Oil and filter for Tundra

Currently I'm at 600 miles on my V8 Tundra and must think about which
oil to buy. I have used Casterol in all my vehicles, but this oil is
supposed to be for small engines. Which (non synthetic) engine oil
brands are supposed to be the best? Is Valvoline better than average?
I know it is best to stick to the same brand. TIA

On Tue, 07 Mar 2006 00:07:42 GMT, Phisherman <noone@nobody.com> wrote:
[color=blue]
>Currently I'm at 600 miles on my V8 Tundra and must think about which
>oil to buy. I have used Casterol in all my vehicles, but this oil is
>supposed to be for small engines. Which (non synthetic) engine oil
>brands are supposed to be the best? Is Valvoline better than average?
>I know it is best to stick to the same brand. TIA[/color]

I don't think there's anything "small engine" about Castrol oil. I
used nothing but Castrol in my 77 GMC Jimmy and it did fine for over
200,000 miles.

Skip

Phisherman wrote:[color=blue]
> Currently I'm at 600 miles on my V8 Tundra and must think about which
> oil to buy. I have used Casterol in all my vehicles, but this oil is
> supposed to be for small engines. Which (non synthetic) engine oil
> brands are supposed to be the best? Is Valvoline better than average?
> I know it is best to stick to the same brand. TIA[/color]
Castrol is very good, as are Chevron/Havoline, the ConocoPhillips
brands including 76 & Kendall, and Pennzoil. I'd do an oil and
filter change now, then every 5000 miles after that.

I use OEM Toyota/Denso filters. You also might consider Purolator
Pure One if you want a premium filter (as good as Mobil 1 filters
and cheaper), and WIX & NAPA-Gold, Baldwin & Hastings, and Purolator
Premium Plus for top quality ordinary filtration. These filters are
small, but completely adequate.


Ken

More important than the oil manufacturer is that you change it at the
recommended intervals or sooner. Personally, I use Castrol GTX in
everything I drive. If you live in a cold climate, I'd stick with
5w-30. If you live out West, then 10w-40. The manufacturer recommended
5w-30 is a national average, but this viscosity WILL NOT stand up to
warmer climates like Arizona or Nevada, nor in New York city stop & go
traffic. Pennzoil & Chevron are also great. With the filter, BE SURE to
buy one which has an anit-drain back valve built in to GREATLY EXTEND
the life of your engine!!!

I would not hesitate for one second to use Castrol in a V8 motor.

I'm not endorsing Castrol, but I use it in my cars and trucks. If you like
to use Castrol, then use it. It'll be fine in your V8.




"Phisherman" <noone@nobody.com> wrote in message
news:ifjp02dre3vvpgmfq8im63mnladnc841ak@4ax.com...[color=blue]
> Currently I'm at 600 miles on my V8 Tundra and must think about which
> oil to buy. I have used Casterol in all my vehicles, but this oil is
> supposed to be for small engines. Which (non synthetic) engine oil
> brands are supposed to be the best? Is Valvoline better than average?
> I know it is best to stick to the same brand. TIA[/color]

in article [email]ifjp02dre3vvpgmfq8im63mnladnc841ak@4ax.com[/email], Phisherman at
[email]noone@nobody.com[/email] wrote on 3/6/06 4:07 PM:
[color=blue]
> Currently I'm at 600 miles on my V8 Tundra and must think about which
> oil to buy. I have used Casterol in all my vehicles, but this oil is
> supposed to be for small engines. Which (non synthetic) engine oil
> brands are supposed to be the best? Is Valvoline better than average?
> I know it is best to stick to the same brand. TIA[/color]

I'm switching mine to Mobil One synthetic at the first oil change here in a
few weeks... It's not necessary per se but it is undeniably better oil than
dino oil.

