My Starter motor clicks like the battery is low, solinoid clicks then
nothing. after a couple of tries the SM spins and the truck starts like new.
A mechanic told me it is an internal problem with the SM contacts and I
might as well just install a new SM. Then he told me the SM is under Fuel
injection and will require 4 hours of labor and we are looking at a $700
charge. Can this be correct?
Outlook Rich wrote:[color=blue]
> My Starter motor clicks like the battery is low, solinoid clicks then
> nothing. after a couple of tries the SM spins and the truck starts
> like new. A mechanic told me it is an internal problem with the SM
> contacts and I might as well just install a new SM. Then he told me
> the SM is under Fuel injection and will require 4 hours of labor and
> we are looking at a $700 charge. Can this be correct?
>
> all help gratefully accepted, Rich[/color]
I've heard some of the Lexus starters are under the intake manifold so I
looked at my 2001 Tundra. I didn't crawl under but looked under the hood and
the starter appears to be on the passenger side of the engine below the
exhaust manifold. This is a common problem on Toyota starters but because of
their design the only major wear item is the contacts and you can r&r the
contacts and be trouble free for a long time. If you don't have service info
then google and you should find quite a few sites with info.
davidj92
Outlook Rich sez:
[color=blue]
> My Starter motor clicks like the battery is low, solinoid clicks then
> nothing. after a couple of tries the SM spins and the truck starts like new.
> A mechanic told me it is an internal problem with the SM contacts and I
> might as well just install a new SM. Then he told me the SM is under Fuel
> injection and will require 4 hours of labor and we are looking at a $700
> charge. Can this be correct?[/color]
Best to rule out the battery first, has it been tested? A bad cell can
exhibit this type of symptom.
If it is the starter, yes, it is under the intake plenum and it has to
be removed. However, 4 hours seems a bit long. A good wrench that has
done it at least once should be able to get the job done in 2 hrs.
"Outlook Rich" <rich@refreshed.com> wrote in
news:11v41cs8f83816e@corp.supernews.com:
[color=blue]
> My Starter motor clicks like the battery is low, solinoid clicks then
> nothing. after a couple of tries the SM spins and the truck starts
> like new. A mechanic told me it is an internal problem with the SM
> contacts and I might as well just install a new SM. Then he told me
> the SM is under Fuel injection and will require 4 hours of labor and
> we are looking at a $700 charge. Can this be correct?
>
> all help gratefully accepted, Rich[/color]
It's unusual that a 2000 would have contact wear unless you've got well
over 100k on it. My Tacoma gave those symptoms at 150k and I repaired it
for under $15. Instead of replacing the whole starter, Toyota sells repair
kits with brand new contacts and related parts. If you're able to access
and remove the starter (it can be a drag), replacing the contacts is fairly
simple. I know they sell the kits for Tacomas so I assume it's true for
Tundras. I couldn't get my starter all the way out without bending a brake
line but I was able to repair it in place.
Below is what Tacoma contact parts look like (not my website). You have to
buy two separate item numbers. You may not need to replace all the parts
included. Make sure your starter plunger/spring is mechanically sound or
this method won't suffice. During disassembly, a small ball bearing may fly
out so do it carefully!
----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==----
[url]http://www.newsfeeds.com[/url] The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups
----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =----
"Outlook Rich" <rich@refreshed.com> wrote in message
news:11v41cs8f83816e@corp.supernews.com...[color=blue]
> My Starter motor clicks like the battery is low, solinoid clicks then
> nothing. after a couple of tries the SM spins and the truck starts like
> new.
> A mechanic told me it is an internal problem with the SM contacts and I
> might as well just install a new SM. Then he told me the SM is under Fuel
> injection and will require 4 hours of labor and we are looking at a $700
> charge. Can this be correct?
