Broken timing belt on my 90 4runner

I had a broken timing belt while driving on a freeway. I had the timing belt
replaced and the timing marks set correctly, the engine cranks and try to
start but wasn't able to get it running. The engine also shakes and I also
heard popping sound while cranking. Any experts out there knows if the
valves may have been bented? Are 1990 V6 3.0L 4runner engines interference
engines that can easily bent the valves in this case? If so, any idea what
it would cost to repair it?

Thanks,
-don

I am not sure, but sounds like the marks may be aligned, but a full rotation
off. In other words, the engine is trying to fire while the valves are
open. The valves in this engine are not usually damaged when the belt
breaks. Did toyota put the belt in - - or a shade tree guy?
Hope this helps,
Clyde

"Coolguy" <u17209@uwe> wrote in message news:59c694a30a79a@uwe...[color=blue]
> I had a broken timing belt while driving on a freeway. I had the timing[/color]
belt[color=blue]
> replaced and the timing marks set correctly, the engine cranks and try to
> start but wasn't able to get it running. The engine also shakes and I[/color]
also[color=blue]
> heard popping sound while cranking. Any experts out there knows if the
> valves may have been bented? Are 1990 V6 3.0L 4runner engines[/color]
interference[color=blue]
> engines that can easily bent the valves in this case? If so, any idea[/color]
what[color=blue]
> it would cost to repair it?
>
> Thanks,
> -don[/color]

Thanks Clyde, I'm the shade tree guy :-(. I'm not quite sure what you meant
by a full rotation off. The two cam on top is a bigger gear, and the crank
is a smaller gear on bottom. The bottom gear has to rotate a few times
before the top cam gear can line up. I checked the chilton repair manual and
it didn't say anything about the possibility of a full rotation off. Can you
explain what you mean?

I hope you're right about the valves not damaged, because it will be a
nightmare for me. Are you a mechanic expert? How do you check if the values
are ok?

Thanks in advance.
-don

Clyde Hathaway wrote:[color=blue]
>I am not sure, but sounds like the marks may be aligned, but a full rotation
>off. In other words, the engine is trying to fire while the valves are
>open. The valves in this engine are not usually damaged when the belt
>breaks. Did toyota put the belt in - - or a shade tree guy?
>Hope this helps,
>Clyde
>[color=green]
>> I had a broken timing belt while driving on a freeway. I had the timing belt
>> replaced and the timing marks set correctly, the engine cranks and try to[/color]
>[quoted text clipped - 6 lines][color=green]
>> Thanks,
>> -don[/color][/color]

"Coolguy" <u17209@uwe> wrote in message news:59c694a30a79a@uwe...[color=blue]
>I had a broken timing belt while driving on a freeway. I had the timing
>belt
> replaced and the timing marks set correctly, the engine cranks and try to
> start but wasn't able to get it running. The engine also shakes and I
> also
> heard popping sound while cranking. Any experts out there knows if the
> valves may have been bented? Are 1990 V6 3.0L 4runner engines
> interference
> engines that can easily bent the valves in this case? If so, any idea
> what
> it would cost to repair it?
>
> Thanks,
> -don[/color]

If you have the valve timing marks lined up properly then you nreed to do
a compression test. This will tell you if you hvae any bent valves.

I have a 90 4runner and had the timing belt replaced at 125k. Some of the
links were broke but the chain was still together.

The 22RE engine WILL have internal damage to the valves and possibly
cylinders if the timing chain breaks. I don't know about the 6 cyclinder.

"Coolguy" <u17209@uwe> wrote in message news:59c694a30a79a@uwe...[color=blue]
>I had a broken timing belt while driving on a freeway. I had the timing
>belt
> replaced and the timing marks set correctly, the engine cranks and try to
> start but wasn't able to get it running. The engine also shakes and I
> also
> heard popping sound while cranking. Any experts out there knows if the
> valves may have been bented? Are 1990 V6 3.0L 4runner engines
> interference
> engines that can easily bent the valves in this case? If so, any idea
> what
> it would cost to repair it?
>
> Thanks,
> -don[/color]

The 3vZE is a NON-interference engine.

Thanks Keyser, that is nice to know. To elaborate on what happened. The
4runner overheated because of leaking water pump. My wife pulled in a gas
station and some bozo told my wife the it is low on oil based on the
dashboard gage because he couldn't find the dip stick under the hood. He
then fill the engine with 4 quart of oil (and also fill the radiator with
water). Needless to say, my otherwise fine oil level in the engine is now 4
quarts of oil over the limit. During the drive home, the timing belt groove
got stripped by the crank gear on the freeway. Now that I double checked on
the timing marks after full rotation of the crankshaft on the newly installed
belt, the car still hesitate to start and shake and popping sound. It does
sound like a timing problem, but I checked and double checked the marks, so
it doesn't seem like a timing mark issue. Since it is a non-interference
engine, the valve may not be bent from the timing belt stripped. Can the
overflow of oil cause the probelm? Does this still sound like a bent valve or
internal injury to the engine? For a compression test, I have to call a tow
truck to tow it to a shop which I hesitate to do until the last resort. Any
help from you gurus would be appreciated.

