Door stuck shut covers panel screws (how to remove?)

I'm stuck inside my truck.

Details:
1998 Toyota 4Runner, power mirror, locks, & windows.
Driver door stuck in the shut position covers two panel screws.
How (the hell) do we remove the panel to fix the door?

I bought the Chilton "68604 1997-00 Repair Manual" for "Pick-Ups/Land
Cruiser/4Runner" which shows me two screws need to be removed on the door
panel next but they are covered by the side of the dash. Is there an R&R
procedure you know of that covers this possibility?

Unfortunately, the Chilton photos seem to be from a pickup truck (Tacoma)
so everything can be different than what it says in that manual. (I
couldn't find a Toyota Factory Shop manual at Kragans. Do they sell them?).

I can't be the first person to be stuck with a shut driver door on a
4runner with power windows so I'm hoping there's a writeup somewhere or at
least a Toyota user group that I may ask.

Can you get me going (I'm an advocate, not a mechanic).

I googled for "toyota auto repair stuck door" and got these newsgroups as
the most likely first lead. Where should I go next?

Thanks,
Stu

"Stuart A. Bronstein" <spamtrap@lexregia.com> wrote in message
news:JzRyf.10914$Jd.30@newssvr25.news.prodigy.net...[color=blue]
> I'm stuck inside my truck.
>
> Details:
> 1998 Toyota 4Runner, power mirror, locks, & windows.
> Driver door stuck in the shut position covers two panel screws.
> How (the hell) do we remove the panel to fix the door?
>
> I bought the Chilton "68604 1997-00 Repair Manual" for "Pick-Ups/Land
> Cruiser/4Runner" which shows me two screws need to be removed on the door
> panel next but they are covered by the side of the dash. Is there an R&R
> procedure you know of that covers this possibility?
>
> Unfortunately, the Chilton photos seem to be from a pickup truck (Tacoma)
> so everything can be different than what it says in that manual. (I
> couldn't find a Toyota Factory Shop manual at Kragans. Do they sell
> them?).
>
> I can't be the first person to be stuck with a shut driver door on a
> 4runner with power windows so I'm hoping there's a writeup somewhere or at
> least a Toyota user group that I may ask.
>
> Can you get me going (I'm an advocate, not a mechanic).
>
> I googled for "toyota auto repair stuck door" and got these newsgroups as
> the most likely first lead. Where should I go next?
>
> Thanks,
> Stu[/color]

How skinny is the space between the door panel and the dashboard? There are
very low profile right angle ratcheting screwdrivers. Can you get even your
flat hand in there?

"Stuart A. Bronstein" <spamtrap@lexregia.com> wrote in message
news:JzRyf.10914$Jd.30@newssvr25.news.prodigy.net...[color=blue]
> I'm stuck inside my truck.
>
> Details:
> 1998 Toyota 4Runner, power mirror, locks, & windows.
> Driver door stuck in the shut position covers two panel screws.
> How (the hell) do we remove the panel to fix the door?
>
> I bought the Chilton "68604 1997-00 Repair Manual" for "Pick-Ups/Land
> Cruiser/4Runner" which shows me two screws need to be removed on the door
> panel next but they are covered by the side of the dash. Is there an R&R
> procedure you know of that covers this possibility?
>
> Unfortunately, the Chilton photos seem to be from a pickup truck (Tacoma)
> so everything can be different than what it says in that manual. (I
> couldn't find a Toyota Factory Shop manual at Kragans. Do they sell
> them?).[/color]

The Tacoma and 4 Runner are similar enough that the procedures for removiung
the interior door panel will be the same. The only place to get a Toyota
Factory Service Manual is through Toyota's Material Distribution Center,
through a dealer, or on a subscription basis at [url]http://techinfo.toyota.com/[/url].
I believe the subscription is avfailable for $10 per day.
[color=blue]
>
> I can't be the first person to be stuck with a shut driver door on a
> 4runner with power windows so I'm hoping there's a writeup somewhere or at
> least a Toyota user group that I may ask.
>
> Can you get me going (I'm an advocate, not a mechanic).
>
> I googled for "toyota auto repair stuck door" and got these newsgroups as
> the most likely first lead. Where should I go next?
>
> Thanks,
> Stu[/color]

What is happening when you try the interior or exterior door handle? Does
it act like it is locked or does it act like it is disconnected?