-jeff

Phisherman wrote:[color=blue]
> Currently I'm at 600 miles on my V8 Tundra and must think about which
> oil to buy. I have used Casterol in all my vehicles, but this oil is
> supposed to be for small engines. Which (non synthetic) engine oil
> brands are supposed to be the best? Is Valvoline better than average?
> I know it is best to stick to the same brand. TIA[/color]

I would only add to the advice you've gotten so far is pick a brand and
stick with it. That's not to say you can never change a brand or type but
you shouldn't do it every oil change or every other change, just because
Brand X is on sale. Changing brands can cause sludge as the additive
packages are different and some may not mix well with other brands.
HTH, davidj92

In article <ifjp02dre3vvpgmfq8im63mnladnc841ak@4ax.com>,
Phisherman <noone@nobody.com> wrote:
[color=blue]
> Currently I'm at 600 miles on my V8 Tundra and must think about which
> oil to buy. I have used Casterol in all my vehicles, but this oil is
> supposed to be for small engines. Which (non synthetic) engine oil
> brands are supposed to be the best? Is Valvoline better than average?
> I know it is best to stick to the same brand. TIA[/color]

I've been using Castrol GTX in everything I drive since the mid 70's and
it's fine. Castrol was originally touted as engineered with small
engines in mind, but it's fine for all.

I've only changed it once thus far and used a Fram filter. If you do
too, you'll notice the difference in filter length. I called Fram and
they said size doesn't matter...the age old story - LOL!

I had a bit of a mess on my hands after the filter change because I did
not remove the stock skid plate. I'm due for another change this week
and will definitely remove it this time. Group members say it's a
pretty easy task - like 5 bolts.

Nate

--
*********************************************
Why is it all the sensors seeking intelligent
life are pointed away from earth?
*********************************************

Nate, I never take off the skid plate, try using a large zip lock bag
or really any large plastic bag. I turn the filter with the bag and
when it and the oil come out they both go into the bag. You may get a
little spill but not very much. Then I just zip it up and toss it.

Myself, I'm a fan of Quaker State, have used it for 30 years now.

Tdubya

On Tue, 14 Mar 2006 12:37:08 -0500, N Williamson <spudman27@aol.com>
wrote:
[color=blue]
>In article <ifjp02dre3vvpgmfq8im63mnladnc841ak@4ax.com>,
> Phisherman <noone@nobody.com> wrote:
>[color=green]
>> Currently I'm at 600 miles on my V8 Tundra and must think about which
>> oil to buy. I have used Casterol in all my vehicles, but this oil is
>> supposed to be for small engines. Which (non synthetic) engine oil
>> brands are supposed to be the best? Is Valvoline better than average?
>> I know it is best to stick to the same brand. TIA[/color]
>
>I've been using Castrol GTX in everything I drive since the mid 70's and
>it's fine. Castrol was originally touted as engineered with small
>engines in mind, but it's fine for all.
>
>I've only changed it once thus far and used a Fram filter. If you do
>too, you'll notice the difference in filter length. I called Fram and
>they said size doesn't matter...the age old story - LOL!
>
>I had a bit of a mess on my hands after the filter change because I did
>not remove the stock skid plate. I'm due for another change this week
>and will definitely remove it this time. Group members say it's a
>pretty easy task - like 5 bolts.
>
>Nate[/color]

In article <cq1g121vkg2dvq9e7d45igmdvvthsdvbba@4ax.com>,
Tdubya <tbone45@bellsouth.net> wrote:
[color=blue]
>
> Nate, I never take off the skid plate, try using a large zip lock bag
> or really any large plastic bag. I turn the filter with the bag and
> when it and the oil come out they both go into the bag. You may get a
> little spill but not very much. Then I just zip it up and toss it.
>
> Myself, I'm a fan of Quaker State, have used it for 30 years now.
>
> Tdubya[/color]

Thanks for the thought. Another had mentioned a similar method. My
spillage was mostly due to the residual after the filter was removed and
now I want to clean up the skid plate, etc. I might just give the bag a
go though!

I started with Quaker State and after buying a very used and abused 1962
Spitfire went to Castrol because of their small engine claim. Marketing
ploy no doubt, but they've been fine as was Quaker State before that.

Thanks.