Thanks,
-don

Keyser Soze wrote:[color=blue][color=green]
>>I had a broken timing belt while driving on a freeway. I had the timing
>>belt[/color]
>[quoted text clipped - 10 lines][color=green]
>> Thanks,
>> -don[/color]
>
>The 3vZE is a NON-interference engine.[/color]

--
Message posted via CarKB.com
[url]http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/toyota-truck/200601/1[/url]

"Coolguy via CarKB.com" <u17209@uwe> wrote in message
news:59d167ea7c527@uwe...[color=blue]
> Thanks Keyser, that is nice to know. To elaborate on what happened. The
> 4runner overheated because of leaking water pump. My wife pulled in a gas
> station and some bozo told my wife the it is low on oil based on the
> dashboard gage because he couldn't find the dip stick under the hood. He
> then fill the engine with 4 quart of oil (and also fill the radiator with
> water). Needless to say, my otherwise fine oil level in the engine is now
> 4
> quarts of oil over the limit. During the drive home, the timing belt
> groove
> got stripped by the crank gear on the freeway. Now that I double checked
> on
> the timing marks after full rotation of the crankshaft on the newly
> installed
> belt, the car still hesitate to start and shake and popping sound. It
> does
> sound like a timing problem, but I checked and double checked the marks,
> so
> it doesn't seem like a timing mark issue. Since it is a non-interference
> engine, the valve may not be bent from the timing belt stripped. Can the
> overflow of oil cause the probelm? Does this still sound like a bent valve
> or
> internal injury to the engine? For a compression test, I have to call a
> tow
> truck to tow it to a shop which I hesitate to do until the last resort.
> Any
> help from you gurus would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
> -don
>
> Keyser Soze wrote:[color=green][color=darkred]
>>>I had a broken timing belt while driving on a freeway. I had the timing
>>>belt[/color]
>>[quoted text clipped - 10 lines][color=darkred]
>>> Thanks,
>>> -don[/color]
>>
>>The 3vZE is a NON-interference engine.[/color]
>
> --
> Message posted via CarKB.com
> [url]http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/toyota-truck/200601/1[/url][/color]

If you can change a timing belt you sure can check the compression. It isn't
difficult. :)
Overfilling the crankcase is a no no but I would guess the overheating is a
more likely suspect of your new problems. Worse case but not an unlikely
scenario is a warped head and or failed headgasket. Get a compression gauge,
pull the plugs and get a reading.

Sounds like the most likely problem is a blown gasket or head. You can
get a compression tester at your local auto parts place for about
$30-$40 and test it yourself. Just pull out all of your plugs, screw in
the compression tester and crank a few revolutions at each spark plug
port. The readings should all be within 20% of eachother, if it is more
you either have a blown head gasket or warped head, block, or worse a
crack! If it looks like it's just the head gasket, have the head
checked for warpage or, for about $120 in tools you can test it
yourself. Go to [url]www.snapon.com[/url] and buy a 24" precision straightedge and
set of feeler guages starting from .002" and larger. Since you've done
the timing belt yourself, I'll assume you have a decent shop manual. It
will show you how to check the head and block for warpage.
If the head gasket looks ok, I'd think about swapping the long block as
that means there's deeper problems. Between the overheating and excess
oil added, these are sure to have done some damage.

Thanks guys. Here is an update. I did a full rotation on the crankshaft
like Clyde said and I was able to start the engine. I also did the
compression test and here's what I got:
cyl 1 = 160 psi
cyl 2 = 120 psi
cyl 3 = 155 psi
cyl 4 = 150 psi
cyl 5 = 165 psi
cyl 6 = 150 psi

Looks like cyl #2 is a bit low. The car idles at around 500 rpm which is
pretty rough. I use the tachnometer on the dashboard and run it to 800 rpm
to set the timing at 10 degree BTDC with the terminals E1 and TE1 shorted
according to the manual. However, the idle is still around 500 rpm and
running rough. The idle speed on the fuel injected engine cannot be adjusted.
The manual says it is automatically adjusted by the cpu. Sometimes it even
backfired. When I step on the accellerator, the engine sounds much smoother.
When I put it on drive, I can only get the 4runner to crawl and then died.
Sounds like the timing is quite off.

I have a few questions for you gurus.
1. From the compression data, can the cyl #2 still be warp or is it just a
bit worn?
2. Since the car idles low and only crawls when put on drive, does this
sound like a timing issue to you guys? How can I do a more accurate timing?
3. What else should I do to get it to work? Any other comments and ideas?

Thanks in advance,
-don


MrFixit469 wrote:[color=blue]
>Sounds like the most likely problem is a blown gasket or head. You can
>get a compression tester at your local auto parts place for about
>$30-$40 and test it yourself. Just pull out all of your plugs, screw in
>the compression tester and crank a few revolutions at each spark plug
>port. The readings should all be within 20% of eachother, if it is more
>you either have a blown head gasket or warped head, block, or worse a
>crack! If it looks like it's just the head gasket, have the head
>checked for warpage or, for about $120 in tools you can test it
>yourself. Go to [url]www.snapon.com[/url] and buy a 24" precision straightedge and
>set of feeler guages starting from .002" and larger. Since you've done
>the timing belt yourself, I'll assume you have a decent shop manual. It
>will show you how to check the head and block for warpage.
>If the head gasket looks ok, I'd think about swapping the long block as
>that means there's deeper problems. Between the overheating and excess
>oil added, these are sure to have done some damage.[/color]

--
Message posted via CarKB.com
[url]http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/toyota-truck/200601/1[/url]

The reading at #2 shows that, at the very least, the head gasket is
blown. You MUST address this issue BEFORE you address any other
problems! The only way to check if the head or block is warped is to
take the head off and manually check it as described above.
REMEMBER...when taking the head off, loosen the head bolts ONLY 1/4
TURN AT A TIME, in the reverse order as the manual shows to tighten
thehead bolts. You will be starting at the outside edges and working
toward the center. IF YOU DEVIATE FROM THIS PROCEDURE, YOU WILL WARP
THE HEAD, EVEN IF IT'S NOT ALREADY!!!
Your manual will have the procedure for removing the head, it is
pretty involved, including removing both the intake and exhaust
manifolds. If you've never done this before, follow your manual's
instructions to the letter!!! Keep your fingers crossed that the only
problem is the gasket.