If you can get remove every clip and screw from the door panel except for
the ones by the dash, then move the driver's seat all the way back and
reclined and see if you can pull the panel away from the door far enough to
release the latch.
--

Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)

On Mon, 16 Jan 2006 18:26:49 +0000, Stuart A. Bronstein wrote:
[color=blue]
> I'm stuck inside my truck.
>
> Details:
> 1998 Toyota 4Runner, power mirror, locks, & windows.
> Driver door stuck in the shut position covers two panel screws.
> How (the hell) do we remove the panel to fix the door?
>
> I bought the Chilton "68604 1997-00 Repair Manual" for "Pick-Ups/Land
> Cruiser/4Runner" which shows me two screws need to be removed on the door
> panel next but they are covered by the side of the dash. Is there an R&R
> procedure you know of that covers this possibility?
>
> Unfortunately, the Chilton photos seem to be from a pickup truck (Tacoma)
> so everything can be different than what it says in that manual. (I
> couldn't find a Toyota Factory Shop manual at Kragans. Do they sell them?).
>
> I can't be the first person to be stuck with a shut driver door on a
> 4runner with power windows so I'm hoping there's a writeup somewhere or at
> least a Toyota user group that I may ask.
>
> Can you get me going (I'm an advocate, not a mechanic).
>
> I googled for "toyota auto repair stuck door" and got these newsgroups as
> the most likely first lead. Where should I go next?
>
> Thanks,
> Stu[/color]

HOW is the door stuck? By ice, or simply not opening?

You can 'slim jim' the door open using a wire coat hanger.

I really hope i'm not helping you steal a car!!!

--
A young girl I know told me I drive like an old man

I told her, actually, I drive like Mario Andretti.
It's just that too many other people on the road
drive like Paul Tracy...

Stuart A. Bronstein, 1/16/2006,1:26:49 PM, wrote:
[color=blue]
> I googled for "toyota auto repair stuck door" and got these
> newsgroups as the most likely first lead. Where should I go next?[/color]

Seems to me you will have to get that door open somehow. A locksmith
or someone handy with a Slim Jim might be able to help. If you got all
the screws but two out you should be able to pull the panel out most of
the way. Barring that, try this:
[url]http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=4095[/url]

Stuart A. Bronstein, 1/16/2006, 1:26:49 PM,
<JzRyf.10914$Jd.30@newssvr25.news.prodigy.net> wrote:
[color=blue]
> I'm stuck inside my truck.
>
> Details:
> 1998 Toyota 4Runner, power mirror, locks, & windows.
> Driver door stuck in the shut position covers two panel screws.
> How (the hell) do we remove the panel to fix the door?
>
> I bought the Chilton "68604 1997-00 Repair Manual" for "Pick-Ups/Land
> Cruiser/4Runner" which shows me two screws need to be removed on the
> door panel next but they are covered by the side of the dash. Is
> there an R&R procedure you know of that covers this possibility?
>
> Unfortunately, the Chilton photos seem to be from a pickup truck
> (Tacoma) so everything can be different than what it says in that
> manual. (I couldn't find a Toyota Factory Shop manual at Kragans. Do
> they sell them?).
>
> I can't be the first person to be stuck with a shut driver door on a
> 4runner with power windows so I'm hoping there's a writeup somewhere
> or at least a Toyota user group that I may ask.
>
> Can you get me going (I'm an advocate, not a mechanic).
>
> I googled for "toyota auto repair stuck door" and got these
> newsgroups as the most likely first lead. Where should I go next?
>
> Thanks,
> Stu[/color]

Seems to me you will have to get that door open. A locksmith or
someone handy with a Slim Jim may be able to help. If you only have
two screws left you ought to be able to pull the panel out enough to
get your hands on the locking mechanism. Barring that you could try
this:
[url]http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=4095[/url]

On 17 Jan 2006 15:07:25 GMT, "badgolferman"
<REMOVETHISbadgolferman@gmail.com> wrote:[color=blue]
>Stuart A. Bronstein, 1/16/2006, 1:26:49 PM,
><JzRyf.10914$Jd.30@newssvr25.news.prodigy.net> wrote:[/color]
[color=blue][color=green]
>> I'm stuck inside my truck.[/color][/color]

