99 Tacoma 4x4 Front Brake Rotor Removal

I am not having much luck removing the rotors from the front end of my
99 4wd Tacoma. The Chilton's guide is worthless. It advises to remove
the hubs, but the parts shown are nothing like mine.
Can anyone please tell me how to get the rotors off this vehicle? I've
been told everything from "just pull them off", to "insert bolts in the
threadded holes in the rotor to force it off" (there are no threadded
holes in these rotors, and they won't just pull off). Any help would be
appreciated.

On your model it's simple.. They come off when you take ff the caliper. The
caliper is held on with two bolts. Remove them and hang the caliper out of
the way with some bailing wire. Then the rotors about fall off. They are
actually held on with the lug bolts but the caliper is clamped down on it.
You might need to back the caliper pistons off a bit with a c-clamp.

I just did a break job on my 98 and it should be the same. Actually the
hardest part I had was getting the stupid disk pad pins out as they were
rusted in. But the rotor's were easy.

Joe Loucka


"RoadHunter" <roadhunter@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1146403640.431074.242530@j73g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...[color=blue]
>I am not having much luck removing the rotors from the front end of my
> 99 4wd Tacoma. The Chilton's guide is worthless. It advises to remove
> the hubs, but the parts shown are nothing like mine.
> Can anyone please tell me how to get the rotors off this vehicle? I've
> been told everything from "just pull them off", to "insert bolts in the
> threadded holes in the rotor to force it off" (there are no threadded
> holes in these rotors, and they won't just pull off). Any help would be
> appreciated.
>[/color]



-------------
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Start prepping the bolts with lubricant or break-free to aid the job along.

--
Tony
95 Toyota Tacoma 2wd



"AG4QC" <Joel@cyberbest.com> wrote in message
news:1146416735.987313@hosting.ispresults.com...[color=blue]
> On your model it's simple.. They come off when you take ff the caliper.
> The caliper is held on with two bolts. Remove them and hang the caliper
> out of the way with some bailing wire. Then the rotors about fall off.
> They are actually held on with the lug bolts but the caliper is clamped
> down on it. You might need to back the caliper pistons off a bit with a
> c-clamp.
>
> I just did a break job on my 98 and it should be the same. Actually the
> hardest part I had was getting the stupid disk pad pins out as they were
> rusted in. But the rotor's were easy.
>
> Joe Loucka
>
>
> "RoadHunter" <roadhunter@gmail.com> wrote in message
> news:1146403640.431074.242530@j73g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...[color=green]
>>I am not having much luck removing the rotors from the front end of my
>> 99 4wd Tacoma. The Chilton's guide is worthless. It advises to remove
>> the hubs, but the parts shown are nothing like mine.
>> Can anyone please tell me how to get the rotors off this vehicle? I've
>> been told everything from "just pull them off", to "insert bolts in the
>> threadded holes in the rotor to force it off" (there are no threadded
>> holes in these rotors, and they won't just pull off). Any help would be
>> appreciated.
>>[/color]
>
>
>
> -------------
> Get FREE newsgroup access from [url]http://www.cheap56k.com[/url]
>[/color]

Thanks for the info, guys. It turns out the rotors do just about fall
off....when hit with a 16 pound sledgehammer from the back side. Once
I was positive they were not bolted on to anything, I had no choice but
to spray some penatrating lube on them, then wack away. Considering I
have 105K on the truck, and this is my first brake job, I can see how
they would be stubborn to remove.
The sledge also came in handy for breaking the caliper bolts loose. I
could not get a cheater piple long enough up under the fender well to
break those loose, so it took a socket wrench and the big hammer.
Brake job is done now, and I've saved a lot of money. Once the rotor
issue was resolved, replacing the pads was simpler than on any other
vehicle I've worked on. I just wish the Chilton's guide would have
been more specific about which models had free floating rotors, and
which required hub removal.
Thanks again to everyone who replied!