1990 truck rear brakes

I have a 1990 Winnebago camper that is built on a 1 ton Toyota truck
chassis. I want to check/change the rear brakes. I removed the rear dual
wheels and then the six small (12mm) nuts on the exposed end of the axle.
Then I took off the lock washers and tapered inserts. The axle is still
solidly attached, so I thought that the differential end probably had a
circlip or similar arrangement like some American trucks. I got under the
vehicle to remove the rear cover to the rear-end. To my surprise there was
no rear cover. I saw how the rear end came apart from the front. This looked
like it would entail removing the drive shaft and then the entire cast front
of the rear-end. This looked like a huge job just to change the rear brake
shoes. HELP.....................................................

You should be able to get the brake drums off without disassembly of the
entire rear axle.





"edandceeney" <edandceeney@juno.com> wrote in message
news:e2der3$tjh$1@emma.aioe.org...[color=blue]
>I have a 1990 Winnebago camper that is built on a 1 ton Toyota truck
>chassis. I want to check/change the rear brakes. I removed the rear dual
>wheels and then the six small (12mm) nuts on the exposed end of the axle.
>Then I took off the lock washers and tapered inserts. The axle is still
>solidly attached, so I thought that the differential end probably had a
>circlip or similar arrangement like some American trucks. I got under the
>vehicle to remove the rear cover to the rear-end. To my surprise there was
>no rear cover. I saw how the rear end came apart from the front. This
>looked like it would entail removing the drive shaft and then the entire
>cast front of the rear-end. This looked like a huge job just to change the
>rear brake shoes. HELP.....................................................
>[/color]

Hi doesn't the drum pull off? There should be some threaded holes that you
screw bolts into and push off the drum these are metric thread too.
Joe



"edandceeney" <edandceeney@juno.com> wrote in message
news:e2der3$tjh$1@emma.aioe.org...[color=blue]
>I have a 1990 Winnebago camper that is built on a 1 ton Toyota truck
>chassis. I want to check/change the rear brakes. I removed the rear dual
>wheels and then the six small (12mm) nuts on the exposed end of the axle.
>Then I took off the lock washers and tapered inserts. The axle is still
>solidly attached, so I thought that the differential end probably had a
>circlip or similar arrangement like some American trucks. I got under the
>vehicle to remove the rear cover to the rear-end. To my surprise there was
>no rear cover. I saw how the rear end came apart from the front. This
>looked like it would entail removing the drive shaft and then the entire
>cast front of the rear-end. This looked like a huge job just to change the
>rear brake shoes. HELP.....................................................
>[/color]

It looks like the axle has to come out first. I think it just pulls out as
there are threaded holes for pulling that looks like someone has broken off.
I'll repair those and the give it a go. Thanks.
"Joe" <jodabospam@iprimus.com.au> wrote in message
news:444b0ba4_1@news.iprimus.com.au...[color=blue]
> Hi doesn't the drum pull off? There should be some threaded holes that you
> screw bolts into and push off the drum these are metric thread too.
> Joe
>
>
>
> "edandceeney" <edandceeney@juno.com> wrote in message
> news:e2der3$tjh$1@emma.aioe.org...[color=green]
>>I have a 1990 Winnebago camper that is built on a 1 ton Toyota truck
>>chassis. I want to check/change the rear brakes. I removed the rear dual
>>wheels and then the six small (12mm) nuts on the exposed end of the axle.
>>Then I took off the lock washers and tapered inserts. The axle is still
>>solidly attached, so I thought that the differential end probably had a
>>circlip or similar arrangement like some American trucks. I got under the
>>vehicle to remove the rear cover to the rear-end. To my surprise there was
>>no rear cover. I saw how the rear end came apart from the front. This
>>looked like it would entail removing the drive shaft and then the entire
>>cast front of the rear-end. This looked like a huge job just to change the
>>rear brake shoes.
>>HELP.....................................................
>>[/color]
>
>[/color]

edandceeney wrote:[color=blue]
> It looks like the axle has to come out first. I think it just pulls
> out as there are threaded holes for pulling that looks like someone
> has broken off. I'll repair those and the give it a go. Thanks.[/color]

I'm not positive on yours, on a lot of these type set-ups you have to hammer
on the center of the axle to get it to pop out. It takes at least a 2 Lb.
hammer and you have to be careful to not hit any of the studs. Check the
threads before you reinstall nuts as it's a bear to remove a broken stud if
it breaks flush with the hub face. You can chase the stud threads with a die
if in doubt or try running the nuts on by hand as a trial fit before
installing the axle to make sure they'll go down the stud far enough. They
do make specialty tools for removal but they are expensive, definately not
cost effective for a one-time repair. I suggest you find a brake supply
house near you and talk to them. You can probably get a lot of good advice
from them, you will want to look at the differential to see if there is an
identity tag or stampings before as this might help identify it. One of them
might even rent or loan you any specialty tools you might need.
One other tip, sometimes differential lube will drain out the hub when the
axles are removed. I've found you can jack one side a little higher than the
other so lube will stop weeping, clean hub & axle gasket surface good and
apply a new gasket. Many techs and suppliers will tell you to reuse the old
gasket but many times they will leak. I've even used a thin film of RTV on
both sides of a new gasket, if you do be sure to let it dry completey before
install as the gasket will squeeze out.
Usually the diff lube will be ok after but it's a good idea to check, this
is also a good time to change the diff lube as well. They make synthetic
gear lubes, make sure you use the right one and check to see if you have
positrac diff when cover is off as the lube is different, or needs an
additive, for these.
HTH, Dave

edandceeney wrote:[color=blue]
> I have a 1990 Winnebago camper that is built on a 1 ton Toyota truck
> chassis. I want to check/change the rear brakes. I removed the rear dual
> wheels and then the six small (12mm) nuts on the exposed end of the axle.
> Then I took off the lock washers and tapered inserts. The axle is still
> solidly attached, so I thought that the differential end probably had a
> circlip or similar arrangement like some American trucks. I got under the
> vehicle to remove the rear cover to the rear-end. To my surprise there was
> no rear cover. I saw how the rear end came apart from the front. This looked
> like it would entail removing the drive shaft and then the entire cast front
> of the rear-end. This looked like a huge job just to change the rear brake
> shoes. HELP.....................................................[/color]

I have the same problem ,same truck and a winn.could you please how you
resolved the brake drum coming off thanks