So, like how are you writing this? ;-)
[color=blue][color=green]
>> Details:
>> 1998 Toyota 4Runner, power mirror, locks, & windows.
>> Driver door stuck in the shut position covers two panel screws.
>> How (the hell) do we remove the panel to fix the door?
>>
>> Unfortunately, the Chilton photos seem to be from a pickup truck
>> (Tacoma) so everything can be different than what it says in that
>> manual. (I couldn't find a Toyota Factory Shop manual at Kragans. Do
>> they sell them?).[/color][/color]

Might be slightly different from the photo, but they all come from a
common parts bin at the factory. And it makes no sense to make things
totally different when they don't have to be - they can get a much
better deal ordering 100,000 locks of one style per batch than they do
when they order 20 different runs of 5,000 to 10,000 each. Saves a
ton just in tooling up the production line for each change.

And Chilton (& the other aftermarket repair books) figure out what
models are basically common and they tear down one sample car to get
their pictures. But they don't always get it exactly right - so you
have to take all their recommendations with a bit of salt.

This is why you pay more (sometimes a lot more) for the factory
repair manuals - you can take them as Gospel, which makes them worth
the added expense. Because those writers have open access to the
actual assembly line and all the blueprints and parts lists, know
about all the running production changes, and checked any questions
with the engineers that built the car.
[color=blue]
>Seems to me you will have to get that door open. A locksmith or
>someone handy with a Slim Jim may be able to help. If you only have
>two screws left you ought to be able to pull the panel out enough to
>get your hands on the locking mechanism. Barring that you could try
>this:
>[url]http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=4095[/url][/color]

Ha. Ha. Ha. (NOT.)

Actually, before you resort to "destructive entry methods" like a
chop saw, I'd try a 'Slim Jim' Lockout Kit and a Borescope.

[url]http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=46703[/url]

Call your local licensed Locksmiths, they are probably the best bet
to have both tools, and know how to use them efficiently.

You have to find and snag the latch release mechanism from the
inside (not just the lock button linkage) to get the door open, which
is where the borescope fits in. Slide it in through the window gap so
you can see what you are doing with the unlock tools, rather than
flail around blind.

They deliberately don't make it that easy to pop the lock from the
outside by placing guard plates and other devices in the way of the
linkages. If they were easy to pick, cars would disappear more often.

After somebody gets the door open, then you can get the inside trim
panel off and have the access needed to really fix it. It's probably
cheaper if you drive to the locksmith shop and have them pop it open
there - then you can take the door trim panel off, and drive it home
to mess around further at your leisure.

--<< Bruce >>--

--
Bruce L. Bergman, Woodland Hills (Los Angeles) CA - Desktop
Electrician for Westend Electric - CA726700
5737 Kanan Rd. #359, Agoura CA 91301 (818) 889-9545
Spamtrapped address: Remove the python and the invalid, and use a net.

Before you get destructive, try removing the driver's seat. This should
give you enough room to pull the left side of the door panel away and
stick something inside the door to manipulate the lock mechanism
manually.

"Doug Kanter" <ancientangler@hotmail.com> wrote in
news:JZRyf.917$wk5.699@news02.roc.ny:
[color=blue]
> How skinny is the space between the door panel and the dashboard?
> There are very low profile right angle ratcheting screwdrivers. Can
> you get even your flat hand in there?[/color]

Sorry I didn't get back sooner. I had a trip back east and just arrived
back home to San Jose Airport climbing in the passenger side (again) of the
stuck-door Toyota 4Runner until we figure this out.

You could barely slip a piece of cardboard between the front of the driver
side door panel and the dash so it's unlikely a screwdriver will ever get
in there.

A hand wouldn't fit, even by the original Japanese maiden who may have
placed it there in the first place.

I'll read the other posts to see what advice is given but I do thank you
for taking the time and effort to help a driver in need.