>
> all help gratefully accepted, Rich[/color]
Assuming battery & charging system is OK, that clicking sound is a warning
that you'd better remember to wear comfortable walking shoes any time you're
in the truck, until you change the starter motor. I can't address the rest
of your question, though.
davidj92 wrote:[color=blue]
> Outlook Rich wrote:[color=green]
>> My Starter motor clicks like the battery is low, solinoid clicks then
>> nothing. after a couple of tries the SM spins and the truck starts
>> like new. A mechanic told me it is an internal problem with the SM
>> contacts and I might as well just install a new SM. Then he told me
>> the SM is under Fuel injection and will require 4 hours of labor and
>> we are looking at a $700 charge. Can this be correct?
>>
>> all help gratefully accepted, Rich[/color]
>
> I've heard some of the Lexus starters are under the intake manifold
> so I looked at my 2001 Tundra. I didn't crawl under but looked under
> the hood and the starter appears to be on the passenger side of the
> engine below the exhaust manifold. This is a common problem on Toyota
> starters but because of their design the only major wear item is the
> contacts and you can r&r the contacts and be trouble free for a long
> time. If you don't have service info then google and you should find
> quite a few sites with info. davidj92[/color]
My oversight, my engine is the 3.4L V6 so it may be different. Went to
TundraSolutions, did a search and this is what I found.
1. On the 4.7L V8 the starter is under the intake.
2. A couple Toyota Tech's posted the usual time is 2 hrs. labor, parts are
$15-20.
3. This is a common problem on Toyota starters, there are TSB's issued on
some models, there may be one on yours.
I also agree with other posters, you need to rule out battery, contacts and
charging system first.
davidj92
"davidj92" <davidj92REMOVE@sigecom.net> wrote in message
news:IYidnU6RYbYL4W7eRVn-pQ@sigecom.net...[color=blue]
> davidj92 wrote:[color=green]
>> Outlook Rich wrote:[color=darkred]
>>> My Starter motor clicks like the battery is low, solinoid clicks then
>>> nothing. after a couple of tries the SM spins and the truck starts
>>> like new. A mechanic told me it is an internal problem with the SM
>>> contacts and I might as well just install a new SM. Then he told me
>>> the SM is under Fuel injection and will require 4 hours of labor and
>>> we are looking at a $700 charge. Can this be correct?
>>>
>>> all help gratefully accepted, Rich[/color]
>>
>> I've heard some of the Lexus starters are under the intake manifold
>> so I looked at my 2001 Tundra. I didn't crawl under but looked under
>> the hood and the starter appears to be on the passenger side of the
>> engine below the exhaust manifold. This is a common problem on Toyota
>> starters but because of their design the only major wear item is the
>> contacts and you can r&r the contacts and be trouble free for a long
>> time. If you don't have service info then google and you should find
>> quite a few sites with info. davidj92[/color]
>
> My oversight, my engine is the 3.4L V6 so it may be different. Went to
> TundraSolutions, did a search and this is what I found.
> 1. On the 4.7L V8 the starter is under the intake.
> 2. A couple Toyota Tech's posted the usual time is 2 hrs. labor, parts are
> $15-20.
> 3. This is a common problem on Toyota starters, there are TSB's issued on
> some models, there may be one on yours.
> I also agree with other posters, you need to rule out battery, contacts
> and charging system first.
> davidj92
>[/color]
I assume that by parts, they mean things required OTHER THAN the starter
motor itself, right?
