98 Tacoma , 4X4 3.4 V6 -- shield

Over the many years of having my old changed, I noticed they stopped taking
the lower front shield off the bottom of the truck to get at the oil filter.
I didn't think much of it until I went to change the filter myself. It turns
out either the bolts are missing, cross threaded or rusted. I broke one off
trying to get it loose. I don't see any way to get the shield off without
breaking the rest of the bolts. I do need to get the shield off as I see at
least one oil filter laying on the shield but can't get to it. So someone
along the way dropped it and let it go.

Anyway, I was wondering if once I get the shield off, it it's okay to run
without? I don't really do any off road stuff, mostly highway driving. I'm
sure I'll break off the rest of the bolts getting it off.

Joel



----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==----
[url]http://www.newsfeeds.com[/url] The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups
----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =----

Same thing happened to me. I went to one of those 10 minute oil change
places where you stay in the vehicle and the guy in the pit does the change
and then you just drive out. Anyway, I heard him clanging around for a good
5 minutes and then got out and asked what he was doing. He said (in broken
english) that he had to charge me more because he had to take off my skid
plate. I then kindly advised him to go through the driver side wheel well
flap to get to the oil filter on a 3.4 Tacoma. He finished up rather quickly
and I left. The next day I crawled underneath and of course I had a few skid
plate bolts missing and a few less-than finger tight. At the risk of letting
these minimum wage "technicians" touch my truck again, I just sucked it up
and went to Lowes and found an equivalent bolt to replace the 4 missing
ones. I believe the original head size is 12mm and the new ones I bought
were 13mm heads. Just take one of the original bolts to a hardware store and
find a nut that fits it nicely. Then, find a bolt that they sell that also
fits the nut nicely and buy however many you need. Last step is to do all
your own oil changes yourself from now on.



"Joel" <Joel@cyberbest.com> wrote in message
news:1141022014_7347@sp6iad.superfeed.net...[color=blue]
> Over the many years of having my old changed, I noticed they stopped
> taking the lower front shield off the bottom of the truck to get at the
> oil filter. I didn't think much of it until I went to change the filter
> myself. It turns out either the bolts are missing, cross threaded or
> rusted. I broke one off trying to get it loose. I don't see any way to
> get the shield off without breaking the rest of the bolts. I do need to
> get the shield off as I see at least one oil filter laying on the shield
> but can't get to it. So someone along the way dropped it and let it go.
>
> Anyway, I was wondering if once I get the shield off, it it's okay to run
> without? I don't really do any off road stuff, mostly highway driving.
> I'm sure I'll break off the rest of the bolts getting it off.
>
> Joel
>
>
> ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet
> News==----
> [url]http://www.newsfeeds.com[/url] The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+
> Newsgroups
> ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption
> =----[/color]

You found a filter on you skid plate? I found an adjustable oil filter
wrench! I guess the guys at The Oil Connection on 327 Texas St in Fairfield
CA and I are even.
BTW If you never go off road, you dont really need the skid plates.

Yeah, I wish it was going to be this easy. I can't seem to get the remaining
bolts off the plate as they are rusted solid. I know that will break off,
as a bunch are now. I'm hoping I can get enough off to be able to put enough
back to be able to keep the plate from rattling. But they are all rusted
really badly, I already busted one off. I was hoping either I can drill new
holes and tap new bolts, or just run without the shield?

Joel

"dissembler" <dissembler@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:yOxMf.15454$rL5.5894@newssvr27.news.prodigy.net...[color=blue]
> Same thing happened to me. I went to one of those 10 minute oil change
> places where you stay in the vehicle and the guy in the pit does the
> change and then you just drive out. Anyway, I heard him clanging around
> for a good 5 minutes and then got out and asked what he was doing. He said
> (in broken english) that he had to charge me more because he had to take
> off my skid plate. I then kindly advised him to go through the driver side
> wheel well flap to get to the oil filter on a 3.4 Tacoma. He finished up
> rather quickly and I left. The next day I crawled underneath and of course
> I had a few skid plate bolts missing and a few less-than finger tight. At
> the risk of letting these minimum wage "technicians" touch my truck again,
> I just sucked it up and went to Lowes and found an equivalent bolt to
> replace the 4 missing ones. I believe the original head size is 12mm and
> the new ones I bought were 13mm heads. Just take one of the original bolts
> to a hardware store and find a nut that fits it nicely. Then, find a bolt
> that they sell that also fits the nut nicely and buy however many you
> need. Last step is to do all your own oil changes yourself from now on.
>
>
>
> "Joel" <Joel@cyberbest.com> wrote in message
> news:1141022014_7347@sp6iad.superfeed.net...[color=green]
>> Over the many years of having my old changed, I noticed they stopped
>> taking the lower front shield off the bottom of the truck to get at the
>> oil filter. I didn't think much of it until I went to change the filter
>> myself. It turns out either the bolts are missing, cross threaded or
>> rusted. I broke one off trying to get it loose. I don't see any way to
>> get the shield off without breaking the rest of the bolts. I do need to
>> get the shield off as I see at least one oil filter laying on the shield
>> but can't get to it. So someone along the way dropped it and let it go.
>>
>> Anyway, I was wondering if once I get the shield off, it it's okay to run
>> without? I don't really do any off road stuff, mostly highway driving.
>> I'm sure I'll break off the rest of the bolts getting it off.
>>
>> Joel
>>
>>
>> ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet
>> News==----
>> [url]http://www.newsfeeds.com[/url] The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+
>> Newsgroups
>> ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption
>> =----[/color]
>
>
>[/color]