Thank you,
Stu

"Ray O" <rokigawa@tristarassociatesDOTcomn> wrote in
news:dd702$43cbf2f4$44a4a10d$23772@msgid.meganewsservers.com:[color=blue]
> What is happening when you try the interior or exterior door handle?
> Does it act like it is locked or does it act like it is disconnected?[/color]

About a week before the Toyota 4Runner door lock mechanism broke for good,
the handle was in a wierd position from the outside when I opened the door
and felt something unnatural move inside. After that point, the front door
would not open from the outside, even with the key but it would open fine
from the inside and the automatic door lock button on both doors locked all
four doors but only unlocked the three unaffected doors.

Then, all of a sudden, the electric door window would not go down all the
way. I have no idea why the window would be so affected but it goes up
fine. But now the inside door lock doesn't open the door. It feels like
there is nothing connected to it.

When I try the door handles (inside or outside) now, it feels as if it's
disconnected. However, when I press the lock/unlock electric button, the
door lock pin at the top wiggles (but does not move sufficiently to unlock
the door).

[color=blue]
> If you can get remove every clip and screw from the door panel except
> for the ones by the dash, then move the driver's seat all the way back
> and reclined and see if you can pull the panel away from the door far
> enough to release the latch.[/color]

I will see if that works. I did remove the screw inside the inside door
handle escutcheon; I lifted off the arm rest (it's just clipped on), and I
removed two larger screws holding the door panel to the door metal. At this
point, I think the only thing (according to the Chilton manual anyway)
holding me back are all the clips and the two screws covered by the side of
the dash.

I'll read the other help before proceeding this weekend (when I finally
have a day off from the daily grind) but I do very much appreciate your
helpful advice and kind attention.

Stu

Hachiroku <Trueno@ae86.GTS> wrote in
news:pan.2006.01.17.00.24.14.525412@ae86.GTS:[color=blue]
> HOW is the door stuck? By ice, or simply not opening?
> You can 'slim jim' the door open using a wire coat hanger.
> I really hope i'm not helping you steal a car!!![/color]

I should have noted I am in the San Jose California area so I don't know
what ice is (anymore) as it's about sixty degrees fahrenheit today :) and
the worst we get all winter is a bit of drizzle that they call a horrible
storm on the news stations (which have never seen real weather in their
entire lives).

Actually, I used to know ice as I remember my Datsun 240Z cast aluminum
door handle breaking in half on a freezing wintry day back in Michigan in
the olden days of college. Now THOSE were storms in those days!

I didn't think of the slim jim approach. I picked up two of them today at
Kragans. A thick one about an inch and a bit wide and a thinner one. I've
seen AAA use them to open cars so I hadn't thought of that myself. I don't
know what to do but I guess you slip it in and wiggle it about (hmmm ...
that reminds me, I haven't seen my girlfriend in a week) and hopefully
something comes loose.

Thanks for the advice and for taking the time to advise me. I think opening
the door is a good approach. Who knows, maybe I can try it out on that
Lamborghini I saw in the airport parking lot earlier today. :)

Stu

"badgolferman" <REMOVETHISbadgolferman@gmail.com> wrote in
news:xn0ehb7ke272edg007@news.readfreenews.net:[color=blue]
> Seems to me you will have to get that door open somehow. A locksmith
> or someone handy with a Slim Jim might be able to help. If you got all
> the screws but two out you should be able to pull the panel out most of
> the way. Barring that, try this:
> [url]http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=4095[/url][/color]

Ouch!

Bruce L. Bergman <blPYTHONbergman@earthlink.invalid> wrote in
news:6j7qs1ltabg3e668n58clc6p0ra3tskkvi@4ax.com:[color=blue]
> This is why you pay more (sometimes a lot more) for the factory
> repair manuals - you can take them as Gospel, which makes them worth
> the added expense.[/color]

Since the care is 7 years old, it makes sense for me to purchase the
4Runner factory shop manual. I thought the Chilton's would do it but I
hear (from googling) that the Toyota 4Runner Factory Repair Manual is
the way to go. I will stop by the dealer before the weekend to see if
they have it in stock. I googled for it but didn't find any current
listings. I'd expect it to be a hundred bucks or so (am I close?).


