weight distribution and sway bars

What hitch is best for 700# hitch weight travel trailer. With a dual cam
anti sway do I have to drill holes in the trailer frame to mount the anti
sway?

Ribbet4 wrote:[color=blue]
> What hitch is best for 700# hitch weight travel trailer. With a dual cam
> anti sway do I have to drill holes in the trailer frame to mount the anti
> sway?
>
>[/color]
Best is a Hensley Arrow hitch or Pullrite hitch. Both cost a LOT.
Second best are either the Drawtite/Reese/HiddenHitch dual cam or
the Equal-i-zer brand hitch.

The original model of the dual cam does not require holes in the
frame, but might require repositioning the battery or propane holder
to allow for U-bolts over the frame.


Ken

On Mon, 20 Feb 2006 12:13:53 -0800, Ken Shelton
<shelton@cablespeed.com> wrote:
[color=blue]
>Ribbet4 wrote:[color=green]
>> What hitch is best for 700# hitch weight travel trailer. With a dual cam
>> anti sway do I have to drill holes in the trailer frame to mount the anti
>> sway?
>>
>>[/color]
>Best is a Hensley Arrow hitch or Pullrite hitch. Both cost a LOT.[/color]

The Hensley Arrow or Pullrite designs are really only needed when
the trailer size and/or weight is severely straining the towing limits
of the towing vehicle - which should lead you to getting a larger tow
vehicle or a smaller trailer rather than a fancy hitch to 'cure' the
problem. That, and people who have to back their trailers into really
restricted spots requiring severe turns.

The Hensley makes a rigid connection between the trailer and hitch
ball (side to side) and move the pivot point under the rear axle.
Works kinds of like a Gooseneck Hitch like you'd find on a farm
trailer, but in reverse tucked under the car. It takes up a lot of
ground clearance room under the car for the drawbar and pivot
hardware, and you need to leave all the pivot zone totally clear -
some cars require major exhaust system mods to get it to fit.

I wouldn't mess with a Hensley unless you REALLY need it.
[color=blue]
>Second best are either the Drawtite/Reese/HiddenHitch dual cam or
>the Equal-i-zer brand hitch.[/color]

These are variations of standardized torsion-bar load leveling
hitches, and they plug into standard square-tongue receivers on the
car. And the special hitch receivers that plug into the car end can
be easily exchanged between cars when you change vehicles, though they
may have to be modified for receiver height and/or mounting angle.

The sway control and/or load leveler torsion-bar coupling arms
either clamp or weld onto the sides of the trailer A-frame extension
that the coupler is welded to.
[color=blue]
>The original model of the dual cam does not require holes in the
>frame, but might require repositioning the battery or propane holder
>to allow for U-bolts over the frame.[/color]

(Gotta run - I think this makes sense - If I missed something in
proofreading I'll fix it later.)

--<< Bruce >>--

--
Bruce L. Bergman, Woodland Hills (Los Angeles) CA - Desktop
Electrician for Westend Electric - CA726700
5737 Kanan Rd. #359, Agoura CA 91301 (818) 889-9545
Spamtrapped address: Remove the python and the invalid, and use a net.

On Mon, 20 Feb 2006 12:13:53 -0800, Ken Shelton
<shelton@cablespeed.com> wrote:
[color=blue]
>Ribbet4 wrote:[color=green]
>> What hitch is best for 700# hitch weight travel trailer. With a dual cam
>> anti sway do I have to drill holes in the trailer frame to mount the anti
>> sway?
>>
>>[/color]
>Best is a Hensley Arrow hitch or Pullrite hitch. Both cost a LOT.[/color]

Oh, I forgot about the "Best" (sic) part of a PullRite or Hensley
design trailer hitch - If you had the spare tire on a winch mount
under the car behind the rear axle, you have to remove it and put it
somewhere else - a bracket inside or on the tailgate of a SUV, or in
the bed of a pickup. With the hitch mounted in the way the tire would
be trapped under there forever...

And if the fuel tank is there, when it comes time to drop the tank
to change the in-tank electric fuel pump you have to take the hitch
off first. This turns a half-day job into a two day job.

With a standard receiver hitch they can leave the spare tire carrier
fully functional.

--<< Bruce >>--
--
Bruce L. Bergman, Woodland Hills (Los Angeles) CA - Desktop
Electrician for Westend Electric - CA726700
5737 Kanan Rd. #359, Agoura CA 91301 (818) 889-9545
Spamtrapped address: Remove the python and the invalid, and use a net.

Bruce L. Bergman wrote:[color=blue]
> On Mon, 20 Feb 2006 12:13:53 -0800, Ken Shelton
> <shelton@cablespeed.com> wrote:
>
>[color=green]
>>Ribbet4 wrote:
>>[color=darkred]
>>>What hitch is best for 700# hitch weight travel trailer. With a dual cam
>>>anti sway do I have to drill holes in the trailer frame to mount the anti
>>>sway?
>>>
>>>[/color]
>>
>>Best is a Hensley Arrow hitch or Pullrite hitch. Both cost a LOT.[/color]
>
>
> Oh, I forgot about the "Best" (sic) part of a PullRite or Hensley
> design trailer hitch - If you had the spare tire on a winch mount
> under the car behind the rear axle, you have to remove it and put it
> somewhere else - a bracket inside or on the tailgate of a SUV, or in
> the bed of a pickup. With the hitch mounted in the way the tire would
> be trapped under there forever...
>
> And if the fuel tank is there, when it comes time to drop the tank
> to change the in-tank electric fuel pump you have to take the hitch
> off first. This turns a half-day job into a two day job.
>
> With a standard receiver hitch they can leave the spare tire carrier
> fully functional.
>
> --<< Bruce >>--[/color]
The Hensley Arrow hitch used a standard hitch receiver. It has a 2"
square drawbar that stuffs into the hitch receiver in the usual way.

Anybody with a 700# tongue weight IS at the max for a Tundra or
Sequoia and overloading a Tacoma.

There is no doubt that the Hensley Arrow and the Pullrite are the
best at controlling trailer sway. The "Equal-i-zer" brand hitch and
the dual-cam are second tier, but far safer than the usual friction
sway damping bar.
[url]http://www.equalizerhitch.com/[/url]
[url]http://www.draw-tite.com/products/products/tow_wd_swaycontrol.shtml[/url]
(Drawtite, Reese, and HiddenHitch are all the same company.)

You have confused the operation of the Pullrite with the operation
of the Hensley Arrow. The Pullrite operates as you describe the HA.
The Pullrite on a Tundra does not require moving the spare tire.
[url]http://www.pullrite.com/pullrite_works.htm[/url]
[url]http://www.hensleymfg.com/whatisthearrow.html[/url]

I tow a 5200# travel trailer with my Tundra and a Hensley Arrow
hitch. I previously towed that trailer with a conventional weight
distributing hitch and a friction sway damping bar. Towing with the
Hensley Arrow hitch is much safer and more relaxing for the driver.
There is never any sway even in gusting 30 mph side winds.


Ken