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Old 05-02-2006, 07:18 AM   #1 (permalink)
Razzle
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Dual Battery for Hilux

Can anyone direct me to a good source on adding a second battery to a
Hilux... Pro's / con's hints and tips...

Thanks
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Old 05-02-2006, 10:15 AM   #2 (permalink)
Doug Kanter
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Re: Dual Battery for Hilux

"Razzle" <ournet@dcsi.net.au> wrote in message
news:44573ff6$1@news.comindico.com.au...[color=blue]
> Can anyone direct me to a good source on adding a second battery to a
> Hilux... Pro's / con's hints and tips...
>
> Thanks[/color]

As far as the hardware needed for isolating one battery from another (which
you might want to do), you'll probably get some good ideas in rec.boats.
And, there might be some info here - I haven't looked past this page:
[url]http://www.uuhome.de/william.darden/[/url]


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Old 05-02-2006, 12:11 PM   #3 (permalink)
Bruce L. Bergman
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Re: Dual Battery for Hilux

On Tue, 02 May 2006 11:18:15 GMT, Razzle <ournet@dcsi.net.au> wrote:
[color=blue]
>Can anyone direct me to a good source on adding a second battery to a
>Hilux... Pro's / con's hints and tips...[/color]

As to the battery tray, go look in the junkyard or the parts
catalogs - most Diesel trucks have dual batteries, and you can use the
same tray and braces which will bolt right in.

Of course, they usually fill that convenient empty space in a
gasoline engine vehicle (at least on the USA spec models) with
emission control junk that will need to be moved.

Then you need a charging isolator - a diode isolator is the least
trouble, but takes a bit more work to install because you need to
relocate the alternator voltage sense lead. Any shop that works on
motorhomes or camping trailers will be familiar with them.

A simple solenoid isolator will work, but you need to check the
specs and make sure it's a continuous duty solenoid. A Ford starter
solenoid looks identical, but it'll go up in smoke if left on
constantly.

Hints and tips:

Most deep-cycle batteries are NOT maintenance free, no matter what
the label says. Then again, regular 'Maintenance Free' car batteries
still need to be checked and topped off with -distilled- water (not
tap water) once a year, but deep-cycles two or three times.

Deep-cycle batteries should be charged at a slightly lower float
voltage than a starting battery (by a quarter volt or so) which is why
mains powered chargers have a switch - but you can't adjust the car's
integrated voltage regulator, so the deep-cycle battery will slightly
overcharge and will boil off a bit more water when used in that duty.

You fill to where the water touches the bottom of the split-ring of
the filler hole. Roughly 1/2 inch (10mm) from the top of the neck, to
leave an air space.

You may have to cut through the battery top label and pry out the
flush filler caps with a screwdriver, but it needs to be done
occasionally - or the battery only lasts two years (and dies because
it ran dry and the plates sulfated) instead of three to five.

Standard admonitions apply about wearing chemical goggles, heavy
gloves and protective gear while working on wet batteries, as well as
a big stock of baking soda on hand [20 pounds/10 Kg minimum - it will
keep] for neutralizing acid spills and a good flowing water source
within easy reach for emergency flushing.

(The last time I worked on stationary batteries without city water
available, I hauled 10 5-gallon water bottles up there first, and
rigged them on a low wall where I could tip them over and rinse off in
the flow... If you get splashed with acid, time is your enemy.)

Battery acid can be nasty stuff - a hydrogen explosion inside one of
the cells won't kill you, but it will pop the top cover off the
battery and splash sulfuric acid around. And you only get two eyes
from the factory, no refunds, no replacements.

--<< Bruce >>--

--
Bruce L. Bergman, Woodland Hills (Los Angeles) CA - Desktop
Electrician for Westend Electric - CA726700
5737 Kanan Rd. #359, Agoura CA 91301 (818) 889-9545
Spamtrapped address: Remove the python and the invalid, and use a net.
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