[color=blue][color=green]
>>Seems to me you will have to get that door open. A locksmith or
>>someone handy with a Slim Jim may be able to help.[/color][/color]

I don't see how a locksmith will help as I have the key but I do agree
that I hadn't thought of the slim jim (I picked up two from Kragans)
which I'll try to squiggle in there to open the door when I have time
this weekend off from work.
[color=blue]
> Actually, before you resort to "destructive entry methods" like a
> chop saw, I'd try a 'Slim Jim' Lockout Kit and a Borescope.
> [url]http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=46703[/url][/color]

Interesting that boroscope. It's pricey but it seems to have many uses.
I can even use it with my girlfriend if she is so inclined :)
[color=blue]
> You have to find and snag the latch release mechanism from the
> inside (not just the lock button linkage) to get the door open, which
> is where the borescope fits in. Slide it in through the window gap so
> you can see what you are doing with the unlock tools, rather than
> flail around blind.[/color]

Interesting. I can see that the boroscope should work for that (as long
as the neck fits into the space between the door and the window glass).
[color=blue]
> They deliberately don't make it that easy to pop the lock from the
> outside by placing guard plates and other devices in the way of the
> linkages. If they were easy to pick, cars would disappear more often.[/color]

I have the key so if that doesn't work, I suspect playing around with
the lock mechanism itself won't do much good either (as you said).
[color=blue]
> After somebody gets the door open, then you can get the inside trim
> panel off and have the access needed to really fix it.[/color]

I wonder if I can call AAA? I have a membership but this isn't an
emergency towing situation as the car is in my driveway. I wonder if
they cover opening the door so that I can then work on it from there
even though the other 3 doors work fine???

Thanks for all the ideas,
Stu

"MrFixit469" <MrFixit469@verizon.net> wrote in
news:1137519522.486812.304160@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com:[color=blue]
> Before you get destructive, try removing the driver's seat. This should
> give you enough room to pull the left side of the door panel away and
> stick something inside the door to manipulate the lock mechanism
> manually.[/color]

I'm sure removing the Toyota 4Runner driver seat won't hurt but I have
plenty of room on the left side of the driver side door panel (facing the
door from the driver seat inside). It's the right side of the door panel,
far from the driver seat, that has the two screws that the Chilton manual
shows to be covered by the dash panel.

Looking at the open passenger side door, I can see the two plastic knobs
covering the bolt holes so if the driver side is anything like the
passenger side, removing the seat won't get me any closer.

I think the numerous suggestions to slim jim the door open are the best.
Maybe I can call AAA and not tell them the other three doors work fine?
Do you think they'll believe me?

Stu

"Ray O" <rokigawa@tristarassociatesDOTcomn> wrote in
news:dd702$43cbf2f4$44a4a10d$23772@msgid.meganewsservers.com:[color=blue]
> The only place to get a Toyota Factory Service Manual is
> through Toyota's Material Distribution Center, through a dealer,
> or on a subscription basis at [url]http://techinfo.toyota.com[/url][/color]

I found this site titled "Toyota Factory Service Manual"
[url]http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/FSM.shtml[/url]

I just now called the 800 number provided there but Toyota is closed for
Martin Luther King day (bummer - how come I had to work but they don't).

Toyota Material Distribution Center
750 West Victoria St
Rancho Dominguez/Compton, CA 90220-5538 USA
800.622.2033 (outside CA)(M-F: 7-5 PST)
800.443.7656 (inside CA)
310.818.4630 (in or outside CA)

I would rather have the manual full time so I don't think I'll get a
subscription to [url]http://techinfo.toyota.com[/url] unless I can get web get (wget)
to work as a spider to download the entire site to my PC hard disk in a
half hour :)

There are free Toyota 4Runner shop repair manuals at the AutoZone site
[url]http://www1.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?[/url]
ForwardPage=/az/repair_info/repair_guide/repair_guide.jsp

Unfortunately (for me), the closest AutoZone has for me is a link titled
"Toyota Pick-Ups/Land Cruiser/4Runner 1989-1996" at
[url]http://www1.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?[/url]
ForwardPage=az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/19/8e/30/0900823d80198e30.jsp
with a door-removal procedure and exploded diagram at
[url]http://www1.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?[/url]
ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/16/28/c0/0900823d801628c0.jsp
but it does not cover the 1998 model year. Bummer.

I was surprised to find free online shop manuals so if you know of an
online exploded diagram of the 1998 model year, that would be wonderful.

Stu