----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==----
[url]http://www.newsfeeds.com[/url] The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups
----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =----

I recently went through skid shield removal and bolt replacement. I
think the correct bolts for your truck are M8 x 1.25 x 20. I replaced
my stock bolts with JIS flanged-head bolts.

You can run without shields, but it's possible to remove the broken
bolts and replace the shield. Before you go any further, spray PB
Blaster penetrating oil on the bolts and let them soak for a day. If
the bolts break off, once the shields are off, you can drill through
the broken bolts (carefully) and remove them with an easy-out (a
left-hand-threaded bolt removing tool that you can buy at a hardware
or auto parts store). Take your time when you drill. Use sharp drill
bits and cutting oil. Start with a smallish pilot drill and keep the
drill centered in the broken bolt so you don't damage the threads.
Once through, drill with successively larger bits until you've
hollowed out the bolt and it's very thin. Then insert the easy-out
(use the biggest easy-out that you can insert and tap it in firmly
with a hammer) and use a crescent wrench to turn it counter clockwise
and unthread the bolt. After the bolts are out, chase the holes with
a well lubricated tap (from auto parts or hardware store) to renew the
threads.

Replace shield. Coat the new bolt threads with anti-sieze compound
so you can remove them easily next time. Henceforth change your own
oil so you can save money and do the job right.

James


On Mon, 27 Feb 2006 00:34:49 -0600, "Joel" <Joel@cyberbest.com> wrote:
[color=blue]
>Over the many years of having my old changed, I noticed they stopped taking
>the lower front shield off the bottom of the truck to get at the oil filter.
>I didn't think much of it until I went to change the filter myself. It turns
>out either the bolts are missing, cross threaded or rusted. I broke one off
>trying to get it loose. I don't see any way to get the shield off without
>breaking the rest of the bolts. I do need to get the shield off as I see at
>least one oil filter laying on the shield but can't get to it. So someone
>along the way dropped it and let it go.
>
>Anyway, I was wondering if once I get the shield off, it it's okay to run
>without? I don't really do any off road stuff, mostly highway driving. I'm
>sure I'll break off the rest of the bolts getting it off.
>
>Joel
>
>
>
>----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==----
>[url]http://www.newsfeeds.com[/url] The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups
>----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =----[/color]

On Mon, 27 Feb 2006 01:42:21 -0600, "Joel" <Joel@cyberbest.com> wrote:
[color=blue]
>Yeah, I wish it was going to be this easy. I can't seem to get the remaining
>bolts off the plate as they are rusted solid. I know that will break off,
>as a bunch are now. I'm hoping I can get enough off to be able to put enough
>back to be able to keep the plate from rattling. But they are all rusted
>really badly, I already busted one off. I was hoping either I can drill new
>holes and tap new bolts, or just run without the shield?[/color]

Spray the remaining bolts with "PB Blaster" or "Kroil" penetrating
oil, let it sit overnight, and see if that loosens the rusted ones up.

If it doesn't, you might need to get out "Ye Olde Hot Wrench" and
warm them up to a dull red and see if that'll loosen them up. (Heat
Them CAREFULLY! There are fuel lines, brake lines, electrical
harnesses and other things that melt or go up in big flames if they
get hot, so you don't just wave the torch around wildly.)

But if that does not work try a few more cycles of penetrating oil,
soak time, and heat - no matter how tempting I wouldn't immediately
cut the bolt heads off, because that adds to your removal problems.
Bad enough when they snap off.

