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Old 01-01-2006, 06:32 PM   #1 (permalink)
dale_t63
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Re: 22RE Intake Manifold Removal

What is the Best Way to remove bolt, having a little trouble getting it
loose.
thanks in advance


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Old 01-01-2006, 08:48 PM   #2 (permalink)
William J. Brown
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Re: 22RE Intake Manifold Removal

On Sun, 01 Jan 2006 18:32:07 -0500, "dale_t63" <dalet63@sbcglobal.net>
wrote:
[color=blue]
>What is the Best Way to remove bolt, having a little trouble getting it
>loose.
>thanks in advance
>[/color]
Hey!
Soak it with WD-40 or something similar. Soak it over night.
Even better, start soaking it while the motor is still warm -
but keep drenching it as much as you can hourly.
Bill

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Old 01-01-2006, 10:22 PM   #3 (permalink)
Bruce L. Bergman
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Re: 22RE Intake Manifold Removal

On Sun, 01 Jan 2006 18:32:07 -0500, "dale_t63" <dalet63@sbcglobal.net>
wrote:
[color=blue]
>What is the Best Way to remove bolt, having a little trouble getting it
>loose.
>thanks in advance[/color]

You need a real penetrating oil - and WD-40 is NOT one. Repeat
after me, "The WD in WD-40 stands for Water Displacement"

It's the best stuff to have on hand for quickly drying out the
ignition system after you drive through rain puddles. But the main
ingredients are Kerosene and Stoddard Solvent, meaning it is NOT a
long-term lubricant, and is at best only a marginal penetrating oil.

Kroil or PB Blaster are two much more effective petroleum based
penetrants. And if you ever need to work on HVAC or food processing
equipment, MARS "Rust Buster" is NSF approved for incidental food
contact - and it doesn't stink nearly as bad when you get it hot.

Get the penetrant down to the base threads you're trying to get
open, and soak it several times a day over the course of a few days.

If the bolt isn't moving more than a partial turn without applying
extreme pressure, STOP FORCING IT! - soak it again, come back
tomorrow, try again. Otherwise you start snapping bolts off, which
suddenly makes a simple job into a whole lot more complex procedure.

If you can stand the smell of hot solvents and it is still drivable,
driving the car is OK in between treatments. It can actually help, as
the gap between stud and block (or bolt and nut) will expand and
contract with engine heat. When you arrive you let the engine cool
down for 10 minutes and blast it again. It will soak in.

--<< Bruce >>--

--
Bruce L. Bergman, Woodland Hills (Los Angeles) CA - Desktop
Electrician for Westend Electric - CA726700
5737 Kanan Rd. #359, Agoura CA 91301 (818) 889-9545
Spamtrapped address: Remove the python and the invalid, and use a net.
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