Ace Electric # S-5263 (only two contacts)
Ace Electric # S-5264 (only two contacts)
Metro # 66-82104 (only two contacts) ([url]www.metroautoinc.com[/url]
,Pomona,California)
Toyota # 28226-72010/80 (battery side)(also1KZTE-2LT-1KZT)
Toyota # 28226-72080 (8808-9108)
Toyota # 28226-16130 (9108-9308)
Toyota # 28226-55050 (9308-9511)
Toyota # 28226-70040 (9308-9511)
Toyota # 28226-72040 (motor side if needed)
Toyota # 28226-72010 (8808-9511)
Toyota # 28226-74070 (9108-9511) (2000 Tundra & others)
Toyota # 28226-22050 (2000 Tundra & others)
For others besides 22R series:
Toyota # 28226-54220 (motor side) (2LTE, 3L..LN13# IKZTE, 2L#,
KZN130,LN108,112,85..4FC)
Toyota # 28226-54250 (Diesel Surf 2.4TD, contains a new end cover and
gasket)
Toyota # 28226-54320 (battery side) (2LTE, 3L..LN13# IKZTE, 2L#,
KZN130, LN108,112,85..4FC,3B-1HZ-BJ73-HZJ7#-1KZT-KZJ70)
Toyota # 28226-17030 (battery side) (1H#-HDJ80-HZJ80)
Toyota # 28226-56250 (battery side) (3B-1HZ-1PZ-PZJ7#)
Starter contacts only (8mm ID hole):
Ace Electric # S-5231
Ace Electric # S-5293 (crescent moon shape)
Ace Electric # S-5295 (crescent moon shape)
Metro # 66-82106 ([url]www.metroautoinc.com[/url] ,Pomona,California)
Tons more at:
[url]http://www.metroautoinc.com/PDF%20File/66-Denso%20Solenoid%20Contact.pdf[/url]
Toyota # 28226-70040
Wilson's Electric # 45-29-652 (maybe it's 45-29-6521)
Starter brushes:
AC Delco # D762
GP Sorensen # 255048
Standard # JX-117
Whether your starter uses two rectangular types or one rectangular and
one crescent you can substitute with two squares or one square and one
crescent so any of the above part #'s for those kits will be the right
ones,or about half of the auto electric shops in your local yellow
pages would sell aftermarket contacts for only $5 each or the pair.
If the brake and charge lights come on during revving of the engine
then it's a sign that the carbon alternator brushes require replacing
as this is the mileage for them to wear out. In alternators the brushes
wear out on average every 140-170 000 miles where on the dashboard the
brake & charge light both come on at the same time. About half of the
auto electric shops in your local yellow pages sell carbon alternator
brushes and copper solenoid starter contacts for about $5/pair.Another
way to verify that the alternator is not charging is while the engine
is running bring a metal screwdriver or any metal object near the
alternator and if the alternator is working properly then it should act
like a magnet and grab the screwdriver.
If the brake and charge lights come on during revving of the engine
then it's a sign that the carbon alternator brushes require replacing
as this is the mileage for them to wear out. In alternators the brushes
wear out on average every 140-170 000 miles where on the dashboard the
brake & charge light both come on at the same time. About half of the
auto electric shops in your local yellow pages sell carbon alternator
brushes and copper solenoid starter contacts for about $5/pair.Another
way to verify that the alternator is not charging is while the engine
is running bring a metal screwdriver or any metal object near the
alternator and if the alternator is working properly then it should act
like a magnet and grab the screwdriver.
Sidney® ™
Repairs tv's,vcr's,home/car audio out of my home
E-mail:sidneybek@yahoo.com
Dartmouth,Nova Scotia
Canada
1985 Toyota 4-Runner,solid front straight axle,factory cruise
control,sunroof,22R-E,W56,RN60LV-MSEK,rusted rear step/towing chrome
bumper with 247 000 KM
Doug Kanter wrote:[color=blue]
> "davidj92" <davidj92REMOVE@sigecom.net> wrote in message
> news:IYidnU6RYbYL4W7eRVn-pQ@sigecom.net...[color=green]
>> davidj92 wrote:[color=darkred]
>>> Outlook Rich wrote:
>>>> My Starter motor clicks like the battery is low, solinoid clicks
>>>> then nothing. after a couple of tries the SM spins and the truck
>>>> starts like new. A mechanic told me it is an internal problem with
>>>> the SM contacts and I might as well just install a new SM. Then he
>>>> told me the SM is under Fuel injection and will require 4 hours of
>>>> labor and we are looking at a $700 charge. Can this be correct?