I would leave the skid plates on, if for no other reason than it
controls airflow under the hood for maximum cooling effectiveness.
You might not plan to go off-roading and hit stumps and rocks - but a
concrete block or firewood log tossed in the street or falling off the
back of a truck can do the same type of damage. Just try to aim for
it off-center so the debris doesn't jam under the differentials.

Fresh bolts, nickel based anti-seize, and take them off every once
in a while.

Sounds like you live in the 'Rust Belt', you might want to go
through and clean/treat all the important bolts down there now, before
you develop small problems that turn huge because the bolts are rusted
tight...

--<< Bruce >>--

--
Bruce L. Bergman, Woodland Hills (Los Angeles) CA - Desktop
Electrician for Westend Electric - CA726700
5737 Kanan Rd. #359, Agoura CA 91301 (818) 889-9545
Spamtrapped address: Remove the python and the invalid, and use a net.

Thanks for all the help.. I'm going to give it a good soaking and see where
that leaves me.. I wish I could get at the other end of the bolts so the
penetrating fluid could do a better job. As I remember the nuts are captive
and so spraying on the bolt heads, when they are upside down don't really
allow much chance of the fluid seeping into the rusty end of the bolt.. But
it's worth a try.
I'll probably have to resort to the 'heat wrench' as that might work
better.. As I remember when I originally tried to get them off, the one
snapped off way to easy,. I'll have to be careful.
I certainly would rather keep the shield on the truck, as it does add
protection and like you said, probably affects the cooling capabilities.

Actually the truck spent the first 4 years of it's life in Chicago area, and
that's where it got rusted out. Luckily not much is rusted that bad. Now,
I'm living in Tennessee, and so it's a lot better. They build them a lot
better then days of old. The truck before this had 330k miles, but I had to
get rid of it because the body rusted out so bad I got tired of holding the
door up just to open and not fall off. But it ran like a top.. I loved that
old truck.. 22r engine..

Joel

"Bruce L. Bergman" <blPYTHONbergman@earthlink.invalid> wrote in message
news:bnl702t5gc5pp7qkit85e27ja2p1svadh6@4ax.com...[color=blue]
> On Mon, 27 Feb 2006 01:42:21 -0600, "Joel" <Joel@cyberbest.com> wrote:
>[color=green]
>>Yeah, I wish it was going to be this easy. I can't seem to get the
>>remaining
>>bolts off the plate as they are rusted solid. I know that will break off,
>>as a bunch are now. I'm hoping I can get enough off to be able to put
>>enough
>>back to be able to keep the plate from rattling. But they are all rusted
>>really badly, I already busted one off. I was hoping either I can drill
>>new
>>holes and tap new bolts, or just run without the shield?[/color]
>
> Spray the remaining bolts with "PB Blaster" or "Kroil" penetrating
> oil, let it sit overnight, and see if that loosens the rusted ones up.
>
> If it doesn't, you might need to get out "Ye Olde Hot Wrench" and
> warm them up to a dull red and see if that'll loosen them up. (Heat
> Them CAREFULLY! There are fuel lines, brake lines, electrical
> harnesses and other things that melt or go up in big flames if they
> get hot, so you don't just wave the torch around wildly.)
>
> But if that does not work try a few more cycles of penetrating oil,
> soak time, and heat - no matter how tempting I wouldn't immediately
> cut the bolt heads off, because that adds to your removal problems.
> Bad enough when they snap off.
>
> I would leave the skid plates on, if for no other reason than it
> controls airflow under the hood for maximum cooling effectiveness.
> You might not plan to go off-roading and hit stumps and rocks - but a
> concrete block or firewood log tossed in the street or falling off the
> back of a truck can do the same type of damage. Just try to aim for
> it off-center so the debris doesn't jam under the differentials.
>
> Fresh bolts, nickel based anti-seize, and take them off every once
> in a while.
>
> Sounds like you live in the 'Rust Belt', you might want to go
> through and clean/treat all the important bolts down there now, before
> you develop small problems that turn huge because the bolts are rusted
> tight...
>
> --<< Bruce >>--
>
> --
> Bruce L. Bergman, Woodland Hills (Los Angeles) CA - Desktop
> Electrician for Westend Electric - CA726700
> 5737 Kanan Rd. #359, Agoura CA 91301 (818) 889-9545
> Spamtrapped address: Remove the python and the invalid, and use a net.[/color]



----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==----
[url]http://www.newsfeeds.com[/url] The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups
----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =----