inspecting these still requires removing the VC.

Head out and get yourself a gasket...

BEENIEMAN wrote:[color=blue]
>
> hey danny I had put some siclicone on the back bolt and the front one and
> they are still leaking, even more at highway speeds, what else you think
> it might be.[/color]

Might want to check your PCV to see if its plugged up at the throttle body. The 7MGE is a closed system and there is no
pvc valve so any break in the seal like a valve cover or the dip stick is normally a vacuum leak. Also makes the engine
run out of tune.


Couple of other thoughts.

Don't even think of messing around with the EGR cooler.

Check closely for vacuum leaks. PCV pipes to the valve covers especially.

Allot of oil (small lake) gets trapped under the center head cover and submerges the plugs. Clean that out before
removing the plugs. Might be a quart even.

Remove the rubber intake air pipe and look in the throttle body. If there is a build up of muck that would effect the
airflow when you open the throttle then its past due for normal maintenance. Remove it to clean it.

Remove/clean the throttle body, double checking the 3 plugs, clean the spark plug area is part of normal maintenance.

IF YOU TAKE OFF THE VALE COVERS RE-TORQUE THE HEAD. Luckily its easy to do. A web search for +7mge +head will explain
why.


Hopefully helpful
Dan

--end

On Sun, 14 Aug 2005 01:01:34 +0000, Danny Greaves wrote:
[color=blue]
>
>
> BEENIEMAN wrote:[color=green]
>>
>> hey danny I had put some siclicone on the back bolt and the front one and
>> they are still leaking, even more at highway speeds, what else you think
>> it might be.[/color]
>
> Might want to check your PCV to see if its plugged up at the throttle body. The 7MGE is a closed system and there is no
> pvc valve so any break in the seal like a valve cover or the dip stick is normally a vacuum leak. Also makes the engine
> run out of tune.
>
>
> Couple of other thoughts.
>
> Don't even think of messing around with the EGR cooler.
>
> Check closely for vacuum leaks. PCV pipes to the valve covers especially.
>
> Allot of oil (small lake) gets trapped under the center head cover and submerges the plugs. Clean that out before
> removing the plugs. Might be a quart even.
>
> Remove the rubber intake air pipe and look in the throttle body. If there is a build up of muck that would effect the
> airflow when you open the throttle then its past due for normal maintenance. Remove it to clean it.
>
> Remove/clean the throttle body, double checking the 3 plugs, clean the spark plug area is part of normal maintenance.
>
> IF YOU TAKE OFF THE VALE COVERS RE-TORQUE THE HEAD. Luckily its easy to do. A web search for +7mge +head will explain
> why.[/color]

Sort of easy. You have to use a swivel to get in there,but yeah, it is not
real difficult!

These engines are known for losing Head Gaskets, so a tightening
definitely won't hurt... (make that TORQUING!)

[color=blue]
>
>
> Hopefully helpful
> Dan
>
> --end[/color]

HachiRoku wrote:[color=blue]
>
> On Sun, 14 Aug 2005 01:01:34 +0000, Danny Greaves wrote:
>[color=green]
> >
> >
> > BEENIEMAN wrote:[color=darkred]
> >>
> >> hey danny I had put some siclicone on the back bolt and the front one and
> >> they are still leaking, even more at highway speeds, what else you think
> >> it might be.[/color]
> >
> > Might want to check your PCV to see if its plugged up at the throttle body. The 7MGE is a closed system and there is no
> > pvc valve so any break in the seal like a valve cover or the dip stick is normally a vacuum leak. Also makes the engine
> > run out of tune.
> >
> >
> > Couple of other thoughts.
> >
> > Don't even think of messing around with the EGR cooler.
> >
> > Check closely for vacuum leaks. PCV pipes to the valve covers especially.
> >
> > Allot of oil (small lake) gets trapped under the center head cover and submerges the plugs. Clean that out before
> > removing the plugs. Might be a quart even.
> >
> > Remove the rubber intake air pipe and look in the throttle body. If there is a build up of muck that would effect the
> > airflow when you open the throttle then its past due for normal maintenance. Remove it to clean it.
> >
> > Remove/clean the throttle body, double checking the 3 plugs, clean the spark plug area is part of normal maintenance.
> >
> > IF YOU TAKE OFF THE VALE COVERS RE-TORQUE THE HEAD. Luckily its easy to do. A web search for +7mge +head will explain
> > why.[/color]
>
> Sort of easy. You have to use a swivel to get in there,but yeah, it is not
> real difficult!
>
> These engines are known for losing Head Gaskets, so a tightening
> definitely won't hurt... (make that TORQUING!)
>[/color]

The problem is that 58 ft.-lb. was never tight enough. It should have been 68 ft.-lb. IMO.