>>>>
>>>> all help gratefully accepted, Rich
>>>
>>> I've heard some of the Lexus starters are under the intake manifold
>>> so I looked at my 2001 Tundra. I didn't crawl under but looked under
>>> the hood and the starter appears to be on the passenger side of the
>>> engine below the exhaust manifold. This is a common problem on
>>> Toyota starters but because of their design the only major wear
>>> item is the contacts and you can r&r the contacts and be trouble
>>> free for a long time. If you don't have service info then google
>>> and you should find quite a few sites with info. davidj92[/color]
>>
>> My oversight, my engine is the 3.4L V6 so it may be different. Went
>> to TundraSolutions, did a search and this is what I found.
>> 1. On the 4.7L V8 the starter is under the intake.
>> 2. A couple Toyota Tech's posted the usual time is 2 hrs. labor,
>> parts are $15-20.
>> 3. This is a common problem on Toyota starters, there are TSB's
>> issued on some models, there may be one on yours.
>> I also agree with other posters, you need to rule out battery,
>> contacts and charging system first.
>> davidj92
>>[/color]
>
> I assume that by parts, they mean things required OTHER THAN the
> starter motor itself, right?[/color]
Right, they were talking about just the price on the contacts. Most of the
posts stated it was only necessary to do just the contacts, a few posts
talked about r&r the complete starter, don't remember any pricing on that if
any. One experienced toyota tech talked about doing a challenge (disassemble
starter, r&r the contacts and reassemble the starter) with an with an
ego-inflated young tech just out of school. Claimed he did this in 18
minutes so I'm guessing the labor rate would only appx 1/2 hour for that.
davidj92
"davidj92" <davidj92REMOVE@sigecom.net> wrote in message
news:zaudnbsJAYiMMm7eRVn-pQ@sigecom.net...[color=blue]
> Doug Kanter wrote:[color=green]
>> "davidj92" <davidj92REMOVE@sigecom.net> wrote in message
>> news:IYidnU6RYbYL4W7eRVn-pQ@sigecom.net...[color=darkred]
>>> davidj92 wrote:
>>>> Outlook Rich wrote:
>>>>> My Starter motor clicks like the battery is low, solinoid clicks
>>>>> then nothing. after a couple of tries the SM spins and the truck
>>>>> starts like new. A mechanic told me it is an internal problem with
>>>>> the SM contacts and I might as well just install a new SM. Then he
>>>>> told me the SM is under Fuel injection and will require 4 hours of
>>>>> labor and we are looking at a $700 charge. Can this be correct?
>>>>>
>>>>> all help gratefully accepted, Rich
>>>>
>>>> I've heard some of the Lexus starters are under the intake manifold
>>>> so I looked at my 2001 Tundra. I didn't crawl under but looked under
>>>> the hood and the starter appears to be on the passenger side of the
>>>> engine below the exhaust manifold. This is a common problem on
>>>> Toyota starters but because of their design the only major wear
>>>> item is the contacts and you can r&r the contacts and be trouble
>>>> free for a long time. If you don't have service info then google
>>>> and you should find quite a few sites with info. davidj92
>>>
>>> My oversight, my engine is the 3.4L V6 so it may be different. Went
>>> to TundraSolutions, did a search and this is what I found.
>>> 1. On the 4.7L V8 the starter is under the intake.
>>> 2. A couple Toyota Tech's posted the usual time is 2 hrs. labor,
>>> parts are $15-20.
>>> 3. This is a common problem on Toyota starters, there are TSB's
>>> issued on some models, there may be one on yours.
>>> I also agree with other posters, you need to rule out battery,
>>> contacts and charging system first.
>>> davidj92
>>>[/color]
>>
>> I assume that by parts, they mean things required OTHER THAN the
>> starter motor itself, right?[/color]
>
> Right, they were talking about just the price on the contacts. Most of the
> posts stated it was only necessary to do just the contacts, a few posts
> talked about r&r the complete starter, don't remember any pricing on that
> if any. One experienced toyota tech talked about doing a challenge
> (disassemble starter, r&r the contacts and reassemble the starter) with an
> with an ego-inflated young tech just out of school. Claimed he did this in
> 18 minutes so I'm guessing the labor rate would only appx 1/2 hour for
> that.
> davidj92
>[/color]
They'd probably still charge according to "the book", so it would be
$1,219.99. :-)
I've had various Toyota vehicles since 1980 (Corolla, 4WD truck, etc)
and they ALL had recurring starter problems. Eventually I learned that
it was just pitting on the copper contacts in the starter solenoid
which can be easily taken apart and fixed. I tried two fixes - the
quick and easy fix is to take the copper contacts out and file them
down nicely so there is a good surface again. Don't forget the copper
contact on the plunger circumference as well. I've also tried silver
soldering the contacts which was a bit tricky for me, but once filed
flat again will give a much longer lasting fix, silver being a harder
metal than copper.
I also just had the same problem with a 1990 Chrysler minivan starter.
Try to start - click, click, sometimes start. Easy to fix - probably
took me an hour, max. The Toyota starters were never in an easy place
to get at them, unlike the van. On the Corollas, I had to remove the
exhaust manifold each time. On the truck, I had to go in through the
wheel well. A bit of a pain, but not a bad way to spend a couple of
hours communing with your car.... and a LOT cheaper than buying a new
starter or getting Toyota's techs to do whatever they do.
I've had various Toyota vehicles since 1980 (Corolla, 4WD truck, etc)
and they ALL had recurring starter problems. Eventually I learned that
it was just pitting on the copper contacts in the starter solenoid
which can be easily taken apart and fixed. I tried two fixes - the
quick and easy fix is to take the copper contacts out and file them
down nicely so there is a good surface again. Don't forget the copper
contact on the plunger circumference as well. I've also tried silver
soldering the contacts which was a bit tricky for me, but once filed
flat again will give a much longer lasting fix, silver being a harder
metal than copper.
I also just had the same problem with a 1990 Chrysler minivan starter.
Try to start - click, click, sometimes start. Easy to fix - probably
took me an hour, max. The Toyota starters were never in an easy place
to get at them, unlike the van. On the Corollas, I had to remove the
exhaust manifold each time. On the truck, I had to go in through the
wheel well. A bit of a pain, but not a bad way to spend a couple of
hours communing with your car.... and a LOT cheaper than buying a new
starter or getting Toyota's techs to do whatever they do.
I've had various Toyota vehicles since 1980 (Corolla, 4WD truck, etc)
and they ALL had recurring starter problems. Eventually I learned that
it was just pitting on the copper contacts in the starter solenoid
which can be easily taken apart and fixed. I tried two fixes - the
quick and easy fix is to take the copper contacts out and file them
down nicely so there is a good surface again. Don't forget the copper
contact on the plunger circumference as well. I've also tried silver
soldering the contacts which was a bit tricky for me, but once filed
flat again will give a much longer lasting fix, silver being a harder
metal than copper.
I also just had the same problem with a 1990 Chrysler minivan starter.
Try to start - click, click, sometimes start. Easy to fix - probably
took me an hour, max. The Toyota starters were never in an easy place
to get at them, unlike the van. On the Corollas, I had to remove the
exhaust manifold each time. On the truck, I had to go in through the
wheel well. A bit of a pain, but not a bad way to spend a couple of
hours communing with your car.... and a LOT cheaper than buying a new
starter or getting Toyota's techs to do whatever they do.
[email]davemcc@shaw.ca[/email] wrote:
snip[color=blue]
> I also just had the same problem with a 1990 Chrysler minivan starter.
> Try to start - click, click, sometimes start. Easy to fix - probably
> took me an hour, max.[/color]
snip
As I remember the Chrysler starters from years ago you could turn the
contact ring over or 180 deg. and get a new surface for a fix also.
davidj92
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.
ToyotaNation.com is an independent Toyota/Lexus enthusiast website. ToyotaNation.com is not sponsored by or in any way affiliated with Toyota Motor Sales, USA, Inc. The Toyota, Lexus and Scion names and logos are trademarks owned by Toyota Motor Sales, USA, Inc.